Carolyn Tillie

How about a halibut crudo with yuzu, grapefruit, and olive oil? Or a yellowtail crudo with fennel, Meyer lemon, and pickled shallot? Oysters on the half-shell with mignonette? For those guests who are afraid of raw, you might consider some smoked albacore, the gravlax (you mentioned), and a shrimp cocktail?

I checked their website again - it is a pity they don't list their magnums, although I'm sure with a list like that, they must have some. I would suggest giving the restaurant a call and asking their sommelier for a list of their available magnums. With 10 people, it would be easy enough to finish a magnum of red with additional whites for starters.

I went to their website. As you indicated, it is an extensive wine list of over 6,900 wines. It IS a very impressive wine list and there are chances to taste some very rare wines (older Inglenooks, etc). Unfortunately, they don't list prices online... I guess the next question is price range. Seeing as you are flying there, I'm assuming you are willing to spend a little on wine without going overboard. The other question is, How many people are at the table? That can determine if you want a white as a starter (possibly with first courses) and several reds with the steaks. The obvious choice with steak is a Cabernet Sauvignon, although I am getting to enjoy Syrahs more and more. Generally, with steaks, I find Pinots to be too light. You could have great fun ordering several vintages of the same wine (Dunn Howell Mountain, for example -- which I can attest to being a great steak wine), or experimenting on entirely something new. Tough call, my friend... can't wait to hear what others think.

By all accounts, yes -- a tourist trap. My BF's family visited during Thanksgiving and decided to go there against my suggestion. It was later confirmed that service was horrendous, a hollandaise was served with a crust and was too thick, potatoes were undercooked, etc... Glad we didn't join them! Also, I had a friend visiting last weekend who reported a fabulous eggs benedict at The Monaco, where I've only gone for cocktails.

I was born and raised in Tustin and the Crab Cooker was always one of those occasional family treats when I was a kid (30+ years ago). It was a still a treat when I would visit occasionally half-a-dozen years ago -- sort of a time portal in the grand days of family dining where waiting a long time for a table is required but a great way to meet other people. Love their clam chowder and used to buy the smoked albacore as a take-home treat. Must have the potatoes with melted cheese and was one of the few cole slaws I could abide!

Concur on the cupcakes... simple pound cake perhaps?

Sazji, I feel guilty confessing that I rarely read any of the blogs -- however I met a famous Turkish chef (Musa Dagdeviren of Çiya restaurant in Istanbul) several years ago who completely turned my head when I tasted his food at a conference here in California. Now I'm almost obsessed with learning about Turkish cuisine and visiting in the near future (perhaps late next year). I'll be reading and re-reading your blog to learn more! Thanks so much for this lesson!

The signing of a very large contract was reason to celebrate earlier this week. Not wanting to go to the Ferry Plaza in a cocktail dress for Champagne, we instead headed to The Bubble Lounge. A 1995 Pol Roger Winston Churchill was paired with osetra caviar and blini and a dozen oysters on the half-shell. The exterior is extremely warm and inviting; thick, comfy red velveteen couches and chairs, tall, dark wood shelves showcasing the variety of Champagnes, and a more than gracious staff. They don't list their menu online, but it consists mainly of small plates with a few sandwiches which is perfect for the exceptionally wide variety of sparkling wine that is offered in both bottles and as tastes. A very respectful listing of cheeses can be plated with either "savory" or "sweet" accompaniments. For dessert, I chose a variety of three which was plated with a dark raisin walnut bread, fig jam, walnuts, and dried cranberries. This was enjoyed with a glass of Louis XIII for K and a glass of Iniskillin for me. An expensive, but perfect evening.

Having lived in L.A. for 18 years -- and now four years transplanted in NoCal -- Versailles' Cuban Roast Pork with black beans and rice and fried plantains is one of the top three things I really miss about LaLaLand. The others two are Zankou chicken and Shin-Sen-Gumi's lunch menu.

I ate at Straits earlier in the week and was shocked -- ordered a $23.00 Ginger Sea Bass that was served in a folded, square box. Once opened, I saw a relatively small piece of fish with the garnish of two pieces of shiitake, three lychee, and a few slivers of bell pepper and ginger. Rice had to be ordered extra ($2.00 or $3.00) and service was very, very slow. With a glass of wine, lunch for one came to $50.00. Today, however, I stopped in at Mr. Hana, downstairs. The Tuna Poke Salad at $10.99 was a great bargain -- white rice, chopped, seasoned tuna, sliced spicy cucumber, ginger, apples, shredded seaweed, a few avocado, and some arugula spears. Quite filling and very savory. They were offering five gyoza with any entree for $1.99 and a small bottle of chilled sake had me at one of the communal tables for lunch for under $20.00. The most annoying part (besides the crowds) was than when you enter the centre, the aroma of Beard Papa fills the nostrils and tempts enticingly -- annoying because the line is too long...

I have to concur with Russ and question whether Jackal's Ridge is a true botrytis-affected wine. I adore late-harvest Zins but those are usually just that; late-harvest (meaning the grapes are hung longer to 'raisin' and concentrate the sweetness). Also, many great late-harvest Zins are fortified with neutral spirits. An occasional exception are ones like Mayo's where the fortifying spirit was an alembic from the now-defunct Remy Martin production in the Carneros appellation. Here is an article I wrote when I was writing for Gang of Pour that explains a bit more about botrytis and the Napa underground-god of such things...

John -- here is my speculation... I believe that much of the American celebration of "Christmas" has been bastardized from the Victorian ideal (presents, Santa Clause, ostentacious decorations, etc.) However, for the Victorian, Christmas would literally START on Christmas Eve and last for twelve days; i.e., The Twelve Days of Christmas. Americans have stretched the holiday, having it begin immediately after the Thanksgiving holiday, practically a month before. Since it has become a far more commercial holiday in the states, having last for those four and five weeks is more than sufficient. Since Europe doesn't have the Christmas onset with a giant turkey meal at the end of the November, they continue the classic tradition of starting the holiday celebration later in the December month and maintaining the Epiphany celebration. As a matter of interest, I did have a number of friends who maintained the Epiphany celebration with a Twelfth Night party which was considered quite fun and unusual.

No. Not even close. ← Concur.

I'm a fan of Quady's Essencia orange muscat -- for the price, it is a great after-dinner wine!

There is also a Cordon Bleu in Los Angeles (technically, Pasadena). Our own Chef Farid teaches there and I'm surprised he hasn't piped in yet to this discussion!

I follow RLB's suggestion of pressing crushed molasses cookies and toasted pecans in the bottom of the pie shell -- pre-baked, it is perfectly crispy.

For Thanksgiving, I made a generic stock with venison, quail, pheasant, duck, and squab bones and simmered for 24 hours. It gave me about 12 quarts of good stock. After a good straining, I sauteed up another round of mirepoix and simmered for an additional 12 hours and ended up with about 8 quarts of concentrated stock. I then consommed those 8 quarts and ended up with a little over half-a-gallon of intensely rich, concentrated game consomme. Stunning... So, to Forest, just boiling it down doesn't necessarily make the flavor more concetrated, while re-simmering with additional mirepoix seems to help.

Here, here. Would only cook from the '75 edition...

Sure - just make sure it has come to a roiling boil for at three minutes. Technically, a stock could last indefinitely if brought to a boil ever few days.

i was just by ladera on tuesday and bought a couple btls of the 03 napa... very tasty & a great price! what a beautiful place! ← Yeah, I really miss that place... I never even minded the commute from Napa and it was a truly great job. It also spoiled my palate for "valley floor" cabs as I am now quite a snob for mountain fruit. Glad you got to experience it and hopefully, met Anne who is their shining diamond up there!

I'm trying to find the exact reference (maybe in McGee?) that states that the parasites that lives in turkeys and chickens are non-existence in game birds so the in-bred fear that all foul has to be cooked to death is a misnomer. Love a good, rare duck breast, that's for sure!

Jscarbor, I used to work at Ladera vineyards on Howell Mountain -- their owners personally give the tours and the tasting involve barrel samples in the caves. It is really a one-on-one situation that does not involve the classic "tasting room" hard sell with t-shirts and tschotskies and whatnot. Just great wine in an historical, gravity-method winery with a stunning view and fabulous wine. From there, you could head down into St. Helena and hang out at the bar at the Martini House, where many other local winemakers spend their evenings. It will also provide you a great meal. From there, you are close to the Silverado Trail which is a bounty of exquisite "off-the-beat-and-track" wineries like Harrison, August Briggs, and more. The downside of wanting to hang-out with winemakers during this time of the season is that the bulk of their work is done and this is vacation time for most of them. Once the wine is in the barrels, winter is the one time of year they can decamp the valley for warmer climates (why many of them head to South Africa for two-and three-month internships). Hope that helps.

I have completely agree -- when I purchased them (some 20 years ago), I actually had to research them and pay to have them expensively frames. Now they are everywhere I'm devastated until I can afford a Becker. The problem is that I have been searching for some time for some "decent" still lifes (originals) with which to deck my walls, but have been entirely spoiled by having seen the Beckers in real life. It is very hard to describe how utterly luminous they are and if anyone is near a gallery where they are showing, I can't recommend enough a personal viewing. There is one he did with cherries in a silver goblet that I am seriously considering purchasing -- depending on how my year-end stock portfolio ends up looking... These posters of mine are on their way out, but not until I have "real art" to replace them.

Personally, once or twice a year I have a boxes of goodies sent from all over the world; specially flavored chips and obscure cookies from England, dende oil from South Africa, recodo paste from Belize, piri piri sauce from Brazil, and guandu from Panama.

and I am not likely to find this treasure here in Atlanta ... ← Actually quite similar is is this Late Harvest Riesling vinegar which is remarkably similar to the Minus 8. There is a product here in California made by Katz & Company which is a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc vinegarwhich will also fit the bill.