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She used the word "toothsome". (slowly I turn, step by step...) Nick

Maria Rabat at "Basilico" in Millburn Nancy Thorpe reviews "After Athens" Nick

I've recently used "beluga lentils". Thay seem to be about the size of the DePuy, but are a bit darker in color. Great texture after cooking. Nick

Whadayah mean. The vast majority of those restaurants were in the Southern reaches of the state. Ya know..below I-80. I haven't been to many of them...nosebleed. Nick

Ms. Hesser, As a professional food writer, do you find forums such as eGullet.com a sea change for the profession. The collective dining (and in some cases professional) rank and file assembling in one place offering considered and in many cases knowledgable opinion about almost all matters culinary. Is it to be viewed as a rich and valuable resource, a guage of the increasing sophistication of a writer's audience, or even a threat to traditional food jouralism? Is the instantaneous feedback something to be lauded or cursed? Are similar venues apt to provide outlet for your writing in the future? I realize there are many questions here, but I think they are all facets of the same stone. Thank you for your time and generosity. Nick

Links to The Record's reviews: David Bonom does Bel Vedere Nancy Thorpe does the Chelsea Grill Nick

Thanks all. The hardbound collection will have to do as I continue to search out individual issues. Nick

740 RT Bangkok. I'm seriously considering it. Now that the stage at El Bulli doesn't seem to be happening. Nick

No, not that trip. Only 4 days, so I structured it around Sf restaurants. I'm currently checking the net for destinations. what ever I do, it looks like I'll be traveling alone. Nick

Hey, we're having a get-together here in SF in a week and a half. The weather's kind of sucky right now though. and don't think I didn't consider going . The COPIA Food as Strength Symposium is occuring that weekend also. The Masters of Food and Wine is also going to take place during my time off. But I have a rather important dinner function on the Staurday and a wdding to attend on the Sunday. I wish i could clone me and attend everything. Nick

I found the $46.00 median price of a 205 bottle list to be interesting. At least 103 bottles less than $50.00. Nick

As "northjersey.com" has apparantly "tarted up" their front end, it seems that all the previous links to The Record restaurant reviews have been lost. You can find them by clicking on "entertainment" on the northjersey.com front page's left sidebar. A further click on the drop down "Dining" and then "Restaurant Reviews" should link you into the last two weeks reviews in descending date order. You'll have to do a search to find the others. Hope this helps Nick

Yes Steve, I tend to pay 1-3 dollars more per hour for general staff. The two sous chefs probably earn about 10k more than they would in a comparable luxury hotel. The general level of benefits also tends to be quite a bit better. Medical (employees contribute to this) and life insurance, long term disability insurance (a very valuable benefit), 401K, and paid vacations of from 1-4 weeks are comparable to the unionized luxury hotel that I'd worked in. The higher end clubs do tend to operate differently. Employees are more likely to be treated as old and valued retainers rather than mere faceless interchangeable kitchen 'parts'. I don't think these experiences translate well to real world free-standing restaurants. Private club F&B ops are subsidized by member dues and are in business to satisfy their collective memberships. Something that can be quite at odds with the profit motive. Hence the better pay and benefit level. Having said all this, I do have quite a bit of experience in Hotels of various service levels and restaurants over the past 25 years. the landscape vis a vis jobs and pay has been a constant evolutionary dynamic. From CIA grads being hired right from school as Exec Chefs back in the mid-70s at salaries in the mid twenties (a princely sum back then) to the current glut, as culinary schools (with the help and urging of the ACF perhaps) pump out the kitchen fodder. Remember there was a time (pre early 80s resto revolution) when there may have been a small handful of Culinary schools in existence. When I was doing research for culinary school there was only CIA and New York City Community College (now NY Tech) as contenders for a serious culinary education. At 24 years of age I was considered pretty old. I opted for neither not being able to afford the 10K at CIA or the time for a night school education at NYCCC. I took the back of the house, bottom up route; an option which I feel is much less viable today given the current state of the business. disclaimer: I have never in my life turned down a bonus or taken a pay cut. Nick

Here is the David Corcoran review from the NY Times. FYI: Tapas de Espana Nick

Here is the link to David Corcoran's review: FYI: My Cup of Tea Nick

Hi Jin, Kobe was very good. Extraordinarily and richly marbled. No purge in the bag. We made it very cold, but not frozen and sliced it thin with a bit of laudemio olive and white truffle oil. Very good. Interestingly, I ran into the Washington producers who had a booth at the NY Resto show. We're setting up an aging program with one of my local distributers. I'll keep you posted. As far as what I'll do with my time off...I'll try to get a life. Edit: The Kobe was from washington state, not Oregaon. I need more geography lessons re the Snake River. Nick

absolutely lizziee! I find the mag essential. I just rarely attempt to cook from it. Nick

350k/year??? The only guy who was *working* for somebody else that I ever recall coming close to that figure was Patrick Clark (I once heard 500K mentioned in connection with his name). But this was at Tavern which grosses well in excess of 20 million a year. Nick

Hi Steve, I have two sous chefs that are paid hourly. They are rated on a 40 hour a week salary (they are never paid less than 40 hours). Their overtime is a sliding *descending* scale. Bottom line is that both earn in excess of 50k per year. Line cooks (4) all currently earn 14.00/hr. This is what I pay my pantry, grill and sautee people. My utility staff (6) all earn at least 10.00/hour. Some very senior people earn 12-13/hour. My utility staff is the heart of my kitchen (prep, cleaning, general infrastructure). For the want of nail etc... This is my philosophy. Pay well and keep staff turnover to a minimum. Ninety percent of staff have been with me for at least three years, some have been here over 10. My two sous chefs have been with me going on five years. One sous chef is interviewing at another private club. I expect the going rate for a new hire exec chef to be 80k + bennies which may or may not include a car. I have been very fortunate. Nick

edit: Doublet Thanks lizziee. I've heard of these, but never seen them. If I can find some back issues (1-29) It'd be great. I don't hold out much luck though. Nothing on eBay and I can't see anyone parting with their issues. Although I have always felt that the recipes themselves were not tested. I have always felt that the food presented is absolute cutting edge. Nick

Cooking Light has the largest subsciber base of any food/culinary mag in America. FYI Nick

I think they (FL, Chez Panisse) are at complete opposite ends of the spectrum, different restos/culinary philosophies. I wouldn't even begin to compare them. As far as best/better/placing in categories. That is a side discussion taking place here that I am not involved in. My point being that Chez Panisse defies easy placement in such traditional categories. When I said "it is what it is", I think you misunderstood me within the specific contexts of the parts of the thread I was replying to. Nick

Last menu of the season. Off until March 7. January 17 & 18, 2003 APPETIZERS Penne with Oxtail Sugo...10. Torchon of Montrachet and Pear with Grilled Chorizo, Small Greens and Lavender Honey Vinaigrette... 11 Charred Octopus with Chick Peas, Frisee and Laudemio Olive Oil...10 Seafood Frito Misto; Fresh Gulf Shrimp, Sardines and Calamari with Aioli Drizzle...14 Seared Hamachi With Forbidden Rice, Red Chili Sauce and Vegetable Frizzle...12 Lobster Risotto with Perigord Truffle...16 Double Consommé with Mashed Apple Polenta, Foie Gras and Quail Eggs...14 Wagyu Kobe Beef Carpaccio; Oregon Kobe Beef Ribeye, White Truffle Oil and Fleur de Sel...17 Mains: CHEF’S SELECTIONS Seared Filet Mignon of Tuna; Cipollini and Roasted Tomatoes; Beluga Lentils...23 Pan Roasted Lamb Loin Filet; Eggplant Caviar, Rosemary Potato Crisps, Marguez Sausage and Parmesan Frico...26 Veal Osso Bucco; Creamy Polenta; Cepes, Chanterelles and Black Trumpet Mushrooms...24 Roasted Top Catch Cod; Served with Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes, Charred Asparagus and Prosciutto and Sage Frizzle...22 Dayboat Sea Scallops; Wilted Frisee, Lardons, Beets, Yukon Gold Potatoes and Red Wine Jus...24 Venison Chop; Savory Chestnut Filled Tuille, Creamy Polenta, Port Wine and Dried Peaches...27 Poussin Baked Under a Brick; Winter Vegetables and Fingerling Potato Roast...23 Cheers Nick

I've also been to Congee Village in the past year. I found the food merely edible, although a singular and interesting dining experience that I'm glad I experienced. I have an admittedly western palate. Perhaps that's what you meant when you were talking about the type of diner that Shun Lee Palace exemplifies (I have never been to Shun Lee West). My approach to Asian cuisines is quite an objective but inexperienced one. Having said that, I can only sample the flavors and textures without the cultural context that a "China Hand" would bring to the cuisine. However I like to think that my approach to flavors and textures within a broad culinary context is a quite an experienced, even a nuanced one. As is my ability to judge a *dining* experience within the context of that individual experience. That is to say that I as with most experienced diners have an ability to divorce food (flavor, texture, presentation) from table service, from bar service and from decor. By that definition, I stand by what I've said both for ShunLee Palace and for Congee Village. But yes, I do prefer the more luxe dining experience that Shun Lee Palace offers, and bottom line...my meals tasted good. I'm sorry that yours did not (and I don't dispute that they did not). Nick

Well I find Saveur pretty vapid (great photography though, IMO) Art Culinaire vapid? I only look at the pictures. Is there enough editorial content (writing) to consider it vapid? The recipes don't look like they work so I use them very generally. More as an ingredient guide. BTW, I'm looking for any issues from 1 to 29 (PM me), to complete my collection. I read Gourmet for Ruth Reichl's editorial. Nick