lizziee

I remember having a sea urchin soup at Gagnaire that was absolutely fantastic - the ammonia taste was not there and the texture was velvety and smooth, although you knew you were eating sea urchin. I have a source that will ship sushi grade quality sea urchin, so I am not too concrned re quality. My source is:http://www.catalinaop.com/uni.htm Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you can't think of a soup, is there another appetizer that that you can think of? I have the one from Union Pacific.

I would love to make a sea urchin soup. Does anyone have a recipe?

La Pyramide is a 2 star, L'Oustau is a 2 star, Le Moulin is also a two star ( it was down to one, but it just got its second this year) La Pere Bise, I think is a one star and I definitely know that the other two are not three stars, but I am not sure they are still in existence or their Michelin ranking.

I thought I would not be able to answer this question, but I've given it a lot of thought and I am now going to disappoint some of you and not mention the restaurant out of respect for the chef. The best restaurant experience I ever had was eating one of the most beautifully prepared and exquisitively served meals. It was an incredible meal that he created at the moment. The chef, after dinner, sat at our table and we talked food and wine for quite a while. The restaurant was closing up and we were still talking and he said,"Come to my house." Of course, we went and after a couple more hours of talk, we all got hungry. We ran to the 24 hour market, he picked up tomatoes, cream and eggs and "scrambled" them - a dish that he often had had in Paris after a night of working. More talk, more experiences, an incredible friendship. It just doesn't get better than that for me.

Cabrales, Bux is correct - you are one in a million in the best sense of the word.

Bux, So very, very true or be careful what you wish for. When our son was a junior in college, we offered to treat him to a trip to Paris for his spring break. We envisioned him persuading one of his friends to join him to take in the bistros of Paris. He's not a dumb kid and instead invited his mother to accompany him. His inexpensive little jaunt became what he knew his mother would deliver, particularly with my credit card. He just had to eat at Pierre Gaganire, Taillevent, Le Divellec (he still talks about the turbot) etc. He, then, spent a summer in Paris doing a stage. Oh well, at least he saves McDonald's for those "hung-over" days.

Bux, We are exactly of similar minds. I do see the tasting menu as a relection of the chef's art. It is the way he wants us to view the meal as a whole. Hopefully, it becomes a symphony - one course building and leading to another. Also, it is nice that I don't have to think this process through myself - I can enjoy the meal, without having to conduct the symphony myself. Your observation on specialities is what I was referring to re Georges Blanc. I think the kitchen is bored to death making the Bresse Chicken au G7 and it definitely comes out a "tired" dish.

This was brought up in the Q and A with Lidia and I think it is a topic worth exploring. I have had dinner at different chefs' homes with their children and the kids are just as intractable as my own was. We introduced our son to everything, but he still prefered pasta, pizza, rice etc. We would be invited to a French Sunday lunch and he prefered to stay home and order take-out, delivery. We kept on plugging and kept on introducing him to fine cuisine and he grudgingly went along. Finally, when he was about 17, he saw the light. He has become very wine and food knowledgeable and is currently in the business of fine dining. BUT, it took time and patience. Therefore, I think you have to expose children to different cuisines, tastes etc. but also let them be kids and eat McDonald's. Further, I think it is important to not make an issue out of every meal. Please forgive - The word is SAVVY!

Sadly, I have to agree with Cabrales that the duck Apicius is a shadow of what it once was. The first time I had it, it was extraordinary. The crunch of the coriander in the skin was a remarkable sensation - such a jolt of spice that there was just a hint of the sweetness. The last time, about a year ago, that I had the duck Apicus it was awful. It was cloyingly sweet and dripped with honey. My best meals at Lucas Carton, in recent years, have been at lunch ordering the prix fixe menu, which is a bargain at a three star in Paris. One dish, that was a standout, was a pigeon tart with Moroccan spices. By the way, right across from Lucas Carton is a wonderful wine store that specializes in Armagnac, Chartreuse Tarragon (the only place that I have found that sells it) and other digestifs. Definitely worth checking out.

Cabrales, I am hoping that your experience at Auberge de I'll is a temporary anomaly as we have reservations for 1 lunch and 2 dinners in September. I have never been there so I can't comment at all. I would agree with Beachfan, however, that "good service" should have picked up the fact that you had not eaten the foie gras. When I leave a significant portion of food uneaten, normally someone from the waitstaff will ask if everything is all right. Of course, it is much easier when you are not a solo diner and can compare notes and thoughts with a dining companion - a kind of solidarity in numbers. Also, I agree with Cabrales that there is a major difference between spoilage and preparation. The former is unforgiveable and the latter is always a subjective experience. Many, many years ago, on our first extensive trip to France, we were served very rare duck. I was aghast - what is this raw stuff. I had never eaten rare duck in the States and my palate, at that point, was definitely uneducated. Of course, I have come to love rare to medium rare duck, but back then, I was put off by the preparation. Bux, I don't think there is a set standard for ordering menu vs. carte, but you rightly remembered that I prefer ordering the "tasting" menu, particularly at the first meal. This gives me a "feel" for the cuisine. On subsequent meals, I will try to order "signature" dishes but, as I prefer tasting portions, will often ask for "1 for 2." Most times, this can be accommodated. I have not found, however, that menu items tend to be more mini-assembly line processes. If anything, the menu items reflect what is fresh in the market.

Basildog, Great idea! Just say, your table is still ready for you until 3:00 am

Marcus, I couldn't agree with you more. I think that is why people find Georges Blanc's food tired. They insist on ordering the old stand-bys and then judge the restaurant against today's cuisine. To quote myself in another thread: "Georges Blanc has changed greatly, particularly last year. Frederic, his son, is now in the kitchen and the menu, even the cover, has been updated. We had two excellent meals last year that were far from stodgy. I might be a minority of one about Georges Blanc, but hate to see him dismissed since his son has taken over. On the first night our menu, called "De Mer et D'Eau Douce" was as follows. Daurade Legerement Fumee, Beignet d'Oignon Mauve et Caviar - this was an extraordinary dish of lightly smoked, thinly sliced Daurade that was topped by a yolk quenelle (chopped yolk with a light touch of creme fraiche and chives) with a spoonful of caviar and an onion beignet. Soupe Sauvage "Velours Vert" aux Grenouilles et Marriage d'Herbes - this was a green soup, not carrot as velours suggest with slivers of frog leg meat. I honestly do not know what the main ingredient of the soup was, just that it was green. Des filet de Rouget, des Champignons et une royale d'oseille dans une nage au vin jaune- the crispy rouget was "swimming" in the vin jaune, the amber-yellow wine from the Jura area - Meli Melo de Homard Eclate et Legumes Tendres a l'Huile Parfumee- a "hodge-podge" of lobster- Aile de Pigeon Roti Servie dans in Bouillon Corse, Tartine de Halicot de Cuisse, Gnocchi d'Aubergines et Pata Negra - roasted pigeon served in strong bouillon with the thigh of the pigeon minced and served on toast The next night, we had La Poularde de Bresse Cuite en Croute de Gros Sel "Selon Alexandre" for our main course. This must be ordered at least 24 hours in advance. It is not the dish that Georges Blanc is famous for and which everyone seems to order in the dining room - the Poulet de Bresse comme au G7. The latter dish is not a favorite of mine and does in fact "taste tired." The chicken we had is cooked in a pastry shell covered with salt (the pastry is not eaten). It is served in two courses - the first the Bresse chicken breast with the leg attached was absolutely perfect, the essence of chicken with the jus being the sauce. The second course is the cracklings and other remaining parts of the chicken with a salad. I am definitely not describing this very accurately and I know Cabrales would probably describe this perfectly. Also, that is why we make a point of eating at least 2 and hopefully three meals in a destination restaurant - try the standards, try the new, get to know the staff etc.

I think you should send Mr. Pace's name and his record to every restaurant within 400 miles (km) of yours.

"I just finished reading Michael Ruhlman's account in The Soul of a Chef of the night The French Laundry had fifty-six different dishes listed on the menu. That didin't include VIP canpés and other dishes the kitchen may have been prepared to send out that night. 100 dishes over a season doesn't sound so formidable after that." Bux, you are correct. It doesn't sound so formidable at all and given the fact that Adria has a huge brigarde of chefs in the kitchen. "I implied a family resemblance to snack food." I also noticed that many of our tapas had a resemblance to "snack food." For example, the quinoa that was roasted and presented in a paper cone that reminded me of popcorn or the candied pistachios that resembled in looks green chilis. ]Tagliatelle de Consome a la Carbonara - This is another dish that I have had. Unfortunately, my notes are sketchy and I don't have a clear recollection of the dish. I think you are correct that Adria tweaks your memory with his food serving the unexpected in form, but keeping the substance. I found eating at El Bulli an intellectually demanding experience as much as a sensory and culinary experience. The one dish that I have not tasted the heuvo de oro sounds like for both of you the highlight. Obviously, I will have to return for just that one dish.

Robert, Bux, I notice that there were not that many similar dishes on both of your menus. Robert you mentioned that only the tapas were changed nightly and Bux you suggested that the menu was changed weekly. If he was doing a retrospective this year, he must have in mind re-creating more than a hundred different creations. Quite a feat.

Cabrales, Georges Blanc has changed greatly, particularly last year. Frederic, his son, is now in the kitchen and the menu, even the cover, has been updated. We had two excellent meals last year that were far from stodgy. I might be a minority of one about Georges Blanc, but hate to see him dismissed since his son has taken over. On the first night our menu, called "De Mer et D'Eau Douce" was as follows. Daurade Legerement Fumee, Beignet d'Oignon Mauve et Caviar - this was an extraordinary dish of lightly smoked, thinly sliced Daurade that was topped by a yolk quenelle (chopped yolk with a light touch of creme fraiche and chives) with a spoonful of caviar and an onion beignet. Soupe Sauvage "Velours Vert" aux Grenouilles et Marriage d'Herbes - this was a green soup, not carrot as velours suggest with slivers of frog leg meat. I honestly do not know what the main ingredient of the soup was, just that it was green. Des filet de Rouget, des Champignons et une royale d'oseille dans une nage au vin jaune- the crispy rouget was "swimming" in the vin jaune, the amber-yellow wine from the Jura area - Meli Melo de Homard Eclate et Legumes Tendres a l'Huile Parfumee- a "hodge-podge" of lobster- Aile de Pigeon Roti Servie dans in Bouillon Corse, Tartine de Halicot de Cuisse, Gnocchi d'Aubergines et Pata Negra - roasted pigeon served in strong bouillon with the thigh of the pigeon minced and served on toast The next night, we had La Poularde de Bresse Cuite en Croute de Gros Sel "Selon Alexandre" for our main course. This must be ordered at least 24 hours in advance. It is not the dish that Georges Blanc is famous for and which everyone seems to order in the dining room - the Poulet de Bresse comme au G7. The latter dish is not a favorite of mine and does in fact "taste tired." The chicken we had is cooked in a pastry shell covered with salt (the pastry is not eaten). It is served in two courses - the first the Bresse chicken breast with the leg attached was absolutely perfect, the essence of chicken with the jus being the sauce. The second course is the cracklings and other remaining parts of the chicken with a salad. I am definitely not describing this very accurately and I know Cabrales would probably describe this perfectly. Steve P - We are basically in agreement about my preferring the provinces over Paris. As I noted above, the majority of our France trip is not spent in Paris. As for wine, I'll drink with Steve and Marty anytime.

Thank you so much for your post - it was terrific. I was wondering if posting helps you study?

I think I got this recipe from Gourmet, but I'm not sure. It is easy and always works. Potato Gratin 2 cups whipping cream 1 cup creme fraiche 1 large garlic, minced 3 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, very thinly sliced 1 1/3 cups Gruyere cheese (about 5 ounces) Preheat oven to 400, Butter 13x9x2 inch glass baking dish. Bring cream, creme fraiche and garlic to boil in heavy large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add sliced potatoes, cover and cook until liquid returns to boil, about 4 minutes. Transfer 1/4 of potato mixture to prepared dish. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add next 1/4 of potato mixture. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add next 1/4 of potato mixture. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add last 1/4 of potato mixture. Season generously with salt and pepper Cover with foil and bake 45 minutes. Uncover casserole and sprinkle with cheese. Continue baking until potatoes are tender,cheese melts and sauce bubbles, about 15 minutes. let stand 10 minutes and serve.

klc, Double Bravo. You have succinctly put what we all have been thinking.

Marty, We have been extremely fortunate in that we have had only one really bad case of haughtiness in Paris which was at Le Divellec. Other than that, we have experienced incredible 3 star service which was not only correct, but warm and welcoming. However, I completely agree that to limit oneself to Paris is to miss what I love most about France - driving the countryside. Paula asked specifically about Paris and I was responding to that and from her mention of Ducasse, I felt she was asking about the 2 and 3 stars.

Marty, I would disagree with your assessment that the 3 stars in Paris are not equal to the 3 stars in the provinces. In fact, I feel that Michelin tends to be more stringent in their demands of a 3 star experience in Paris. Some of the finest meals I have ever had have been at Pierre Gagnaire and L'Ambrosie. That is not to say that I don't find Troisgros, Boyer et al extraordinary, but to dismiss the 3 star Paris restaurant as less than hasn't been true for me. I am definitely not excluding the countryside of France. I love going to the Provinces and of the 26 days we are in France, we spend 6 days in Paris and the rest "on the road."

Jinmyo, I completely agree. I cited the article, "Gastronauts" by Daniel Zwerdling from Gourmet Magazine in the Molecular Gastronomy thread, but I think it is also apropos here. "Many chefs (and gourmands) have known intuitively for centuries that when you eat too much of the same thing, you get palate fatigue, as they call it. So chefs serve sorbets between courses in an attempt to 'refresh' the palate. They serve 'tasting menus' to try to keep your taste buds on their metaphorical toes." I do not think chefs are cheating their customers by offering small portions of many different tastes. Underlying this is the assumption, that the customer has not ordered one dish only. I would agree that a "tasting menu portion" is not appropriate if that is your only dish. I agree with Thomas Keller's position that it is preferable to serve many small courses than one or two large ones. To quote Keller from The French Laundry Cookbook: "Most chefs try to satisfy a customer's hunger in a short time with one or two dishes. They begin with something great. The initial bite is fabulous. The second bite is great. But by the third bite --- with many more to come - the flavors begin to deaden, and the diner loses interest..... Many chefs try to counter the deadening effect by putting a lot of different flavors on the plate to keep interest alive. But then the diner can't focus on anything because it's confusing. What I want is the initial shock, that jolt, that surprise to be the only thing you experience. So I serve five to ten small courses, each meant to satisfy your appetite and pique your curiosity. I want you to say, 'God, I wish I had just one more bite of that.'" For me, I much prefer a series of little bites than one super-size entree.

Auroro, "However, in Calistoga there is a wonderful wine store called All Seasons. Amazingly, there is a large inventory of French Burgundy and smaller, less known French Champagnes. It is definitely a place to search out, although not so much for the food. The Oakville Grocery Store is an institution and another must stop. You will be overwhelmed by the oils, vinegars, jellies, cheese, wine, condiments etc." I posted this on June 23 and both All Seasons and Oakville are worth a stop. There is always Dean and Deluca which is just at the boundary of St Helena. A cute store to stop by is the Mosswood Collection in Yountville at 6550 Washington Street. They carry antique corkscrews as well as an extensive collection of things for the garden. Greystone, home of the CIA in Napa, is just up the road from St. Helena. It is a nice walk from the center of St Helena to Greystone and back, particularly after lunch to get you ready for dinner.

For me, the one person who set the standard for food television is Julia Child. Her French Chef series was a landmark. She introduced a generation to "unknown" ingredients and techniques. She never dumbed down to her audience and made sure she imparted correct technique. At the same time, her quirky sense of humor and earthiness made it fun to watch.

Paula, Could you be a little more specific? Are you interested in 2 and 3 star restaurants? Do you favor traditional cuisine or more inventive cuisine? Is cost a major factor? Is there a particular dish that you want to try?