ngatti

The quote actually is: "If tyranny is to prevail, first kill all the lawyers." There is no mention of waiting if hot food is served at the execution. That's the last time I use a T-shirt as a source. Nick

"The first thing we do is kill all the lawyers." Nick

That may be so. I'll take you at your word and defer to your greater knowledge...BUT...In every Kitchen I've worked in, the food does not leave the kitchen if a diner is missing and if the diner gets up after plating, the waitstaff will about face the course and bring it back to the kitchen. FG, I didn't get too involved in the side thread that developed over this. The above explanation being my only experience with this. Bux had a good couple of points that agreed with you, but lizziee also had some on the con side of the argument. So while you are correct, restaurant service etiquette, within my experience (limited to NYC kitchens that I have worked in) says that a table should not be served if a diner is missing. Good waitstaff have a way of letting you know that a course is about to be served: "Sir the course will be out momentarily." There must be many ways to signal the arrival of the next course thereby mitigating the possibility of food served out of order Nick.

I assumed it was a seasonal menu. If it was especially constructed for our table, we were given no inkling. As it was just laying there along with the a la carte menu. Nick

Lespinasse rant Here's the link to the entire thread. The menu appears on the first post. Nick

The lespinasse tasting was 175 dollars per person. We left hungry. Nick

Thank you, Wilfrid. I had been put off by the high end, given our recent experience. This restores my faith. I shall attempt to give it a go. Nick

The Pompano was on a menu that I did a couple of months ago. I should have been clearer with the date on that one. It did sell well, as I have quite a few snowbirds as members. Pompano can be problematic up here (NJ). It is a fish, that in IMO, does not "sit about well". Freshness is critical. I don't run it unless the sourceing is perfect. Here is the dessert Menu for Dec 6. Berries en Coupe Vanilla Bean Whipped Cream Profiteroles Stuffed with Vanila Ice Cream and Drizzled with Hot Fudge Warm Maple Glazed Bananas on a Waffle with Banana Walnut Praline Ice Cream Apple Cider and Cinnamon Baked Apple with Dried Fruits and Nuts a la mode Warm Saffron Risotto Rice Pudding with Whipped Creme Fraiche all 6.50 An Assortment of Ciao Bella Ice Creams 4.75 Hagen Daz Sorbets 3.50 All desserts are by my Sous Chef Ken Hogh. I vet them, but he is responsible for the menu and execution. The Saffron risotto pudiing was roundly dislike by all (I loved it). The members probably thought it too strange and edgey. It was quite tasty (IMO). I finished 2 portions. Should buy stock in Novartis (makers of Novolog). These are only the specials, rachel. The chicken, steaks, chops, etc...don't change from week to week. They comprise some salads, a Shrimp Cocktail, and 5 main courses. The rest is mine and is expected to change daily. Thanks all Nick Nick

Jacques Pepin: La Technique/La Methode These have been collected into one volume, the title of it escapes me at the moment. Very very good basic culinary/kitchen technique. Not individual dishes but good solid musical training. How to form a "C" chord type of stuff. How to tune up to a reference point etc... This is "teach a man to fish" type of stuff. With these techniques, you'll nver be afraid to tackle any of the recipes in any book you may want to. In fact, you'll be improvising on those recipes as your skill level will be such that you can find the flaws in the recipes. You'll end up knowing how to cook stuff. Nick

Well there *was* veg with the striper. I just didn't write it out for the secratary to type and print. We served the grilled (charred asparagus). The menu was composed the day it was served. Generally what I do is collect the faxes and start talking to people about ingredients and freshness and quality on Tuesday morning. At the same time vague ideas are starting to form about dishes and seasonality. By Thursday the ingredients are collected. At this point all the main ingredients are ordered and one or two of the dishes may have started to gel based on what I've already ordered. On Friday morning I'm at my table actually writing the damn thing. This, with knowledge that all the principals have been ordered in quantity. Some dishes (the bass for example) are purposely left vague and skeletal. I simply don't have a firmer idea yet. It usually comes together by 3:00 PM or so. We open at 6:30. Sometimes you phone the garnish in, such as the bass. The asparagus was there and it seemed to fit. It was going to be broiled with a quasi-fiorentina type of motif. As the aioli was hanging about from one of the appetizers and I couldn't make the original idea (red wine, veal-based glace) work for the fish (to my satisfaction), I simply cobbled together a bunch of loosely related med/italian type ingredients for the Striped Bass. the hour was starting to get late and the cooks get skittish if I leave them hanging to long. In general as to garnishes sauces and sides I try to make things fit and balance. The juxtoposition of scallop (rich and buttery) with Foie gras (rich and fatty but in a different way). I want to showcase the Scallops as they're the first of the season. Some frissee to give height and a bit of unfatty bitterness and then add the sharp sweetness of the vinegar reduction. Potatoes and starches are placed as the spirit moves me. As I post this and reference the menu, I think that the fish dishes would have been a bit improved had I reversed the garnishes for them. But they still work as is. Some are less intellectual. After ordering all the ingredients and writing the menu I find I have yet to find a spot for the Five pounds of Fresh Gulf Shrimp and the 10 pounds of small Fresh Squid. The shrimp were expensive and I really should find a way to put them on the menu. Hence the frito Misto, coupled with some PEI Mussels that I had left from The previous day's menu. I liken menu composition to writing music. Trying to balance seasonal menu themes with the subthemes of the individual dishes. Th flavor notes of the discrete ingredients. The chord work of the sauces. Big flavors, blended flavors, solo flavors and ingredients. All with interesting flights of ingredient fancy. Then translate the music to the tongue/nose/service/wine sensory experience. The way I do it can be somewhat improvisational. Thanks all for your comments and interest. Nick

This weeks menu, December 6th, 2002: Only for One night but we did do 105 couverts. APPS: Creamy Polenta with Cepes, Black Trumpets de Mort, and Chanterelles 10.00 Celeriac Potage Parsnip Frizzle 6.00 Risotto with Oxtail Sugo 9.00 Potato Crisp Sevruga Caviar and Whipped Creme Fraiche, Fines Herbs 16.00 Crab Cake Chive Beurre Blanc and Vegetable Frites 11.00 "Surf and Turf" Hand Harvested Scuba Dived Scallops with Seared Foie Gras, Frisee, and Muscat Vinegar Syrup 18.00 A Composed Frito Misto Salad Mussels, Fresh Gulf Shrimp, Calamari, Frisee and Aioli 14.00 MAINS: Roasted Cod Filet Arugula Pesto Broth, Gaufrette Potato Stack and Charred Asparagus 21.00 Broiled Striped Bass Olive Oil and Garlic Whipped Russet Potaoes and Aioli 23.00 Nantucket Bay Scallops Seared and Served with Baby Spinach, Baby Vegetable Medley and carved Yukon Gold Potaoes. Fines Herb Beurre Blanc 22.00 First Cut, Short Loin Steak Grilled on the Bone: Served with Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes, Tomatoes, Roasted Sweet Onions and Peter Luger Sauce 35.00 Poussin Seared Under a Brick and Served with Mixed Baby Vegetables and Lemon Roasted Potatoes in a rich Jus 23.00 Nick

Nick, if you ever get down, we'll go to Atlantic Ave. in Brooklyn. You'll be in heaven. Nick

This weeks reviews, notably Il Capo in North Haledon As far as Maria Rabat's review of Villa Arturo; What can I say? It makes me glad I don't write restaurant criticism for a living. Nick

I use it here at the club. The old-timers seem to like it. Nick

Do tell? Tennessee or NY Titans? (How many readers caught that reference in ngatti's original post?) No doubt celebrating the Tennesee victory of the previous day. S'okay, I'm a Jets fan anyway. Being an ex NYC boy and all. edit: NY Titans :smack on head: Ouch!, how old do you think I am? Hey!, I only remember one season and that was B4 Saint Joe of William and Sir Weeb. Nick

I for one had a great time! Terrific talking to suzilightning. A women with mucho knowledge about many things. Rachels 'friend, Sandy was most charming, though we didn't get to talk much golf. Lou: Golf at Alpine as soon as the weather turns again. The restaurant is beautiful and the food great (those steaks didn't taste fried at all). Onetoughcustomer and oneslightlymoretendercustomer: Nice chatting about knives. You *know* what you're talking about. Kim: great talking over old times, but I'm sure you'll agree Thomas Wolf had something there (thank Gawd!) Dbrociner was at the other end of the bar so we didn't talk much, 'sides, he was wearing that Titans jersey. Rosie is so dreamy Thanks all Nick

Sorry they're late folks. Here are this weeks reviews. I haven't read them yet, but one is for McCormick and Schmicks at the Riverside Square mall. This past Friday's reviews in the Bergen Record Nick

Agreed Liza. It must be impeccably fresh, as I know yours is. I like it to come in with a little rigor. I think people who flat out don't like it, have never eaten it properly fresh. Nick

Looking forward to seeing all. Are there directions from I80 coming from the east? Nick

No wife. But I'll be there. Nick

Rosie - perhaps Nick should mention to Mrs Nick, the women of eGullet would love to meet HIM... That should do the trick!

Well I'm coming, but my wife is starting to hem and haw. Nick

Yes, that jibes with my experiences, though I'm no expert. McClanes Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery has a pretty good photo of a Steelhead under the Trout entry. Nice thread all. I enjoyed it. Very informative. Nick

You may be right, but the salmon-trout that we used to use ran smallish (like a coho). In my limited experience with steelheads, the flesh seemed to me more amber. Kind of like a char. In fact when I was cleaning some pretty good sized arctic char recently, I was struck by the similarity (color of the flesh, not the skin) to that long ago wild steelhead. Wild Steelhead. Something I miss. I remember that the pin-bones used to be a bear. I'll run to my AJ McClane later. It's out of date, but has good taxonomical info. Nick

Wife and I are still in. Next monday looks good. Nick