Carolyn Tillie

Here is my attempt at my first homemade okonomiyaki... help me critique: I made the batter with 100 grams of mix, 100 ccs of water, and 2 eggs. I think I may have made too much batter and half that amount would have been sufficient. It was a REALLY thick patty of batter. I made a sauce of 4 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons katchup, 2 tablespoons mirin, 2 tablespoons Worcester sauce, and 2 teaspoons sugar, brought to a boil with a little pepper added. I poured it in the griddle pan and when it started bubbling (like pancakes do), I added shredded Napa cabbage, three sliced green onions, about a dozen grilled shrimp, and enoki mushrooms. I let it continue cooking and made the attempt to flip it over and the cabbage cooked a bit. While it was on its flip-side, I brushed the cake with some of my sauce. I went ahead and flipped it back over and covered it, worried that the cake wouldn't cook through. When I plated it, I added a bit of shredded nori, black sesame seeds, pickled ginger, a bit of mayonnaise (maybe a tablespoon or two's worth), more of my sauce, and bonito flakes. (Sorry I don't know all the Japanese names). It tasted really good, but I think the cake park was too thick -- two of us couldn't eat half of it! So, what I'm wondering is; a) should I have used less battter, b) should I have slipped the cake over to grill the otherside BEFORE I added the other ingredients, or is it supposed to be stuck in the batter? It was great fun and I'm looking forward to making more, so tell what sort of other ingredients I can add that make up your favorite okonomiyaki!

West Wing is riddled with some amazing obscure food references and elaborate food scenes. One of the Thanksgiving episodes had President Bartlett obsessed with his turkey, phoning the Butterball hotline. Another has him dining with Leo and waxing rhapsodic over the construction of the meal. C.J. Cregg is obsessed with goldfish. And a gift of elk meat becomes an eBay problem. Barlett is a great foodie president and I've been sorely tempted to write the "Food of the West Wing" book...

Summer 2003, Volume 3, Number 3 Cover Georgia Peach by John Dunaphy, 1860. Oil on canvas. From the Miller Family Collection. Once again, I always try to do a web search of the artists and provide links to other works so that you all get an idea of the images that get presented. In this case, nothing existed except references to the Miller Family Collection. The image (as I shall describe it), is a portrait of a young, black girl. In her left arm, she clutches a bag of peaches and in her right hand, held close to her mouth, an obviously just-bitten-into peach. From the Editor Possessing the Past by Darra Goldstein “In desperate times people the world over sell their family keepsakes, and the internet is just the latest flea market.” How a student’s purchase of an antique Russian samovar causes the editor to reflect over the intrinsic and sentimental value of keepsakes. Contributors – Mini-biographies. Borborygmus - Rumblings from the World of Food Letters to the Editor Mastic and the Columbus Voyage by Andrew Dalby – responding to Alice Arndt’s Spring 2002 review of his book, Dangerous Tastes, explaining a previously-unsourced speculation. Arctic and Antarctic Survival by Nils Harald Moe, Tromsø, Norway – Commenting on several Winter, 2003 articles The Skinny on Fat and Train Oil and Snotters and commends his own book, Vi tar ett år til (We’ll Stay Another Year). Cartoon by Donnelly – A couple seated at a table at an outdoor bistro. Woman says to Man, “You’re a nice California Burgundy, Harold, but I realized I need a cheap white wine.” Why Do Ethnic Eateries Have Terrible Service? by Krishnedu Ray. Title of article tells all about subject matter… Our Daily Bread by Sharon Hudgins An account of the German Bread Museum (Deutsches Brotmuseum) located in Ulm. With a half-page, full-color, full-size model of a German bakery around 1900, at the Deutsches Brotmuseum in Ulm. Food Zines by Anna M. Shih A comment of those publications that survive sans advertisements. Orts and Scantlings ”Crowdie Mowdie” by Mark Morton “Crowdie mowdie” was formerly the name of a kind of porridge. The article proceeds to explain how a few words of endearment stem from our vast culinary history. With a half-page, vertical sepia-toned photograph of a man and woman embracing, circa 1900 (digester’s guess). Feast for the Eye The Wedding Feast – Frans Snydes’s “Larder with a Maidservant” by Jill Meredith Snyders is well known for elaborate, large still life paintings in the Flemish style. The article is well-researched and provides additional information about the artist, including the fact that his parents were restaurateurs and wine merchants. With a half-page, full-color reproduction of Frans Snyders’ ”Larder with a Maidservant,” ca. 1630-40. Poetry Odds by Cassandra Cleghorn Figs will grow farther north than you’d think. Dried blood, fish scraps, cottonseed meal, Lime, peat, and a moist soil dense enough To block the eel worms. Another fifteen lines after these four… Origins The Vinegar of Spilamberto by Doris Muscatine How a small town has been engaged in the production of balsamic vinegar “for as long as anyone can remember…” Did it start there? Oddly, while the article references historical letters, the article is surprisingly lacking in actual footnotes. With a one-third page, full-color illustration from a medieval herbal showing the cooking of must as it is done today in the area that produces balsamic vinegar. Identities Falafel: A National Icon by Yael Raviv Tying falafel to Jewish nationalism and its prevalence in Israeli society. The article contains the lyrics to a 1949 song by Y. Zuckerman entitled Falafel plus a one-quarter page, black and white cartoon of a broken-down, street vendor with the caption, “A license? Don’t be silly, who would give me such a thing?” The article is well-annotated and for me, rather surprising (I had never considered falafel a particularly Jewish dish.) Also, a half-page, full-color photograph of an advertisement of a falafel sandwich with an Israeli flag protruding with the caption, “Falafel – Israel’s national snack.” Memoir Cooking Lessons by Constance Hardesty Sentimental account of a family’s eating habits. Investigations Postrevolutionary Chowhounds – Food, Globalization, and the Italian Left by Fabio Parasecoli How food has become an important political and cultural agenda for opposition movements using Italy as its case study. Nine page article, well annotated. With a half-page, full-color photograph of Stefano Bonilli and a half-page, full-color photograph of the Salone del Gusto in Turin. Writing Out of the Kitchen – Carême and the Invention of French Cuisine by Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson Well-researched and annotated, in depth article about the High Priest of haute cuisine. A delight to read. With a full-page reproduction of a engraving portrait of Carême (circa 1845), a full-page engraving of The Old and the Modern Chef, and a one-third page reproduction of an engraving of a Carême drawing of Cascade de Rome Antique, a pastry creation. Art (small) Appetites by Stephanie Brody-Lederman This artist is known for book arts and paintings. Stephanie Brody-Lederman Website Two, full-page reproductions of “Edgey (Orange),” 1995 and ”Fraises and Créme Fraîche”, 2001. Culinary Exchange Thai Egg-Based Sweets – The Legend of Thao Thong Keap-Ma by Su-mei Yu Very beautifully written article of a culturally-important dish, complete with historical precedent. With a full-page, full-color close-up photograph of Thong yib, ”Pick Up Gold,” in porcelain cups. Also a half-page, full-color photograph of a woman with a large bowl of eggs (dozens of them, really) with the caption, “Washing eggs for the sweets." Libations The Return of Zin by Jon Fasman How the ubiquitous zinfandel grape continues to go through resurgent popularity with an investigation into the exploration into the oldest vines in North America. With a quarter-page, full-color photograph of James Wolpert inspecting zinfandel vines in the Heritage Vineyard. Health Evacuation Day, or a Foodie is Bummed Out by Merry White The trials and tribulations of experiencing a colonoscopy. Written in a rather humorous fashion that makes the subject matter slightly more accessible. With a half-page, vertical engraving of ”The colon. From Andreas Vesalius, ‘De Humani Corporis Fabrica’ (1543). Reprinted from The Bremer Press, Munich, 1934. Essay Breakfast by Tim Morris An introspection in one man’s morning routine. With a half-page, full-color photograph of a fried egg, sunny-side up. Photographs Meat by Monika Malewska This artist using the still-life genre in a rather disturbing fashion. Two photographs are reproduced, one is one-third page in size entitled ”Still Life with a Tongueon Pink Background. which shows a large cow’s tongue on a silver platter with a flower, a candle, an apple, and some butterflies around the pink satin background. The other, entitled ”Still Life with Cow’s Head #5 is a bit more graphic. The background is draped, colorful brocade and there is a vase of flowers, but the centerpiece of the photograph is a de-skinned, eye-protruding cow’s head. The artist’s comment is thus, “I am fascinated by the ironic and playful contrast between the typically repulsive subject of raw meat and traditionally beautiful elements such as flowers and colorful fruits. In combining the familiar with the shocking, I hope to bridge humor and horror and to create a realm of imagery, fantastic, mystifying objects that blur reality and dream.” Shopping Oyster Policy by Roy Owen An account of New York’s Upper West Side institution, Citarella. With a half-page black-and-white photograph that spans two pages, landscape-style. Uprisings Sourdough Culture by Lynn Harris The passing of a venerable Air Force colonel begets an organization entitled “The 1847 Oregon Trail Sourdough Starter Preservation Society, otherwise known as Carl’s Friends” who maintain and share a bread starter. With a half-page, vertical, full-color photograph of Colonel Carl T. Griffith. Travel Rock ‘n’ Roll Cooking by Duncan Holmes Dining aboard Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer, a railway adventure from Vancouver, British Columbia to Banff and on to Calgary, Alberta or Jasper. Sounds like fun. Includes a recipe for Special-Order Muffins. With a full-page, full-color photograph of GoldLeaf Service on the Rocky Mountaineer, and a half-page, full-color photograph of the Rocky Mountaineer’s galley. Working on the Food Chain Growing Food in Suburbia by Judith Hausman How a New York City socialite is establishing a sustainable farm. Chef’s Page Life’s Pleasure – Arrows Restaurant, Ogunquit, Maine by Clark Frasier How Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier left San Francisco to plant a garden in Maine – literally, as one of the first restaurants in the east to grow the majority of their own ingredients. With a half-page, full-color photograph of the edible garden at Arrows Restaurant. Review Essay GM Foods – “Miracle or Menace?” by Lois Banta A review of the book Dinner at the New Gene Café: How Genetic Engineering Is Changing What We Eat, How We Live, and the Global Politics of Food by Bill Lambrecht. With a half-page, full-color photograph of ”Centro International de la Papa (CIP).” World potato germplasm collection. The Bookshelf Books in Review: The Immortal Dinner: A Famous Evening of Genius & Laughter in Literary London, 1817 by Penelope Hughes-Hallett Nashim: A Journal of Jewish Women’s Studies and Gender Issues 5 (Fall, 2002) – Special Issue on “Gender, Food, and Survival” edited by Norma Baumel Joseph Milk of Almonds: Italian American Women Writers on Food and Culture edited by Louise DeSalvo and Edvige Giunta The Sign of the Burger: McDonald's and the Culture of Power by Joe L. Kincheloe Larding the Lean Earth: Soil and Society in Nineteenth-Century America by Steven Stoll Fatal Harvest: The Tragedy of Industrial Agriculture and The Fatal Harvest Reader: The Tragedy of Industrial Agriculture edited by Andrew Kimbrell Salt: White Gold of the Ancient Maya by Heather McKillop Consuming Passions and Patterns of Consumption edited by Preston Miracle and Nicky Milner Peanuts: The Illustrious History of the Goober Pea by Andrew F. Smith Bookends Additional book reviews of… All About Ices, Jellies, and Creams by Henry G. Harris and S.P. Borella The Wines of Argentina, Chile and Latin America by Christopher Fielden Discovering Washington Wines: An Introduction to One of the Most Exciting Premium Wine Regions by Tom Parker Lagniappe Thrill Food by John Markus How a Beta Man tackles a deep fried Twinkie. With a quarter-page set of three photographs: Reactionary shots – very funny. Edited to fix issue date...

I'm considered a philistine... my quac has sour cream in it. Mash avocado, squeeze a lime, sprinkle the salt, tablespoon or two of sour cream and tablespoon or two of salsa.

The two are't mutally inclusive, trust me. Can't stand Mr. Pitt, love cornichons. What don't you like about cornichons in combo with terrines? Are your objections acidity based? Texture? Do you have a problem with pickles in general? If you're going to do full disclosure, we need details. regards, trillium So funny, Trillum - you read my mind. i.e. Agree on the Brad Pitt thing AND the need for full disclosure! (Now pictures of Russell Crowe Knitting is another thing altogether....)

This is very, very cool - color me jealous. I wish I lived a bit closer to Cruz and could join in! Keep up the reporting!

Oh, do try! It is great fun. I've got some venison in the freezer and I think this is where I'll start mine. I've done them rabbit, duck, and various pork products as well. As far as not liking cornichons, it is sort of a necessary thing with terrines - you plop a bit of terrine in the mouth and immediately follow it with a bite of cornichon. Another bite of terrine and then a splash of wine. Maybe a little salad or cheese inbetween, maybe not. BTW, the book I'm especially fond is Pâtés and Terrines by Frederick W. Ehlert, Edouard Longue, Michael Raffael, and Frank Wesel by Hurst books. It is a big, flat almost coffeetable-style book that covers every aspect of this delightful art.

I just finished a fresh Bartlett Pair and some Lamb's Chopper cheese... yum.

Balmagowry, in case no one has told you lately, we are awfully glad to have you around... This has proven to be more of the more interesting threads of late. Trillum, I've been a devoted terrine-maker for years, and your pictures have me inspired to hunt down some caul and dig out my molds - it has been far too long since I've constructed a good terrine. I just won't have the advtantage of homemade cornichons for several months...

Ah, than it all makes sense, now... I suppose the Dali one is so stunning because along with pictures of Maxim's and its service, there is his artwork. Then there is Anne Willan's From My Chateau Kitchen. Technically not a restaurant, but I think it does what a good coffeetable/cookbook needs to do - it introduces you with wonderfully lush pictures to a place you wish you were and to food you wish to try. Let's face it, that is what a restaurant would want in production of a coffeetable-style cookbook, no? You want to be drawn into the establishment even though you might be on the otherside of the world. You want to eat there and share in its wonderment.

Okay, you spend $200 an ounce on European white truffles and whatever they are charging for the North Carolina truffles and tell us! We need someone in the field to investigate. But, I'll put $100 down on the surmisability that the European truffles will be better.

Curious - why specifically Restaurant cookbooks? Slighty restaurant-specific (Maxims) would be the Dali Cookbook

They shouldn't go into the ground until evening temps are above 55 - 60 F. For us, that means we have months and months before they need to be planted. So you might have plenty of time. If you have trouble finding the seeds or starts (I could find both) I'd be happy to mail you some of last year's seeds. Just PM me. edit to add: the recipe I ended up using is closest to the one in french, not the first two in that thread. regards, trillium I think we are there now... it has been in the 80s here NoCal) for the past three weeks.

Okay, I'll say right now that I've never tasted them. But I have tasted Oregon truffles and Himalayan truffles. Truth be told, NOTHING thus far compares with European truffles - so I doubt the ones from North Carolina will either...

Well I am coming late to my planting but now I'm slightly inspired (especially since you've given me a recipe!). Now I have to see if I can find 'em round here to get into the ground! Thanks!

French Toast! My favorite for semi-stale bread...

It DID look beautiful as I am huge fan of terrines... And, yep, I'd suggest weighting it immediately upon removal from oven. While hot, it really compresses the juices in and the fat in it will help it all congeal. I am guessing that by waiting for it to cool, it had settled as much as it was going to. Don't you love it, though? I am, by the way, terribly jealous of your homemade cornichons! It just makes the dish, doesn't it???

When it came out of the oven, did you weigh it down at all? That is the only additional thing I can recommend (although the brandy is a good idea, but I don't think it would make much difference in the consistency). On my terrines, as soon as they come out of the oven, I weigh them down with foil-wrapped bricks the entire time they are setting in the fridge. Just a thought...

I pull out a Reidel, splash in some barrel wine, and toast Claus. Cheers.

Now that I live in NoCal, here are some of the stupid, touristy things I want to do: - Hearst Castle - Monterey Aquarium - Japanese Tea Garden - All the Museums (I've done the Asian recently, but not any of the fine art museums in over a dozen years) - A day in Marin - Tomales Bay, etc... (is Point Reyes up there? I'm not sure yet) - A balloon ride over the wine country - One of those Harbor cruises in a tall ship or clipper ship There is nothing like being a tourist in one's own town. When I lived in SoCal and had visiting guests, I was always a bit surprised by how much I enjoyed doing things like walking around and looking at the Hollywood stuff...

Kinda... Extraordinary Desserts in on 5th, about halfway between downtown and Hillcrest, about a block away from Balboa Park (to the west). Lovely patio and the cakes are always plated with a sauce. Rivals Sweet Lady Jane's in L.A. (IMHO). Didn't know about the Encinitas place... and I was there last weekend!

Thank you kindly! Yes, I went off and checked it on Snopes, too, and found substantially the same story. Curiously, though, there's nothing in either of these stories that disputes the association of the cake with the Waldorf - the only point debunked is the part about the sale of the recipe. Plot thickens! Ah, the story surfaces again... I, too, was led to believe it was a $10,000 Red Waldorf Cake, but juicier still, when I was married, I was told it was my husband's Great Aunt Beatrice who asked for the recipe and paid $10,000 for the recipe. Probably why I divorced out of the family, these people SWORE it really happened to Aunt Beatrice!!! (I asked to see the cancelled check!)

I had my first Okonomiyaki in a restaurant in Gardena, CA about five years ago. Now that I am up here in Napa, there is none to be found. Desperation set in and I have acquired a mix to make my own plus a bag of the bonito flakes and the pickled ginger. From what I can tell on the mix, I use 100 grams of mix to 100 cc's of water and 1 egg. Grill it like a pancake while adding in other ingredients? I need help on the rest of it! Torakris, your recipe link doesn't work any more!!! I'm going to need guidance on the sauces. Can I create them? I'm reading here about shredded cabbage, bacon, shrimp, mushroom, pork... and I'm getting overwhelmed.

Part of me really misses that town - until I come down and realize how bad the traffic has become! Now that you live there, you must also hunt down Ichicban. There is one in P.B. but I used to eat at the one on University in Hillcrest. To this day, it remains one of the best whole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurants. During the stormy months, I survived on their Stamina Bowls which was a huge bowl of Udon with lots of other nifty bits added in. And let me know what you think of Extraordinary Desserts! Walk through Balboa Park (geez, I got married there over 20 years ago!) It IS a beautiful town...

I had my first Epoisse last week. A freakin revelation! Thanks to eGullet for recommending it! I need to try this. But first I need to know how to pronounce it. Help? eh-PWOSSS Eat it with a spoon. Better, with your fingers. Better than your fingers are someone else's fingers!