ronnie_suburban

Finally made it to Quartino last night and had a very nice time. We enjoyed great service but on balance, the food ended up being just ok. The meal started out relatively strong with the antipasto selections (Salumeria menu) and tailed off steadily as our meal progressed. The antipasto is ordered in similar fashion as sushi often is. A list of selections is brought to the table, along with a pencil. You simply check off the items you want and hand the list back to your server. We were told that all the meats were cured in-house. I'm guessing this also was true of the non-meat items which are offered. In any case, we chose a satisfying assortment of items including a variety of olives, roasted peppers, marinated artichokes, duck prosciutto, bresaola, soppressata, asiago vecchio and taleggio. For me, this was the highlight of the meal. I loved just about all of it. The 'pickles and salads' were tasty and suprisingly subtle. I had a tough time deciding which I liked better -- the duck prosciutto or the bresaola. They were both great with floral, complex flavors that can only be produced by time. I also enjoyed the somewhat fiery soppressata, just not quite as much as the other 2 meats. Cheeses were terrific too but portions were somewhat skimpy compared to all the other Salumeria items we tried. Next up, we went for a few of the Dinner Menu items, which are mostly small plates. We tried 5 items with mixed impressions. Overall, our favorite was the Veal Meatballs Napoli with sun-dried tomatoes and raisins. Happily (for my tastes, anyway) the tomatoes and raisins were in the sauce, not in the meatballs. Flavors here were great, although the meatballs themselves were a bit mushier than I am used to enjoying. Still, I'd order this again. The flavors in the Gnocchi with Arugula Pesto were great but the gnocchi were a bit dense. They lacked that certain lightness that great gnocchi offer and had no ridges in them to help absorb the sauce. Pan-Roasted Clams (little necks if I'm not mistaken) with Pinot Grigio and Red Chili Broth were tasty but after a while, their intense saltiness started to build up. As it did, we left them unfinished. Also left unfinished were the Polenta Fries with Red Pepper Sauce which, in spite of being perfectly cooked and served piping-hot, right out of the fryer, were almost completely devoid of flavor. We joked that they tasted like hot, crunchy water. Too bad too because they were perfect in every other way. The Funghi Pizza was a bit of a letdown too as it seemed to suffer a bit of "less is more" syndrome. The quality of this pizza and most of the ingredients which comprised it was high but the sauce tasted like canned tomatoes which had been applied directly to the pizza. This could have benefitted greatly from some additional tweaking. The thin and crispy crust was delicious and the mushrooms were fresh and meaty. The cheese was tasty and aromatic. But, at the bottom of it all, the weak-flavored tomato sauce simply torpedoed the effort. Desserts were tasty, for the most part. The Copa al Banana, which was comprised of caramelized banana and vanilla gelato was very good. Ditto for the Strawberry gelato, which we also enjoyed. Unfortunately, the Zeppole were burnt and extremely disappointing. I'm sure we could have asked for another order and been accomodated but we were pretty full, so we deferred. In spite of the mob scene at the corner of Ontario and State, our 7 pm reservation was honored without delay. Valet service, which is now up to $8, was relatively efficient too. At first, I was a bit disappointed when I saw that we were being seated upstairs but that turned out to be a good thing because even though the noise factor was quite high, it wasn't quite as high upstairs. And again, we enjoyed great service, provided by Tony, who just did everything he could possibly do to keep us happy, never abandonned us and provided us with some solid guidance. Would I go back? Definitely so. I love eating in this fashion and I think that ordering differently might have produced a better result. My wife and I agreed that if we'd been there by ourselves or with another couple, we probably would have ordered differently. That doesn't guarantee that it will be better next time but the menu is fairly large and we left several interesting-sounding items untried. So, I'd like to give Quartino another shot in near future. =R=

I certainly didn't mean to imply that Mr. Muser's work was any cause for disappointment. In fact, he took great care of us when we were in. But if you go to Avenues expecting to see Aaron, that's an entirely other matter. =R=

My experience is that dry-curing produces less (or apparently less) liquid than wet curing. I think moisture which releases into a dry cure is somewhat absorbed by it. With a liquid cure, there is nowhere for the released liquid to go, so it builds up a bit more. My guess is that your bacon will be fine. How many days has it been curing? When I dry cure, I dredge, so the coverage isn't exactly extreme but it does create a fairly even coating around the entire belly . . . no clumps but no bare spots either. Hope that helps. =R=

Unfortunately, Aaron is no longer at Avenues (unless he's returned). When we ate there this past June, he'd been replaced by Michael Muser. =R=

Did you ever consider that your evil intentions may backfire and he may actually like the p-a-c?!? ← Happened to me. Liam went through a phase of always wanting "Daddy cheese" - Kraft singles (you can guess from the name who eats those in this house). Now, to be fair, he was still scarfing down blue cheese and goat cheese when we had it around, but his palate is pretty non-discriminating at this point, it would seem. ← LOL! I'm happy to report that in our house "Daddy cheese" refers to Manchego. That said, we still have the Kraft singles "in stock." =R=

It was nice to see Dave Zier get a mention in the November issue of Bon Appetit. His comments were included in David Leite's Turkey Buying Guide. =R=

I have it on fairly good authority that they are already here and active. =R=

November 1, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: The good eating awards...The staff at Good Eating announce their 2006 award recipients. Winners include Doug Sohn (Hot Doug's) Jean Joho (Everest, Brasserie Jo) and Shelley Young (The Chopping Block), to name just a few. Rising to the occasion...in this Special to the Tribune, Janis Cooke Newman describes the epiphany and breakthrough she experienced after reproducing Mary Todd Lincoln's vanilla-almond cake over and over again. Starter wines...Bill Daley reports on how low-priced bottles can lead enthusiastic wine "...drinkers up the scale to better pours." Tasting notes are included. Gadget lovers, unite!...several readers respond -- with gusto -- to the Trib's October 18th piece about superfluous kitchen gadgets. Pomegranates...Bill Daley files this useful guide. What on earth is for dinner?...a brief review of the Hungry Planet: What the World Eats exhibit taking place at the Museum of Science and Industry, now through January 2, 2007. `Super' mart lives up to its name...Susan Taylor visits the recently-opened Super H Mart in Niles, which specializes in Korean goods. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Classics with a twist...Sandy Thorn Clark profiles 3 food-loving locals who have converted their passion for local fare into entrepreneurial bliss. Thanksgiving countdown...food editor Sue Ontiveros accurately explains that "planning now cuts down on stress later." Comfort downs...just days before the annual Breeder's Cup, Dave Hoekstra reports from Louisville on some local food traditions that will run alongside the big races on Saturday. Hoekstra also reports on the menu which will be offered at Churchill Downs on Saturday: Breeders' Cup menu. Tastings around town...previews of upcoming events at Michael, Geja's Cafe, Polo Cafe and Catering, TTC and Vinci. Food news...among other news, Denise I. O'Neal reports that the Green City Market will move inside, for its first winter market, which begins today. Chefs Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris of Prairie Grass Cafe in Northbrook, will kick off the new, indoor season with a cooking demo this morning. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Market Day delivers to your door ... for a price...food editor Deborah Pankey reports on a new service offered by Market Day. She also previews an upcoming appearance by Dorie Greenspan, which will take place this coming Saturday at the Culinary Historians of Chicago meeting, at 10 a.m. He has the right ingredients for teaching, cooking...in this week's Chef du Jour installment, Leah A. Zeldes profiles chef, teacher and administrator Michael Artlip who ". . . chairs the school's [Kendall College] associates degree program in culinary arts, oversees the bachelor's degree program in pastry arts, serves on the faculty senate, works with the student-run Cafe, consults to the food service industry and still has time to teach budding chefs about meat and fish cookery, the art of garde manger, international cuisine and more." Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== From the October 27 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: Nicholas Day focuses on goat, as he visits a few places in town which are, supposedly, known for it. Also provided in the More Meat sidebar is a list of "Twenty-three good choices for carnivores." ===== In this week's edition of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby break the news that (future) Alinea alum Joe Ziomek is headed back to the former Trio space in Evanston. He's been hired as the GM of Quince, the new eatery which will bow there in early December. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>

Not the exact friend I was thinking of but even better, considering you've already been there 5 times! We're going next week and I'm definitely loooking forward to it. =R=

Yes, a couple of the restaurants at the Westin are already open. Some friends ate at Osteria di Tramonto last week. I hope one of them will check in here with some details =R=

Just a quick heads up that ELP will be 'featured' on the November 1 installment of Oprah: Everybody Loves Pizza on Oprah, November 1, 2006 =R=

Avenues has been added to AAA's list of 5-Diamond rated Chicago restaurants. This now brings to 7, the number of 5-Diamond rated restaurants in Chicago -- more than any other city . . . Chicago Is Now the Leading Destination for AAA Five Diamond Dining =R=

Alinea has been added to AAA's list of 5-Diamond rated Chicago restaurants. This now brings to 7, the number of 5-Diamond rated restaurants in Chicago -- more than any other city . . . Chicago Is Now the Leading Destination for AAA Five Diamond Dining =R=

About 6 months ago I ended up ordering it from Niman Ranch, but after a quick check at their site, it seems the product is currently unavailable. It may be worth calling them. =R=

Beautiful work, Elie. That terrine looks great. And welcome, Jamie, to the thread. That pastrami and bacon both look sensational. I'm glad the spice crust stayed on the pastrami when you braised it. That's also been my experience and I would have hated to misguide you. I'm about to cold-smoke one more fillet of wild coho today. I've pretty much got my method worked out. Today I'm going to use only apple wood -- but I have some green limbs I'm going to mix in with the dried wood. We'll see how it goes. I also produced the tasso per dls's recommendations (upthread) and was quite happy with the results. I hope to post some additional details and pics shortly. =R=

There's a fun story by Judy Hevrdejs in yesterday's Chicago Tribune which focuses on a dinner at Moto with science expert Lee Marek . . . Advanced gastronomy =R=

October 25, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Something wiggly this way comes...As Halloween approaches, Bill Daley evokes memories of my father and explores the joys of jellied confections. As simple as stir, stir, stir...in this week's Prep School installment, James P. DeWan reveals the keys to turning out successful risotto. Italy's unsung glories...Joe Gray reviews The Glorious Soups and Stews of Italy by Domenica Marchetti. Scram, critters!...Bill Daley reminds us that Australia is producing some of the best wines in the world -- in spite of the cutesy labels that appear on some of its lower-end bottles. Unibroue La Fin du Monde...Jerald O'Kennard files the Beer of the Month installment. Any way you slice it, report finds that convenience is king...Robin Mather Jenkins reports on the growing popularity of convenience foods for dinner -- and she's got the statistics to back it up. Pine nuts...Donna Pierce files this useful guide. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Make Halloween a boogie night...Sandy Thorn Clark reports on the unsettling marriage of Halloween and Disco. Cute and creative...Denise I. O'Neal reports on the Halloween-themed treats being turned out by Swirlz Bakery and the 12th annual Gourdzilla event, taking place at foodlife in the Water Tower Place mezzanine, through Halloween. Tastings around town...Previews of upcoming events at Scoozi, Vermilion, Carlucci (Downers Grove) and O'Donovan's. From the October 23 edition: Just like grandma used to bake...Janet Rausa Fuller reports that Flourish Bakery in Edgewater will be happy to bake your treasured family recipes for you, as part of their "family traditions recipe support" program. From the October 20 edition:: A change is brewing...Mike Thomas reports from the most recent monthly meeting of the Chicago Beer Society, which took place at Goose Island Brew Pub in early October. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Pizzas in the microwave? They're soggy no more...food editor Deborah Pankey reports on a new wrinkle in frozen pizza packaging, which makes the frozen pies even closer to those turned out by pizzerias. Chef finds his true home in Ristoriante Lorica...in this week's Chef du Jour installment, Melissa Allen profiles and interviews chef Tony Acri of Lombard's Ristoriante Lorica. ===== From the October 20 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: Susannah J. Felts takes a look at Tipsycake in Humboldt Park and profiles its owner, Naomi Stepanek. A useful listing of 'international' bakeries is also provided. ===== In this week's edition of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby report on the unusual conduit through which chef Michael Hazen got his new job at Ristorante We. ==== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>

I've known Bill via various on-line outlets since 2002 and I am simply stunned by this horrible news. I just spoke to him on the phone about a month ago. God, how sad this is. We met via a Bourdain fan club but became buddies outside of that group. Recently, we even sent charcuterie back and forth. I sent him some stuff I made and he reciprocated by sending me some delicious "underground" stuff that a butcher near him makes and sells covertly. He loved food and cooking and our package exchanges always allowed us to connect on a very food-loving level. =R=

Thank you so much for this, dls. I plan to start the curing today and then smoke the tasso mid-week. I'll definitely report back on the results. =R=

That is quite an understatement! BTW, Danielle, you mentioned bread up at the very top and I really don't think there are any better -- which are available here in town -- than Red Hen. Bennison's in Evanston and Labriola in Alsip, both also turn out amazing product but given how nearby you are to Red Hen, it may not be worth going too far out of your way to source either of them. That said, I do see Labriola's stuff at many outlets around town and iirc, they also produce the 'house brand' bread products at Trader Joe's. One other great spot in town for bread is Fox and Obel. It's Nancy Silverton-school bread baked on premises and supervised by a Silverton protege, Pammy Sue Fitzpatrick. The store is not even close to conveniently located for me, but if I'm in the area, I always try to stop in. =R= edited to add information about F&O

So true, so true. Please do. It sounds like you've got a fun and ambitious week ahead. Can't wait to read about how it turns out. =R=

Thank you so much, dls, for sharing this information. I have apple, cherry and maple wood available but will probably use combo of the first 2, as that's normally a combo I end up enjoying. If you're willing to share your rub recipe, I'd love to have it. But if you consider it proprietary, I completely understand. Thanks again, =R=

In continuing my search for information about tasso, I came across tons of it -- much of it useful. One interesting thing is that most of the tasso recipes/methods I've read about do not involve pink salt at all. I'm not sure if that reflects anything beyond the results of my search but I thought it was worth mentioning. I came across this Nolacuisine.com, where the excellent-looking tasso pictured was made without any pink salt. Yet, the 3-day cure clearly produces a pink-fleshed final product. I am mulling this over before starting my initial batch. I'm leaning toward no-pink-salt simply because I feel better not using it if I don't have to. But, I don't want to end up with un-cured smoked pork either. Anyway, at the bottom of that page, there is link back to an interesting thread which lives here on the eG forums: Eating Louisiana Andouille, Wayne Jacob's / La Place This is a great thread which features fantastic shots (thank you Jason Perlow) of the production process at the fabled Wayne Jacob's Smokehouse in La Place, Louisiana, where tasso, andouille and other products are made. For anyone who's followed this thread, these pictures -- and the thread, in general -- will be very cool to see -- they are very informative and instructional. =R=

Beautiful stuff! I can't wait for my trip to Phoenix in Spring 2007. Vu is now on my 'must hit' list. =R=

Thanks, dls, Mark and Abra, for the Tasso information and feedback. I checked out the gumbo pages and liked what I saw but the Tasso recipe listed there (from Alex Patout) doesn't include pink salt. I think I will modify it slightly, as I did with the Andouille recipe a I found there a few months ago. That turned out splendidly, so I think this is an excellent starting point. Thanks again, =R=