tupac17616

indeed

One that sticks out in my memory as being ridiculously delicious was the opener for the chef's degustation menu at Bouley... Goat Cheese/25-year-old Balsamic/Porcini "Yolk" /Goat Cheese Sorbet

I don't think I've posted to this thread before, but I'm always drooling over (er, uh, reading) it. But I figured it's time I join the fun... Marsala Zabaglione

Indeed. He is wise beyond his years.

Sounds like your observations are spot-on consistent with my experience. Now that I take a look back at pics/notes from those meals, looks like the lobster dishes at both places were indeed butter-poached. The lobster dish at J-G was butter poached maine lobster, lemon-paprika puree, salsify tagliatelle. The lobster at Bouley was (I think) maine day boat lobster with baby bok choy, parsnip puree, passion fruit and port wine-paprika sauce. I seem to recall asking the waiter about how the lobster was cooked, and he replied that he wasn't quite sure but was certain "it involved a LOT of butter". Sounds like butter-poaching to me! So maybe your idea above about shellfish taking better to butter-poaching than sous vide methods makes some sense. It definitely fits when I compare the lobster at these three places. While all three dishes yielded sweet and flavorful meat, there was something about the succulent texture of the dishes at J-G and Bouley that set them just a cut above. Now that's what I'm talking about. Looks like they don't mess around at the Dining Room. By the way, U.E., a bit off topic perhaps, but having eaten Per Se and several places in California (French Laundry, Chez Panisse, The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, etc), I wonder what advice you might offer me in my situation. I will be visiting California in August to visit a couple of schools, and I definitely want to try a few great restaurants while I'm there. Would going to French Laundry, for example, be a different enough experience than Per Se that I feel like it's something truly unique? Or would you suggest maybe one of the other places you've been to (or not been to, but have wanted to try)? I have never been to California, so it will all be new to me. A somewhat vague question, I realize, but I was just curious to get some insight from someone with some very well-traveled taste buds.

Well, here it is, three weeks after my meal at Per Se, and I've finally finshed my little write-up. Final exams and moving out at the end of the semester just didn't leave a whole lot of time for me to work on it. But better late than never I suppose. Here 'tis: SALMON CORNETS -- Sweet Red Onion Crème Fraiche TOMATO CONFIT -- Fines Herbes At times, the excitement of a tasting menu lies in its unpredictability, the whim of the “Chef’s Choice” luring us in. Other times, however, the excitement lies in knowing exactly what to expect, down to the tiniest detail. That was my pleasure in this opening dish. My pleasure was in knowing that Thomas Keller would source the absolute best salmon he could. Knowing he would not try to dress it up with overbearing garnish or condiment. Rather, he would present top quality fish, simply seasoned and allowed to speak for itself. This salmon did not need a loud back-up singer. The salmon, minced so finely it was practically pureed, took on a similar texture to the sweet red onion crème fraiche when it hit the tongue. Off in my own little world for an instant, closing my eyes in pleasure, the slight crunch of the tuile reminds me that this is not the most heavenly bagel schmear that has ever crossed my palate. This is, however, 4-star appetizing, if there ever were such a thing. “OYSTERS AND PEARLS” – “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Russian Sevruga Caviar What new perspective can one offer on a book so many have read, a painting so many have admired? This is one of Keller’s lauded signature dishes, and rightfully so. It is special. I take the first bite, and I, too, am a believer. Luxury by the mother-of-pearl spoonful. Subsequent bites reveal further intricacies. The buttery sabayon coats the tongue while the briny caviar pop and dance on it. The oysters keep this dish’s feet firmly planted in the sea, not to be overwhelmed by the landlocked richness surrounding it. The buried tapioca pearls remind you that they want to play, too, providing the perfect textural medium to bring everything together. Hmm, and is that a hint of vermouth? This dish is just plain sexy. It is everything you have heard about it, and then some. “TERRINE” OF HUDSON VALLEY MOULARD DUCK “FOIE GRAS” -- Washington State Rhubarb, Spiced Shortbread, Garden Mache, Rhubarb “Mignonette” and Toasted Tellicherry Pepper “Brioche” I must apologize in advance, for my ability to describe this dish is considerably hindered by my sheer veneration of it. I can say with absolute certainty that this is the single best thing I have ever had the pleasure of eating. When offered two different preparations of foie gras, seared and terrine, I almost always opt for the latter, as I feel the buttery unctuousness of the liver is better appreciated with hot preparations. Intrigued by the inclusion of rhubarb in this presentation, however, I opted for the terrine. Best decision I ever made. It was served neither so cool that some of the flavor is muted on the palate, nor so warm that one experiences an exponential decay of pleasure as the dish cools down, this was ideal. Presented at room temperature, the terrine had a wonderful consistency, yielding to the gentlest swipe of the knife. Whether spread on the toasted peppercorn brioche or simply enjoyed on its own, it was velvety smooth. The vibrant flavor of rhubarb was a worthy sidekick to the rich liver, shining through with sweet-tart brightness on every bite. The thin film gelee atop the terrine and captured the pure essence of rhubarb, as did the rhubarb pieces cooked sous vide on top, and the rhubarb mignonette along the side. The Meyer lemon crème smeared to the left was bright, refreshing, and just slightly acidic, rounding out the flavors on the plate wonderfully. The spiced shortbread crumble along the back of the plate added a wonderful textural component to the dish, and the peppercorn brioche came out thick and toasty. Halfway through the dish, a second slice came out, hot and fresh from the toaster. How did they know? Well, maybe they knew I would be savoring these flavors one Lilliputian bite at a time. Maybe they knew every texture, flavor, smell, and temperature in this dish had been orchestrated just right. Maybe they, too, knew that this dish was, quite simply, perfect. SAUTÉED FILLET OF ATLANTIC HALIBUT -- Spring Pole Beans, Heirloom Carrots, Pea Tendrils and Carrot “Consommé” As an avid home cook, these are the kind of restaurant dishes I particularly enjoy eating. The kind that are wonderfully humbling, the kind that teach you a thing or two. Even buying the freshest fish I could find, not in my wildest dreams would I have the technical proficiency to cook fish this well. I assure you that the knife provided before this course began was purely for show. This fish needed no such instrument for dissection. The slightest press of the fork was sufficient to break through the crisp seared top and reveal the ethereal flesh beneath. The mélange of spring vegetables beneath provided a clean, crisp, and light accompaniment to the fish. Anything more assertive would have overwhelmed the wonderful delicacy of it. The carrot consommé offered just the subtlest hint of carrot essence, another component speaking just loudly enough to be noticed but not upstage the star. Overall, a stellar springtime dish, just the type one craves this time of year. NOVA SCOTIA LOBSTER “CUIT SOUS VIDE” -- Tahitian Vanilla Bean-Scented White Asparagus, Braised Radishes and Black Winter Truffle “Mousseline” First, a confession: this was not the best lobster I have ever had. In fact, I have recently had wonderful preparations at both Jean Georges and Bouley that I enjoyed more. Placing this dish in such stellar company, though, is that such a bad thing? While the lightest stab with a fork was sufficient to pierce the flesh, cutting it required a bit more effort. Yet, is lobster ever really that easy to cut? I think not. Even a perfectly cooked crustacean is always a bit unyielding to such efforts. In this case, though, these efforts were not without reward – a workout with a purpose. The distinctive sweet flavor of the lobster was a fitting cheerleader for sous vide cooking, a method whose primary purpose seems to be locking in the inherent flavors of the ingredients. The vanilla flavor present in both the white asparagus and in the truffle sauce was a nice accompaniment for the lobster, as it always is, simply making the lobster taste more like itself. The white asparagus was tender if a bit stringy. But it was tasty. The braised radishes were a pleasant surprise, sweet and satisfying. And the truffle sauce had a subtle aroma just earthy enough to balance the sweetness of the other components. PAN ROASTED LIBERTY VALLEY PEKIN DUCK BREAST -- Anson Mills Yellow Corn Polenta, Sunchoke “Purée”, Sour Cherry “Marmalade” and Duck “Jus” After seeing what that kitchen could do with duck liver, I had no doubts that the bird itself would be stunning. And indeed it was. There were no special glazes or spices on the meat attempting to mask the duck flavor. Just a simply seasoned and properly roasted breast, with the thin layer of fat nicely seared and the meat a soft pinkish medium rare inside. The result was succulent and juicy. The sweetness of the sunchoke puree balanced the rich earthiness of the duck and its jus nicely. The polenta came in the form of a smallish square cake. Topped with a quenelle of sour cherry marmalade, this piece added both a textural component and a slight tartness that really worked nicely with the other pieces of the dish. One of the better dishes of the evening. Bravo. SNAKE RIVER FARM'S “CALOTTE DE BOEUF GRILÉE” -- Russet Potato “Gratin”, Creamed Ramp Tops, Morel Mushrooms, Crispy Bone Marrow and “Sauce Bordelaise” Classic American steakhouse meets four-star haute cuisine. A match made in heaven. I won’t lie... I honestly have no clue what a “Calotte” of beef is. Probably never will either. I asked the waiter, and I believe he mentioned it is some portion of the ribeye if I remember correctly. But quite frankly, it is irrelevant. I wouldn’t remember anyway. What I will remember, though, is the taste of this dish. Exquisite. The steak itself was a wonderfully tender medium rare. (Hmm, again the protein on the plate perfectly cooked. Am I the only one noticing a pattern here?) As much as I love creamed spinach, on its best day that dish could never quite touch these creamed ramp tops. They were garlicky, springy, and delicious. The potatoes were cooked sous vide. I’m not exactly sure why in this case, but is anything with this much cream and butter ever bad? I’m not sure what the morels were cooked in, but whatever it was, they soaked it up like a sponge. Along with the bordelaise sauce, they added a nice earthy element to the dish. Last but certainly not least was the bone marrow, fried in a crispy shell on top of the meat, like a present waiting to be unwrapped. In a word: unctuous. Did I mention I love bone marrow? Well, I do. So you might say I liked this dish. Or you might just say I loved it. “CONE DU PORT AUBRY” -- Roasted Young Beets, White Wine Poached Granny Smith Apples, Sorrel Leaves and Red Beet Essence I am always a little wary of the cheese course in a multi-course tasting format such as this one. Its composition often seems like an afterthought, an intermission, a commercial while we wait for the real show to come back on. Some restaurants find it adequate to provide a paltry hunk of cheese (which is inevitably perfectly ripened, magnificently matured, artisan select or some other bit of menu poetry) , some apple slices, and maybe a piece or two of toast. This kind of simplicity is not what I look for at a restaurant at this level. I, too, can shop at Murray’s Cheese Shop. Other restaurants skip the cheese course altogether, a tragic omission if you ask me. Thankfully Per Se did not join the ranks of either of those camps that evening. I thought this was really a lovely composition, tip-toeing the line nicely between simplicity and over-complication. The Cone du Port Aubry was a slightly tangy goat cheese, great on its own with a drizzle of a bit of olive oil and some cracked pepper. The roasted young beets, then, came as no surprise. There are few flavor combinations more ubiquitous than beets and goat cheese. But hey, if it ain’t broke… The poached granny smith apples maintained some of their naturally tart flavor, but the wine toned that down just a bit and created a really nice palate cleansing effect. Very nice. A small smear of port wine glaze also graced the plate, adding a pleasant sweetness at the end. Every component on the plate really sang on its own. Together, they were symphonic. PERSIAN LIME SORBET -- Hass Avocado “Coulis”, “Petite” Mint, Lime-Scented Pineapple and Hibiscus Foam I am not usually a sorbet person, often preferring the creamier texture of ice cream and gelato. The clarity of flavor that can be achieved in good sorbet, though, is something I can’t deny. This sorbet was a wonderful example of that clarity – clean, acidic, and refreshing. The hibiscus foam atop the sorbet was surprisingly flavorful, and left me wondering, how do they extract foam from a flower, anyway? The avocado coulis was creamy and subtle, and the familiar combination of avocado and lime worked well. The lime-scented pineapple pieces were pleasant, but nothing special. The petite mint had petite flavor, and seemed a garnish more for looks than for taste. I don’t recall exactly what it was, but the crunchy streusel-like crumble under the sorbet was a nice touch, adding some necessary texture to the dish. Overall I thought this dish was a nice first act for the sweeter side of the meal. “TENTATION AU CHOCOLAT, NOISETTE ET LAIT” -- Milk Chocolate “Crémeux”, Hazelnut “Streusel” with Condensed Milk Sorbet, “Pain au Lait” Sauce and Sweetened Salty Hazelnuts Being a Nutella freak, the first thing that popped into my head when I read the description of this dish was that delicious spread. The combination of chocolate and hazelnut is just a beautiful thing. Mmm, Nutella… But I digress. This was a very solid dessert, its flavors and textures nicely balanced. The milk chocolate crémeux had a wonderful airy texture, like a light mousse or pot au crème. Topped with a few stray crystals of fleur de sel and a line of sweet & salty hazelnuts, the flavor was incredible. The condensed milk sorbet was pleasantly sweet and not at all cloying as one might expect from such a sweet ingredient. The texture was also soft, smooth and creamy, which I really enjoyed. The hazelnut streusel underneath the sorbet was also both sweet and salty, offering a nice counterpoint of both flavor and texture when combined with the sorbet. The sauce drizzled along the top of the plate was a simple bittersweet chocolate sauce, but I don’t recall what the other sauces on the plate tasted like. While the sauces lined across the plate make for a beautiful presentation, I felt like their inclusion in the dessert was a bit of an afterthought flavor-wise, almost unnecessary as they didn’t really seem to mesh really well with the main parts of the dish. It’s hard to complain, though, with so much chocolate-hazelnut goodness on one plate. Mmm, Nutella… Hey, who said that?! “RHUBARBE ET VANILLE” -- Pink Peppercorn-Scented Rhubarb “Cuit Sous Vide”, Madagascar Vanilla “Crème Chiboust”, “Sablé Breton au Beurre Salé” and Mascarpone Sorbet This dessert was actually not part of the chef’s tasting, but once I read the description on the vegetarian menu, I knew that I had to try it. So right after the lime sorbet, and just before the chocolate dessert was going to be brought out, I meant to ask the waiter if we might try this in addition to the other desserts (expecting, of course, to incur some supplemental charge to do so). But before I could even finish telling him how I thought that it sounded delicious, he had offered to bring one for the table on the house. Definitely an offer we couldn’t refuse. (I should also note that they brought out their “Coffee and Donuts” dessert with a candle in it for my friend who would be celebrating a birthday in a couple of days. Another very nice gesture that left us with a table literally full of desserts and content smiles on our faces.) This dessert definitely did not disappoint. It was my favorite of the three. The vibrantly red rhubarb cooked sous vide was tender and flavorful. The vanilla crème chiboust was small blocks of custard atop a crumb crust. Slightly salty, the crust really elevated the vanilla and rhubarb flavors nicely. The mascarpone sorbet, like the others before it, had the smoother, thicker texture of gelato. The sable Breton underneath the sorbet acted as the hazelnut streusel had in the previous dessert, a wonderful crunchy, salty top note to really round out the flavors in each bite. The vivid red rhubarb sauce pooled on the plate was a smooth finish. “MIGNARDISES” And so the parade of sweets continued… Two of us were given apple pots au crème, while the other two received a mini crème brulee. These petite serving dishes allowed for every bite to include some of the crispy caramelized sugar top. And after all, that’s what crème brulee is all about, is it not? The interior was smooth and delicious, with abundant flavor imparted by vanilla bean specks throughout. Even in such a small package, definitely one of the better versions of crème brulee I’ve ever had. But at this restaurant, it was just one of the freebies after the meal. Ridiculous. Next up the waiter arrived with a tray full of beautiful hand crafted chocolates, offering eight different kinds to each of us. Infinite appetite that I have, I chose all that sounded good to me, passing on only the mint and bourbon offerings. From left to right, top to bottom, my choices were macadamia nut, fleur de sel, lavender, brown butter, pomegranate, and orange blossom honey. I’m not usually a big chocolate guy, but all of these were delicious, my favorite probably being the pomegranate. So by now, we’ve had three regular desserts (actually the birthday boy has had four), crème brulee or pot au crème, and chocolates. But why stop there? The three-tier silver tray was chock full of more goodies. Homemade caramels were dark, buttery and rich. Nougat with pistachios was chewy and crunchy at the same time. Three kinds of truffles – dark chocolate with raspberry ganache, milk chocolate with dark chocolate ganache, and coconut dusted white chocolate with coconut ganache – were all outstanding. At this point, I pretty much just don’t know what to say anymore. Some chocolate covered almonds. Because God knows we need some snacks at this point. There just hasn’t been quite enough food yet. Turns out almonds are one of my companion’s favorite foods. How convenient. After having spent nearly four hours at the table, it almost seems as though my sole purpose in life is to eat. And what can I say? Life is good. With the check came some lovely macaroons – vanilla, raspberry, and pistachio. Pistachio macaroons are always a favorite treat of mine, but all three of them were delicious. The crisp meringue exterior gave way to a meltingly soft interior. Easily on par with the best macaroons I’ve enjoyed in the city. And once again, just a freebie at the end of the meal. What can I say? Quite a place, this restaurant. I’ve had many great meals in my life, and at the young age of twenty one, I look forward to the possibility of many more. Somehow, though, I get the impression that this one will stick with me for quite a while. There is something special about a place that manages to make each guest feel like they are the only one in the restaurant, a VIP with a backstage pass. That pass this particular night came in the form of a kitchen tour after the meal, offered to us as we were seated after a small exchange with the captain in which my overwhelming excitement must have somehow betrayed my passion for all things food. (It seems the staff actually listens to what you have to say at this particular restaurant. Imagine that.) During the tour, I asked whether or not Chef Benno was in the house. A few moments later, he graciously stepped out of a teleconference meeting to meet us. I thanked him and his staff for a wonderful meal and told him what an honor it was to meet him. The staff milling around the kitchen was all smiles, thanking us for joining them for dinner, expressing their hopes that we enjoyed the meal, and offering us more of those delicious macaroons. They seemed to be almost as happy as we were. NYT reviews and Michelin stars notwithstanding, every restaurant makes mistakes. Which makes me feel all the more lucky as I look back on a culinary experience at a place that, on that night, was just about perfect. Expensive? Definitely. Worth every penny? Without a doubt. My new benchmark for just how wonderful a restaurant experience can be.

My thoughts exactly. Get thee to your pantry to find some flour, post-haste!

Sure. I learned about it from this site, actually. Don't recall which thread, might have been this one. Anyhoo, all you do is take a small piece of saran wrap, spray it with cooking spray (so that stuff does actually have some use after all), crack an egg in the center, grab up the edges and tie it shut with a twisty tie or rubber band, and then cook in simmering water until the whites are set. That sentence had far too many commas, but I hope it helped!

Wow that looks delicious FoodMan! Nice job! For mother's day, this was part of what I made my mom... Eggs Norwegian -- Poached egg with hollandaise, smoked salmon, and asparagus on a toasted multigrain english muffin It was my first time making hollandaise sauce, and I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was. Also the first time I've used the saran wrap method for poaching eggs. That method was quick and easy, and the result was very nice, I thought. I'll definitely be using that more in the future.

For me, it's bucatini. I love its toothsomeness when properly cooked.

I've got a reservation for next Tuesday night at Per Se. It will be the first time dining there for all four of us, and we are all definitely excited. In the mean time, I've got a few questions I was hoping some of my fellow eGullet-ers might shed some light on... **I seem to remember a while back hearing about a "2x2" tasting menu, or something like that, in which each diner received a different dish for each course of the tasting. Does this option still exist at Per Se, and if so, is this something I need to request when I call to confirm the reservation of something I would ask for when we get there? Is there an extra cost involved? **A while back, there was an article in the Times about a non-alcoholic beverage pairing. Has anyone here done that or heard anything about it? How much does it cost? Is it worth it? It's an option I might look into, as I'm only 21, and my wine palate in incredibly underdeveloped at this point, so I don't have much clue as to what I like or dislike. All I tend to drink regularly are sweet dessert wines, and I highly doubt they'll be pairing every dish with, say, Moscato d'Asti, my favorite wine at the moment **What are the best supplement options? I am sure many of these will be offered to us anyway, but are there certain special requests one must ask for in advance? I know truffles aren't in season now, so that won't be an option. I know about the foie gras supplement ($30, right?). While I tend to prefer seared foie gras, is there typically a clear winner between the hot and cold preparations at Per Se in your opinion? Now I see the Wagyu beef supplement cchen mentions above. But are there any other notable ones to be aware of? **What are the odds that the four of us might be able to get a tour of the kitchen after the meal, given the fact that none of us are exactly restaurant insiders? Is this something you would recommend I ask about in advance or simply politely ask our waiter the night of our meal? Many thanks for any help y'all might be able to provide.

Great cream puffs, you say? Sounds like I may have to give it a try sometime in the very near future. Thanks for the tip!

Breakfast today was simple but beautiful: Dried Kiwi with Fresh Ricotta

Could you tell me a bit more about Soutine? I've never heard of it before. And is the other bakery you are talking about Levain, on 74th? Just curious to know if I might need to head out to do some, er, research, sometime soon.

It was the Wall Street branch. I'd walked into the branch kind of near Macy's one time when I was waaaay to full to eat another ounce, but I picked up a menu and had been meaning to give the place a try sometime. Found myself in the Wall Street area last week, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Too bad the sandwich was such a dud, but, hey, guess I should look on the bright side. There was, of course, Financier Patisserie for consolation.

When you wake up at 2:30 PM, somehow this qualifies as breakfast.... Spaghetti alle Vongole

I tried Starwich for the first time last week. Had the Soft Shell Crab BLT and felt incredibly cheated and unexpectedly disappointed. The soft shell crab itself was miniscule (although I understand that may have something to do with the seasonality of soft shell crab, which is something I know very little about). If the main ingredient of a sandwich does not cover more than half of the sandwich (i.e. I could have taken the crab and put it between one half of the sandwich once the sandwich has been cut in half), then we have a problem. The coating on the crab somehow managed to be both gritty and soggy at the same time. The bacon was overcooked and very tough. The bread was clearly stale although some of the staleness had been covered up by the fact that it was toasted. The tomato was ridiculously bland (again, a seasonal thing, I understand, but c'mon!). Just one bad thing after another. The only reasonably tasty part of the whole thing was the aioli, but good aioli does not a good sandwich make, I'm afraid. Was this bad experience a stroke of bad luck or did I just make a bad menu choice? What am I missing here people? I found myself intrigued by all the ingredients they offer in the build-your-own category, but I think it would take a miracle to get me back there after that atrocity of a sandwich.

Unfortunately I didn't have any bucatini (my favorite pasta...I love its toothsomeness) around tonight, but I did have some guanciale that had yet to be used. What better calling for that porky goodness than: Spaghetti all'Amatriciana (before & after sprinkling of Pecorino Romano)

Finding myself joining a couple of friends at Room 4 Dessert without having had dinner yet, I quickly stopped in here for a couple of tacos to go a few weeks ago. I was pleasantly surprised. The cactus and egg taco was merely good. But the grilled fish taco was outstanding. Incredibly moist and juicy and really bursting with flavor. I could see myself stopping in again sometime for a couple of fish tacos if I were in the neighborhood and looking for a snack.

Thanks Mike. I found the guanciale at Dean and Deluca in SoHo. They have always had a sign up for it at both Fairway locations, but every time I asked for it they either told me they didn't have it ("Then take down the sign...you're just teasing us!" I always thought to myself ), or they would try to tell me that the lardo they had is "basically the same thing" . Also looked many times with no luck at Citarella, Zabar's, Garden of Eden, etc. Odd thing is that I had also looked for it several times at Dean and Deluca before to no avail, but when I asked the guy behind the counter this time why it was so tough to find, he told me that they always carry it. So who knows. Anyway, I was definitely glad to finally find a source for it.

Finally found some guanciale! I didn't think it would be that difficult to track down in NYC, but if I had a dime for every person behind a meat counter that looked at me like an idiot when I asked for guanciale, I'd be a rich, rich man. Anyhoo, I finally have my beloved pork cheek, and the first of several meals using it had to be some good ol' Spaghetti alla Carbonara:

I suspect Sneakereater's reply above was not a smartass answer but rather his way of trying to convey how incredibly nice and accomodating the Room 4 Dessert staff is. And if so, I definitely agree with him on that account. Oh, and just fyi, on my two visits, I saw everything from hockey jerseys to suits and ties. Just wear whatever you feel like wearing. Go. Eat. Drink. Enjoy. It's a fun place.

On another random note, made it back to Kreuz in Lockhart this past weekend. The ribs and sausage were outstanding, just as I had remembered. But the prime rib. Dear God, the prime rib. The stuff dreams are made of...

Made a nice BBQ discovery last week when I was home in Texas for spring break. My brother had a competition in College Station, so during an intermission in the afternoon, what better way to kill time than drive around in search of some good food? Knowing the Bryan/College Station area is not exactly food heaven, I figured we might have our work cut out for us, but I insisted we hit the road and look for something beyond the terrible chain restaurants that seem to rule the area. Driving around randomly in Bryan, a beatiful barbecue aroma enters the car, and we know that's our signal that it's time to stop. Fargo's Pit BBQ. We order a sampler with pork spare ribs, brisket and sausage. (A couple of sides were included, too, but, ahem, there is meat to talk about...). The brisket and sausage are decent, not great, but the ribs are wonderful. Not quite as good as, say, Kreuz in Lockhart, for example, but some mighty fine ribs. Best I'd eaten in quite a while actually. So next time you're in the Bryan/College Station area, fear not, lovers of good 'cue. Sometimes all you have to do is follow your nose to the good stuff.

Seeking a way to kind of celebrate the end of the first half of a difficult semester and ease nicely into spring break, two friends and I tried out Del Posto last Thursday evening. Knowing they had a 1-month-in-advance reservation policy, I figured I'd call that afternoon and see if they might have any cancellations. The result? The nice receptionist offers a 9:00 table for four. Sweet. Three of us arrive at the restaurant at around 8:45 (after quite a walk from the subway station, by the way...this place is not exactly the most accessible place I can think of). We wait outside for a bit, but our fourth has not arrived by this time, and is not answering his phone, so we decide to head inside. First thought: whoa, this place is big. On second thought, it's damn near massive. A staircase directly in front of us leads downstairs, the bar is off to our left, piano music comes from over by a second staircase that leads up to the balcony level. We stand there dumbfounded for a few seconds taking it all in before the hostess comes over to greet us. Telling her we are still waiting on the fourth member of our party, she asks if we would like to wait in the bar/lounge area for a bit until he arrives. Sure, we say. By the time 9:20 rolls around, we are getting hungry, so we ask to be taken to our table. Expecting to encounter a stern face and short speech about not seating incomplete parties, we instead receive a smile and are quickly led to our table. Water comes, wine list comes, the waiter kindly mentions that there is no hurry, as the table is ours for the rest of the night. 9:45 rolls around, the three of us are quite hungry by now, so we give up on our AWOL friend and ask the waiter for menus. The menu is huge. Too big if you ask me. And for someone who dislikes as few foods as I do, it is an indecisive diner's nightmare. Several items on the Traditional Tasting Menu ($120) sound wonderful to me, but neither that menu nor the Del Posto Tasting Menu ($120) is an option due to my friend's dietary restrictions. So we decide to go a la carte. Here is what we had: First of all, the bread. Oooh, the bread (1). Five or six different kinds of bread are brought out as we peruse the menus. Focaccia, semolina rolls, baguette, whole wheat rolls, and bread sticks fresh and hot from the oven. Add a bit of wonderfully soft butter and fluffy whipped lardo, and the meal is off to a great start. Mmmm lardo. ANTIPASTI: I ordered the Cauliflower Sformato with Skate Salad ($15) (2), which I enjoyed immensely. The sformato was a silky smooth custard. The grapefruit and vinegar that accompanied the skate offered a nice tangy and bitter counterpoint to the natural sweetness of that fish. Overall, I thought the flavors in this dish worked quite well together and were perfectly balanced. One friend of mine had the Vegetable Fritto Misto with Bagna Cauda ($15) (3). I did not get a chance to taste this, as he loved it so much that he wouldn't part with a bite for the other two of us, but it looked wonderful. And luckily for me, he is not a big anchovy fan, so he passed on the bagna cauda (basically anchovy and olive oil) to me, which I enjoyed as a third bread accompaniment for the rest of the meal. The other friend had Seafood Salad with Seaweed and Borage ($19) (4). This dish was not so successful. She did not come close to clearing her plate, and you could definitely tell by the look on her face that she did not particularly enjoy it. After trying a few pieces of it myself, I can't say that I blame her. I thought it was both bland and overcooked, not the greatest combination of attributes. PRIMI: I wanted to do the tasting of three pasta dishes for $27, but this option was only available to the whole table, and again my friend's dietary restrictions made this impossible. Oh well. Next time. Anyway, I had the Chestnut Ravioli with Partridge and Myrtle ($24) (5). This dish was merely mediocre, not bad but not great. The ravioli filling was smooth and somewhat sweet. The accompanying partridge meat was tender and flavorful. I didn't think the myrtle added much to the dish. Overall, I think the flavors in this dish were too one-dimensional. There was no real depth to the flavors. Every bite was the same. I think a little bit of spice, perhaps just a sprinkling of hot pepper flakes, would have elevated this dish nicely. My two friends shared the Risotto with Barolo and Castelmagno ($50) (sorry, no pictures). Resting on a vibrant orange bed of carrot puree, the risotto looked tasty, but I did not get a chance to try it out for myself. They both seemed pleased with the choice, but it merited no particular raves from either one of them. SECONDI: Having the equivalent appetite of a normal family of four, I was the only one to opt for a secondo piatto in addition to all we'd already had. I was tempted by the Cacciucco, a seafood soup the waiter enthusiastically recommended as one of his favorite things on the menu. Yet, once I saw one particular item on the menu, I knew I'd have to try it....Bollito Misto with Traditional Condiments ($35) (6, 7, 8). I had never had this dish before, and had never even seen it on a menu, so I was excited to try it out. The meats were Veal Shank, Beef Short Ribs, Beef Shoulder, Pork Trotter stuffed with Zampone, Calf Tongue, and perhaps something else I am forgetting. The condiments were a very tasty fruit mostarda, salsa verde made simply with olive oil, garlic, and herbs, and horseradish based sauce that included diced pieces of pear. Also, before I knew it, the one of the wait staff had grated a generous amount of fresh horseradish (one flavor I HATE, by the way) all over the meat. Grr. I suppose I should've realized what was happening and just told him I'd prefer not to have horseradish, but what can ya do. Hindsight is always 20/20. Anyway, overall, I thought this dish was good but not great. The meats were juicy and tender for the most part. My favorite of the bunch was probably the veal shank, which was fork tender and full of flavor. Least favorite was probably the beef shoulder, which I found tender but largely tasteless. The rest of the meats were tasty as well, but nothing particularly stands out as being exceptional. I enjoyed the accompanying condiments on their own, but didn't feel the flavors worked particularly well when paired with the meats. I figure they are just a convenient diversion from the fatty richness of the meats. I am glad to have tried bollito misto, and I'd be glad to try out other restaurants' renditions, but I wouldn't be itching to order this dish again on a future visit to Del Posto. FORMAGGIO: Surprise, surprise, I am the only one of the three of us to opt for a cheese course. Have my companions really waved the white flag so soon? Anyhoo, this cheese course is a Taste of Three ($16) (9) different Parmigiano cheeses, aged 2 years, 4 years, and 6 years. The cheeses are accompanied by Aceto Tradizionale di Modena, Lambrusco Jelly, Honeycomb, and Pear Mostarda, as well as two hot mini baguettes. The condiments were quite tasty, aside from the pear mostarda, which literally took my breath away as it opened up my sinuses. For someone who dislikes horseradish, not such a thrilling sensation. The cheeses were wonderful. Between the 2-year and 4-year, I did not notice much difference, aside from the fact that the 4-year cheese's flavor seemed to linger on the tongue a bit longer. The difference between those two and the 6-year, however, was night and day. The 6-year aged cheese needed nothing. No bread. No condiments. Niente. If you ask me, this cheese is near perfection. I can't imagine a plate of pasta worthy of being graced with its presence. DOLCI: For dessert, I chose the Apricot Cassata di Gelato ($15) (10) -- Almond Cake, Baked Meringue, and Apricot-Moscato Brodo. This Italian version of baked alaska was wonderful. The meringue housed a smooth mound of vanilla gelato and apricot sorbetto. The cake was nice and moist. The meringue was just slightly sweetened, just enough to be flavorful without being the least bit cloying. Great combination of flavors, temperatures, and textures. Very nice. One friend ordered the Budino di Fichi ($15) (11) -- Warm Fig Pudding, Pomegranite Sorbetto, Zabaglione, Salty Caramel. He seemed to enjoy it, but didn't really say too much about it. But again, he didn't share, so it must not have been too bad He and my other friend also each ordered the Assagi di Cioccolato ($18) (12) with three accompanying rums. This was a very generous serving, even if it was for two people. And with three pretty generous pours of rum, the $18 price tag starts to seem more reasonable. I tried the three chocolates (64%, 72%, and 90% if I recall correctly), but was not particularly moved by any of them. Then again, I am not a big fan of dark chocolate, so I guess that was to be expected. I didn't sample the three rums, as I don't drink much besides the occasional glass of wine, but the two of them seemed to enjoy the offerings. If all of that food hadn't been enough, a cart full of several kinds of petit fours (13) makes its way over to our table, and we are given a few of each. The icing on the cake of what had evolved from a meal into an all-out feast. THE DAMAGE: $220 pre-tax for the three of us (after a manager very kindly removed the two chocolate tastings from the bill after a timing mix-up that brought the two chocolate tastings and my friend's dessert simultaneously while my dessert lagged several minutes behind. An unsolicited, unnecessary, but very kind gesture on his part.) THE SERVICE: Present and attentive without being overbearing. The sheer number of servers present at the table carving, pouring, plating, etc at any one time can approach hilarity. I think at one time I counted six different people around our table at the same time. And frankly, I think much of the table-side pageantry borders on parody as well, but that's just me. It just seems so rehearsed and unnatural (especially in comparison to the much more polished service at Jean Georges a few weeks prior, but that is another thread). For the most part, though, we were pleased with the service. THE FOOD: Flashes of brilliance (cauliflower sformato) and beautiful simplicity (6-year aged parmigiano) mixed with occasional blatant mediocrity and blandness (seafood salad). THE VERDICT: I will be likely be back at some point, but not necessarily any time soon. I enjoyed the meal, but not as much as my three visits to Babbo. On tap for next time: gnocchi, spaghetti with crab and jalapeno, and pici with cibreo and black truffles. Oh, and maybe a little Cacciucco as well. Then either the strudel or zabaglione for dessert. THE PICTURES (sorry, a little dark and blurry ):