IML

The indefinite article is used just as often as it is without, and everywhere across the US. It isn't like the soda-pop-Coke phenomenon one finds in various regions across the US. iml

gps-shag: You're not missing out on much here. The pastry is well-executed, but lacks true character. The Bouchon brand operates at a level just above, say, Payard, and at a price-point that reaffirms my commitment to Claude. Photos would show exactly what you are probably imagining. Keller's gone corporate, and I wish him well. He deserves to profit as much as anybody. il

Bouchon was open tonight on a limited-scale test run for friends and family of the restaurant, and will not fully open to the public for at least another week, maybe week and a half. il

Will, I've been meaning to come by Room 4 Dessert and say, "Waddup." Need to. Anyways, do not let the rouget "thing" kill you, as I gathered it was probably not the kitchen's fault, and if it was, no biggie. The fish quality in most NY restaurants is OK at best, but I'm also a person who has questioned the quality of sashimi and sushi I had at Masa, not to mention handfuls of other places. il

Good question. I'm going to go to Una Pizza Napoletana and find out. il

I also sensed that Liebrandt hasn't quite got a handle on what he's trying to achieve culinary, at least on a conceptual level. This brand of cooking, while a logical extension of what came before it in his personal chronology, is more subdued, especially as far as flavor is concerned. At his past restaurants, flavor was more aggressively developed -- more decisive, you could say -- whereas now it is more "natural," which means he lets the ingredients speak for themselves. From this perspective, almost any two ingredients can be combined without creating a loud disharmony, as faint always pairs well with faint. My experience at Gilt, especially when compared to the meals others have eaten, has shown me there is a last-minute aleatory nature to the cuisine; Liebrandt suddenly decides to add or take away a particular garnish, or plop down two extra vegetables used from a main, or use an amuse he used at lunch as a side dish. His kitchen cooks, and cooks very well. Although I appreciate the improvisatory aspect of dining at Gilt, I do understand how it seemingly undermines itself to those looking for a strong, singular experience. If anything, I found the food a bit underwhelming. Like most people here, I didn't have a problem with the complexity, and especially when planned, difficult cuisine can be brilliant. When haphazardly constructed on the fly, it can feel as though there's no internal logic to it. People like rhyme and reason, and rhyme and reason that speaks loud and clear, rather than hushed and muddled. il

mikeycook: Most of the bread served in restaurants in NYC is made by either Sullivan Street Bakery, Amy's Bread, Pain D'Avignon, or Tom Cat Bakery, and all use a combination of a "natural starter" and commercial yeast, the latter to ensure a full, plump bread that rises on a strict timetable. These are all large-scale bakeries, where the dough tends to be overmixed (and consequently overly oxidized), resulting in a light, pliable bread that exhibits sufficient oven spring. Take into account that most of the baking is finished by seven a.m. even though it's not served until dinner service; that most of the loaves served at restaurants are shapes (rolls, batards, baguettes and their variants) with a large surface area to crumb ratio; and breads that do not retain moisture very well -- and, well, you get the picture. Most high-end restaurants that have in-house bread service in NYC, with the exception of Bouley, make direct-method breads (i.e., without the use of pre-ferments or a levain) that are baked in conventional gas-fired ovens, resulting in fresher, if more boring, specimens. il

Don't forget Boulangerie Philippe in Prairie Village for takeaway. il P.S. Sushi House orders all their desserts from a large food vendor.

Todd36: I never once flinched at Gilt's prices, even before the supplement overhaul, as I knew that many costs were built into the menu structure, especially those that appear to be free. I dare somebody to find another high-end meal in Manhattan whose amuse-gueule service comes close to matching Gilt's for sheer quantity or quality, and this is to say nothing of the side plates that accompany larger dishes or the bread service. What's more, there is a general consensus on all the food boards -- even from Bruni himself -- that as far as execution goes, Gilt should be considered in the same league as the top restaurants in town, and maybe even better than some of those. A person would have to be stupid to dismiss the level of this kitchen's craftmanship or the integrity of their foodstuffs, which isn't to say they do not have many kinks that need to be resolved. Even during its first week, I believe one could say Gilt came out of the chute, kicking some culinary ass, and operating at a three-star level. Substantively I do not understand what Bruni faults Gilt for, other than a single fish dish (the sole) and what he sees as Liebrandt's culinary verbosity. As far as pricing goes, el Bruño himself seemed pleased that Gilt revamped its menu, pushing down the average check. If the restaurant couldn't get more technically sound than what he was fed, then the only gripe one could make was on a conceptual end, that he or she does not like Liebrandt's approach. Bruni more or less said this exact phrase, but, like Gagnaire, I believe one has to defer to the kitchen's approach if one is to have a pleasurable meal. Bruni got Gilt to bow to his pricing complaints; now maybe he'll have his simple, simple, simple cake and eat it too. il

And come to think of it, Papillon also got two stars. To say these two places are equals borders on lunacy.

Problem is, Will, he'd be the type of critic that would tell you, with a straight face nonetheless, which notes to remove, and think nothing of it. Todd36: You should cancel your dinner, and instead go to a swanky three-star establishment, such as BLT Fish, Bolo or Spice Market. il

When I first ate there, the only thought that ran through my mind was: WWBG? (What Would Bruni Give?)

Go for lunch.

oakapple: You're probably right. I've noticed in recent weeks that the stars sometimes accompany the review when they first upload everything, and sometimes not. I was going to say, this review's tone feels as though it he's going to give it two. Zero didn't make any sense. Todd36: Don't cancel. Liebrandt is extremely talented. I have enjoyed his food at all the other places he's cooked (minus those he was acting within a consulting position), and Gilt is his best effort yet.

Oh my god, what a snub. He just gave Gilt zero stars. He just put a stake right through that business' heart. At first I thought it must be a mistake, as his review doesn't read as dour as most of his zero through two-starred entries.

Although I think Gilt, like Cello before it, would be at the upper-end of its designated star category, I believe it should, and will, get three stars. The bread service is middling at best, and desserts (with the exception of the mignardises) can be completely written off. There are just too many details that need tweaking before one can mention Gilt's quality in the same breath as Per Se and the other four-stars. (It should be noted that I never found it overpriced, even before the supplement overhaul.) il

Despite regular access to Sripraphai, I do miss Jasmine (whose desserts easily beat Sri's), which is one of those rare finds anywhere, along with York Street. Both restaurants are run by two very knowledgable and talented female chefs who deserve mad props. Sharon's food is better and quirkier than most of the stuff I've found in NY, not to mention radically cheaper. il

The chorizo y chocolate is one of the least successful dishes on the menu, at least in my (myopic, sententious) mind, as the chorizo lacks the saltiness and textural thinness to play against the chocolate. For me, a softer meat with more brine would pair better. Some of the best dishes at Tia Pol are the nightly, entree-priced specials. il

Doc, The transplanted per se alums followed the manager and good pay.

Blue Hill's FALL VEGETABLES, Raw and Marinated, Pistachios and Mushroom Gelee. Unparalleled. An improvised dish from Gilt, which was a bastardy hybrid of both their Striped Bass dish with components from their Cod dish. Brilliant and haunting. il

The best Mexican food in New York is found in outer-borough locales (Queens and Brooklyn), but one need not traipse that far to find more authentic fare. A sizeable chunk of New York's Mexican population is from Puebla and its surrounding areas, the birthplace of "true" Mexican cuisine, a subject of debate outside the considerations of this post. The best taqueria in Manhattan I have found thus far is Taco Mix, which is located on 116th Street between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, as it is one of the few joints that not only uses a comal but also has a mise-en-place for toppings and sauces (a sign of freshness; important for depth-of-flavor). I have yet to find a place that specializes in tacos al pastor, so it should be considered an afterthought, since none carry the vertical rotisserie spiked with pork, pineapple and onion. il

Anything north of $30/lb. for fresh morels is extortionate, no matter the quality, and NY morels are nowhere near the best in the US.

I have tried several dozen madeleine recipes in the last two months, many of my own invention, including one I worked out via e-mail with Herve This involving a frozen center and liquid outside to produce a crisp exterior and molten interior, similar to Bras' coulant. The Mariage Freres recipe I found a tad cakey. What are you trying to accomplish with your madeleine, and what flavor? Really, only lemon is worth making to me.

The book is also avail. in stores, and let me tell you: it looks horrible. The Minimalist Takes on Too Much, that's what.

I do agree with you, Scott, that there are much better materials, including the tandoors made from large, fifty-five gallon drums, and are used in so many Indian restaurants nowadays.