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ngatti

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Everything posted by ngatti

  1. The New Jersey regional section of the New York Times featured a profile of Daniel Stern (Executive Chef) in the Dec. 22nd edition. For pay only and not available for purchase either. Lead paragraph here Nick
  2. Yes, I would agree. If you're looking to impress with a culinary experience, skip Highlawn. I've not been to Stagehouse, but it gets a lot of good press here on this board. It's on my list. Nick
  3. macrosan said: Ah, but as with genius and madness, the line between 'wit' and 'twit' can be a fine one and writers should tread these borders lightly. As my wife and several others never tire of saying to me : "Nick, it's just food." Macrosan, I tend to agree that much restaurant reviewing is ultimately bound up with the marketing constraints of a particular newspaper. An audience is identified and part of the editors job may be an attempt to reconcile the review with the audience. I point out the constraint of having to convey a fair amount of *hard* information within a few column inches. To attempt to, at the same time, communicate feelings and impressions that would primarily be useful to a reader may also be viewed as a constraint. So might one posit that there is a at least a substantive difference between newspaper and magazine restaurant reviews. My context is limited to New York, so as a specific example I might offer comparison between, say, The New York Times and Gourmet magazine (inches versus pages). Qualitatively speaking, sure, I think that writing reviews for newspapers would be much more difficult than for other venues/media. I think (again my NYC centrism) that William Grimes and before him Ruth Reichel and Bryan Miller were very very good. The writing, on occasions transcending the subject. So while one may chastise these writers for perceived 'wrongheaded' opinions, the reviews as writing exist independently as good examples of good, shall we say, restaurant review writing. Tonyfinch said: But can the two be bound together? Can a review, as you put it, rise to the level of extraordinary food writing? These are the questions posed in this topic, no? Isn't that what the sidebar or Zagat Guide is for? I'm not familiar with Meades, but it strikes me that this may be the start. Here may be the distinction. Subject to, and incumbent upon an individual newspaper. Pedantry aside, all of what you mention could be part of a 'review' . If one must 'wade through' it because of the wealth (tedium?) of all the extraneous information, then it is, perhaps, the writer/editors fault. The time does appear ripe. Britcook said: Yes, first and foremost. And as with any performer the writer plays to an audience. When one dismisses the audience for the sake of art...well...Can one dismiss an aspect that is so tightly bound with it for the sake of a higher form of said art? I don't think restaurant reviewing can exist in a vacuum. It is essential for a critic (or artist/performer) who aspires to a greater form/level within their art to nurture, coax, and educate, in order to bring the audience along with them. So perhaps, great food criticism and great food writing are inextricably tied together with the writer. Maybe the culinary canon is still in its early developmental stage. Analagous to chess we await our culinary Paul Morphy and the attendent flood of ideas. I pray it doesn't take as long. Perhaps the rise of internet publishing will speed it along. Nick
  4. I start by referencing Robert Browns analogy of chefs to couturiers and by extrapolation, restaurants to the great houses of fashion, with, of course all of the industry breadth that lies underneath this statement. Could not restaurant criticism be placed in the same category as criticism of haute couture, haute coiffure, and perhaps interior decorating? It seems that the evolutionary dynamic, the "greased pig" aspect is similar in all of these fields. While restaurant criticsm, as it appears in printed form in a newspaper could be an editorial policy contrivance, the criticism in and of itself may not necessarilly be so. Certainly there must be a significant number of publishers and editors who view the very idea of a restaurant review as just so much fluff to as you say, "attract advertising" etc... The nascent general rise in interest in restaurants and all things culinary, though perhaps too broad a subject for this topic, seems to get seriously rolling in the early eighties. I make an assumption that the subject is a worthy one for excellent and in depth critical analysis, but I might ask; has the quality and relevancy of the writing kept up with the nations overwhelming interest in the subject? I get a feeling (and it is only that), that with the American consumers (not a pro argument validating the rampant rise in *culinary* consumerism) interest in all things culinary, that there is a rush to fill a void of food writing with anything that meets a minimum subject requirement (i.e. it's about food and it's spelled correctly). In my opinion, this doesn't disqualify the subject from sincere attempts at high level criticism. Perhaps the subject (food and restaurants) hasn't been part of the critical conciousness long enough to have developed a canon. Nick
  5. FWIW, Sounds like you haven't stretched the gluten in the roux enough. In other words cook it and stir it a bit longer. If your chicken stock is reduced to as gelatinous a stage as you say then the additional cooking of the roux won't sully the color. Instead of merely bubbling for 30 seconds. Vigorously cook and stir until you detect a faint odor of almonds. That's a blonde roux. Sounds like what you're currently using is essentially warm Beurre Manie. As Suzanne said, good for a thickening at the finish, but very likely to break if cooked for any length of time, and your description sounds like a broken sauce. Cheers Nick
  6. Robert Brown and Jonathon Day said: Robert/JD, would you also say this true of the visual or theatrical arts? It seems to me that the level of expertise is achieved by nurturing a kernal of inate talent through some type of rigorous formal training. In the visual arts, some type of design/color theory as well as a proper grounding in technique (prepping canvas properly, cutting brushes, mixing colors etc...). Or an actor studying at the HB Institute directly from high school. Does not formal culinary education(or absent that, apprenticeship in several noted kitchens) serve this same purpose? I might suggest that the culinary student trains within a similar but different paradigm. At the risk of sounding crude, I have met and worked with brilliant, talented and extraordinarily well trained actors that were dumb as fenceposts. Ah, but context is everything and although not formal training in a traditional sense, would not serving an apprenticeship or journeymans tour at the foot of a Gagnaire, Adria etc...be analogous to and constitute the culinary equivilent of, say, an advanced degree? As do I, but the reasons we have may have far less to do with this topic. *Hardworking and devoted* are key here. That and a fondness for latin cultures. These particular employees are far less hidebound by formal culinary education and not limited to latinos. In my view, it is the lack of formal *culinary* education which makes them valuable rather than the lack of traditional formal higher education. For example; Chefette said: In light of what I've previously said, I would argue precisely the opposite. LML said: A very astute observation! I have long held the belief that a significant number of American Chefs (formally and informally trained), have come to the business based upon their square peggedness. That the perceived accessability of the business coupled with an underachieving nature provides a draw for many people in this business. That many simply "fall into it" is an anecdotal but, I feel, valid belief. This isn't to say that they are uneducated, merely that, as LML, has put it, *uneducable*. JD said: I might add that they also will not last long. Particularly if working in a European kitchen or with a Europeon chef. It is, in my experience, an adapt or die situation. But it *is*, as you say, about attitude. I think that a university educated person would have an extraordinary motivation to even consider attempting this type of work. That may make him more resilient. I also think that properly motivated (one can't question the reason for such here), the higher education gives advantage. There is a wider worldview that I believe works in favor of a sincere latecomer to the restaurant business. Re Bourdain and culinary grads. I speak with all due respect. I only know from his books and a brief passing acquaintance. I strongly suspect that he speaks from personal experience (his own). Much as a recovering alcoholic or ex-smoker would decry the use of said substances to the point of distraction. Nick
  7. Well, I'm sure she's a very nice person...but...no,no...I promised I wouldn't do this anymore. If you haven't anything nice to say etc...etc... Nick
  8. The reviews from this week's GO! section in The Record. Rigoletto Espresso Hanami/Westwood Is this Hanami connected to the one in Cresskill? Nick
  9. Only a Good, Tommy. Here tis: NY Times does (in?) Zarole Nick
  10. It seems from the way that the Times article was presented (a compilation of VGs, Excellents, and Extraordinaries), that no, La Tour wasn't reviewed. At least during the tenure of Corcoran and Cook. I did try to search the Times site with several different combinations of "David Corcoran" and "La Tour", but no luck. This usually results in a hit or two, so I draw the conclusion that it wasn't reviewed by the Times. Mr. Corcoran will occasionally drop in here on eGullet, maybe he can help. edit: Couldn't find it on Northjersey.com either. Nick
  11. Oh yeah, and another thing: Acuras and Volvos are for tourists. Nick
  12. I said a "joint" in the best sense of the word (21 Club, and The Grill Room at The Four Seasons also qualify under that definition). Ducasse or Jean Georges it ain't and it would be worth dining with you if you could teach me how to get out of America for less than 150 bucks a couple. Nick
  13. I don't think it proves very much, per se . Certainly my posts intention wasn't made to prove anything good, bad or indifferent. Only to confirm that 90 Grand Grille is located in a pretty affluent part of NJ and (IMO) seeks to market itself to the high end. Which is hard *not* to do in downtown Englewood. I like eGullet restaurant recs also, but I also like David Corcoran, and enjoy reading him even when we have gross differences of opinion (Petite Paris comes to mind). FWIW: David Corcoran's review of 90 Grand Grille cheers Nick
  14. Not really Rosie (most expensive). But it is kind of a "joint" (in the best sense of the word), much as Smoke's Chophouse and Solaia, and Grissini are "joints". They serve as hangouts for the well-heeled locals. Jamie Milkman has successfully moved his clientle from Jamie's over to 90 Grand Grill. Licolns and Caddies (as well as BMWs and Mercedes with a DB7 and Ferrari thrown in for spice) yes, but consider the location also. NE Bergen County. Nick
  15. That's the most offensive thing I've ever heard. Nick
  16. "Wife Beater", or "Guinea Tee", Paul? I can understand the upset at "Guinea Tee". The "wife beater" thing (I assume) is an extrapolation from Stanley Kowalski in Streetcar Named Desire (I never heard that particular term until today). Wife beater? I don't get the upset, but as my wife says, "Nick, you're *such* a man!" Should I get offended at the use of the word "man" as a pejorative? Nick
  17. I thought it was called a Kowalski. Did I just offend the Polish community? Nick
  18. I wear a uniform every day and consider dressing for dinner part of the thrill of eating in a nice restaurant. I also feel very uncomfortable if I perceive myself to be underdressed. I'll suit up for Seranade, Nicholas, Ryland, Esty Street etc... Some places get the sports jacket and tie treatment (I consider that casual, but that's my problem). Wearing a jacket and a collared shirt without a tie makes me feel underdressed. Hey, I work in a private club. We have a dress code. I'm also old. Nick
  19. Remember though, that as the intro to the article explained. This wasn't a "Best" list, per se. It is a Dining Out Guide. An encapsulated compilation of all the VG, Excellent, and Extraordinary (1 only) reviews from the Jersey regional Sunday NY Times since Cook and Corcoran formed the Tag Team. No. 9's absence prolly means that they didn't get to it yet. As far as an on-line link is concerned; The NY Times on-line edition is notorious for the delays in posting on-line links to it's regional restaurant reviews. I don't know how they treat front page stories such as this, but I couldn't find it. It should get there ...eventually. Nick
  20. It's the NJ section of the Sunday NY Times, Menton1. Some of us receive it on Saturday. It's on the front page of the section. Nick
  21. Try this, Rosie. A thread about Steve Santoro edit: I think the CIA gig is over. Nick
  22. This weeks Record reviews. Of note for me is the first review of Dish sans Steve Santoro Trio in Cliffside Park Dish in Passaic Park I don't know Trio, but it's in a neighborhood close to many of the Joisey Gullets. Nick
  23. Nick
  24. Pero's, The Antlers (Haworth) Nick
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