Suzanne F

Well, I had to pay $7.50! No, really, it's okay. And thanks for mentioning the signage. I was too busy chatting with my line-mates to write down the stuff on the wall, but it was still a lot better than I could ever do in Japanese. No giggling, Jason. Although there were a couple of moments when it seemed they might break into song, a la Cold Stone Creamery. (Fortunately, they didn't.) Just ate puff #3 (the sacrifices I make for this place, grumble grumble) which has been in the fridge since about 4:45 this afternoon. The pastry is starting to sog a bit, but is still mostly crisp. And I could be wrong, but I think the vanilla flavor is a bit stronger. So we have a dichotomy: fresher pastry is better, but slightly aged filling has more flavor. Oh dear. OH, and Welcome, Banh Cuon!

I forget if I gave my "recipe" on the Fried Chicken thread, so here goes: Make a brine and add lots of lemon juice and hot sauce. Add chicken parts and soak for however long. Mix in a bag: all-purpose flour, Old Bay (a lot!), and maybe even some finely ground black pepper (I like my chicken salty and peppery) Heat an inch or so of canola oil or corn or canola/corn blend in a cast-iron or other heavy, straight-sided skillet. Very hot. Take a few pieces of chicken out of the brine, shake of most but not all of the brine, drop in the flour, shake shake shake. Take out and place in hot oil, skin side down. Cook until the right color (you'll know). Turn over and cook some more, until done. Place on a rack over a baking sheet and keep warm in a very low oven while you do the same with the rest of the pieces. When all the chicken pieces have been cooked, pour out the oil (VERY carefully), add some of the flour to the skillet to make a roux, add some chicken stock, and boil it up for gravy. Mmmm over grits!

No, the only thing they had to sell was the cream puffs. On the price board there were little "Coming Soon"-type signs stuck over everything else. I figure if they can get by with fewer staff, given the high markup and relatively low production costs, they'll be able to stay in business a nice long time. And once the buzz has died down, they can probably run the front with two, maybe three staff.

Thanks, Jason. You think maybe the Times should know?

Fear not! I only had to wait about 25 minutes. Very nice people ahead of and behind me on line. And lots of folks walking by seemed to gravitate to the woman behind me to ask what was going on, why were we all waiting on line? The reactions when told "Creampuffs" ranged from mildly unprintable to "Are they really good?" to totally mystified, bemused looks. All anybody on line could say was, "Who knows? They just opened." The store is tiny: just wide enough for a few miniature speed racks, two small ovens (barely 3 feet square?), a counter where they fill and package the puffs, and one line of customers. The register is in the middle, and beyond is case for their other items (cheese cake stick, mango desserts, and the coffee maker). Nothing except the cream puff operation was going yet. The decor is very simple, very clean -- nothing flashy like the rice pudding place on Spring Street. The focus is on putting out the product, not on impressing customers with expensive design. Today they had a full assembly line: one person (all the workers were young Japanese women, very perky) to load the ovens with the trays of raw puffs and to empty the baked ones into a shallow bin; one to squirt the "whipped cream custard" into the puffs; one to dredge the filled puff puffs with powdered sugar; one to put them into little paper wrapper/bags; one to pack your order; and one working the register. They were all pretty good about answering questions in English, or at least trying to. One mentioned that there are 250 stores in Japan and that everyone is very excited about opening this one (at least, I think that's what she said). Okay: so how are these "beard papa's fresh 'n natural cream puffs"? Are they truly "World's Best Cream Puffs!"? Well, the choux pastry itself just might be the best I've had. The aroma of butter and egg is perfect, and the flavor of the two elements is very well balanced -- not too eggy, they as sometimes are. As far as I can tell, the "double-layer" comes from a very thin piecrust layer on the bottom of the choux, kind of brought up the sides a short distance. (Unbaked, you can't see anything; just perfectly uniform blobs of dough, even a little pasty -- not eggy -- looking. It's possible that the choux dough is fully wrapped, and explodes out of the pie dough when baking. ) There's a distinct difference in texture and flavor between the two elements of the shell. Definitely a superior choux puff, IMO. They didn't actually fill the choux pastries when they were hot, directly out of the oven. (If they did, it would be bad for the filling, and probably lead to sogginess.) The puffs cool, and then one-by-one get jammed onto a tube leading out of what looks like a tiny silo, or sausage stuffer, or pancake-batter depositor. The filler sticks a puff onto the tube, then pulls down a handle on the custard silo, and voila! She had a tiny scale on which she would periodically check the filled weight. I didn't see her throw any out after weighing. And the "whipped cream custard" filling, with its highly-touted vanilla-bean-speckles? It's . . . okay. Only lightly sweetened, and not particularly vanilla flavored for all the fuss they make about using "handpicked vanilla beans from Madagascar, known worldwide for the best natural-grown vanilla beans." The texture is very nice, light and smooth, a bit more toward the whipped cream than the custard. But there's not quite enough flavor. (In future, there will also be fillings flavored with green tea, caramel, cocoa, and "royal milk tea.") The light shower of powdered sugar is good, not enough to flake off all over you. Which is good, because the filling squishes out by the second or third bite. Not great when you're eating one in a #3 express train barreling downtown. Fortunately it all stayed in the little paper wrapper. But the young woman across the aisle from me grinned as I licked my fingers and very kindly offered me some napkins. (Oh yeah, the store did not have any napkins out; maybe those will come later, with the rest of the items and the beverages.) The cream puffs are $1.25 each. They are approximately 3 inches in diameter, 2 inches high, and weigh 2.5 ounces/78 grams.

Boy, did I get the name wrong! Thanks for the correction. That Taleggio pizza is one of my favorites, but we couldn't get it because we didn't want to kill Marlene.

That is SOOOOOOOOOOOO important! All too often, the only feedback given is negative; or if everything is all right, there's just a grunted approval. Say it loud!

Varmint -- speaking of scallops AND short ribs: I once had the two together at the late Jean-Louis Palladin's restaurant in NYC: WOW! Maybe you could get the veal breast cut into chunks, braise it a la short ribs but with white wine, and then pair it with seared scallops? See, I always figure that if it's something new and no one else knows how it should turn out, unless it's a REAL disaster like the cornmeal-in-place-of-brown-sugar experience, everyone will still be impressed and happy. After all, no one -- not even you, the cook -- will know if it came out perfect or not!

I'll be on 72nd Street today. In the interests of science, I will walk up and check out the place. It's a tough job, but for the betterment of the eGullet population I am willing to make the effort. Will report back this evening.

Not mixing water and chocolate applies to specific conditions and uses -- as in, chocolate will seize if a small amount of moisture gets into it while it is melting. But melting chocolate into a large amount of liquid is fine. It's not as though we are all now going to be forced to use the new technique exclusively. I am all for experimentation if it produces a positive result (whether of taste, smell, or texture). More ways to experience and enjoy good food? A definite Yea! vote.

Well, I guess that's easier for everyone than just linking to it, as I did yesterday on the Katy Sparks thread.

It must be real: there was an ad for it in yesterday's NY Times food section. The first 3 chefs listed are Todd English, Tom Valenti, and Tyler Florence. And David Rosengarten is doing the Saturday and Sunday brunch shows. The complete list of chefs is available at the website, says the ad. Dare I link to it? No: but it's chefstheater.com There's also a series of corporate-sponsor logos at the bottom of the ad: Bloomie's, Cuisinart, Waring Pro, freshdirect, and Wolf. Interesting.

Remember: this unfortunate meal took place on Valentine's -- a.k.a. Amateurs' Night for dining out (and I don't mean just lovers). A lot of people just don't know how to behave. As someone who has on occasion been guilty of such rude behavior -- although I hope not quite THAT rude -- I thank you for the reminder to keep my voice down. I've also been on the receiving end of neighbors' too-loud bitching, and if it happens again, I just might follow Comfort Me's lead.

I'm so glad to hear that the wings at Johnny's are still terrific! It seems so strange for a fish place, but then Ann Cashion is super. Is Market Inn still open? We used to love going there for Saturday lunch -- oyster specials -- but that was 25 years ago.

Pan, I gather that Miss Vickie is Little Debbie's cousin. Marlene, this is great! And now I know another reason why I like you: does the phrase "PERT-CPM" ring a bell?? That, my friends, is why those cupboards are so enviable: remember that Marlene said she's a Facilities Manager? That is the HEIGHT of organization! Thank you for opening you life, your home, and all to us, Marlene.

Be on time. Or even a little early. Yeah, I know someone said that already, but remember that showing up is a huge part of any job. And if you are delayed (which you should make sure NOT to be), call them to let them know. That is greatly appreciated and goes a long way to reverse the negative of your being late. Do not look anxious to get it over with and get out of there. Even if you are. Because this will make make them wonder if you'll be like that at work, too. Keep breathing. Keep breathing. Keep breathing. And on the "neat and clean" stuff: no jangly jewelry (sorry, I forget which gender you are); no strong perfume/after shave. If your hair is long, make sure you can demonstrate how you'll keep it out of the way. Ask them if they know that "signatory" is not the same as "signature." NO, don't do that; you'll come off as a smart-ass. But why DO they say that on the menu on the website???

Robyn -- don't jump down my throat, but I have to correct you: Holly is not a she. In fact, he is one of our more venerable members. One of the hosts of the Pennsylvania forum, and the sole host of New England (because nobody else would take the job ). Seriously, if you like REAL American food (and don't care about atmosphere) check out his website: HollyEats

Wow! I've got that book, and now that I look at the back flyleaf -- Yes! it's you!! Some years ago, Margaret Juntwait, a weekend afternoon dj on WNYC when it still played lots of music wondered on the air about the origin of the word "lobscouse." So He Who Only Eats and I grabbed my copy and trotted over to the studio to show her your book. She was suitably impressed. Ahem, to keep on-topic, I've got 10 more on order (plus another Laurie Colwin non-food book)

Rachel, did you know that if you blend Vernor's Ginger Ale (from Detroit) and vanilla ice cream, that's known as a Boston Cooler? Don't make no sense to me, neither. I used to love coffee ice cream in root beer. Has anyone had any of Gale Gand's ice cream sodas? Doesn't she do something like that?

If I could make this a poll, I would, but since I can't I'll just throw out the question: Do you sometimes make a brand-new, untested (by you) recipe when you're cooking for guests, or do you always stick with the tried-and-true? All the conventional wisdom says do the latter. But I know I will try new dishes I've never made before. What about you? And how has it worked out?

Oh, YEAH! Did a 5-pound semi-boneless leg of lamb tonight -- coated with white miso/mustard/garlic/rosemary. 1 1/4 hours at 350F, and the instant reads said WAAAAAAAAAAY overdone (as much as 175 in some places) But when I sliced it, it was PERFECT: still nice and rare at the ends, very rare in the middle so the leftovers will reheat perfectly. WOOHOO! I LOVE TO COOK!!!!!!!!!!! Chris, just bask in this splendor all week!

Utah, huh? Okay, so it's not red, white, or blue, but . . . Grasshopper pie!!!

Also not yet 60, but getting there Another Howard Johnson's memory: there was one on the vast, empty stretch of Northern Boulevard between Douglaston and Little Neck. It was always a thrill to stop there on our way out to or back from "the Island." Yes, their fried clams were the sweetest! (Talk about forbidden pleasures!) And when we would take our summer vacation, with my father driving the '53 Chevy, whenever we'd pass one, be it in upstate NY or on the way to Luray Caverns, the universal cry went up: "Howard Johnson's!?!?!?!" The height of elegant dining was Bernhard's Steak House in ? Great Neck? (At least I remember it was somewhere in northwest Nassau County, near the water). But for middle-class fine dining there was Patricia Murphy's on the Miracle Mile (hot popovers! relishes on the table including pickled watermelon rind and cottage cheese [separately, not mixed, thank god]).

Wow! Thanks for both those links. And Welcome to eGullet!

When HWOE is off on travel, I will mix up a batch of tuna salad and feast! (He likes it all right -- better the ways I make it than what he had as a kid -- but he's not crazy about it as I am.) I could eat it almost every day. I'm just a tuna whore: never met a version I couldn't put in my mouth. Oil pack, water pack, fresh; mayo, Miracle whip (although I never have it around); sweet pickle relish, chopped cornichons, or none; onions or not; celery or not; carrots and curry powder -- any which way, YES. The only thing I don't understand is the Tuna Melt. There's a thread on that somewhere.