Daniel Rogov

In Tel Aviv, Haifa and Beer Sheba many, including those who did and those who did not fast during Yom Kippur, break the fast not so much at home but by strolling to the many cafes and restaurants in these cities as they re-open after the holiday. That outgoing of the masses is not only to celebrate the end of the fast but more to celebrate that the coming back to life of the country. For better or for worse, Yom Kippur is a day impossible to ignore when you live in Israel. No radio, no television, no cafes, no restaurants, no transportation (yes, in some neighborhoods even ambulances are stoned as they drive on that day)..... in short, no nuttin!!!!!

1. Make glogg or, if you prefer it by its alias, Chanukah Punch 2. Use it in preparing coq au vin 3. Weak and watery Pinot Noir is excellent for braising and adding a marvelous touch to frozen salmon steaks or fillets.....be sure to add juniper berries and bay leaves Consider as well, should you come across one, wooly mammoth. (That was actually done in Russia in the 1960's when three wooly mammoths were uncovered from the same glacier. The result was abysmal but who cares.....after all, how many times do you get to eat a wooly mammoth?)

Bills, Hello... You just taught me an important lesson for which I thank you. When I first saw your post I wondered just why someone was posting about this "American" holiday in October and not November. It took a minute....I checked and saw that you live in Canada, I did a bit of google research and discovered that Canada celebrates Thanksgiving on the second Monday of October. The thanks...for making me hyper-aware that I, like many who have lived in the United States of America for any length of time can be terribly ignorant of things specifically cultural to Canada. I will start doing some serious reading/thinking about those differences. Thanks as well for sharing what sounds like a lovely evening

Known of course as "Sabras" in Israel, many make a long drink of a glass of the juice with a shot of Arak or Pernod added. Best served on ice cubes. Of course don't forget the possibility of merely peeling them (take care for the thorns!) and simply feasting on the flesh of these delicious fruits.

As often, I have both good news and bad news. The good news is that much of the cheese rightlyknown as Parmigiano Reggiano is superb, in fact, one of the best cheeses in the world. The bad news is that what is produced outside of Italy and called "Parmesan" often has the texture of rubber, the flavor of processed cardboard and the charm of a dead mouse. Relating to the wisdom of nearly every major and quite a few minor religions on our little planet: "If it is like an egg, it is not as good as an egg". So be it.

Agreed in full and with great enthusiasm at that! Above all, wine should be a pleasure in life, and that means indeed making mistakes and even enjoying those mistakes and sometimes even laughing heartily at ourselves for them. I am reminded of the story of a critic of international renown who once mistook a Burgundy wine for a Bordeaux. When asked by a young man how he could make such a "horrible error", the wise man smiled and responded: "Don't worry son. It doesn't happen to me often. Never more than once a day"

Lauren, Hi...... I'm going to refer you to several little articles I have written about food-wine matching but before that let me remind you of the advice of at least several truly great chefs: "Find the dishes you most enjoy and the wines you most enjoy and try those together. The chance is you're going to love the matches you make" Best way to sum it up perhaps is to report on how one day my most faithful companion and I made our way to lunch to Moul Yam in Tel Aviv, there to feast on oysters and then crabmeat stuffed lobsters. With the oysters we had a fine Muscadet de Sevre et Maine and with the lobsters, a Burgundy red. Seated at a nearby table were two couples and they kept glancing at us. To tell the truth, for a few moments their glances were even uncomfortable. Finally, one of the women stood up, came to our table, excused herself very politely and asked: "Excuse me, but aren't you Daniel Rogov?" I responded in the affirmative. She asked "Mr. Rogov, with all you know about wine and food how can you drink red wine with seafood?" I did not answer her but had the waitress bring another chair and place setting to our table. The wine waiter poured some wine for her and I gave her part of my portion. All I had to do was to watch her eyes as they lit up with pleasure ..... As to the articles - see http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/wine_food.html

The dish is imam ba'aldi in Turkish. Another Turkish dish the name of which I like is Kadin Budu (woman's thighs) a chopped meat dish, some claiming they were given their name because of their "plump, round shape" and others (mostly men) say that that they are called this because they are "as juicy and as tender" as the thighs of a woman. And of course the French cuisses des nymphes (nymphs' thighs) - those of course being frogs' legs.

Carolyn, Hi... Begging my indulgence is unnecessary at any rate I would agree that those using the traditional grapes and the solera method would be entitled to use the title "Wine in the Style of Port". Despite that I would say that the name itself is place-specific and thus not transferable. As a parallel example - let's look at wines made from various blends of the 22 varieties approved by the French government for use in the Cotes du Rhone and Rhone Valley. Should that be done scrupulously (as it is by members for example of the Rhone Rangers in the USA), would you want those wines labeled "Cotes du Rhone"? And does anyone do anything but chuckle at thoughts of Gallo's Hearty Burgundy and Chablis (the last of which contained not a drop of Chardonnay grapes for many years) I am well aware of the wide use of names such as Burgundy, Port, Sherry and Champagne and of the legal/legalistic arguments, both national and multi-national about these. As I said earlier, I am not on the side of the legalists. I am, however, on the side of time and place focused tradition. As to the recent agreements, I am happy for the people involved that the situation is being resolved. At least in my opinion, however, this does not "make it right". But then again, that's my privilege as a curmudgeon.

Trishiad, Hi.. Indeed much the same. And even more...Champagne does not come from all of France. It comes only from the region of France known as Champagne (bound more or less by Epernay and Reims). Also worth keeping in mind that not all sparkling wines are made as Champagne is made (the second fermentation in the bottle). Much is made by the charmat method (in tanks) and by other methods. As not all port-style wine contains the same grapes or is made by the same method as in Portugal. I have no objection to giving a wine a proprietary name and then, in smaller letters writing "wine in the style of Port" or "made by the Champenoise method" but Port it ain't and Champagne it ain't.

Last year my first book about Israeli wines was published (Toby Press) and I took a minute to do a bit of self-promotion here. The second edition - "Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines - 2006" has just appeared and any interested in reading about it or (hopefully) ordering it can find further information at my publisher's pages http://www.tobypress.com/books/rogov.htm Changes this year - 20+ new wineries added; 700 more wines reviewed; a section of doing one's own tastings including a tasting form; etc, etc...... It goes without saying that if the critic is not open to criticism, no-one should be so open, so if any have comments, questions or objections about the book I'll be delighted to respond to them here. Oh yes...I did request and receive permission from the good folks managing egullet to post about this here.

I do hate to be a stick-in-the-mud, but Port wine does not come from California. Port wine comes only from Portugal. If you like, I can even supply a full list of the Port lodges and believe me, not one of them is located in California. Not a question of legalities or international conventions in my case. Simply one of realities and aesthetics.

May I suggest you see my articles at: http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/winebars_paris.html http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/paris_cheap.html http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/paris_foo..._hemingway.html

The Istanbul spice market is indeed a marvel to visit and stroll through and you will find many beautiful examples of fine spices there. When it comes to saffron, however, take great care for much of what is sold is not at all the real thing. Keep in mind if you do decide to buy that the stigmas should average about 2.5 - 3.5 cm in length, the color should be a uniform bright orange-red and should not have either streaks or white patches. When smelled the saffron should have a strong pefumed aroma and your nose should pick up a clear hint of honey. The very best way to sniff saffron is to break off a tiny (and I mean truly tiny) piece of a single strand, to pinch one nostril closed and to inhale the speci forcibly through the open nostril much as you might cocaine (we've all seen how that is done in the movies, haven't we?) An honest dealer will prepare a small cup of boiling water for you and will allow you to drop a single strand into that. If genuine that should be quite enough to color the water appropriately and to give it a slightly bitter but distinctly honeyed flavor.

Carswell, Hello..... We might well argue that this is an issue of chacqun a son gout but in this case taste and definition seem to be divided along national lines - North Americans and those in the UK taking your point of view, those on the Continent mine. I do know that this is a fun source of conversation/argument/interpretation between me and several of my English colleagues. I may not always agree with but will not contest the validity of definitions from sources such as the Oxford Companion to wine but I will tend to ignore dictionary definitions, no matter how sophisticated the dictionary. As one does not turn to dictionaries for in depth analysis of terms from mathematics or physics nor should one do so for terms in the arts, the culinary realm or wine. As to matching dessert wines with ice cream - no problem at all with me. As to matching them with chocolate - well, I'll opt for tarte tatin.

To borrow again from Mr. Bumble and thus to repeat what I wrote yesterday in a completely different context: "The law is a ass" As to BATF, whenever I think of that acronym and the logic of the group behind it I am tempted to add three lower case letters after the "F". In the name of good taste, I have to date avoided doing so.

Forgive a curmudgeon for reminding us but there seems to be some confusion on this thread between dessert wines and fortified wines. Fortified wines, such as Sherry and Port are usually thought of as "after-dinner wines" and not so much "dessert wines". Dessert wines "proper", regardless of whether they come from Sauternes, Barsac, California, the Loire, Italy, or are the ice wines of Germany and Canada are very very rarely fortified. Dessert wines tend to go well not only with cheeses but, as implied in their name, many desserts, especially those based on fruits or cheeses. Fortified wines tend to go primarily with fruits (pure and simple but not prepared), nuts and cheeses. Also worth keeping in mind that many dessert wines are very appropriate as aperitifs or as accompaniments to first courses, especially those based on goose liver.

Thinking of dessert wines (which can also be served as aperitifs or as accompaniments to first course dishes based on goose liver) as merely "accessories" has something akin to thinking of Lambhoginis as "just another auto" or of foie gras as "a piece of meat". One way to prove my point. The 2001 Chateau d'Yquem was released this week. Here is my tasting note: Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 2001: One of those magnificent wines that sets Yquem above all others and a wine that will cellar comfortably for 70, 80 or more years. Deep golden yellow with orange, green and red reflections, full-bodied, with intense sweetness set off beautifully by natural balancing acidity. On the nose and palate a remarkably complex array of aromas and flavors, those including ripe yellow peaches, apricots, eucalyptus honey and sugar-glazed pineapple. As the wine develops look for spices that will rise as well as a gentle hint of caramel that will start to tip-toe in in another decade. One of the greats, standing comfortably alongside the superb wines of 1921, 1929, 1947, 1959 and 1967. You can drink, admire, enjoy and even adore this wine now but that would be a shame for it will begin show its best only in another decade. Expect the wine to be at its very best starting in 2025 and then to cellar comfortably until 2075 or longer. Score 100. (Tasted 28 Sep 2005)

Animals eat Men and women dine Men and women of good taste dine well

You'll find many who love wine as much as I but none who love it more but my own late nights are reserved for a quiet glass of Armagnac with my second and final cigar of the day. Well, if confessions are in order, that might be Cognac, Calvados or a fine Single-Malt Scotch but the cigar, by heaven is de rigueur.

As to flavors and aromas, let us keep in mind that as different varieties of grapes will produce wines of distinctly different flavors and aromas, so it is as well with olives. Some varieties (e.g. Manzanillo) will produce soft, gentle oils with nutty flavors while others (e.g. Surie) will give us gentle but distinctly peppery oils..... As to the acquisition of freshly pressed oil - sorry but unless you're standing at the olive press and sipping the oil before it goes on to bottling that's an oxymoron. Indeed true that unlike wine olive oil is not meant for anything more than short term storage and certainly not for long term aging. As olive oil ages the amount of oleic acid in it rises so what starts off as extra-virgin can easily turn into candle quality oil within two years. The morals of the story: (a) taste a large number of oils to determine which you enjoy the best; (b) keep at least two or three different kinds of olive oil on hand, some suited for salads, some for marinades, some for cooking, depending on your needs; © buy in quantities that are small enough that you can finish them off before they lose their best qualities.

To paraphrase Mr. Bumble, the law can be an awful ass at times! I would comfortably wager that given the opportunity to taste and yes, even sip a bit of wine under the supervision and tutelage of parents starting at even a quite early age would protect children far more from the future perils of alcoholism or alcohol abuse than any law forbidding us to serve them wine in our homes or to allow them a sip from our glass in a fine restaurant. This is not the place to get into this in depth but one of the highest moral obligations is the overturning of laws that impose on true morality or on the common good. And at least since the days of Plato, one of the accepted ways of overturning such laws is by disobeying them. As Thomas Paine so nicely put it....the disobedience of an immoral law is not the way to anarchy. It is one of the paving stones of democracy. True morality comes not from blind obedience to the law but to dedication to morality itself.

The question of the involvement of children and wine/alcohol is not a new one and I find it simultaneously sad and amusing that some show shock that young children have become "involved" with wine, some even indicating that the times they have indeed a'changed and that this "situation" is worse now than in earlier days. A few comments - Children have always been involved with wine. Sometimes because of the wisdom of their parents that involvement has been in moderation and with a social-socializing influence, at other times it has had to do with the greed of some selling such beverages and targeting them towards youth. I doubt that the situation has changed very much in recent years. In ancient Egypt, even before the well known exodus of the Jews, the Pharaohs were so concerned with the drunkeness of youth that laws were passed forbidding serving alcohol or wines (mostly fruit wines) to those under the age of 14. In ancient Rome, both Apicius and Lucullus expressed outrage that young children were often to be found wandering the streets in a drunken stupor. No, not much has changed but if it has, it has been change for the better. It goes without saying that drunkenness, whether in children or adults, is an excess. Such excess is worse and more harmful in children of course and that because young children are not capable of making informed decisions as regards their future health and well being. Even when not in excess, young adolescents have been buying beer and other alcoholic beverages whenever and wherever possible, at least for as long as human memory serves; in many segments of society part of growing up (and a possibly quite healthy part) means stealing one of the family cigars, a few "shots" of whiskey, getting drunk enough to become sick. Certainly by the time of university a critical part of one's education is the occasional binge. None of which I perceive as "bad", so long as it is within the framework of development among ones peers and when it serves (as often it does) to make one realize that there are better ways to relate to such beverages. It becomes bad only when it threatens the health or well being of oneself or others. That, of course, includes driving under the influence of any alcoholic beverage. To me a large part of the solution has always been evident - parents who enjoy alcoholic beverages (wine or any other) in a moderate way should encourage their children to have a sip of this or a sip of that, to discuss the beverage that is being consumed, to relate it to history, ethnicity, religion and culture - to introduce them not only to the flavors but to the pleasures of civilized behavior. I agree fully that children who are taught to value things (whatever those may be) in moderation and as part of the civilized way, tend to become moderate and civilized when they become young adults and later fully adults. And that is true no matter at what age our children are! Simply stated, no matter what prohibitions we set on our children, at a certain age they will be exposed to alcohol via their peers. If children are prepared for that exposure, they will not overdo or if they do it will be merely as an occasional part of the growing up process. Responsibility in this case falls almost entirely on the child-rearing process, and in this case that means the parents and immediate family of the children in question. Is the situation worse today because children think that drinking wine can be "cool". I truly doubt it. Take a peek at any of the etchings of Hogarth to see how drunken children were at one time part of the norm within England; read Chateaubriand to understand how infant drunkenness (yes, infant) was a major problem within France. The opposite in fact - in fact, I rather enjoy hearing a six or ten year old analyze why he/she prefers white wines to red, why Chardonnay to Emerald Riesling, why wine to beer. Obviously I am not talking about drunken and ribald children. I am talking about children who are on their way to becoming civil and cultured adults. I'm one of those odd people - I trust children. But that of course is simply one person's opinion. It should go without saying, but to be on the safe side, I'll say it anyhow - children or adults who have any allergy to alcohol of any kind should be taught abstention and taught how to value themselves for being abstemious. As to the specific case that Brad brings up, I feel qualified to comment in only one way – and that is to recommend that the entire family, including the child go into these issues in as much detail as is required with the guidance of a trusted and competent psychologist.

Jackal, Hi..... Try Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo where they feel that matching breads with courses is as important as matching wines.

Chefboy, Hi.... I was unclear. I was referring to diners and not to chefs when asking about intelligence. We are in agreement, some chefs are brilliant. Others are little more than idiots-savant.