David Ross

Excellent question doc. I didn't have the opportunity to speak to Chef Payard about the source of the Sea Bass. In the years prior to Chilean Sea Bass becoming an overfished species, I was able to regularly buy it at home. I think I developed a fairly good taste memory of it-and the flavor of true Chilean Sea Bass is of course quite distinct-silky yet firm in texture and a very rich flavor-almost like a very delicate, very rich halibut. Without asking the Chef, I can't say for sure if in fact he served Chilean Sea Bass-the soy glaze was a very strong flavor and it could have masked a different species of Bass that was billed as coming from Chile. It's certainly a question worth pursuing. I'll see what I can find out. Today I'm attending a panel discussion that includes Chef Rick Moonen-an advocate of sustainable fisheries and harvesting seafood in a responsible manner. I'll try to take the opportunity to ask him some questions on the Chilean Sea Bass issue.

The formal Uncork’d events got underway on Thursday night with the “Master Series Dinners” at Caesar’s Palace. The Master Series Dinners give a small, exclusive group of people the opportunity to privately dine and meet some of the most recognizable Chefs of the day including Bobby Flay, Cat Cora and Guy Savoy. I certainly understand what an amazing opportunity it might be for someone to be a guest at a private dinner hosted by their favorite Food Network Star. But I took a turn away from the more popular celebrity chefs on the program and booked the dinner at Payard Patisserie and Bistro hosted by Chef Francois Payard and Alan Richman. My tastes for French cuisine and my ambitions for discovering how French Chefs create beautifully clean, fresh, pure flavors are what drove me to Payard. And of course, dining with Alan is always a celebration of food, wine and conversation. (As most of you know by now, Alan just won two more James Beard Journalism Awards earlier this week. He now has so many of the medals he’s lost count). Francois Payard is a third-generation Chef. He is a very humble, unassuming, joyful man-and without a look into his resume you would never know that Francois is quite simply one of the top Pastry Chefs in the world. He has worked in the kitchens of Tour d’Argent and Lucas Carton in Paris, and both Le Bernardin and Daniel in New York. Payard is a tiny little restaurant seating no more than 30 people for breakfast only. The kitchen is just as small as the dining room-but dishes with large flavors come out of this small kitchen. Alan’s introduction to dinner set the stage-“You are in for a unique dinner-one of the world’s best pastry chefs is going to cook you lamb chops.” As you will see in the following photographs, the Chefs and staff were more than up to the challenge of serving a special dinner. We were greeted with an Amuse Bouche of Foie Gras Terrine with Cranberry and Green Apple Chutney served with flutes of Veuve Cliquot Rose Champagne. The table settings included a set of Payard stationary and a box of chocolates- Mini-baguettes fresh from the Payard bakery served with properly softened, salted butter- Chef’s special offering: Foie Gras Terrine, Brioche, Onion Chutney and Red Pepper Coulis, served with more of the Veuve Cliquot Rose- This was a more generous serving of the foie gras we had been treated to as we entered the dining room. I preferred the sweet-tart Cranberry and Green Apple Chutney served with the first foie gras dish because the fruit perfectly accented the flavors of the terrine. First Course: Sea Scallop Ceviche with Grapefruit Gelee, Cucumber, Radish and Micro Greens, served with Nickel and Nickel Chardonnay, 2006 Russian River Valley, (CA), Searby Vineyard- This was a very delicate version of a ceviche. The scallop was sliced thin to soften the texture of the meat and the grapefruit, typically a strong citrus flavor, was done with finesse so as not to overpower the sweetness of the scallop. Fish Course: Chilean Sea Bass with Baby Bok Choy and Oakwood Shiitake, Soy-Honey Balsamic Glaze, served with Nickel and Nickel Chardonnay, 2005 Russian River Valley, (CA), Medina Vineyard- Meat Course: Pistachio Crusted Baby Lamb Chop with Green Asparagus and Creamy Polenta, Oregano-Lamb Jus, served with Nickel and Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Oakville- The lamb jus was poured tableside. I am not a fan of “crusting” lamb and this dish did nothing to change my mind on the technique. The crust was composed more of panko crumbs than pistachio, and the result was merely a layer of breading that interfered with the delicious, tender baby chop that lay beneath. In my mind, the actual star of this dish was quite a surprise given the fact it is early May. The tomato-zuchinni “tart”, really just layers of vegetables on top of a thin crouton, had the depth of flavor that you expect would come from vegetables out of your garden during the heat of mid-July. Pre-dessert: Hot and Cold Pina Colada- As you can see, this is certainly not the same sort of Pina Colada one sees slugged up and down the strip in plastic guzzlers. No, this is the refined version of a Pina Colada. The top layer was made of cool coconut foam, the “hot” layer underneath was a warm, syrupy base of mango and pineapple juice. Laying in the bottom of the glass was a bed of candied pineapple cooked with vanilla. Dessert: Warm Chocolate Toffee Cake with Marshmallows, Oranges, Crème Fraiche and Brown Sugar Rum Sauce served with Far Niente, Dolce 2005- Leave it to the French to trump the British over one of their classic desserts-Sticky Toffee Pudding. I got worried when I saw “Brown Sugar Rum Sauce” on the menu as I feared, (as only an American home cook would), that the brown sugar would be grainy and overly sweet. Of course Chef Payard’s sauce was silky and light and not the heavy, down-trodden sauce I spoon over my pudding. I hope you’ll agree with me that the photographic portraits of the dishes served at our Payard dinner are quite tempting. But it begs that we ask a question-is there something more to the Master Series Dinners that goes beyond having a popular Chef sign your dinner card? The Master Series Dinners allow us to look beyond what our assumptions may be about the lack of depth and soul in the kitchens of Las Vegas. Beauty can be, in the case of these restaurants (and Las Vegas), much deeper than what we see on the surface. When I asked Chef Payard what brought him to Las Vegas, he said it was because “Caesar’s Palace built him the most beautiful Pastry Shop he could ever imagine.” It is indeed a beautiful shop, and Chef Payard was given the added financial support to bring some of his New York crew with him to Las Vegas. The pastry case in Las Vegas offers the same pastries sold in New York, (albeit a much smaller selection). By the way, Las Vegas loves gelato. New Yorkers have a preference for Payard cakes. New Yorkers apparently can’t get enough Payard cake. I’m a Westerner, so I’m not aware of the New York appetite for cakes. The pastry case in Las Vegas- Whimsical sorbets and gelatos- The support of Caesar’s was not the only incentive for Payard to come to Las Vegas. The Chef told me that he is able to bring his dream of beautiful pastry to the people who visit Las Vegas-people from around the world. He will not allow his exacting standards to suffer in Las Vegas, he visits the Patisserie 2-3 times a month. Yes, a month. (The rumor that constantly swirls around town is that some of the more well-known Chefs are rarely in their kitchens. In the case of Chef Payard, this is factually not true). This brings us back to a question about Las Vegas that we discussed last year when I reported on Uncork’d-and one I’d like us to consider as we continue our culinary journey this year. Is there a soul behind the cuisine found in the fine dining rooms in Las Vegas? Do these Master Series Dinners make that evident to the public, or is it only an issue for the food press to debate? You may be surprised by what some of Chef Payard’s fellow Frenchmen have to say about the soul and dining in Las Vegas. My next entry is about the “Theater in the Kitchen.” A visit into a world that will certainly further the debate about the culinary world of Las Vegas.

Before we delve into the individual events, one important question to consider is whether or not culinary events like “Uncork’d” are both relevant and appropriate. Las Vegas is the host to any number of culinary events throughout the year. That’s not really much of a surprise given the number of exceptional restaurants, top chefs and hotels that reside in this very small, unique strip of real estate. Of course, Las Vegas isn’t the only city that hosts culinary events. We’ve all attended events focused on food and dining-in Beaver Creek, Colorado, South Beach, Florida, and New York, New York. Some will argue that such events are inappropriate given the hard economic times-and the fact that the restaurant industry in America is suffering. Trust me when I tell you that Las Vegas is a microcosm of the current state of the economy-and the evidence of the downturn is apparent throughout the restaurant community. Is this the time for the restaurant industry to retreat and ride things out, or, is this the time to seize an opportunity, (through culinary events), to promote the restaurant industry? Producing an event like “Uncork’d” takes untold hours of commitment by many people, not to mention the budgets that must be involved. Imagine trying to coordinate the travel arrangements for Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse-and many, many other luminaries that are attending “Uncork’d.” Does the effort have value? Does the public benefit, in a tangible, measureable way, by attending these events? Or, do they simply come away from four days of wining and dining at “Uncork’d,” satisfied that they had a memorable experience and the opportunity to meet a world class Chef? Is that experience, in and of itself, enough? Are these events relevant? Do they serve to further the culinary arts-or, do they merely serve as a public relations vehicle for the Chefs, restaurants, vendors and Food Writers who are involved with these events? And finally, without culinary events like “Uncork’d,” would the culinary landscape be different today or in the future?

Tonight I’ll be attending two events. First, a private dinner that is part of the “Master Series Dinners” at Caesar’s Palace. I’ve chosen the dinner at Payard Patisserie and Bistro hosted by Chef Francois Payard and Alan Richman-both luminaries in their respective fields of French Cuisine and Food Journalism. I'm interested in finding out why Chef Payard's Pastry shop is so wildly popular in Las Vegas-and if he finds his operations in Las Vegas vastly different from his signature restaurant in New York. Alan, fresh off winning more James Beard Journalism Awards earlier this week, is seen as one of the "stars" of "Uncork'd." (Yet I am quite sure Alan, ever the gracious host, hardly sees himself as a star). Following that dinner, I’ll be going to the MGM Grand for an intriguing event billed as “Theater in the Kitchen” featuring Chef Joel Robuchon and performers of Cirque du Soleil. According to the program, each diner will have the opportunity to interact, (a photo op), with Chef Robuchon and receive a signed copy of his latest cookbook, “The Complete Robuchon.” I have a surprise in store and I will either become a terrible embarrassment-or be the hit of the party. I’m bringing an older Robuchon cookbook, one probably forgotten since the time it was written over 18 years ago-“Simply French” written by Patricia Wells. From what I know, the cookbook was the first time American home cooks were introduced to Robuchon’s signature “Puree de Pommes de Terre.” I’m hoping the Chef will be pleased and happy to write his autograph on page 183.

Hello from Las Vegas. Thank you Klatsch team for the generous introduction and this unique opportunity. I’m in Las Vegas to attend the “Vegas Uncork’d” events sponsored in part by Bon Appetit Magazine. This is the third year that I’ve attended “Uncork’d.” “Uncork’d” gives both food professionals-Chefs, Food Writers, Vintners and Restaurateurs-along with the general public at large, the opportunity to immerse themselves in four days of food, dining and interacting with “celebrity” Chefs like Bobby Flay and Cat Cora. (The “celebrity” chef is of course a very large presence in Las Vegas). Some associate an event like “Uncork’d” with people coming to Las Vegas to indulge in four days of decadence, (and of course, many of them do just that). The private dinners, “Grand Tasting” and “Grand Gala” banquet are the events for those appetites. I will attend each of the above events, but I’m also quite interested in the serious side of “Uncork’d”-the events that will serve for a large part of our “Klatsch” discussion. For those of us, and I count you among this group, who are intensely interested in food, cooking and dining, “Uncork’d” gives one the opportunity to attend seminars as far ranging as cooking classes on how to make sushi, (from one of the city’s top sushi chefs), to how to make some of the world-class desserts served in Las Vegas, (from two of America’s rising-star pastry chefs). I’ll be reporting on two “Culinary Conversations,” where panels of Chefs and Food Writers will discuss the influence of French cuisine in Las Vegas, (a panel composed of names that will surprise and amaze you). I’m attending a panel discussion on how Chefs in Las Vegas create a “farm to table” cuisine in this unique desert environment. (As you know, last year I reported on the “soul” of the restaurants in Las Vegas as a part of a report on Uncork’d. The discussion of “soul” largely centered on the issue of “farm-fresh” and “seasonal,” “local” products). I’ll do my best to report the events to you in a timely manner. But rather than rush to the computer the moment after I put the fork down, we’ll take the time to let our story unfold and the discussions to follow. Please join me, and together, over the course of the next four days and beyond, we’ll “Pop the Cork,” (in spirit if not in person), together, to discuss, debate and share in “Vegas Uncork’d.”

Last Saturday was my first outdoor grilling day of the season. I did Salmon with an Orange-Teriyaki glaze served with a New Potato Salad. I tend to cook salmon to different levels of doneness depending on the cooking method I'm using and the texture of the meat that I'm looking for. When I grill salmon outdoors I actually cook it through to medium-well. I like the more firm texture of the salmon meat when I grill it over charcoal. When I cook salmon indoors using a sear-roasting method I cook it medium-rare. The glaze was a reduction of soy sauce, rice vinegar, orange juice, brown sugar, garlic, ginger and orange peel. My basic recipe for new potato salad includes baby red potatoes, green beans, Kalamata olives, tomato, capers, basil and fresh mayonnaise. For this recipe I added some fresh asparagus spears.

I was invited to attend 19th annual Epicurean Affair held at The Flamingo on April 23. The Epicurean Affair is comprised of restaurants from both Las Vegas hotels and independent restaurants. Many of the restaurants in attendance are housed in hotels that are a part of Park Place Entertainment. The Park Place family of hotels includes Caesar's Palace, Paris, Harrah's, The Flamingo, Rio, Bally's and the Imperial Palace. Public Relations is a very important piece of the Las Vegas business model, so it's critical that the large hotel/resort/casinos are constantly advertising their amenities to the public. And of course, dining and drinking are a large part of that PR effort. Thus, a tasting event like the Epicurean Affair is one of the avenues that are used to promote a restaurant to the public. In addition to the restaurant booths, there were more liquor vendors than I could count, some local food product companies, and beer and wine merchants. There were so many people crowding around the booths that I didn't have time to spot, or visit with, many recognizable chefs. I did shake hands quickly with Chefs Luciano Pellegrini of Valentino and Bradley Ogden whose namesake restaurant is in Caesar's. Chef Carla Pellegrino of Rao's at Caesar's was surrounded by doting fans the entire night. The program listed Restaurant Guy Savoy as one of the featured restaurants-but Chef Savoy and his staff were noticeably absent. Even in these lean economic times for Las Vegas, the event was well-attended. My rough estimate is that there were about 1,500 people in attendance-mostly locals and Flamingo hotel guests, (many of them “invited” guests who were given complimentary tickets). The weather was very cooperative for an outdoor tasting event set amidst the pools of the Flamingo-about 80 degrees with a light breeze. The basic idea is of these tasting events is that you go from booth to booth and eat small samples of each restaurant's offerings. As it usually goes for me, I never get enough food, nor is the food ever of the same quality one would find if one were sitting at the table in the dining room. The Imperial Palace is known more for its location and automobile collection than its restaurants-but the tiramisu from the “Embers” Steakhouse was one of the best desserts I tasted. Les Artistes Steakhouse is in the Paris hotel. The steakhouses of Las Vegas have become obsessed with prime grade beef and one becomes quite confused over the choices-Kobe #1, 2 or 3, Wagyu, Nebraska corn-fed or Montana grass-fed. I’m not sure of the origin of this beef, but it was delicious and the perfect dish for an outdoor tasting-a small skewer of tender beef, sweet crab and crisp, fresh asparagus. (Of course, traditional steak "Oscar" includes a sauce Bernaise. I didn't see a small dollop of bernaise on this "Oscar.") One of the many, too many really, cocktail booths. Sweet, rummy, sort of Mai Tai. The very deadly “skeleton of vodka” served by Red Square restaurant at Mandalay Bay. You don’t really notice it in this photo, but a nice young lady poured vodka in the top of the skeleton and the deadly spirits traveled through the icy skull into a cup. Often over-looked for the more popular restaurants on the Strip, Envy Steakhouse is located in the Renaissance Hotel. Popularity and location on the Strip don’t necessarily correlate to the food being better. Envy Steakhouse is more than worthy. (The Strawberry Infusion was even better with a shot of vodka from the aforementioned “skeleton.”) More prime-grade beef. I couldn’t taste much garlic in the garlic-marinated prawn, but it was cooked to perfection, as was the beef. Chef Luciano Pellegrini, Chef of Valentino at the MGM Grand, wondering where all these ravenous people came from. From Emeril’s in the MGM Grand. If it’s kept properly chilled on ice, chilled seafood and cold fruits are a perfect dish for a tasting event-the Chef can prep the seafood and fruits ahead of time and then dress the dish on-site. The taster has the benefit of a small bite that can easily be handled with drink in hand. Jasmine at Bellagio. Behind-the-booth prep of watermelon with Dungeness crab. My personal favorite dish and cocktail came from Jasmine restaurant at Bellagio- little squares of meltingly tender Kobe beef short ribs glazed in what I would describe as a teriyaki sauce. It was the perfect dish given the venue-the highest-quality beef slowly-braised in the restaurant for hours and a sauce prepared and reduced at the restaurant. A simple dish that didn't need fussy on-site cooking and better yet, anything served on skewers that can be eaten with the fingers is a good dish for a tasting event. Behind the scenes saucing and prep of the beef dish. Most of the cocktails were overly sweet, and overly boozed. But the standout cocktail of the evening also came from Jasmine at Bellagio-a smooth and refreshing drink with a base of lychee vodka. Three Chefs from McCormack and Schmick’s worked all night to shuck these beautiful fresh oysters-Kumamoto from the Pacific and Bluepoints from the East coast. Succulent pork belly and crisp cucumber in steamed bun from Pearl restaurant at the MGM- Steakhouse 46, (I didn’t figure out the number association to the name), at The Flamingo- Grilling lamb chops, (Which I mistakenly missed on my first pass by this booth. When I came back they were all gone). Steak “sliders.” The sliders were displayed en-masse at numerous booths and in every imaginable guise a Chef could concoct-both sweet and savory. Slides have become all the rage at parties and on restaurant menus. They’re o.k., but don’t you end up eating three or four when what you really want is just one big burger? From the vodka shots flowing from the mouth of a skeleton carved in ice, the requisite Las Vegas "models" outfitted in tight pants serving alcohol-laced "sweet-tea" and "Chicken and Waffles" at the Toby Keith "I Love This Bar and Grill" booth, the delicious little hazelnut gelato truffles encased in chocolate served by Fiamma at the MGM, the freshly-shucked Oysters served by McCormack and Schmick's, the food was generous and delicious. While the Epicurean Affair won’t necessarily cure Las Vegas of its economic flu, it was an appropriate showcase to advertise some of the city’s great restaurants. Tickets for the Epicurean Affair were priced at $100. Considering that $100 barely buys an appetizer and entrée at some of the high-end dining rooms in Las Vegas, the evening was certainly worth it-an exceptional value given the setting, the always interesting Las Vegas crowd and the variety of food and drink.

I'm very naive when it comes to tofu. Do you know how the protein content of tofu compares to pork or chicken?

I don't care where they tape it as long as they get some great chefs this time around!!! ← If Norm was correct in his column, and he's usually right on with things, the filming is underway in Las Vegas. I'll be there next week and I'll see what I can find out. While I'd like to think that the city doesn't matter, I'm sure the producers will find some way to use Las Vegas to its full, dramatic effect. Of course, that's assuming on my part that the show will be shot in Las Vegas. And we can all wait with great anticipation for the return of a resident chef in Las Vegas-the man some loved to hate-Marcel. I'm wondering if he'll appear as a judge or in his recurring role as a Sous Chef.

But I wonder if they soaked up a lot more oil. That's been the reason for older ones, I think. And the 'tooth' would have to be different. Not better or worse, but different. ← I don't know if they soaked up more oil. Probably. And you're right that the 'tooth' was different. Much more tender. They were really good. The main thing, though, was that they were very easy to work with. Upthread somebody mentioned that they had a hard time rolling or folding fresh tortillas without them breaking. That didn't happen at all. ← In my original cook-off posts I did mention that I had difficulty rolling fresh tortillas-due in part to my ignorance of how to actually prepare tortillas. It wasn't until I prepared for this enchiladas cook-off that I realized my mistake. In the past I rolled the tortillas "dry" and then sauced them. I had no clue the tortillas should be softened first. So while it's messy and takes some last minute theatrics in the kitchen, now I dip in warm oil, dip in sauce, fill, roll and sauce again-all in just a few minutes. I've used both fresh tortillas and tortillas that I had in the freezer for months. The freshness of the tortillas didn't seem to matter as much as the dipping method I used. And while I'm now a fan of the above method, I still get that craving for a more "Americanized" version of an enchiladas-after the dip and roll, I'll sprinkle on some shredded cheese out of a plastic bag and run the enchiladas under the broiler. I guess old tastes die hard.

Yes, you're right. Thanks for clarifying.

On Sunday, Norm Clarke wrote in his column for the Review-Journal that filming for Top Chef Season 6 was starting this week in Las Vegas.

Looking over the current tasting menu it doesn't appear that there is any difference in what used to run $250 and now runs $185. There are still plenty of luxe ingredients like foie gras, caviar and prime-grade beef. The portions were never large at Alex. They couldn't really save much in terms of cost if they cut out things like an Amuse or Petit Fours, so I really think it's just a symptom of lowering prices and cutting back on hours to reduce some costs. There doesn't appear to be any cutbacks on the large ala carte menu either. They are currently offering 8 appetizers, 8 entrees and 5 desserts. There are plenty of high-quality ingredients on the ala carte menu-foie gras, sweetbreads, langoustines, john dory, veal loin and kurobata pork among them. The cost of the ala carte menu didn't seem to be much lower than what I remember from last year. Appetizers run $15 and up, entrees begin at about $40 and desserts $15 on average. This is the current tasting menu at Alex: Kaimin Kanpachi Sashimi Yuzu-Lemon Panna Cotta, Golden Osetra Caviar, Compressed Pear, Jalapeno and Manni Extra Virgin Olive Oil Rice Crusted Sea Scallop Parsnip Veloute, Roasted Chicken Jus, Quince, Golden Raisins and Puffed Rice Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras Pickled Turnips, Maui Onion Compote, Salad of Steamed and Confit Matsutake Mushrooms Crispy Rouget de Roche Eggplant Puree, Orange-Burgundy Sauce, Roasted Bell Pepper Marinade, Coriander and Piment d'espelette Japanese Wagyu Beef Loin Parmesan Bone Marrow Custard, Black Mission Figs, Arugula and Red Wine Syrup Coconut Tapioca with Passion Fruit Glaze and Tropical Fruits Warm Apple Saute with Maple-Black Walnut Cake and Sour Cream Parfait

This just went on my list to try! ← Thanks. I hope you'll like it. You get the tender asparagus, crisp, salty, prosciutto and then the cool, sweet, minty melon. It's wonderful. I should also add I always peel the stalk of the asparagus before I cook it. I find the peel a bit stringy if it's left on.

Last week when I was in Las Vegas I took a walk over to the Wynn and Encore to check out the restaurant menus. I was especially interested in seeing if the terrible economy of Las Vegas has had an impact in lowering restaurant prices. As you'll read below, the answer is yes, the economy is obviously impacting restaurant prices and some of the high-end places have taken notice. All of the restaurants at Wynn and Encore are currently offering special "Taste of Wynn" menus. Each menu is at least three courses and many menus offer a selection of dishes for each course. They are incredibly good deals. The only draw-back I saw was that the specials are only offered from 530p-700p, a relatively early hour for dining in Las Vegas. The current special menu at Wing Lei is priced at $69 per person. Note that the Peking Duck ordered off the regular menu is priced at $44.00. "Chef Richar'ds Imperical Peking Duck Tasting." Table Carved Peking Duck, Handmade Pancakes, Cucumber, Scallion, Hoisin Peking Duck Salad Mesclun, Almonds, Orange Truffle Vinaigrette Wild Duck Soup Asian Vegetables Wok-Fried Duck Asparagus, Garlic Black Bean Sauce Pan-Seared Duck Noodles Chinese Broccoli, Crispy Noodles Chef's Dessert Selection The "Taste of Wynn" menu at Alex is priced at $95 and offers the following: Choice of- Maine Sea Scallops White and Green Asparagus, Organic Polenta and Sweet Sausage or Black Truffle Risotto Crispy Chicken, Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Chicken Jus Choice of- Roasted Tenderloin of Beef Gratin Yukon Potatoes, Sweet Onions, Bordelaise Sauce or Hawaiian Onaga Taro Puree, Young Coconut, Nori-Radish Salad and Carrot-Ginger Sauce Choice of- Vanilla Citrus Parfait Toasted Marshmallow Cream, Campari Sorbet or Crunchy Chocolate Caramel Bombe I noticed that Alex is now only open four days a week, Wednesday thru Saturday. In the past they were open at least six days a week. The full tasting menu at Alex was priced at $185 last week, with wines $235. A year ago the tasting menu was in the $250 range. I checked with a concierge and he "assured" me that if you are dining in a group, the restaurant is more than happy to accomodate differing menu selections at your table. In other words, if someone wanted to order ala carte, one ordered the "Taste of Wynn" menu and a third diner ordered the full-blown tasting menu, your party would be accomodated. (I think that would be a difficult task for the servers and the kitchen to make sure the flow of dishes was spot on, but I suppose it could work). A different sign of the poor economy in Las Vegas-the valet I visited with. Last year he was a stockbroker-this year he's parking cars.

This is my recipe for an asparagus appetizer, "Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus with Honeydew Sorbet." Honeydew Sorbet 2 cups chopped honeydew melon 1 cup simple syrup 1/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves 1 tbsp. fresh squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup Midori melon liquer (substitute with Vodka) Mint leaves for garnish Simple Syrup 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup water 1 cup chopped fresh mint leaves Make the simple syrup first. Bring water and sugar to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add mint leaves and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook syrup for 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and strain syrup into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or until ready to use. Place melon, syrup, mint leaves and lemon juice in a blender. Puree until smooth, about 1 minute. Strain puree into a bowl. Add Midori liquer, cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours. Pour melon puree into ice cream machine and process according to manufacturer's instructions, about 20 minutes. Keep sorbet frozen in freezer until service. Asparagus 8 spears of asparagus, peeled 4 slices prosciutto, cut in half 1 tbsp. olive oil Heat 1 quart of water to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Add asparagus and blanch until just tender, about 3 minutes. Remove asparagus and drain on paper towels. Let asparagus cool to room temperature. Heat a skillet over medium heat. Brush skillet with a little olive oil. Add prosciutto slices and saute until just crisp, about 30 seconds. Turn prosciutto over and sauté another 30 seconds. Remove prosciutto from skillet and blot off fat with a paper towel. To serve, wrap each asparagus spear with a slice of prosciutto. Place a scoop of melon sorbet in a large martini glass or in a large soup bowl. Add two spears of asparagus on either side of sorbet. Garnish sorbet with a mint sprig.

I just returned from a quick trip to Las Vegas and I didn't hear anything about Savoy closing. But I would add that the economic downturn has and continues to hit all of the restaurants very hard. I don't think we're anywhere near the end of the cycle and we'll probably be hearing news of more restaurant closings in Las Vegas in the future. I'll be reporting on some incredible menu pricing specials that I found at the Wynn and Encore while I was in town.

What a delicious photo-I'm hoping you do post more often. I must admit, I've never tried tilapia because I assumed it didn't have any flavor. But your dish has changed my mind. I'm going to have to try this one.

Thank you for adding some more insight into the issue of the unique financial arrangements between the restaurants, the "name" Chefs, the hotels and casinos of Las Vegas. Coming from someone with first-hand experience in reviewing the balance sheets, your experience gives us more details into these relationships. Vive le profit, (and creating the right image), are indeed an indelible part of Las Vegas.

Thanks. I've been cooking and eating oysters for around 40 years so I figure I should know a bit about how to do both! While my home-fried oysters are quite good, they don't compare to the oysters at "Dan and Louis Oyster Bar" in downtown Portland, Oregon. They've been frying up oysters for about a 100 years!

The Easter dinner turned out quite well-with the exception of the planned Smoked Salmon Pizza. I left the lox off the shopping list and didn't realize I was missing the main ingredient, the salmon, until it came time to make the pizza dough. I made a passable alternative-with roasted red peppers, olives and bleu cheese. Just didn't have the distinct flavors of smoked salmon, capers, cucumber, sour cream and dill. Maybe another time. Dinner was a Roast Leg of Lamb that I marinated overnight in olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary and crushed juniper berries- The Leg of Lamb resting after coming out of the oven- The Leg of Lamb was served with Roasted Potatoes and an Asparagus Custard with Morels. The sauce was a simple jus of the pan roasting juices, with veal stock, red wine and a knob of butter added- Dessert was the Lemon Bar Tart with Whipped Cream and Candied Lemon Peel-

Yesterday, I caught an episode of "My Life in Food" on Food Network. I must say I was surprised to see what I'd describe as a "serious" show about food on the Food Network. Surprised-but refreshing to know that the Producer's see value in this type of program. This episode featured two stories-one about raw honey and the second a piece about one women's quest to advocate raw milk. The information was presented in a serious tone with a focus on the people involved. "My Life in Food" isn't a cooking show and it doesn't rely on an entertainer to present the information. But it's nice to see that serious subjects about food are being presented to the large viewing audience that watches Food Network.

I'll tag onto the above post from Steven and add a real-life example from my home kitchen that applies to the use of a Chef's coat. As a home cook, I certainly don't have the knife skills of an experienced Sushi Chef. Over the past couple of years I got incredibly frustrated that I couldn't slice meat thin like the meat I found in the deli. I never considered purchasing an industrial strength meat slicer. I suppose, like wearing a Chef's coat at home, I found it to be incredibly pretentious to spend hundreds of dollars on a professional meat slicer for home use. And what would people say if they walked into my kitchen and saw the buzzer on the counter? Would I be embarassed in front of friends and family for owning what some assume is an unncessary piece of kitchen equipment for the home? Well, as I mentioned above in my post about the Wynn Chef's jacket, I had no basis in real-life experience to backup any arguments about buying/not buying a professional meat slicer for home use. So I bought one. It's an incredible addition to my kitchenand now I'm slicing homemade corned beef and making deli quality sandwiches. Nothing beats the texture of thinly sliced meats. Is it pretentious? Well, some may think so, but I couldn't care less. I'm interested in quality, safety and results. If that means I buy a Chef's coat or meat slicer, I'm willing to make the investment. Since buying the meat slicer, I've invested in a restaurant grade waffle maker. It cost hundreds, but the quality of the waffles is priceless and it has heat controls and safety features you won't find in cheap waffle makers. My chef's coat is in the mail.

Hope your oyster frying quest went well. You mentioned that your fish market gets regular deliveries of fresh oysters from Louisiana. That's great start for anyone who is frying oysters for the first time-you have to use fresh oysters. And as others have mentioned, if you can find jars of pre-shucked, fresh oysters, buy them. Pre-shucked oysters save you the time and drama of shucking them yourself, and if they are fresh, (as indicated on the date on the jar), they'll be just fine. I happen to live in the Pacific Northwest where we always have a supply of fresh-pre-shucked oysters. I prefer what we call "extra-small" or "petite" oysters. They fry up quickly, and I like the crispy outer texture and soft interior of a small nugget of fried oyster. I use a very simple method for frying oysters. I take the oysters out of the jar, and pour them, (along with the juices in the jar), into a bowl with a little cold water. The liquid serves as the liquid element you would add if you were making a batter. The next step I use is dredging the oysters in all-purpose flour that I season with cayenne, black pepper and Paul Prudhomme Cajun "Magic" seasoning blend. I put the dredged oysters on a cookie sheet and cool them in the fridge about an hour, then dredge them a second time just before frying. I use a very old electric skillet set to 375 for frying the oysters. I typically use canola oil for frying oysters because I prefer a bland oil over a stronger flavored oil like peanut oil. The oysters fry very quickly, no more than two minutes per side. Remove them from the oil and drain on paper towels for a few seconds and serve them straight away. While I use the same method every time I fry oysters, I do change the sauce I serve with them. Most of the time I only serve fresh lemon wedges with the oysters, but on occasion I'll serve them with homemade tartar sauce or "green goddess" salad dressing. Here are some photos of my fried oysters: Fried oysters served with lemon and salad: Fried oysters served on top of pasta:

I agree. After this topic was started, I went back in the closet to actually try on the Chef's coat I got from the Wynn. I had never actually tried it on-I didn't know if it fit, and for some reason I can't explain, I thought it was made of some heavy sort of cotton fabric that would be itchy and uncomfortable. But I had no firm experience to back-up my claims. Well-it fits perfectly-so thanks go to the people at the Wynn who looked me over and guessed my size precisely without measuring my girth! More importantly, the Chef's coat is 100% cotton but has a light texture and feel. It's obviously been made with the heat of a professional kitchen in mind. I tried it on and I prefer it to the aprons I typically wear-my arms would be protected, and the coat gives more protection to the neck area, not to mention the additional splatter and stain protection I wouldn't get from a t-shirt or an apron. Now the Wynn Chef's coat is certainly a valuable collectible, and a memory of a wonderful visit to their kitchens last year, so I certainly won't wear it in my kitchen when I roast the Easter dinner Leg of Lamb. It is going back in my library with my cookbook collection. But this discussion has caused me to buy a similar Chef's coat, without the autographs, to have available to wear at home. I may not wear it when I heat up some soup, but it's going to be a part of my kitchen in the future.