ronnie_suburban

No, Michael, you're the inspiration. Yeah, pretty much. It's still a bit drier in texture but at this point, I'm actually considering that a positive -- in the same way I consider it a positive that my bacon doesn't curl up in the pan when I cook it, like the commercial stuff does. Yeah, I really should thank the guy who suggested it =R=

There were 4 of us and I basically took pics of everything (except the desserts . . . DOH!). And yeah, I loved how much the tomato salad resembled sashimi. When it first hit the table, I could have sworn it was sashimi. Very playful and seriously delicious. =R=

The results are in and I'm very pleased with them. This attempt was definitely the most successful of the 3. I like the brine (described above) very much and can't taste a whole lot of difference in the finished product between it and a more aggressively-seasoned dry cure. I think that salt + smoke tends to trump just about any other flavor element. So, while the other elements in previous runs are clearly there (dill, bay, white pepper, etc.), they are not really missed here. I also love the texture of this fish. Even after brining for 20 hours and smoking for 8 hours, it's still quite soft and completely pliable . . . The finished wild King fillet. I believe that the greater thickness in this piece of fish, relative to the Coho, made a big difference in the final product. Interior flesh, which is oily and supple. This tasted absolutely terrific and pretty much hit the mark I was seeking. I'm not sure I could really improve upon this recipe and method. It's fairly smokey but not overly so. It's salty but only as much as you'd expect it to be. The texture and the color are just about perfect and by including the small amount of pink salt, I believe I've guarded adequately against botulism. My wife and I throw a big holiday open house every year and one of the items we always serve is lox. I now know that I will be making my own for this year's installment and it's a great feeling. We also serve rumaki, for which I'll be making my own bacon and jambalaya for which I'll be making my own andouille sausage and tasso. I'm absolutely loving my Charcuterie self sufficiency. =R=

LOL! I'm guessing they'd serve it to anyone but I'm honestly not sure. =R=

Thanks, Tim -- and everyone else -- for the input. I let the salmon smoke for about 8 hours, then wrapped it and put it in the fridge. I'll probably taste it sometime this morning. I have almost no hope that my set-up will endure over the long haul but it was cheap, so if I can get a few uses out of that length of duct, it'll have been worth it. I'm still looking for a cold-smoking routine that I can easily use, even in the dead of winter. I'm not sure the hot-plate method will fit that bill but I'm definitely going to keep it in mind. =R=

Clovis is just outside of Fresno and pretty much in the middle of the state. It's about 230 miles from Los Angeles, about 200 miles from San Francisco and about 150 miles east of Salinas. =R=

The name's the same but Treilo Restaurant in Clovis has been under new ownership for about 6 months. What lay ahead promises to be exciting as the new team is knowledgable and extremely well-seasoned. Brothers Chris and Mike Shackelford run the front and back of the house respectively, bringing their vast experience and enthusiasm to the party. Chris was formerly the sommelier at Erna's Elderberry House in Oakhurst, CA. Mike has cooked all over the country and has spent time working not only for some well-known Certified Master Chefs but also in some of the top kitchens in NYC. About 2 weeks ago, I had one of the best lunches I've had in a long, long time at Trelio. I cannot stop thinking about it. I even get a bit melancholy when I think about the 2,000 miles between my door and Trelio's. Getting back there will be a bit difficult for me. Despite it's comfortably-cozy and airy space, a fine dining aesthetic permeates Trelio -- not so much as to hinder the casual vibe which is intended -- but enough to let you know that you are in extremely capable hands. Preparations are thoughtful and presentations are beautiful. The wine selection is world-class. Service is thorough and personal. No detail is overlooked as the Trelio team takes every opportunity to let their food show you how much they care . . . We started with an assortment of house-baked breads and delicious condiments. From left to right the condiments are Fromage Blanc with Roasted Garlic, Roasted Red Pepper puree with Kalamata Olive and local Butter blended with Fleur de Sel. I don't remember all the breads but the 2 types of breadsticks on the right were filled with parmesan cheese and anchovy puree. A close-up look at the Bacon and Cheese bread. Crab, avocado, otoro, etc. Pate de Campagne with truffled green beans, fried onion rings, grainy mustard and zucchini bread. Marinated beets with goat cheese cream. Butternut squash soup with tortellini, black truffles, crispy potato nugget (filled with truffle) and Parmigiano Reggiano. Caesar salad with coddled egg dressing, Parmigiano Reggiano and ficelle croutons. Heirloom tomato salad with basil and scallops. The stripes on the plate are saffron emulsion, garlic-cilantro cream and pureed Kalamata olive. Grilled chicken sandwich with tomato, avocado and crispy pancetta, etc. Croque Monsieur on sourdough toast -- smoked ham, gruyere cheese, pomery mustard -- with mixed greens. 'Club' sandwich with seared tuna steak, crispy bacon, hard-boiled eggs, etc. Deep-fried Sloppy Joe, which was absolutely inspired. Alongside are portabello mushroom fries and a delicious dipping sauce. Close-up look at the most decadant Sloppy Joe of all time. Not pictured are a couple of great desserts we tried, including a creamy-licious New York-style Cheesecake and an even more enjoyable Gorgonzola Cheesecake. Unfortunately, the 3 bottles of wine finally caught up with me and I forgot to snap pics of the desserts. Everything we tasted was delicious and immaculately fresh. It was one of those meals where the food -- and the manner in which it was prepared -- seemed to signify the region in which it was served. And on that note, we enjoyed some stellar wines -- more than one, locally-produced and -- of such limited release, I doubt I'll ever see any of them again. I don't remember the details but I'm hopeful that one of my companions will remind me so that I can report back. Trelio's lunch menu is undoubtedly playful but it's clear that the plates are being turned out by a crew with a world of experience and some serious cooking chops. The little touches were innumerable. They were reminiscent of a more formal experience, yet presented in such a disarming and capricious way, that they made me smile. And even now, in spite of the 2,000 miles between Trelio and me, I'm still smiling about them. Trelio Restaurant Old Town 438 Clovis Avenue Clovis, California 93612 559 297-0783 =R=

Thanks, Josh, for the report. It's funny that you mentioned the value at Sola because, even though I completely agree with you, I intentionally didn't mention it in my write-up. A while back, after chef Wallack had opened Deleece, some friends went there and were very impressed with the low prices/value -- so much so that they mentioned something to chef about how great the prices were. A week or so later they returned and found that prices had been raised pretty much across the board by 20% or so. So, this time around, I decided not to say anything about how nice the pricing was. At least if Sola raise prices now, it won't be on me Congrats also on your girlfriend becoming your fiancee. I assume that she won't be referred to as your fiancee indefinitely, either =R=

Today I'm actually doing my 3rd cold-smoked salmon run. But before I get to some of the details, I'll briefly describe attempt #2, which wasn't as problem-free as my first run. The main stumbling block was that I could not easily keep the smoking chamber under 100 F on the 2nd attempt. Apparently, my first attempt -- and the ease with which it happened -- was nothing more than random luck. For attempt #2, I again placed a couple of small burning embers atop the tinder box full of wood chips, but this time it caught quickly and burned too hot. I spritzed it with water -- trying to cool it off -- accidentally putting it out completely. From there, I had no choice but to start another chimney of lump and begin the process again. I eventually came out of it ok but instead of a 'set it and forget it' experience, I missed much of the Bears game during my frequent trips out to the smoker. I was tweaking things every 10-15 minutes for several hours. The finished product was again, excellent. The 2nd time through I also made some adjustments to the pre-smoking steps -- the main one being the omission of pink salt. I knew, based on what Michael posted upthread that there was some risk in this method. Still, I figured that salt + smoke + refrigeration would mitigate the risk. Again, I was using a relatively lean piece of wild coho and, as Michael suggested, I reduced the curing time from 36 hours to 24. Texture-wise, this helped me get closer to the final product I had visualized making. It was softer and more closely resembled the commercially-made lox which I was trying to duplicate. The main visual difference in this case was the color of the fish, which, without the addition of pink salt, did not remain as bright orange as it was on attempt #1. No worries though; the final product was still of acceptable color and was absolutely delicious. Today, I decided to change a few more of the variables. Instead of wild coho, I started with a 4.5# piece of wild king Salmon. Instead of a dry cure, I decided to brine the fish in the following solution: 1 gallon water 1 pound kosher salt 1 cup dark molasses 1/4 tsp pink salt because it was such a large piece of fish, I brined it for about 20 hours (for a smaller piece I would have only brined it for 12 or so). Instead of 24 hours of drying, I let it dry for only 12 hours. But the main thing I did differently was set up a crazy, cold-smoking rig, which seems to be working perfectly at the moment. . . Weber kettle was started with a half chimney of lump charcoal. Once dumped, I topped the burning pile off with big chunks of apple and cherry wood. The dampers are adjusted to maintain at about 225 F. A better look at the whole contraption. The aluminum dryer-duct is actually held in place with very thin wire. I used "Gorilla" tape over the wire to hold things in place and seal a few leaks. Almost no problem in conveying the smoke through the duct to the smoking chamber. I did place a fan just outside the top damper, which is helping to move the smoke through the smoking chamber Wild King Salmon smoking away. You can see the smoke entering the smoking chamber through the damper on the left side of the frame. Even now, after nearly 3 hours in the smoke, it's still cold to the touch. I'll report back later after the smoking stage is completed. I'm actually not sure how long I'll let it smoke. I'll just play it by ear. =R=

Wow . . . the months, they do roll by. All told, I've probably been to PGC 20 times since this thread was bumped last, maybe more. The Prairie Grass team continues to turn out consistently delicious, high-quality, inventive food in a comfortable, casual environment. Between the business and family dinners, late Saturday morning breakfasts and even carry-out lunches, I've come to understand that PGC is there for me when I need it to be and for that I'm truly grateful. It's hard to believe that PGC will celebrate their 2nd anniversary in just a couple of weeks. I recently learned about a very cool program which PGC offers -- it's a kids make their own pizza thing -- which takes place every Friday during dinner service. This past Friday, we decided to check it out. It's a very cool concept -- and one which my son ended up enjoying immensely. A tray of pizza mise and a pizza crust are brought out to the table. From there, the little one makes his or her own pie, which, once constructed, is removed to the kitchen for cooking and then served to its kiddie creator . . . A nice assortment of accoutrements is brought to the table. The crafting begins. This pie is ready for its trip to the oven. The finished product and a very happy customer. My son really enjoyed this experience. Of course, there are tons of great offerings on PGC's regular menus which he also enjoys but this was especially fun for him. I can definitely foresee doing this again because not only did he enjoy himself, but he was also well-occupied while we were at the restaurant and he wolfed down the pizza, which he said was delicious, without hesitation. It's wonderful when a restaurant can orient itself in family-friendly way without compromise and frankly, more places should be following the example being set by PGC. For the record, I had a delicious caesar salad and an order of the delectable, house-made lamb sausages, which are served with a wonderful assortment of perfectly grilled veggies (eggplant, zucchini, red bell pepper, carrot, red onion, etc.) and a judicious sprinkling of mild goat cheese. My wife had a beautful piece of grilled, wild salmon which was served over green lentils and apples. It was sensational. Again, my family has come to rely on PGC as our main go-to place. We know our son will be happy there because there are so many things on the menu which he likes and we won't have to 'settle' in order to keep him happy. What a concept! =R=

Great lists, as always, LAZ and nr706! Thank you for the input. To second some of your suggestions, I especially enjoy Lao Sze Chuan, Khan B.B.Q., Al's and Hae Woon Dae. LaGuardia is also usually excellent, although my last trip there (about a year ago) was just ok. =R=

September 27, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Act III...Bill Daley takes a loving look at Nature's "third act" and explores the surprising bounties of the fall harvest season. And in this sidebar, he checks in with with Angelic Organics in Caledonia, IL, which was the subject of the documentary file The Real Dirt on Farmer John: Fame, fortune--and, oh yes, farming. From the farm to your home...Robin Mather Jenkins profiles Irv & Shelly's Fresh Picks, a newly-opened home delivery service which focuses on organic and local offerings. A ray of sun in the organic food world...Jennifer Carnig takes a look at Sunflower Market in Lincoln Park. Chanterelles...food editor Carol Mighton Haddix with a useful guide. Berghoff Oktoberfest...Jerald O'Kennard files the Beer of the Month installment. Feasting on favas...from Cairo, Monica Eng reports on the beloved local ingredient. It's the real thing...in this week's Prep School installment, James P. DeWan tutors on how to make homemade mayonnaise. Peggin the harvest...Bill Daley explains how winemakers and wine lovers alike use results of the current harvest season to plan for and predict the year ahead. ===== From today's 'new look' Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Making change...Maureen Jenkins reports on how Dan Sullivan's vision single-handedly transformed the Jarvis Square neighborhood. Recalling spinach...food editor Sue Ontiveros confesses that she's been jonesing for spinach during the current recall period. Wine, women and Singh...Maureen Jenkins spends some time with Master Sommelier Alpana Singh whose new book, Alpana Pours: About Being a Woman, Loving Wine & Having Great Relationships is now in bookstores. You can also learn What your favorite wine says about you and read a few of Singh's nuggets of wine-drinking wisdom. Tastings around town...Celeste Busk previews upcoming events at Delilah's, Le Titi de Paris, Bistro 110, Chicago Athletic Association, Sushisamba Rio and Pier 5736. Food news...Denise I. O'Neal reports on the Chicago restaurant industry's upcoming slate of offerings, programs and roll-outs. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Dinner on the cheap...food editor Deborah Pankey with an incidental review of Cheap. Fast. Good! by Alicia Ross and Beverly Mills. Mainland palates enjoy a taste of Hawaii...in this week's Chef du Jour installment, Leah A. Zeldes interviews chef Kelly Tyree of The Tiki Terrace in Prospect Heights. Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== From the September 22 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: A pizza primer -- and fairly comprehensive list of area outlets -- by Michael Lenehan et al. ===== In this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby interview chef -- and former professional dancer -- Alyson Nehren, of the soon-to-bow Odesso from Franco Gianni (Rushmore, Sushi Wabi). ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>

Chef Grant Achatz (and Ruth Reichl) were on The Today Show this morning. It would have been nice if someone at NBC had learned how to pronounce Alinea but it was still a fun segment to watch. Interestingly, a few recipes appear as well. =R=

Try this thread. It contains some information about newer happenings at Tru. =R=

Doc, Doc, Doc . . . you've outdone yourself! And for you, that's no easy task. Thanks for bringing this event 'home' for the rest of us. It's greatly appreciated. =R=

As Tony himself stated above, he's 'ambassadoring' for MSN (which happens to be sponsored by Amstel). =R= ← My comment was one of perception rather than actual affiliation. I am sure Amstel's intention is to bank on a perceived association whether it is Bourdain under the banner and beside the bubbling draft or someone else. Amstel is not sponsoring out of the goodness of its heart. ← Yeah, I just wanted to clarify my earlier, snarky "Suntory" comment. You're totally right about perception. At first, I thought this was actually an Amstel affiliation on Tony's part, which is why I said what I said. Still, it would have been fine with me. I'm certainly not here to judge anyone. =R=

As Tony himself stated above, he's 'ambassadoring' for MSN (which happens to be sponsored by Amstel). =R=

. . . and all was right with the world =R=

From msn.com today - Tony has got a new gig as "culinary ambassador" for Amstel:http://livetastefully.msn.com/Default.aspx ← LOL! Apparently, it's 'Suntory time' for Tony Good for him! =R=

Every five years. =R=

That's chef Homaro Cantu of Moto in Chicago, eating one of his edible menus. =R=

kai-m, I don't think the ban would have bothered me nearly as much if it had taken production methods into account. But, to lump all foie gras into same category seems to actually indicate a lack of understanding about it. It really is a sad pardox. =R=

I disagree. I'm trying not to generalize, but most serious NY diners admit that there's nothing like Alinea in NY. I personally would be hard pressed to name a restaurant in NY that's as ambitious as Alinea. I'm sure others would agree, even if they're not into the style of food. ← I absolutely agree, and I think with the exception of maybe WD-50 most NY'ers would agree. I meant more that they would be pissed that a Chicago restaurant was number 1. ← Do people really feel this proprietary about someone else's list? =R=

Well, as I implied in my above post (actually, that was the point of my above post), I don't eat pork or poultry from "convential production" either. Do you?!? ← Well, I don't normally buy them but I'm sure I've been served them at restaurants and other people's homes. =R=

My anger stems from the fact that the city of Chicago has chosen to invoke a ban on a product that my state and federal governments both categorize as completely legal. Additionally, since no foie gras is produced in Chicago (or the state of Illinois) the ban comes off as completely ridiculous political pandering. On top of that, most of us believe that foie gras production is no more cruel than conventional pork or poultry production, making the ban arbitrary and inconsitent. Of course, commercial pork and poultry producers have deep pockets and are not the ripe political targets that foie gras producers are. As Rick Tramonto said months ago (paraphrasing) 'you either eat animals or you don't.' =R=