lizziee

This is probably a rehash of what has already been said and certainly not as scholarly as Wilfrid, but ...... In the July/August issue of Food Arts there is an interesting article on "Tastes of history, histories of taste" by David Lincoln Ross. "The cookbook exposition at the Musee de L'Arsenal offered an intimate look at perhaps the most crucial bibliographic tipping point in French culinary history - the first appearance of authoritative cookbooks written in everyday French. Prior to the late 1400s, nearly all books and guides, including cookbooks, were published in Latin. The moment books were printed in the French vernacular, their popularity spurred new refinements in French cooking practices; accelerated the evolution of the professions of chef, baker, and pastry maker; and, perhaps most importantly, solidified the widening influence of French cuisine across Europe and the world. At the Musee d'Orsay there was a rich array of culinary objects, all signaling the most important change in French (and ultimately Western) dining habits. The change roughly coincided with the French Revolution of 1789, when aristocratic dining traditions dissolved, as many of its most blue-blooded devotees were carted off to the sharp-edged guillotines of the Terror. In that aftermath, French cuisine became decidedly more egalitarian, chefs became restaurateurs, and commoners emerged as customers. In this democratization of the table, the old reigning culinary paradigm 'service a la francaise' - in which a four to eight round series of numerous dishes were set mid-table and diners could pick and choose according to their whim - gave way to 'service a la russe.' What was the difference? The luxury of whim was replaced by the discipline of sequenced choice: patrons were now required to choose an appetizer, first dish, second dish, a side dish, dessert and coffee. revealingly, these 'Russian' rhythms still pretty much rule restaurants to this day." Wilfrid, if nothing else, I think we ought to send you to Paris to the Musee de L'Arsenal and the Musee d'Orsay for further study.

Lizziee has reported that Ginza Sushi-ko will be one of them. [Edited to correct spelling.] Ginza Sushi-ko is definitely going into the AOL Time-Warner building. I spoke with Masa on Saturday night and he is planning on leaving Los Angeles in April, 2003 and hopes for an August opening in New York.

We always bring our own wine. My husband has an extensive cellar and it just is not possible to taste all this wonderful stuff, exclusively at home. 1. In a restaurant that we are going to for the first time, we always ask their corkage policy. Normally, corkage is $25. per bottle. In restaurants that we go to frequently, the corkage is normally waived. 2. Very few sommeliers or waiters object to BYO, but we tip the waitstaff as if we had bought wine from their list. The sommelier and waitstaff still has to decant the wine, when applicable, serve the wine, make sure glasses are filled correctly etc. The object, for us, of bringing our own wine is a desire to taste what we have, not to try to have a less expensive meal. We also generally tip the sommelier as well. 3. I think it is in poor taste to bring a vin ordinaire to an upscale, fine dining restaurant. If the restaurant is serving fine dining cuisine then the obvious match in wine is an exclusive, fine dining type wine. For example, Sunday night we brought the following wines: '89 Bollinger Champagne '98 Batard-Montrachet, Francois Bouard '75 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection On Saturday night, we brought the following: 1995 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth 2000 Puilly Fume from Didier Dageneau. 1993 Chambolle Musigny by Rion. 4. We often bring back up wines. We were not sure how the '75 Caymus would "drink" so we had a back-up in case. We didn't need a back-up and took the unopened bottle back with us. 5. We have 3 basket carriers, one which holds 6 bottles, another holding 4 and another holding 3. When we enter a restaurant, the maitre d' will take our basket and he will carry it to the table. 6. Like rich, we always offer tastes to the sommelier and if we know the waitstaff well are more than willing to share. 7. Sometimes, my husband will fax the chef the wines we are planning on bringing. As we most always have a tasting mneu, this lets the chef know in advance what kind of dishes to prepare. If we don't fax ahead of time, the sommelier or waiter will often tell the chef what we have brought so dishes are appropriate. We also always offer to send back a glass of wine to the chef.

Southern Girl, All of your reviews from your recent trip to New York have been fabulous. Now for a very unfair question. If you had to rate them in order of preference - Veritas, Jean Georges, Jewel Bako, how would you rank them re wine, service, food, ambience?

Southern girl, Thank you for the wonderful write-up. The egg caviar and the garlic soup with sauteed Frog Legs are definitely signature dishes that I could eat again and again. "All in all a very impressive experience and I would look forward to going back with a group or at least one other person to be able to experience a bit broader overview." By this, do you mean you would have been able to experience more dishes or felt more comfortable dining with someone else?

I am not sure how this fits, but it seems apropos. Last night on Larry King when asked what is wrong with Network News, Andy Rooney said,"Network News is giving the American public what they want to hear instead of what they ought to know."

Jinmyo, Thanks. Next time, I'll break the eggs on purpose.

What's the best way to make it so it won't cost me another 3 dozen eggs?

When I was trying to learn how to use the Japanese food topper, I went through a couple of dozen eggs for practice. Didn't make anything with the eggs, but I had a lot of pretty shells. Then there was the time, I was trying to make eggs mollet. The idea was to have a soft boiled egg that could be peeled whole with a done white, but a runny yolk. That took another 3 dozen eggs of varying degrees of doneness. Out of the 3 dozen, I was only able to get 4 eggs, perfectly cooked and peeled.

or newly deceased

Fleur de Lys in San Francisco has been closed for 11 months due to an electrical fire. It is reopening on August 12. See their web site for information, menus etc. http://www.fleurdelyssf.com/news/news_frameset.html

Robert, I found some interesting comments from The Guardian at http://www.guardian.co.uk/euro/story/0,113...,736768,00.html Two things struck me as somewhat odd. On the one hand, they say that there have not been significant price hikes. "Consumer associations' major worry - that the new currency would automatically lead to heavy price increases - appears to have been mostly unfounded." Que Choisir, a consumer watch-quard group "carried out a survey in the Paris suburbs from summer 2001 to April 2002 monitoring the prices of 46 different products in 150 different stores, including supermarkets, bakeries, hairdressers and bistros. It revealed an average price increase of just 2.6% - of which fully 2% was accounted for by inflation." On the other hand, they note that people haven't a clue what things actually cost. From the Guardian, "To be perfectly honest, I haven't got a clue how much I'm really spending," was the almost unanimous response to a brief Guardian Unlimited survey conducted at the Champion supermarket in the rue de Rochechouart in central Paris earlier this week. "You just have to trust the labels and the check-out girls," said Marc Pestel, 39. "I pile all the usual stuff into my trolley, they tell me what it costs and I pay it. I'm not familiar enough with the euro to know what I'm spending. For all I know it could be double what I used to be. You just have to just take the plunge." Talk about The French Paradox: things don't cost more because you don't know what you are spending!!

Like mlpc, I also always ask for a menu and almost all restaurants are not only happy to oblige, but will also have the chef sign it. Gagnaire does not like to give a copy of their entire current menu as they only print enough for current use. They will, as mlpc noted, give you the insert of the tasting menu. Other than that, I have menus from every 2 and 3 star restaurant we have eaten at.

hollywood and mixmaster b, First of all, it is so great to have a California board that is posting! Welcome again to all. Mori sushi is excellent and they are one of the few places that uses fresh wasabi. We went to Sushi Sasabune last Monday night and it was awful. Every roll and every piece of sushi was mostly warm rice that immeditaely fell a apart. After about 45 minutes of food being thrown at you, we left and went to Hamasuku for some decent sushi. Hide is an old favorite - not expensive, good fish. I started going there when they were next to the lawnmower shop, years ago, before they moved down the block. Aubergine is Liza and Tim Goodell's high end restaurant. It is definitely a destination restaurant - the tasting menu is wonderful and changes nightly. Michael's has gone through numerous chef changes. We had been going there since they first opened. Unfortunately, the cuisine, at the moment, does not match the ambience. The outside patio area is probably one of the prettiest, most serene places to dine in Los Angeles. We used to go fairly often, but with the numerous changes in the kitchen, we have not been back in months. Interesting to note, Sang, who was the chef at Michael's, is now the "chef" at a small neighborhood bar on Montana in Santa Monica called My Father's Office. Beer, hamburgers, sweet potato fries. We have not been as yet, but everyone who has been loves it. Sang refuses to change how his burgers are served - "eat them my way, fat and all or go down the block." Places we have been to in the West Hollywood/Beverly Hills area that we have enjoyed are Campanile, Lucques and Mako. Mako was the chef at Chinois, but he is not doing Chinois/Puck food. It is definitely Asian fusion, but with more of a French flair. (Mako can be very good, but there are definitely some real lows). Campanile is Mediterranean cuisine - always good, dependable ingredient-driven food. I have not been to Lucques in quite a while so I can't give an accurate up date. mixmaster B, try Spago again, but be sure to ask for a tasting menu. We have been there when they have done over 200 covers in a night and maybe do only 12 tasting menus. They love to have people come in who really like to dine and they make an all-out effort. Also, we like to sit on the patio; it is quieter, not as rushed, not the scene and makes for a dining experience instead of a celebrity watching gig.

At www.SolutionsCatalog.com, you can order what is called the extreme cooler. I have used it to take frozen food on a plane for over 12 hours out of the freezer,. I just add a couple of those frozen ice packs to the "extreme cooler" and when I arrive the food is as frozen solid as when I first put it in. The telephone # is 1-800-342-9988.

You have been doing the best breathing ever since!

"The real question that we are trying to crack is why can't we convince the people that like it well done that a rarer steak tastes better? " I think the reason it is so difficult to change someone's mind about food is that eating is something we all do. It is egalitarian because everyone eats and since everyone eats, anyone can be a critic. Most people's criticism tends to center on what they like to eat. This sounds simplistic, but I honestly think it is that simple. Many people don't feel comfortable judging opera, ballet or classical music. But ask someone what they thought of their last meal, be it home cooked, at McDonald's, at Sizzler, at the local Italian, Chinese or Thai restaurant and there is absolutely no hesitancy in voicing an opinion. A four year old child is just as vocal about their preferences as a 50 year old gourmand. It is this "we are all equal because we all eat" quality that allows the "since we all eat, we can all have an opinion." I am not weighing in on the rightness or wrongness of the opinion, only why food is not judged in the same way as "other arts." Of course, I am in favor of the educated palate, but for most people "good food" means what I like and "since I eat and you eat, I know as much as you."

I will try again tomorrow. So far, no luck. One of these days, I will figure it out!!!

"Ah if only I had a childhood like that instead of arguing whether the rugelach should or shouldn't have raisins (they should.)" Steve, do you feel you missed something or had to play "catch up" by not having started on your culinary exploration and education earlier?

I didn't think you were allowed to bring in cheese. Can you?

There is one huge problem with LA that I should mention. Distances from one area to another can be like driving from one state to another in another part of the country. For example, we went to Aubergine 2 weeks ago. It took us 1 hour and 40 minutes to get there from West Los Angeles. The food was sublime and the service extraordinary, but it was a hassle. tsquare mention Aubergine to your family; I think it was even worth the drive. Fat Guy, when you mention Orange County restaurants (Aqua and Napa Rose), it is driving time that make it so difficult. I think that is one reason for the proliferation of neighborhood restaurants. Beachfan, does the St Regis have any special deals if you eat at Aqua and then stay there as well? Hollywood, hello again as well. Those chefs that I have spoken to continually cite the lack of knowledgeable diners who are willing to try new things and allow a chef to be creative that contributed to them leaving Los Angeles. Saying that, I agree that the economic downturn of the 90's contributed to the dearth. It will be interesting to see what happens when Alain Giraud from Citrus opens his new restaurant. It will definitely strive to be fine dining with a wine list that is suppose to be extraordinary. Also, I hope chefs like Alex are willing to take a chance and try to revitalize LA to be a destination restaurant city.

Welcome mixmaster b, First as to your comments re Moomba. In Thursday's LA Times, it was reported that Moomba has filed for Chapter 11. According to owner Jeff Gossett,"We were inundated with pre-opening construction costs and in order to relieve the pressure and stress from the debt, we filed.... We're still here doing great things, culinary wise, and have lots of interesting entertainment.... We have, however, noted a sharp falloff in the crowds and star wattage in recent months." I have not eaten at Moomba and can't comment on its scene or its food. LA Magazine's list of top ten newcomers is indicative of the restaurant scene in Los Angeles; there is only one fine dining establishment listed and that is Alex in the space once occupied by Citrus. We have eaten at Alex and it is a serious restaurant with an ambitious menu. I have not eaten at the other nine and it would be unfair to comment extensively. However, from the descriptions they are not fine dining restaurants. Cobras and Matadors (this is in the space once occupied by Boxer) is a tapas restaurant. The description says it all;"The waiter with the shaved head brings the little platters, the young women in J.Lo jeans eat up the food, the busboy with the pierced lip lays a sheet of clean butcher paper over the table." Green Village sounds like a wonderful, casual restaurant in a San Gabriel Shopping Mall with decor that lets you know you are in "a better type of Chinese restaurant." The Gutter Cafe is a "sort of roadhouse" with "practically no budget at all." "The barroom jukebox plays a little fiddle-riffed, steel-picked country and western number" and you can eat homemade ketchup, mustard, Russian dressing on your sandwiches. Mastro's Steakhouse (now in the building which was first the Bistro and then Chasen's) is as the name implies, a steak house. At Mastro's, "The showstopper is the shrimp cocktail served in a cloud of dry ice. Max in Sherman Oaks is owned by Filipino-born Andre Guerrero. The cusine is fusion with Hawkers chicken (traditionally served on street corners) and Inihaw, grilled pork served with vinegar and garlic. Angelini Osteria is an osteria. The chef, Gino Angelini, was the chef at Brentwood's Vicenti. We had mixed feelings about his cuisine - some highs, but also a lot of lows. This new restaurant is "impossibly tight" with "the noise from the closely packed tables" rising markedly. The reviewer does note that the " food represents Italian style at its very best." My husband and son have eaten at Union (this was first Sedlar's restaurants Bikini and Abiquiu and then Rix). Their general comment is that this is mediocre to good food ("corn chowder with littleneck clams and Yukon potatoes, cornmeal dusted Idaho trout with Romano beans and hazelnut brown butter, and Lake Superior whitefish with vegetable couscous") in a modern room with hip service. G. Garvin's is a small 40 seat restaurant with what is described as California eclectic cuisine. He was the opening chef at Reign, a southern style restaurant. The only nod to southern cuisine in his current menu are the baby back ribs as an appetizer. Other items on the menu are tuna tartar, salmon tartar, roasted Colorado rack of lamb, sauteed Atlantic salmon, roasted half chicken - safe, good food in nice surroundings with good service. Zucca, Splichal's latest restaurant, is essentially Italian country cooking. "Splichal varies the tone from what he has previously attempted. Rather than the symphonic complexities he is capable of creating at Patina, this is simpler: a sonatina. But he plays it like Brendel on the Bosendorfer grand." My editorial comment, at this point, is what happened to the symphony in LA cuisine. We are getting a lot of sonatinas, a lot of fusion, a lot of ethnic, but fine dining - no! I have nothing against that great neighborhood restaurant that serves good, sometimes wonderful food in casual surroundings. But there are so few fine dining establishments of merit in Los Angeles that I have to wait for trips to New York, San Fransisco/Napa, France to experience that level of cuisine. That said, there are a couple of places of merit. Spago Beverly Hills, if you order their tasting menu, can be wonderful. Patina tries very hard and often succeeds in a fine dining experience. Aubergine in Newport Beach has a fantastic tasting menu with professional service in a French country house setting. Alex is an up and comer that is truly trying to revitalize the fine dining scene. Water Grill, downtown, does remarkable things with fish. Ginza Sushi-ko used to be the finest Japanese restaurant I have ever been to, but you have to mortgage your house and sell your car to eat there. I haven't been to L'Orangerie for 2 years and as they have just lost their chef, I don't know what to expect. I agree with mixmaster b, that where once Valentino was extraordinary, it is now only ordinary. Melisse has such poor service, sometimes 45 minutes between courses, that it is hard to enjoy the meal. I find it sad that LA in the late 80's was the home of many great restaurants. We lost them - chefs just got too weary of the star gazers and the skinny stars themselves.

As a computer illiterate, I can't seem to find you. I signed up for Yahoo messenger. Added you to friends list. Now what?

Simon, Did you really think you could get away with this comment! Bah Humbug!

macrosan, What is interesting is that on this same trip we were at another restaurant called Auberge de Templiers. The Maire d' was also exceptional. We started chatting and it turned out he had been trained by Jean Marie.