lizziee

Thank you everyone. That's why I find e-gullet so wonderful - a lunch suggestion, then becomes a picnic suggestion and then becomes a review of Veyrat. What a wonderful group of people!

A long discussion re Thomas Keller is on the UK board under "Oysters and Pearls." I have weighed in so many times on the French Laundry that I won't go into a lengthy discussion again and bore everyone. For me, I think it is one of the finest restaurants in the States. We are having dinner there next Thursday and Friday night. Thomas will serve over 20 different dishes each night (He will often do two different preparations, using the same ingredient). That is a total of 40 different presentations. I will keep notes and report back.

Sounds perfect. Thank you so much.

We will be in Annnecy in September. We are eating at Veyrat for dinner and had planned a lunch at Clos des Sens. Clos des Sens is a wonderful place that just got its first star last year.(The chef's son is currently the pastry chef at the Waldorf Astoria) Unfortunately, it will be closed for vacation when we are there. Does anyone have any suggestions for a "gem" in the area?

Holly, It is definitely unfair to show those luscious fried clams to a Bostonian who is on the West Coast. Does anyone know where to get them out here?

This is a totally sacrilegious suggestion, but Au Jardin Les Amis in the Botanical Gardens was wonderful. As the name implies it is essentially French food. They offer two menus - a vegetarian one and a tasting one. First let me explain why French food in Singapore. Singapore is a very international city. Unexpected for me is that English is spoken by everyone and all classes in school are taught in English. Secondly our last 24 meals were exclusively regional Asian and I was homesick for French food. Thirdly, I understood that they had a superb wine list. The wine list was incredible. We had a '78 Jayer Echezeaux that was perfect and way undervalued, if you could even find it. Our Tasting menu: Terrine of smoked marlin parfait with caviar Sauteed foie gras, braised leeks and black truffles Demitasse of onion soup Filet of Atlantic cod poached with olive oil and petits legumes Roasted rack of lamb with red pepper marmalade Bavarois of Roquefort Warm apple tarte-tatin with rosemary This is only a suggestion if you want to experience French food in the most beautiful Singaporean setting with an incredible wine list. I did say at the beginning that this is sacrilegious!

Steve, I honestly do not know the answer to any of your questions. If someone knows, please post.

This is the press release: THOMAS KELLER THE FRENCH LAUNDRY, CALIFORNIA IS THE WORLD MASTER OF CULINARY ARTS 2001 CALIFORNIA DREAMING U.S. Masters The Culinary World Thomas Keller of The French Laundry, California was not dreaming tonight when he was named as World Master of Culinary Arts 2001, storming the great bastion of European supremacy, America comes of age in being awarded this great honour. Thomas Keller takes his place amongst the greatest chefs of modern times. Competition for the Wedgwood Awards was fierce, with 70 of the finest chefs in the world being nominated. The seven finalists were: THOMAS KELLER, THE FRENCH LAUNDRY, YOUNTVILLE USA - REPRESENTING USA NEILPERRY, ROCKPOOL, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA- REPRESENTING AUSTRALIA KOONYA TYEUNG, FORUM REST. - REPRESENTING HONG KONG RAYMOND BLANC, LE MANOIR AUX QUAT' SAISONS- REPRESENTING UK & IRELAND JUNYU KIMURA, YUKIMURA, TOKYO- REPRESENTING JAPAN FULVIO PIERANGELINI, GAMBEROROSSO, SAN VINCENZO- REPRESENTING ITALY GUY MARTIN, LE GRAND VEFOUR, PARIS- REPRESENTING FRANCE Each country's finalists were nominated by independant national juries, with the final decision being taken by the Grand Jury. The Award was presented by Sarah Duchess of York at a celebration dinner in the magnificent Salon Imperiale, The Hotel Inter-Continental, Paris. The unique trophy was specially commissioned and handmade by the finest Wedgwood craftsmen. It is set to become the most sought after prize in the hospitality Industry. THE GRAND JURY The National Captains represented on The Grand Jury are Richard Shepherd CBE, UK: John Alexander, AUS: Allan Zeman, HK: Yukio Hattori, Japan: Ferdinand Metz, USA: Enzo Vizzari, Italy: Roger Verge & Michel Bourdin, France. GRAND JURY CHAIRMAN - ROY ACKERMAN OBE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ORCOMMENT: Event Organisers - Peter Williams & Associates +44 (0)1565 830788

Steve, It's not the fact that people won't have a good time, it's the fact that you have to play the host. I must be as neurotic as Robert for somehow I feel responsible when I am hosting a party for the food (over which I have no control), people getting along (also no control), the wine (finally some control) and the over-all general "feel" of the evening. Who needs this much stress on an important birthday? Also, it sounds much better to me to have a quiet, long, leisurely dinner and be able to splurge on a great bottle of wine like the '90 Jayer Cros Parentoux. You don't order that kind of wine for 20 or do you? If so, count me in. Happy Birthday, Robert.

BRAVO BUX!

LA does have a couple of good restaurants and one of them is Spago, Beverly Hills. In many respects it really is two restaurants--one catering to the typical LA LA Land diners watching their waist lines and gawking at the celebs and the other catering to serious diners offering a tasting menu of focused, tightly created dishes. The service is unbelievable - last night 5 people made sure there were no hitches - the waiter, the sommelier, the assistant sommelier, busser and a captain (assigned to only 3 tables) who brought out and described each dish. Our menu was as follows: Tuna tartar in a crunchy sesame seed tuile cone White asparagus 2 ways - one a salad with a meyer lemon vinagrette and the other a warm gratin.. Uni soup with Louisiana crayfish and caviar Skate wing with Chinese 5 spices and portabello mushrooms Turbot atop an eggplant nicoise Sauteed Foie gras with a cherry reduction Agnolotti with sweet peas Roast suckling pig with morels and fava beans Leg of lamb with mint, cilantro sauce and potato chutney Cheese We skipped dessert. My husband brought the wines which were: 1985 Bollinger RD '97 1999 Chablis Le Clos, Dauvissat 1988 Chambolle Musigny Faiveley 1988 Gevrey Chambertin Faiveley All the wines were spectacular... the best being the Chablis Le Clos and the Gevrey Chambertin-- If you treat Spago as a fine restaurant, it really does deliver.

The purpose of debating whether Jordyn should go to Bras or Veyrat is based on the fact that there is only one week to do this trip and logistically doing both is almost impossible. Building a trip around "must" places does not preclude the little out of the way finds. When I plan our trips to France, I make a list of my "have-to-try" restaurants. They tend to be a Michelin 3* for I take Michelin at their word that this is "Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey." Once I have established that list, the itinerary evolves from there with 2 and 3 forks and some one stars. It should be noted what one star means, particularly in the Provinces - "A very good restaurant in its category." This often means that the restaurant chosen is tied to its locale where you will find some of the best examples of regional cooking. If you are in France for an extended stay, you have the luxury of staying in one region for a long time and becoming familar with the local hang-outs. But if you are there for 7 days, at most 14 meals, I, for one, would rather not eat bad food. Unfortunately, Bux is correct that there are some very bad restaurants in France serving some horrible food. There are some wonderful restaurants that are on the way to or near the 2 and 3 stars. Clos des Sens in Annecy, Auberge du Point de Lanu in Lanu, La Cote Rotie in Guigal, Ca L'Isidre in Barcelona and on and on. Also there are some unbelievable disasters - Chateau de Codignant (Chateau de Crap) and Mas de Torrent (Mas de Torment) to name a few. I think the point here is that e-gulleters are not being elitist, but supplying the information requested.

Bux, You are allowed to "kid" - I suspect you know me better than I am aware. We do not eat at a lot of brasseries in Paris as you can tell from my post. I have eaten at one of Guy Savoy's baby bistros and one of Rostang's and yes there is a constant flow of people. However, I don't think that the one stars do more than one turn. I consider L'Astrance a higher end restaurant where dining is a long, leisurely affair.

To add to Bux's excellent comments is the fact that in France, your table is yours for the entire evening. There are "no turns", no come at 6:00 or 9:00. Considering that most meals can last anywhere from 3 to 4 hours, $75.00 for an entire evenings entertainment is quite an achievement. Some of the 3 stars, most notably Lucas Carton has a relatively inexpensive lunch menu,. Bux is correct that this special menu often will not highlight a chef's speciality. We made a huge mistake the first time we went to Ledoyen for lunch by ordering their "special lunch." We were disappointed - but it was our bad ordering.

I thought I would add to the confusion and give another idea. One place that I feel is a must is Troigros in Roanne. As Cabrales has noted elsewhere, this is a perfect meal and a wonderful place to stay. You could take the TGV from Paris to Lyon and then take a quick train ride to Roanne. As Troisgros is right across from the train station, you can pick up your rental car at the station and you are 3 minutes from Troisgros. Next you could drive from Roanne to St Bonnet, a 1 hour 43 minute drive according to Michelin. Auberge et Clos des Cimes in St Bonnet is another wonderful place to stay and we found the food exceptional. From St Bonnet you could go to Lyon, another short drive of 1 hour and 26 minutes. In Lyon, Leon de Lyon is a wonderful restaurant and Michelin has just awarded a second star to L'Auberge de I'll and a first star to Christian Tetdoie, both in Lyon. From Lyon, you could drive to Annecy, a 1 hour and 37 minute drive. If you wanted you could then go to Geneva, even spend the night if you wish and catch a plane back to Paris or maybe even the States. Using the same itinerary, it might be that your trip became - Lyon - Roanne - St Bonnet - Annecy or to completely add another variable, you could skip St Bonnet and from Roanne go to Burgundy country and stay in Chagny at Lameloise. It is a 3 star - we have only eaten there once, but enjoyed it thoroughly. If this doesn't make you totally confused, I can't think what will.

I don't know if this is what you had in mind, but this is an incredible book store. I f there is something you are looking for they will also help you find it. Also, this is a great source for out of print books. Nach Waxman Kitchen Arts and letters - 1435 Lexington Ave. New York, New York 10128 1- 212-876-5550

Unfortunately, I have to agree with the negative comments about Taillevent. We were there for dinner on June 6, 2001. It was a huge disappointment. The new chef, Burgos, is very heavy-handed and what was once good food (Taillevent's old chef from 1981 to 1999 - Phillippe Legendre is now at Le Cinq) is now mediocre at best. Our welcome from Jean Marie, the GM, was as warm as ever. Vrinat is still very much an active owner - he is there every night overseeing the dining room. But the service which has always been Taillevent's strength is not as smooth and seamless. For example the commi handling the wine kept appearing with the wrong wine and was sent back 3 times for the bottle we ordered. We had the tasting menu. Foie gras was overcooked. The ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and truffles was oversauced and the ravioli tasted like glue. The rouget was nicely done except for the fact that the accompanying braised fennel was soggy and the sun-dried tomatoes so sweet that they ruined the taste of the rouget. The lamb was OK, but nothing special. The brie salad was much more a bistro dish than a 3* experience. At this point, Taillevent is an institution like Bocuse but I wouldn't call it a 3* restaurant like Gagnaire or L'Ambrosie.

Yvonne, What I meant by pure coincidence is that the chef from George did an interpretation of Keller's dish which ended up not at all like the original. He absolutely used Keller's dish for inspiration. Coincidence was probably not the best word choice. What I find annoying, however, is that he uses Keller's exact words - "Oysters and Pearls" - a signature menu description - to describe a "bad" (according to the review) rendition. I was trying to come up with a similar situation and the closest that I could think of was someone writing a novel called "A Streetcar Named Desire" and you find that it is about a trolley car. The article you refer to was written in 1999. I am almost positive that since then Thomas has tasted and refined "Oysters and Pearls." He might not sit down and eat a meal of his creations, but each element must be tasted for seasoning etc. However, when I am there, I will ask him what he meant. I have often heard chefs say that they can taste a dish in their heads. I wonder if Thomas was conceptualizing the creative process rather than suggesting "why bother taste the food." Honestly, it just doesn't sound right to me.

Steven, you are absolutely 100% correct to note that "chefs who don't eat out much don't tend to cook very interesting food." I think the problem arises when The George Hotel uses Keller's exact words to describe a dish that has been interpreted. "Oysters and Pearls" is a signature phrase in and of itself. Jay, in no way is Keller's dish an oyster in a salty broth with grains of tapioca. For the exact recipe see The French Laundry cookbook. The description Keller gives his "Oysters and Pearls" is a sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Malpeque Oysters and Osetra Caviar. The milk softened tapioca is strained with oyster trimmings and more milk and cream which is then mixed with an oyster infused sabayon which is mixed in with creme fraiche and whipped cream which is placed in an even layer in a gratin dish. The sauce is a reduction of vermouth, oyster juice, shallots, vinegar and butter. The tapioca mixture is then warmed in a gratin dish, oysters are added, sauce is spooned over all and a scoop of caviar is added for garnish. I have had this dish numerous times, it is definitely a Keller classic and any resemblance to what Jay has described is pure coincidence. Steven Shaw, I am sorry to disagree with you, but this is truly a wonderful dish. One interesting aside is that when Keller does a tasting menu for someone in the trade he will do two preparations using the same ingredient. He will often pair "Oysters and Pearls" with oysters in cauliflower panna cotta with beluga caviar. The contrast between the two dishes is striking. I know Thomas quite well and he is truly a perfectionist. In no way would he serve a dish that he hasn't worked on, perfected, had numerous tastings etc. He does indeed inspect every plate that leaves the kitchen and with the same intensity checks every plate that is returned to the kitchen. Cabrales as to your question as to how Thomas will handle the French Laundry on both coasts, I have eaten at the French Laundry when Thomas has been in the kitchen and when he has not. He has been able to train and teach his chefs to replicate his dishes with perfection. Thomas is the creator, but he is definitely able to have his creations faithfully replicated. Another sidetrack note - about 3 months ago Adria came to the States and he and Thomas did a demonstration together at Copia, the new Mondavi Center in Napa. I do not have feedback on that event, however. I use it as one more example of how important it is for chefs to expand their horizons by eating, seeing other chef's food. As I have noted to Robert Brown, I have been very fortunate to have eaten at the French Laundry for many years and many times. In fact, we are going at the end of May and will eat 2 nights in a row. I have done this before and the extraordinary thing about Thomas is that we will have over 20 different preparations the first night and 20 totally different preparations the second night. Quite a feat.

I have often thought to have a "VIP" dining experience, you have to be a "good" diner. For example, a bad theatre audience can hurt a wonderful play. Who, for you, is your best audience or the people for whom you most like to cook?

Robert, I really do not know this region and yes I am serious.

Bux, Our major walking is done first thing in the morning and then after lunch so we can really enjoy dinner. You are right, the small villages are dark, deserted and closed up except for the restaurant you are eating in for most often the only major "attraction" is the restaurant - St Bonnet, Puymirol etc. At Auberge de la Galupe, which is also an all time favorite of ours, we just wandered around the road near the river. I can't begin to tell you how many country roads we have walked just to clear our heads and walk off lunch. At Bras, we hiked his route after lunch. At Puymirol, we walked that tiny village so many times that I ended up counting how many steps it took me from the Church to the Tabac. The key for us is staying in a place at least 2 to 3 days. Our exercusions are done during the day for lunch and our 3 star experience is at night. But you are right the challenge is those lunch stops. For example, at Le Mimosa (Graham's suggestion) we walked a long way into the village. However, we try not to ever drive more than 20 minutes after lunch before we stay at our 3* place for the night.The challenge is to find "that place" on the road. Our other way to handle the problem is to have someone drive us to the designated dinner place. For example, this year we will be in Geneva. I haven't eaten at Crissier in 4 years - a must try again. We will have a "cab" driver take us - much cheaper than you would think - my husband sleeps and I talk food. I still think that making a trip based on where you really want to experience the food is the best way to go.

Robert, For us, the best way to do France in the provinces is to pick a different region each year and spend 3 weeks near that region. This way the driving is limited to 2 hours every 2 to 3 days. This doesn't quite fit your one place only idea, but it does allow us to eliminate the all you do is drive feeling. This year the "loop" is Burgundy, Roanne, Lyon, Annecy, Illhaeusern, Strasbourg, Reims. Last year it was Burgundy,Vienne, St Bonnet, Laguiole, Najac, Puymirol, Carcasonne, Rosas, Barcelona. Another year it was Eugenie-les-Bains, Biarritz, St.Sebastin, Bordeaux, Dordogne, Nieul, Romorantin and Les Bezards. We always begin and end in Paris. It is hard for me to pick a favorite region as we pick our itinerary by the restaurant we want to visit. One advantage of eating in the provinces is that you can stay at where you eat. It is a wonderful feeling to know that after having a 3 to 4 hour dinner, your bed is minutes away by foot.

We are going to this region for the first time. We already have reservations at Auberge de I'll in Illhausern, at L'Arnsbourg (the new three star), at Au Crocodile and Buerhiesel in Strasbourg. I now need some other thoughts. Does anyone have information on Au Fer Rouge in Colmar? Also, what ideas for lunch in Strasbourg? I have heard of a restaurant called La Cambuse, but know nothing about it. I appreciate all the help I can get.

I don't know of any guide book that will give you the answer, but I'm sure the concierge of a hotel would know the answer. One of the reasons we go to the Vernet is that Claudio, the concierge is fantastic. When in doubt about anything, I ask him.