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Everything posted by ronnie_suburban
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December 27, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Best of 2006...the Good Eating staff and food editor Carol Mighton Haddix list their Top 10 recipes of 2006. Match made in hog heaven...in this special to the Tribune, Chris McNamara reports on pork's new wave and the increased chef focus in pairing it innovatively with beer. Five timely guides for a more healthful you...with the New Year upon us, nutrition specialist Janet Helm recommends her 5 favorite health and nutrition books. Spa cuisine...Joe Gray reviews the latest cookbook from Charlie Trotter: Spa Cuisine. Cheaper by the bubble...Bill Daley explains why Spanish sparkling wines are one of the best post-holiday values on the wine front. Cheeses offer a tasty tour of Spain...in this special to the Tribune, Lisa Futterman files a brief primer of Spanish cheeses. Tasting notes are included. Okocim Porter...Jerald O'Kennard files the Beer Of The Month installment. Parsnips...Renee Enna files this useful guide. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Best recipes 2006...food editor Sue Ontiveros lists the Sun Times' 10 faves of '06. Top it off in style...Sandy Thorn Clark investigates the 'art of the sauce' with Cafe Matou's chef Charlie Socher. Bans, pomegranates, Ray dominate food news...Sandy Thorn Clark lists her Top 5 food stories of 2006. From the December 26 edition: What ban? Chefs to openly dish up foie gras...Janet Rausa Fuller reports that few chefs, if any, are planning to adhere to the City of Chicago's foie gras ban on New Year's Eve. From the December 22 edition Cold outside? Warm up with high tea...Maureen Jenkins checks in on the informal high tea program being offered at the James Hotel. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Cooks of the Year 2006...Laura Bianchi files the DH's list. Manila native believes in bold tastes...in this week's installment of Chef du Jour, Leah A. Zeldes profiles Kristine Subido, chef at Wave restaurant in the W Chicago Lakeshore Hotel. ===== From the December 22 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: David Hammond explains why celebration of the holiday season is particularly special at Tre Kronor in Albany Park. Also provided is a list of 2006's favorite spots, according the Reader's raters. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>
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From the story linked above by Alex: =R=
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Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 4)
ronnie_suburban replied to a topic in Cooking
I like this idea very much and will definitely try it next time -- even though Mike's pictorial was excellent. Do you suggest a cheese cloth wrap, netting, hook through a corner? Russ, I absolutely love the picture of your son assisting you . . . can't start those little ones early enough I really hope there's a Hobart slicer under our tree in the morning! =R= -
Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 4)
ronnie_suburban replied to a topic in Cooking
Just save me some of that fat . . . yum! Chris, how long did you cure those breasts? =R= -
From the article linked above: =R=
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Well, it's a totally different ballgame in that you can order a la carte courses at Quince in addition to asking for a tasting menu. From what I recall, entrees were priced mid-teens to mid-twenties with appetizers in the $7-$12 range. I don't have the menus in front of me but I think that's a fairly accurate recollection. And according to Quince's web site, a NYE tasting menu of 3 courses and glass of bubbly will run you $50; the later, four-course NYE meal, $75. =R=
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It was definitely an interesting article: Let 'em eat foie gras, they declare by Josh Noel =R=
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Dave Zier, aka "The King of all Meat Media," continues his onslaught this week with piece by Robin Mather Jenkins in today's Chicago Tribune: Toast to the roast =R=
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December 20, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Toast to the roast...Robin Mather Jenkins visits with 3 local butchers -- including my main man, Dave Zier -- and gets their professional opinions on the best holiday roasts, recipes and cooking methods. Presents for the cook...in this week's Prep School installment, James P. DeWan assures the procrastinating shoppers among us that there is still time to find that great gift for the cooking enthusiasts on our lists. Bringing out the sophisticate in you...Robin Mather Jenkins reviews The Bon Appetit Cookbook, edited by Barbara Fairchild. `Almost Famous' student is definitely a winner...in this special to the Tribune, Susan Taylor reports on Ranbir Batra of Kendall College, who recently won the S. Pellegrino "Almost Famous Chef" national competition. Star pours...Bill Daley provides some guidance on the "celebrity" wine segment. Tasting notes are included. Chicago-based tasting panel rates the top bargains in wine...Joe Gray reports the results of the most recent World Value Wine Challenge, held annually by the Beverage Tasting Institute, which is headed by the Tribune's Beer of the Month contributer, Jerald O'Kennard. Roll out the barrel...Matt McGuire reports on the growing popularity of beer aged in bourbon barrels. Tasting notes are included. Take it easy, mon ami...Bill Daley visits with Mireille Guiliano, the president and CEO of Veuve Clicquot, who lays out her relatively simple method for enjoying the holiday season. Apple pie dreams...Susan Taylor reports from the recently completed Le Cordon Bleu Schools North America Tarte aux Pommes High School Scholarship Competition, in which 3 local high-schoolers earned top honors. Pinata apple...Robin Mather Jenkins files this useful guide. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Feast of the Seven Fishes...Leah A. Zeldes reports on this Italian-Catholic holiday tradition and explains how chef John Caputo of Bin 36 will adapt it for the restaurant on Christmas Eve. Blue Plate Chicago bakes up holiday cookies for your table...Denise I. O'Neal provides the details. From the December 18 edition: Horseradish harvest may leave bitter taste...AP's Jim Suhr reports from the horseradish-growing capital of the U.S., Collinsville, IL, and explains that locals are worried over this year's potentially short crop. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Gifts of good taste...food editor Deborah Pankey provides her list of 'tasteful,' food-related holiday gift ideas. Resort chef focuses on diverse selection of meals...in this week's Chef du Jour installment, Mike Michaelson profiles executive chef Robert Fedorko of Ristorante Brissago at Grand Geneva Resort & Spa in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin. ===== From the December 15 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: The staff at The Reader take care of some end-of-the-year business with a Champagne primer (including local sources) and a recap of the most frequently rated restaurants of 2006. ===== In this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby report that Jerry Kleiner (Opera, Carnivale) is in the early stages of developing a Hinsdale space into a "'turn-of-the-century Italian trattoria/grocery store . . .'" which is likely to open in the 3rd quarter of 2007. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>
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From the article linked above by BRM: =R=
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Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 4)
ronnie_suburban replied to a topic in Cooking
I'll "third" it -- great job! Any tips you can share for how you accomplished that? =R= -
Ya' gotta love Solly's! =R=
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Doc, you hit the nail on the head! The service and the wine at Quince are outstanding. And, as we learned during our dinner there this past Thursday, the food is stellar as well. Everything we tasted was delicious. In fact, my only complaint about the food is that there might have been a bit too much of it. But, in all seriousness, we asked to be put in chef Mark Hannon's hands and those hands capably delivered a progression of delectable courses to our table. Since we weren't sure how many were coming, it was hard to gauge exactly how much food was coming until it actually arrived. It was a tough problem, but we happily endured. Combinations were clever and flavorful. The shaved asparagus salad, which showcased fresh and tender in-season asparagus from Peru, was bolstered with a beautiful hit of pungent truffle vinaigrette. Chef Hannon's take on tomato soup and grilled cheese was playful and delicious. The tomato bisque was rich and creamy and the basil oil atop it was a perfectly aromatic accent. The grilled cheese turned out to be warm and melty goat in between toasted slices of chewy ciabatta. Dueling courses of foie gras and sweetbreads rivalled each other and it was hard to choose a favorite. In the end, I gave the slight nod to the sweetbreads with their perfectly crisp exterior crusting and creamy interiors. The tender and smokey navy beans was the element that pushed them over the top for me. But the foie gras, accompanied by an exquisite corn silk puree, gave the sweetbreads a serious run for the money. I also really enjoyed the crispy, pan-fried skate wing; a treatment I'd never experienced before. Here the large portion of perfectly crispy skate was the star but the accompanying elements -- bacon, brussels sprouts, pommes puree and mustard -- sang in their own right. The combination was terrific and measured up to just about every skate I'd ever ordered. I absolutely loved the lamb spare ribs with curried lentils. I'd never had lamb ribs before and these were a great first experience. They were perfectly tender, rich and hearty and totally delicious. The sweet, sticky sauce was applied judiciously and it accented the natural flavor of the lamb very well. The curried lentils provided a great counternote and evoked a series of surprising emotions. Riding shotgun on the plate was an innovative rendition of Shepherd's Pie -- a miniature, oval gratin filled with braised lamb shank and topped with what I believe was a spicy eggplant and potato puree. This was just as sensational as the ribs were. All in all, the this was a very enlightening dish for me. Even better than the lamb ribs, however, were the phenomenal beef short ribs. Here tender boneless nuggets of braised short rib sat atop a near-perfect risotto which contained roquefort cheese, bacon and sweet and sour carrots, which were shaved into small curls. The delicate braised meat was textbook and the risotto was absolutely inspired. The combination was phenomenal. In less capable hands, this dish could have been a missed bet. But here, the roquefort and bacon were incorporated deftly into a combination which complemented the meat without overpowering it. I loved this dish. Wine service was very Alinea-like and terrific. What you get with Joe Ziomek is tremendous amounts of experience and knowledge as well as a seemingly innate ability to pair wines imaginatively with foods. The list is small but quite solid and growing (they're starting from scratch and hope to double the size of the cellar over the next year). The pairings are ready for prime time and the net result is that wines at Quince take the dining experience to a level which one might not ordinarily find at this price point. Joe's knowledge and passion for what he does come through loud and clear. While the wine service at Quince doesn't define the experience, it certainly is a distinguishing factor. After dinner we enjoyed a solid selection of tasty cheeses which included Manchego, Humboldt Fog and Cashel Blue. The cheeses were accompanied by fennel-raisin bread, sliced apple and Quince puree. Desserts were tasty too. I particularly enjoyed the banana bread pudding and the "Cider and Doughnuts," over which the four of us actively fought. Those doughnuts were light and fluffy, the cider glaze was aromatic and delivered that distinctive "bite" of acidity which defines freshly-pressed cider. Tea selection was thoughtful and exciting, with a bunch of interesting choices. The caffeine-free Earl Grey was excellent and the custom-blended coffees, sourced from Intelligentsia, were terrific too. In addition to dinner service, Quince also serves a promising-looking Sunday brunch which offers several traditional favorites and several innovative variations as well. I definitely plan on returning not only for brunch but also for dinner, so I can try some of the other delicious sounding offerings that we couldn't try on our first visit. We wanted to eat more because the food was exciting and compelling -- and we wanted to taste everything. But damn, we were full. So, we'll get ourselves back to Quince soon and try some of those other dishes next time. =R= Quince at the Homestead 1625 Hinman Avenue Evanston, IL 60201 (847) 570-8400
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December 13, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Book of the year: 'The Soul of A New Cuisine'...at the very top of the Good Eating section's 12 Best Cookbooks of the season is Marcus Samuelsson's Soul of a New Cuisine. Donna Pierce profiles the book and its author -- and excerpted recipes are provided. The rest of Good Eating's list is also provided as follows (reviewer's names are in parentheses): Baking: From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan (Renee Enna) The Improvisational Cook by Sally Schneider (Renee Enna) Black Forest Cuisine: The Classic Blending of European Flavors by Walter Staib (Bill Daley) Keep it Seasonal: Soups, Salads and Sandwiches by Annie Wayte (Joe Gray) Happy in the Kitchen by Michel Richard with Susie Heller and Peter Kaminsky (Carol Mighton Haddix) Curry Cuisine: Fragrant Dishes from India, Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia by Corinne Trang, et al. (Robin Mather Jenkins) Cooking from the Heart of Spain: Food of La Mancha by Janet Mendel (Carol Mighton Haddix). The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook by Matt Lee and Ted Lee (Donna Pierce). Arabesque: A taste of Morocco, Turkey & Lebanon by Claudia Roden (Robin Mather Jenkins). Jamie's Italy by Jamie Oliver (Joe Gray). Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen (Bill Daley). More newcomers worthy of mention...the Good Eating staff list several additional cookbooks which are still worthy tomes, even though they didn't make the Top 12 list. Information please!...Robin Mather Jenkins takes a look at The Oxford Companion to Food by Alan Davidson, The Food Encyclopedia by Jacques L. Rolland and Carol Sherman, Starting with Ingredients: Quintessential Recipes for the Way We Really Cook by Aliza Green and the CIA's The Professional Chef. Holiday helpers...Renee Enna profiles several cookbooks which could prove especially useful at holiday time: Antipasti: Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates by Joyce Goldstein, Chocolate & Vanilla by Gale Gand, The Farmstead Egg Cookbook by Terry Golson, Beautiful Breads & Fabulous Fillings: The Best Sandwiches in America by Margaux Sky and Truffles: 50 Deliciously Decadent Homemade Chocolate Treats by Dede Wilson. Spirited books for the season...Bill Daley rounds up some of the year's best titles in the 'Wine and Spirits' category. Documentary celebrates artisanal craft of Wisconsin cheesemakers...Rick Asa takes a look at Living on the Wedge, a documentary film about the up-and-coming artisanal Wisconsin cheese scene, produced by Evanston's Gaylon Emerzian and Mari Coyne. The film is scheduled to air on WTTW this Friday at 9:30 pm CT. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Beautiful brisket...with Hannukah just around the corner Marlene Gelfond shares a friend's brisket recipe; one she has treasured for nearly 40 years. Tiny bites . . . big taste...Janet Rausa Fuller takes a look ahead to 2007 and predicts that restaurants will continue to focus on small plates and small desserts. Cheers to these drinks...Denise I. O'Neal provides a list of several non-alcoholic holiday beverages. Links to recipes and listed products are provided. ===== From this week's Daily Herald - Food section: He flavors his approach to cooking with flair, fun...in this week's installment of Chef du Jour, Melissa Allen profiles Mark Downing of Sequel in Lombard. Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== From the December 8 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: The focus is again on new venues, as brief reviews of Fiddlehead Cafe, Taos and The Pierogi Factory are filed. An additional list of 20 other, relatively new spots is also provided. ===== In this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby preview Sapore di Napoli, a new pizzeria/gelateria with an imported, Moretti Forni oven, set to open in Lakeview by year's end. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>
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This past Saturday Prairie Grass Cafe named the winner of their 1st annual holiday cookie contest. That winner was none other than eGS member gmi3804! Not only did George win the Chef's Choice category but he swept the entire competition by also taking the Crowd Favorite category with his delectable Capuccino Brownies. As reward for his victory, George won an iPod and a dinner for 10 at Prairie Grass Cafe. He and the winning brownies were also featured on a segment of NBC's local Sunday morning news this past Sunday. Additionally, the brownies will be offered on Prairie Grass Cafe's menu through the month of December. Congrats, George! =R=
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AMEN! Tim ← I think the issue with F&O is that they because they run a store and a restaurant out of the same location, they are being extra cautious in regard to foie gras. Yes, it can be legally sold on a retail basis but they probably have decided to steer completely clear of the entire matter, and not have any of it in house. That policy actually makes sense to me, even though it might alienate a few prospective customers. I really believe mail order (or internet) is the best way to go in this case because ultimately the mail order supplier is going to be producer from whom the local source orders the foie gras in the first place. Additionally, interstate sales do not incur sales tax and that savings -- plus the fact that the local retailer isn't adding his margin to the sale -- usually ends up covering most of the shipping costs. =R=
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Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 4)
ronnie_suburban replied to a topic in Cooking
Welcome, BRM! I agree with what jmolinari and dansch posted above about the kitchen-aid...very useful and reliable as a grinder . . . to a point. If you already have a KA machine, the grinder attachment is a no-brainer. Last time I checked, they were under $50. It's a great starting point and if you don't like it, you're not out a whole bunch of money. But, if you don't already have a KA, the decision is probably more complicated. I really like mine but I'll admit that now, after about a year of making sausage, I'm beginning to understand its limitations. OTOH, I really don't have room for much more kitchen equipment. Otherwise, I'd have one of those nifty Hobart slicers like a few of the other fine folks who've posted on this thread. =R= -
December 6, 2006... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Winter's kiss...Bill Daley explains that even though winter is upon us, there are still several produce options available for those who want to eat locally and sustainably. The fruitcake problem...in this amusing special essay, Jeremy Jackson reports what most of us already know: fruitcakes generally suck. Gifts wine lovers can cozy up to...Bill Daley compiles an interesting list. From the farm...Nicholas Day reports on Wisconsin's Snug Haven Farm, which, with a bit of resourcefulness, turns out spinach for several markets and restaurants on a nearly year-round basis. These scares won't stick...in this special to the Tribune, Elizabeth Brewster debunks several myths about the risks of using various types of cookware. Seeing double...Alison Neumer Lara reports on how some families are taking full advantage of technological breakthroughs to help them preserve important culinary traditions and rites in the kitchen. Memories of potica...in this special to the Tribune, Eleanor Ostman waxes poetic about this Slovenian nut bread and explains how it helped bridge cultures in the Minnesota region where she was raised. Grapefruit...Donna Pierce files this useful guide. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Feeding the need for noodles...Leah A. Zeldes reports on how one diabetic, area restauranteur developed a bean extract which allowed him to have his noodles and eat them too. Tastings around town...Celeste Busk previews upcoming events at Delilah's, Cafe Matou and Seasons Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel. Getting into the holiday spirit...in this week's Food News, Denise I. O'Neal reports on what several area restaurants are doing to get into the spirit of this charitable season. ===== From this week's Daily Herald - Food section: Chef pioneers use of locally grown products...in this week's installment of Chef du Jour, Leah A. Zeldes profiles and interviews local pioneer, chef and restaurant consultant Michael Foley, former owner of the legendary Printer's Row in Chicago. There's no disputing that cinnamon is the scent of the season...food editor Deborah Pankey investigates spice that says Christmas, for many of us. Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== From the December 1 edition of the Chicago Reader's Restaurants section: David Hammond concludes his distinctive and informative series on regional Mexican cooking in Chicagoland with the sixth installment: Beyond the Burrito, Part 6: Yucatan, Nayarit, Nuevo Leon ===== In this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby report on some big, upcoming changes -- in both chef and cuisine -- planned at Le Lan. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you. <><><><><>
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LAZ covered most of the options I know of (Sunset, Treasure Island). I believe that Foodstuffs will also special order it for you. Additionally, I've had success ordering it via the internet from Hudson Valley Foie Gras. =R=
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With Quince's opening just 2 days away, the anticipation is building. I was lucky enough to get my hands on some sample menus, which look fantastic. Here are a few excerpts: It looks like a great menu and the by-the-glass wines seem especially thoughtful. I'm guessing the overall wine list will be quite interesting as well. In any case, I'm very much looking forward to the opening and cannot wait to experience Quince at the Homestead for myself. Good luck to the entire Quince team! =R=
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For the record, this item appeared in several news sources yesterday, including the AP, via the Chicago Tribune: Of course, after what didn't happen at the Time Warner Center in NYC, it's probably wise to view this 'news' with a grain of salt. Chicago Chef Charlie Trotter to open new restaurant by Ashley M. Heher. =R=
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Annoyingly, it appears that a new episode will not air tonight. Instead, it'll be a Season 2 'marathon' =R=
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Really? Erp. That makes mail order a bit risky. Has anyone else had this experience? ← No, I picked mine up at W-S, where I was able to try it out first. But any good mail order outlet should happily take a return if the item is flawed. W-S definitely would. Fwiw, last time I stopped in the store, they had more than one model on display. I guess they've become fairly popular and that the line has been expanded. =R=
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The bevelled edge has made very hesitant to try it. It looks like it needs a seasoned hand to sharpen it without causing damage and mine is definitely not seasoned. =R=
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I agree with this. I've managed to keep mine very sharp using the steel alone on a regular basis. I've still yet to find a trust-worthy, outside source for sharpening this knife. =R=