ngatti

yes dear? actually, as far as italian specifically, there is practically nothing in bergen. i suppose for *that* i'd go to the city. okay, a bad oyster. I understand. Nick

Oh I hear you jason. I'm very skeptical of so much that passes itself off as Italian out here. After three or four mediocre meals in a row in different (so-called) "upscale Italian" restaurants in differnt towns, I just don't eat in them. Not that should have to drive into NYC to get good food (Italian or otherwise). It's just that it seems Bergen county, from one end to the other, is dotted with a certain type of Italian restaurant all fraught with the same degree of ordinariness. I think it's the easist type of cooking to do well and the easiest to screw up. Whether you get one or the other can be a crapshoot. edit: "again, just because you can't understand people's motives doesn't make them wrong." Tommy: Please explain "again"?? Nobody mentioned right or wrong here. I agree with Hank that the River Road strip of ordinary italian restaurants is just that (ordinary). I also agree with him (heartily and "in spades") that *I* also would be more inclined to drive 15 minutes further on and eat better Italian food in NYC. People have many motives for many things. Some I understand and some I don't. The only thing concrete is that assuming that I think them *wrong* is presumptuous. cheers Nick

Key word, of course, being... *good*. edit: This part of Bergen County being much closer to NYC than others. Nick

What he said, in spades! Nick

Jim, James Beard's American Cookery has some detailed instructions in the introduction to the chapter; "Ham and Bacon". I have used this to cook several Smithfields and found that you may err on the side of caution vis a vis soaking and boiling, but to attempt to short-cut the process will leave you with a pretty salty ham. Beard calls for 2 and 1/2 hours at the simmer (after a 48 hour soak and scrub). I think these hams can use either more soaking (in changes of water) or a longer slower simmer. Maybe a good apres simmer soak in the water before baking. Just my two pennies based on my single attempt to cook a bunch of these for a holiday buffet in a Hotel I once worked in. Good Luck Nick

Yeah Steve, But I do much glossing (a fault). I was surprised. As with you (if i read you correctly), it wouldn't occur to me. edit: Ruth Reichl?? Nick

Yeah, Well that's my point. I think that based on your extensive and particular dining experiences (as i read them), that maybe you wouldn't like it there (I think you might). Well maybe you wouldn't cross the street for 'em. That's okay. It's what makes the world go round. I was being pretty longwinded and repetative. All I wanted to say is that I thought Chez panisse was pretty clear as to what they're about. In a nutshell: It is what it is. Nick

Just finished. Was a smashing success. I stink of White Truffle and Sevruga. Nick

Fair enough, but now that I think of it "Rolls-Royce" would be a better analogy. A friend of a friend owned one (actually, several in a row) and reported that they were nightmares to maintain--constantly in the shop. So the Rolls analogy would be "Here's a luxury item. It's expensive and difficult and hard to obtain, but your friends will be suitably impressed, provided they never find out from personal experience just what a bitch having one really is." Which brings us back to marcus's original post, trying to warn us that the effort to get a table isn't worth all the trouble. I got the impression that, for such a grand restaurant with such a high reputation, the staff weren't as devoted to the customer as they should have been, but rather were trying to standardize the Chez Panisse experience like some sort of foodie boot camp. More and more, it seems, these restaurants at the highest levels almost seem to be something that you have to not only pay a high tariff for, but to actually survive to tell others of your war stories. It's a little, I suppose, like military personnel trying to one-up each other, Navy SEALs vs. Rangers vs. Green Berets: "*I* survived The Herbfarm!" "That's nothing! *I* made it through The French Laundry!" "You're all a bunch of wimps! *I* graduated from foodie boot under Gunnery Sergeant Tom Keller! What a hard-ass!" Well Deacon, it isn't such a grand restaurant. A very high end Saab/Volvo analogy (if there were such things) works better than the Rolls/Bentley or the Ferrari. I didn't eat in Chez Panisse per se, but I did eat in the cafe and received a kitchen tour of the downstairs during prep time. I don't think Chez Panisse is in the same league as a Fleur de Lys or ADNY/Paris. Not that it's in a worse league. More like a *different* league. gknl is right. Everything is up front. You are going to eat Alice Waters particular *design* philosophy. That is clear. There is no trying to hide that. Everyone knows that (or should) going in, even without Chez Panisse being upfront about it (which, IMO, they are). I ate there, expecting absolutely *no* culinary wizardry. No artful little asides. No intellectual references, and no brilliance. It was clear to me from what I'd read and what i was seeing when I arrived that Chez panisse doesn't deal in such. What I did expect was simple and straightforwrd preparations of great seasonal raw materials that were carefully selected and sourced. This is what I received. Hell, my dessert was a Pluot in a wooden bowl. That's it! But for me, based upon what I already knew about the place, it was enough. There is a definite *vibe* running through the place. It *is* Berkely after all. That Ginsburg, Dead, JA thingie. Hell, I woulda lit up a doob for the walk from the BART to the front door no problem (palpable nostalgia). I don't think one has to necessarily lower ones expectations. More a matter of the right expectation for what it is. The tip thing. I don't know about downstairs, but up in the cafe it was clearly printed on the bottom of my menu that the Grat was included. In fact, it was my feeling that the place went out of it's way to make me feel that a gratuity was not necessary. A spot on the receipt for a tip? maybe more to do with the POS software than Chez Panisse. I palmed my very pleasant waitress a Jackson any way. I liked her. It's only one restaurant so a naturally a reservation is a difficult ticket to score. *That* shoudn't play into a given meal experience, though I don't doubt that your food was ill-prepared. That stuff happens, and as was mentioned, hard to hide when there is no recourse to other menu items. Chez Panisse cooks what they cook. That's clear. If one can't or won't eat it than perhaps a cancellation woulfd be in order. SG- Boot Camp? But at Chez Panisse, that's what is is (Ok, to a certain extent). Everyone knows this (don't they?). If you're looking for more than this, I think one should reconsider dining here at all. I read with great interest all the places where you enjoy dining(fascinating) . None of them are Chez Panisse (philosophically speaking). It's one of a kind. edit: smiley editII: Klc- Best restaurant in the country?? Is it referenced as such? But as I've mentioned above, they are quite clear. Menus may be tweaked, but I think they are skeletonized about 60 days out. If you don't like the selection you should be able to check and confirm or cancel your res. editIII: FWIW, My Lunch At Chez Panise cheers Nick

I think if you're in the area, a better choice would be Freelance Cafe. It's just down the street in Piermont. I was there yesterday (Thurs.) and lunch was head and shoulders better. No comparison really. Both in culinary philosophy, sourcing of ingredients, and execution. I hear from several trusted and respected sources, that The Baker's Wife (a sandwich shop also located in Tappan, NY) is a great bet for lunch also. Sorry folks, but IMO, the '76 House is a dowdy old frump living on past memories. In fact, my wife and I asked each other what Peter and Ned Kelly (Xavier's, among others) could do with this location. It is a great historical site. It's screaming for the Larry Forgione treatment. Nick

Peekytoe and Jonah crab are the same thing? So I've been told. But Nickn would know better. The peeky toe is incredibly fresh tasting and sweet. It has a similar texture to the meat from a Jonah claw. The claws are IQF (frozen) so they don't taste as nice. A little stringier to me. edit: Thanks Joe Gknl: Wanna Switch??? Nick

edit: Which begs the question why would *I* (25 year culinary pro, pretty extensive background in both NYC and NJ. A guy who seems to know his way around the current pantheon of au courant ingredients and cuisines), only order burgers. [/edit] I was afraid to. Dirty Water glasses, Freezer burnt rolls (really, the kind that have spent a month or two in there). Old dirty menus. General mustiness. You know the kind of place. I have too much respect for my stomach to gamble at this point. But you're quite correct. Ms. Rabat liked it. She ate more meals there than I did and she is the reviewer after all. So go ahead. Give it a try. Nick

This Weeks Reviews from The Record Alrighty now. The 76 House in Tappan. They liked it??? It must have been torn down, rebuilt, and reopened under new management in the month since I've been there. Truly one of the TOP 5 Worst meals I have ever (not) eaten (I was afraid to...truly) in my life. Dirty water glasses times two (yes, the replacement also). An autumn menu (she neglects to add, autumn 1947). Dinner rolls that tasted more of freezer than bread. She was kind in her criticism of the Onion Soup (crude impolitic bastard that I am, I just thought it plain sucked). Two Hamburgers, one bite for me, one bite for my wife and...Check Please! The old meat was left on the plate as we enjoyed our Frozen french Fry lunch. No inquiry from the rumpled waitstaff. Discretion is the better part of valor. I'm cuttin' my losses and gettin' outta Dodge. There is an air of neglect about this place that shouts "what a shame!" For it is a pretty setting and they could do so much more. Edible food would be a start. But go ahead. Give it a try...If you dare. Nick

Not to worry. It will all be tasting portions. Actually, I had to limit the number of courses. I wanted to "progress" the menu from tune ups (amuse) to cold/fish/room temp soup/warm fish, to hot/heavy/progressivly darker meat. Wine will be paired by the Dining Room Manager. I thnk we supply wine as well as bartender and waitstaff. Thanks all for your kind comments. Lizziee! Great to read ya! Nick

Sorry Nickn. I have a couple of sources of my own. I've been getting great "Top of the Catch" Cod and Striper. Terriffic Peeky Toe (jonah meat) and Fluke to die for. These guys that I use have really been looking out for me. The quality of their European stuff (Sardines Octopus etc.) is also great. Nick

No Jin, They come in cleaned. They are huge, though. About U-8 in size. All I have to do is remove the side muscle. They are among the freshest things I've ever encountered. Nick

Five cooks/chefs, five utility. I'll do most of the place myself. It's only for 10 people. Much place is done already (stocks, etc). I'll also get a pretty early start over the next two days. Nick

Back in August I was auctioned off to cook dinner for 10 in someones home. Well the date approaches (this Saturday) and after eating around all year and reading many magazines, I've completed the sourceing and the menu. I've decided on three amuse bouches: 1. "Bacon and Eggs" (a lift from T. Keller) (two sunny side up quail eggs with Pancetta and white truffled grits) 2. Lobster poached Cape Nedick Oyster (Lift from H. Keller) (Oyster poached in Lobster stock, place back into the shell warm, lobster gelee' and pea puree) 3. Foie Gras Burger (H. Keller again) (small Brioche roll with slab of Foie Gras and shallot marmalade) The main meal: "Crudo Trio" (Scuba Dived Scallop; Sashimi Fluke: and Bigeye Tuna all served raw with Laudemio Olive Oil and Fleur de Sel) Choux Fleur Vichyssoise with whipped Creme Fraiche and Sevruga Caviar. Seared very rare Tuna: White Beans, warm aioli wilted Frisee and Pancetta Gribenes. Intermezzo Boneless Quail rolled around Foie Gras layered with white Truffle. All wrapped in Savoy Cabbage Leaf with Quail jus Dry Aged Prime Loin de Boeuf; Yukon Gold Mash, Chanterelles and Haricot vert. Cabernet Sauce pre dessert: Porcelein Spoons of Saffron Rice Pudding Dessert: "Claudia Flemings" Chocolate Trio Truffles, petit four, madeleines Nick

Figure a rib lamb chop (you know, a slice off the rack) only much bigger as it's beef. Frenched merely means that the rib bone has been scraped of any extraneous meat providing a handle-like appendage made of bone. Nick

errr...Tommy plays drums. Nick

Absolutely Cabby! I will not stand for having certain plates covered. Get it out! Get it out fast! Get it infront of the diner quickly. Lest the residual heat kill the dish. Nick

Okay, I feel better. Nick

Yes. Nick

I would not. Nick

All excellent points, Fat Guy. However my only point is that this type of thing can be avoided altogether by having some floor staff who are hip to what is going on at their tables. I don't think a restauranteur should ever place his guests in the situation where a choice must be made in the first place. Nick