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Everything posted by Brad S
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It's funny, When I was a little boy I had never heard of curry. As I grew up and had the oppurtunity to get into cooking I started to see curry powder being used in some dishes here in the states,but I hated them. I reliezed later in my career when I began to explore the spice world was that the cooks and chefs using curry powder just hadn't had a clue how to use it. As in any learning curve,it's practice,taste,practice and taste some more. While I am not offering a particular dish at this time, I have learned that the flavor of curries used properly is a very sensual experance and alows the other ingredients to sing
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For me it's about priorities and being practical with my time. Purchasing a high quality puff pastry and of course pasta is the norn in the restaurant buisness,it takes a great deal of time and dedicating a paid employee to prepare such items. I agree %100 with the use of butter in risottos,to me it is just to important to leave out,to not mont with butter in a risotto will leave an incomplete dish. I have also had succes with olive oil as well if i'm doing a more southren rendition. Like I said,cream and butter have a place in our kitchens. For vegetables the seasons dictate what I use, sweet spring peas,and baby corn,tender baby spinach I think benifit from using them fresh and trying to highlight them in a dish. If you are preparing 300 orders of fettucini carbanara maybe you don't want to use baby spring pea's as there to labor intesive and expensive,hence the frozen sweet peas are perfect. But a pan seared halibut with baby spring pea's,ramps and morels as an example would be a great vehicale to highlight the fresh stuff. Ok sorry,i've gone way off topic here
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First I would like to say a drizzle of seasame oil and some butter and cream in a dish does not make a meal,nor do I ever under estimate the education of the modern palate. I have worked to many years to see the use of "tricks" as a way to prepare wonderful,tasteful and wholesome foods for pur clientele. I think the over use of butter and or cream in modern dishes is probably being done because of a particular chef not being exposed to the many alternitives availible to use and the enormous resourses as well. I find some chefs that stick to beurre blanc and hollandaise as there base sauce components are just caught in the old cycle of cooking. Maybe a bit intimidated to venture out and learn and develope thier cuisine. Butter and cream (and other fats) have their place in the kitchen,but at the same time to be succesful we must listen very carefully to our clientale,absorb what works and make sense then work hard to offer our guest what they are looking for.(without comprimizing ones own integrity) App,perhapes you have some helpful insights to share
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What would you do with the gastrique, and what would you use for the acid? Varmit. I use a white Verjus & a bit of cider vinegar for the acid and a barsac (or the like) for body. I normally serve this with duck
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I agree, This is also the difference between reading a cookbook and cooking.
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Where'd all this foreign food come from??
Brad S replied to a topic in Caribbean, USVI & West Indies: Dining
Hello Jodi, This is an intersting recipe. I would be fun to somehow trace back in time what was used instead of things like ketchup and lea & perrins as flavorings in your cuisine. What I mean by this is,these things have a tracible history of there avalibility in cooking.Before they where used I bet their was a more (honest)wat of preparing certian foods. It's like using (curry powder) prepared curry powder is a staple of convenience,but somewhere along the line the individual ingredients must have been highlighted in native dishes (i'm assuming) The very nice recipe you shared seems to be "modern" in it's make up. What would be used instead of gravy master years ago? I am off to the library tommorow to pick up some books, I will look for a book on the cuisine of your beautiful home to try to answer some of my own questions -
you can make peach gastrique and freeze it for later use,of course chutneys
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I offered my mechoui recipe in the Moroccan thread
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Perhapes an overnight marination of mirin and sake,ginger, lemon grass,garlic,green onion,white pepper,sesame oil? Dredged in rice flour and braised with Asian aromatics,chicken stock and a addition of mirin in the braising liquid,clouds ear shrooms and cilantro?
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Hi Mike, Anyway you can be a bit more specific? Do you recall any base ingredients? Thanks
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Mechoui for Suvir 10 # Lamb ( I use the four ¼) 1 ½ tablespoons ground coriander seeds 5 cloves mashed garlic 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 6 tablespoon softened sweet butter S&P to taste Trim out the fat from your lamb, then make a deep slit under the 4 leg bone along the breast plate.Blend all the other ingreidients into a paste and rub it into the meat and let stand for 10/15 minutes Preheat your oven to 475 f Place the lamb,fatty side up in a large roasting pan.Place on the middle rack of your oven and roast for about 15 minuts,then reduce the heat to 350f and continue to roast for about 3 hours,or until the meat can be easily removed from the bone.Baste every 15 minutes with the juices (don’t forget,very important) as you want to develop a great crust. I serve this with a little bowl of salt and ground cumin to sprinkle on the meat. Also..don’t be shy use your fingers to enjoy this one. Zaalook is also one of my favorites 2 # eggplant salt evoo for frying 3 ripe tomatoes pelled seeded and concasse 3 cloves garlic chopped a touch of cumin (not much) 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 tablespoon minced cilantro about 3 table spoon lemon juice Remove three verical strips of the skin from the eggplant,then slice into ½ inch slices,salt them and let them leach for a good half hour,rinse them and gently squeeze them and pat dry the slices Heat the evoo in a skillet and fry the eggplant until golden brown on both sides,removing them with a slotted spoon when there done (keep the oil in the pan when done)now..mash the eggplants with the tomatoes,garlic,spices and cilantro Fry the puree in the oil until all the liquid has vapored off (only the eggplant and a bit of oil should remain) Then pour off the oil and season it with the lemon juice (also check for salt)
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I have noticed some interest in Moroccan food thanks to Adams thread. I did some reading today about the cuisine of Morocco. I wanted to share with you a couple things of interest. First I found what the ten most important spices are in Moroccan food. They are Cinnamon, Cumin, Saffron, Turmeric, Ginger, Black pepper, cayenne, paprika, aniseed and sesame seeds. These are most often found in the dishes of morocco. Then there is a secondary list of nine spices. They are, Allspice, caraway, cloves, coriander seeds, gum arabic, fenugreek, licorice, honey dates and orris root. What I found really interesting in is the blending of spices used in "Ras el hanout" (Top of shelf) it is used in game dishes, lamb and even in a hashish candy called (Majoun) This is what was analized to be in some bought back from Morocco. Allspice, ashberries, belladonna leaves,black cumin seeds, black peppercorns, cantharides, cardamom pods,wild cardamom pods,cayenne, cassia cinnamon, ceylon cinnamom, cloves, coriander seed, cubebe pepper, earth almonds, galingale, ginger, gouza el asnab,Grains of paridise, long pepper, lavendar, monks pepper, mace, nutmeg, orrisroot, turmeric. WOW!!! Thats a ton of spices in one blend. There are some spices that I need to look up so I can comment on them. This is one I am going to try this weekend 4 whole nutmegs 10 rose buds 12 cinnamom sticks 12 blades of mace 1 teaspoon aniseed 8 pieces of turmeric 2 small pieces of orrisroot 2 dried cayennes 1/2 teaspoon lavendar 1 tablespoon white pepper corns 2 pieces galingale 2 tablespoons whole ginger root 6 cloves 24 all spice berries 20 green caramom pods 4 wild black cardomom pods. It will go into my blender (I hope it doesn't explode) I then hope to make a lamb tajin. I'll let you know how it turns out ************************************************ A friend of mine who is from Morocco and is a waiter were I work helped me with some ideas today. We discussed at some lenth "Diffa"Which means Feast. This is were a succession of moroccos best known dishes are served. He explained to me that these are not daily events but are usaully rezerved for the whealthy. I took some notes from my friend sied, The first dish we discussed is called "Bestilla" which is a round pie made with many layers of paper thin Warqa, which means leaf. Inside are three seperate layers, two being savoury and one sweet. Stewed pigeon and the spice "Ras-el-hanout" play an important role in the savoury layers. the sweet layer is prepared with crushed sauteed almonds mixed with iceing sugar and cinnamon. Bestilla is cooked on both sides and served with more sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top. another dish we talked about is "Choua" (steamed shoulder and ribs of lamb) served with salt and cumin. Or in the country side "Mechoui" (barbecued lamb). Then come the tajins,Chicken,lamb,fish,game...The last tajin is always sweet and is usaully lamb, honey and onion. Finally comes the steaming cous cous. after comes fresh fruit and green tea, Only fresh spearmint is used The tea is heavily brewed and sweetned. Some times the tea is served with a cresent shaped pastry called "qa'b el-ghazel (horns of the doe) it is a thin layer of dought wrapped around moist almond and sugar paste. Sied, promised me tommorow he will brings some of his books on the cuisine of Morocco. He even will bring me a mini tajin because I was so interested in his country. *(note) These are posts from another board I wanted to share. I hope we can talk a bit about Moroccon cuisine
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Simon, Unfortunatly I am laid up for a couple months after just haveing back surgery. So at this time I have not been able to play in my kitchen with what I have learned here. I have printed a # of recipes that I am going to prepare when I am on my feet again. I prepare many theme events in my work,so I am anxoiusly waiting to prepare an Indian event. My goal is to be able to translate from page to plate the recipes I am learning. I had asked for advice on some books (which were answered) on Indian food to help bolster my knowelage and to be able to reference as I move forward. Simon, I promise to post my "successes" :-) in the kitchen as soon as I am able. I am going to have my wife prepare your hot and sour onion dish sometime this week as I have asked her to bring home some snapper
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Not sure if this is appropriate or not,but anyway. I have started to become very interested in Indian cuisine because of the many excellent posts in this forum. For me..being a chef.it's an oppurtunity to learn about something so weaved in the fabric of cooking history that I feel somewhat energized by it. Most American chefs were trained in the "classic" European technique,so after my 23+ years in kitchens I find it absoluty wonderful to study the cuisines of India,Asia and the middle east. I find that I cook better when I have read and learned about the cuisine I am cooking,when I use spices I look at them diffrently now then before because I studied the spice trade of the middle east,somehow knowing the origins of what your using elevates your passion about it. I do not really understand the point of the posted article,but I guess it is just another oppurtunity for me to learn from your replies to it
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Simon, What a great recipe!!! I love the idea of serving this with fish. Another one I have to print out. Thanks
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Steven, Yes that is great imformation, and I agree that the cous cous fro israel is a bit differnt than what most may use or consider the real deal. I have had much success with the little pearls from Israel and find they fit very well with most traditinal Moroccan recipes. I also love the toasted cous cous from Italy very much, Ithink it is exstuded and then cut..hence the square shape,but lovely nutty flavor. I thank you very much for sharing this imformation with me. Life is a process of learning
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Suvir,Thank you for your confidence. I type slow..so bear with me. I rubbed my tagine pot like a genies home for good luck before I post this recipe. 1/2 cup dried chci peas 4 cups cous cous 1 1/2 # lamb neck,cut into 5 or 6 pieces 4 spanish onions (large ones) Salt 2 teaspoons fresh milled black pepper 1 teaspoon minced ginger root 2 pinched saffron threads (about a 1/4 teaspoon rubbed in your fingers) 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 1 cup sweet butter 1 #carrotes 11/2 # pumpkin 1/4 cup sugar 1/2 # black raisins. 1. Cover the dried chic peas with water and soak over night 2. The next day,drain the chic peas and cook in fresh water foe about an hour,drain,cool and remove the skins by plunging them in a bowl of cold water and gently rubbing them between your fingers. The skins will rise to the top of the water-Throw em out (or put them in your compost like I do). 3.Prepare your cous cous by washing and drying and then lightly steaming it over some broth 4. To make the broth (ok backwards , sorry)throw your lamb in your pot (or bottom of your couscousier if you have one) 1/4 and slice the onion.Add the lamb with the salt,spices,half the butter and about 2 qts of water,and the drained chic peas.Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer for around an hour 5.prepare the veggies,peel the carrots,half them and cut into 2 inch pieces. Peel and seed the pumpkin,then cut into medium chunks (maybe a couple inches) 6.steam and dry the cous cous again 7. pop in the carrots,sugar and raisins to the broth,keep simmering for 1/2 hour 8.1/2 hour before serving,ad the pumpkin to the broth.Bring to a boil,seal the containers with cheese cloth if you can tooo hold in the pressure and cook for about 20 minuts more 9. dump the cous cous into a large serving dish and toss with the rest of the butter,use a fork to fluff and get rid of any lumps. Spread out and form a well in the center. With a perf spoon lift out pieces of the meat,brunios the meat and put it in the well.Cover with the veggies,strain the broth and pour it over the whole mess. Suvir..I am really honored to share this recipe with you, and I hope you enjoy making it this Autumn
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Ramonet Montrachet........OMG, A true, pure Montrachet is a treat of a life time. I very much enjoy the whites of Latour,batard Montrachet,Corton Charlimane (please excuse my spelling) The only way I can describe a "prime" Ausone is like drinking the Joffrey Ballet...Perfect
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With all due respect, I think theres more to making a great cous-cous than just adding hot stock,cover and wait. There are "Brands" of cous-cous with these directions but these are only for convenience and IMHO bare no resemblment to the true deal. I do not have a couscousiere,but I make a sudo one by making my tagine or stew in a pot and fit it with a fine perferated pan to cook the cous cous on top. I do not make my own cous cous from scratch, I usaually buy Israely or Moraccan cous cous. I have a couple of nice recipes to share if anyone is interested. I can't wait for pumpkins to be around because one of the earliest vegetable cous couses by the berbers is a pumpkin cous cous all decked out with great spices and aromatics
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They are indeed edible,that's the whole idea,offering your guest something beautiful and special. But I don't recomend eating them like peanut M&Ms Hmmmm
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Steve, I understand your thoughts on Sassicia, Although I have a great deal of respect of the level of quality in the Super Tuscans...1990 Solia blew me away. Incredible concentration of fruit,with perfect balance of sweet oak and young tannins. I have had all the wines except the petrus,and i'm pretty sure I will never taste that wine unless i'm willing to sell my home. The 47 Cheval Blanc was the greatest wine I have ever tasted,I've had some older Ausones from St Emilion that were also incredible. Pichon..both Comtesse and Barone have become my favorite (or a couple of them anyway) super seconds
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I buy my flowers for garnishes through one of my produce prevayors. You never want to use treated petels. It;s seems that you pretty much got the info you need,let me just give you a bit more to help. I lightly beat a couple of egg whites at room temp in a small bowl until frothy,add a cup of super fine sugar per eggwhite (two in this case).Make sure your petels are clean and bone dry.Have a sheet pan lined with parchment to put the petels as you go.I use tweezers to pick up the petels one at a time at the base then I use one of my daughters never been used little soft paint brush (thanks girls),coat the top and bottom of the petel with a very thin layer of the egg whites,then spoon the sugar over the moist petel (it's important to coat the entire petel well to avoid it messing up on you)tap of any excess sugar with the tweezer and let it set up for a couple hours before you use them for garnish
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Thank you Suvir for the book link,great imformation. So besides your book (btw,when will it be avalible?)I will look for Mrs Balbir Singh books as well as Jaffrey. A couple question. 1, Which of Madhur Jaffreys books should I look for? 2, I hope next time in the City to go on a book hunt,can you recomend some book stores you enjoy tia