ronnie_suburban

Dave, I love the board. I don't have room for one that large but I do have room for a smaller one and will seek one out later today, on-line. Lot's going on here today . . . smoking another Wagyu pastrami and another large slab of bacon at the moment. I just tubed off a batch of Andouille, which I will smoke later this evening or tomorrow. For the first time in days, I can actually see light coming from the back of my refrigerator. Although, once the pastrami and the bacon are finished smoking, I'll be back to where I was until "distribution" mode begins. Francois, I doubt the 5 degrees will make any difference at all. I'd feel comfortable taking it to 150 F or 155 F. Once you go over that level, you might experience some drying, so I wouldn't go above 160 F no matter what. =R=

Check out this thread: Where are your favorite places to shop in Chicago?, Restaurant-supply stores? Unfortunately, the Edward Don outlet store is now closed. =R=

I have to agree. My full size refrigerator is completely full at the moment. ← Definitely, space becomes an issue . . . I'm beginning to feel like a meat traffic controller! =R=

If the mechanism is the same then the reason for pre-salting rather than brining is to avoid the rubbery texture and ham-like flavor that brined meat has. ← I don't think that rubbery texture and/or ham-like flavor are necessarily functions of brining; maybe of brining carelessly. The only time I ever encountered such qualities with meat I brined was when I forgot about a chicken, let it brine for 3 days and then cooked it anyway just to see how it would come out. It was basically corned at that point But, I agree with what Jack said above. Brining definitely has it's place. Pre-salting is a useful technique too. I think it really depends on the type of meat and the specific application. =R=

Sign me up, please. =R=

Steve Dolinsky has a related story at ABC-Chicago's web site. He lists a few places in the city which are planning farewell celebrations as well as places in the suburbs where foie gras can be found. Foie Gras only in the suburbs =R=

August 16, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Putting out fires...Bill Daley finds the right wines to pair up with fiery cuisine like Thai. Tasting notes are included. Fillet your way to dinner...in this week's Prep School installment, James P. DeWan instructs on the useful technique of butterflying whole fish. Keeping knives sharp will hone your cooking skills...Test Kitchen Director Donna Pierce explains the importance of maintaining sharp knives in the kitchen and lists a few local places that provide knife-sharpening service. Green plums...Nneka McGuire with a useful guide. Shaking our salt addiction...Janet Helm reports that too much salt can be dangerous. And, in spite of some recent studies, there are some experts who believe that's true even for those who don't already suffer from hypertension. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Take your cake class -- and eat it, too!...Leah A. Zeldes reports on how Chicago has become an international hub for those wanting to learn confectionary arts and visits with those providing the training to obtain the details. 2006 culinary school class listings...The Sun-Times' annual index, compiled by Denise I. O'Neal. Food News: Daisy Martinez joins benefit...Denise I. O'Neal reports the details. Tastings around town...Celeste Busk previews upcoming events at Kiki's Bistro, Motel Bar, Geja's Cafe, Webster Wine Bar and Cuatro. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: He serves only the best for celebs, country club members...In this week's Chef du Jour installment, Leah A. Zeldes profiles Certified Master Chef Derin Moore who, as Executive Chef at Medinah Country Club, will serve thousands this week at the 88th PGA Championship, which will take place there beginning on Thursday. Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== From the August 11th edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: Martha Bayne visits Mundial Cocina Mestiza in Pilsen. Also provided is a listing of restaurants in Pilsen and Little Village. ===== In this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby report that the long-awaited, gastropub from Paul Kahan (Blackbird, Avec) and co. will be located at 845 W. Fulton St., as the lease has been signed. No word yet on an official opening date but the team is hoping to bow "eight to nine months" from now. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>

Yes, primarily because they turn out consistent, excellent versions of classic Bistro fare and their ingredients are top-notch. I've always considered it "serious" because unlike so many other places on the North Shore, the food isn't faux. It's the real deal. So, I definitely consider it serious food but not necessarily fine dining. =R= edit for clarity

I'm certainly no expert but I agree with Mike. I'd go for overnight and if that's not possible, then start as early as possible the day before. Briskets take a while. Last time I smoked 2 whole briskets, it took them nearly 18 hours to reach temperature and while I wasn't using a Weber, I was using a smoker on which the temperature was fairly easy to maintain. =R=

From the Chicago Sun-Times article linked above by Alex: Suit cries foul over foie gras ban by Fran Spielman and Janet Rausa Fuller. =R=

I spotted a BL in Champaign, IL (~150 miles from Chicago) a couple of weeks ago so I knew something was up but, like you, I had no idea how much they'd expanded until I visited their web site. =R=

It isn't exceptional but several of their sandwiches like the Blackened Chicken Muffletta, The Luigi and the Vesuvio Melt are well-conceived and tasty. Those and a few other, less memorable sandwiches are all I've tried sampled at Bar Louie. =R=

This is correct. Check here for a recent blurb from Chicago Magazine's Dish: =R=

Yeah, I agree that the potato-truffle puree was fantastic. I almost couldn't tell there were potatoes in it -- that's how "truffley" it was! =R=

In 1996 I had, what was at the time, the best restaurant meal of my life at Le Francais. It was a meal of several firsts for me and in many ways, I've been chasing that experience ever since. Over the past decade I'd returned to Le Francais on a couple of occasions only to be let down or seriously underwhelmed. Last night, I once again dined at Le Francais -- my first time since Chef Liccioni's return -- and I am delighted to report that I had an exquisite meal which was not only evocative of my first experience there, but truly wonderful in its own right. A course-by-course description would probably minimize the glory of our experience. The menu was filled with diverse array of tempting, seasonally-based offerings which made deciding difficult. How could one resist stuffed Zucchini blossoms picked from Chef's garden? I didn't even need to taste my sauteed Foie Gras to know its perfection. A simple tap upon its perfectly crispy exterior and I knew the delight that awaited. Each bite confirmed again and again what I already knew and the accoutrements -- braised peach and cherry, a small salad of micro arugula and an intoxicating reduction -- sent it over the top. The Lyonnaise Salad was a benchmark, the Corn Soup was sublime and the Charcuterie (terrine of duck, ‘pate de campagne’, ‘foie de vollaile aux truffes’, ‘rillete du porc’, and traditional garnish) was like an amusement park on a plate. Entrees were also immaculate. Chef's Special Fish Duo was not only gorgeous on the plate but the slab of succulent Wild Salmon served along with a perfect piece of Halibut which had been "stuffed" with Foie Gras Mousse and wrapped in Napa Cabbage were totally delicious. The Sweetbreads were crispy, tender and totally wonderful. Aside from a duck leg bone -- the Duck dish consisted of grilled breast paired with a confit leg -- there was nothing left on any of our 4 entree plates. Desserts were also over the top. Again, flavors managed to trump beautiful plating, which was no easy feat. The Chocolate Souffle with Almond Ice Cream was stellar. The Fig Tart with Lemon Ice Cream was magnificent. The Grand Marnier Souffle was so good, we were scraping the souffle pan with our spoons. Service, provided by our Captain, Frederic, was, to put it bluntly, as good as it gets. I have rarely before experienced such enthusiastic, friendly and professional service. Had we been served re-packaged burgers from McDonalds, it still would have been a pleasure sitting at Frederic's table. His passion for -- and understanding of -- the chef's cuisine was apparent from moment one. His vast experience in the industry guided his every action and unprentious sensibility and great sense of humor contributed in no small way to our enjoyment of the evening. Wine service, provided by our sommelier, Michael, was fantastic. Not only was the list phenomenal, but his guidance was terrific. The 2002 Baumard Quarts de Chaumes was an especially fantastic accompaniment for the Foie course and the 2001 Comte de Vogue Premier Cru was a perfect pairing with the 3 entrees we were trying to match. I also loved the taste of 1991 Grahams Vintage Port to which Michael and Frederic treated us. All indications are that Le Francais has again taken its place at -- or near -- the top of the Chicago dining pantheon. With the foie gras ban (and talk of other dietary legislations) streaming out of Chicago's city hall, the suburbs have suddenly become a haven for culinary freedom. Prairie Grass Cafe (Northbrook), Miramar Bistro (Highland Park) and Vie (Western Springs) have already established the suburbs as a viable destination for serious cuisine. The recently published 2006-07 Zagat Chicago dining survey lists Carlos (in Highland Park) and LF as the top 2 restaurants for food. With the upcoming addition of Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand's places at the Westin in Wheeling on the near horizon, the outlook for dining in Chicago's suburbs has never been brighter. But no matter what the future of suburban dining holds, chef Roland and company have definitely restored Le Francais to all its former glory. =R= Le Francais 269 S Milwaukee Ave Wheeling, IL 60090 (847) 541-7470

Sounds Great!!! When did he start? Any idea who the sous chefs are? I'd love to know who is still there from summer of 2003... ← Read above. =R=

Duly noted It was definitely a cool-looking neighborhood, although it being Sunday morning, there wasn't much open. LOL . . . well, of course not. This forum is strictly about food and I would never stray off-topic so. As I mentioned above, some friends in Cincinnati took us out to Slim's in Northside for brunch and it was fine. I don't mean to step on any toes but it wasn't the kind of place for which I was in the mood. The eclectic food was all fine but it just didn't really scratch the"brunch itch" for me so well. There were times during our meal when the place maybe felt a bit too hip for its own good, like when we learned that we couldn't just order a couple of eggs (even though one could order sides of bacon and sausage or an apparently pre-made Spanish-style tortilla) or when we were told that the grape and lime juices in one particular beverage were "pre-mixed" and not available for ordering individually. The menu was mostly populated with items I associate more with lunch -- or even dinner -- than brunch. The lechon was tender and comforting but a tiny bit underseasoned. The tamale was quite tasty. We shared a very good sandwich on toasted multi-grain bread which contained a wedge of plain frittata and some chicken salad, IIRC. It had a proper name but I cannot remember it. The mixed greens salad was wonderful and the house-made vinaigrette was a nice accompaniment for it. I was also a bit disappointed with the beverage selection which seemed very limited to me. It would have been nice to have something with carbonation. Again, the place was solid, with a cool vibe but I wanted something different. I wanted goetta (which I still have never tried) and eggs and toast and it's my own fault for not making that clear to our hosts. My bad, definitely not Slim's. With our bellies full, even if not 100% satisfied, we said goodbye to our friends and piled into the family truckster. It was another beautiful, sunny day with blue skies and more puffy clouds overhead. We pointed the vehicle southwest -- I-71 West to be exact -- and made our way toward Louisville, Kentucky. Next stop . . . Lynn's Paradise Cafe =R=

This week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish confirms Gras's involvement. (I received this issue of Dish by e-mail and I assume it will be posted shortly). =R=

I'd never heard of Nicola's Ristorante Italiano but after reading over some posts in this forum, I decided that it would be a good spot. We hadn't had a "real" meal since the trip began and the menu on Nicola's web site looked great. Of course, I didn't look at the web site too closely and when we arrived at Nicola's in jeans, I felt a bit under-dressed. After we made apologies to the hostess -- and were told that it was nothing to worry over -- we chose to sit in the dining room. The outside terrace was beautiful but it was hot outside and sitting inside seemed more comfortable. We started with a couple of special appetizers: some stuffed and lightly fried zucchini blossoms and an heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella. The fritti was wonderful and also included some perfectly tasty red onion rings. The caprese salad was also great, the only negative aspect being that one of the 3 types of tomatoes in the salad were a bit hard. Still, the flavors were great and the olive oil on the salad was outstanding and the basil was wonderfully fresh. My favorite of the 3 entrees we ordered was definitely the Tagliatelle Bolognese. The pasta was al dente and the sauce was rich, hearty and aromatic. My wife really loved her skinless seared duck breast which was served with foie gras over greens and grilled spring onions. I ordered a Carnaroli Risotto with tomato sauce and sausage which was perfectly cooked but a bit on the tart side for my palate. After dinner we were extremely full but managed to split an order of some locally-made Pistachio gelato that was terrific. In spite of the teaser (posted above) about my over-tired son, he was a perfect gentleman and behaved accordingly. I was so proud of him -- not only for being so mellow -- but also for enthusiastically tasting everything on the table. I really liked Nicola's and I would definitely return there -- and hopefully will the next time I am in Cincinnati. My only complaint, if you can call it that, was the pricing, which was high even by Chicago standards. Pasta were priced in the mid $20's and the Duck Breast was $32. Again, based on the level of cooking and freshness of ingredients, I can't say it was way out of line but I was a bit surprised by it nonetheless -- especially considering that the pastas are essentially listed as Primi piatti. After dinner, we cabbed back to the hotel (we were told by several locals that the walk wasn't a particularly safe one) and crashed. The next morning we met up with some friends who took us out for brunch before we headed out of Cincinnati. Next stop . . . Slim's on the Northside =R=

August 9, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: 2006 Cooking School Roundup...the Tribune's annual list, complied by Christina Biggs. Basic training...Bill Daley delivers 10 tips from the pros, including Grant Achatz, which will help you convert your kitchen into a "culinary boot camp." Very fresh, and very French...Jennifer Carnig reviews Floriole Bakery in Lincoln Park. Guilty pleasures remade...in this special to the Tribune, Brian McCormick reviews Fast Food Fix: 75+ Amazing Recipe Makeovers of Your Fast Food Restaurant Favorites, by Devin Alexander. Savory...Robin Mather Jenkins with a useful guide. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Kitchen confidential...Sandy Thorn Clark trails a few local restaurant folks and learns how they've outfitted their home kitchens. And, in this related piece, Cooking comes easy when you're well-equipped, she delivers some additional information. Tastings around town...Celeste Busk previews upcoming events at Grace O'Malley's Restaurant & Pub, China Grill, BIN 36, Carnivale, Motel Bar and VTK. Late-night cooking class helps singles come together...Denise I. O'Neal delivers the news about this series of classes as well as several other industry events, offerings and roll-outs. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Dabble in something different...food editor Deborah Pankey sings the praises of the $35-billion Specialty foods market. In this week's Chef du Jour installment, Mike Michaelson profiles Clinton Del Marcelle and Nicholas Klug who are co-executive chefs at Grey Rock, the fine dining establishment at the Heidel House Resort in Green Lake, WI. Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== From the August 4th edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: Reports on 3 recently-transformed spots on the north side as well as a round-up of 25 highly rated (7.5/10 or higher) places in Lakeview. Note: .pdf pages at the Reader's web site occasionally load slowly but they do eventually load. ===== In this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby report on what's coming next for Tru -- and the plans definitely do include Laurent Gras. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>

As implied upthread, there is a movement afoot to hold next year's event in Cleveland, which should be very exciting. We're all hoping this will give Michael Symon the incentive he needs to get Lola open again. I'd strongly encourage other eGullet members to think about holding your own member-organized event. It doesn't have to be as elaborate as this one was (although elaborate can certainly be fun!) and as you say - the opportunity for in-person camraderie is wonderful. As is the chance to learn from one another in person the way we do online! ← As Tammy posted above, a Member-organized event can take place in any venue where someone is willing to host one. Since Tammy (and Alex) took this upon themselves, the event, by default, took place on their home turf. The same would be true for anyone else's proposed event. In fact, the rumblings about a Cleveland-based event next year were primarily the result of the fact that we had more Cleveland-area attendees at this year's event than attendees from any other place. Then, they started talking about it, etc. 2 additional points: 1) Member-organized events can take place more than once a year. There are no quotas, although you'll want to make sure that your proposed event doesn't conflict with another planned event. 2) If you have any interest in hosting a Member-organized event, please pm me and I will be happy to help you plan it and launch an accompanying thread. =R=

Awesome! I'd heard rumors about Gras being involved in Tru's 'new' incarnation. It's nice to have them confirmed. This is very exciting news. Thanks for the update. =R=

I don't see any problem with waiting. I would just take it out of the cure to make sure you don't get it any saltier than you want. I can't imagine any issue with you placing it in a clean ziplock in the frige for a few days. ← Agreed. =R=

Oh, Elie, that looks so delicious. I'm calling the butcher to order another belly right now! =R=

If it's the one by John Kinsella, I have it and refer to it occasionally. It is a bit technical but it provides a plethora of recipes as well -- most being for 10-pound batches. If I'd bought it before this book, I'm not sure I ever would have started any of these projects because it isn't very accessible for the non-pro. That said, it's nice to have the library of recipes the book provides because once you get the techniques down, as they are conveyed in Charcuterie, you'll probably want to have some proven recipe variations to help guide your future improvisations. Ditto for Bruce Aidells' Complete Sausage Book. It's a bit weak on technique relative to this book but the additional recipes it provides can be useful. =R=