Daniel Rogov

Craig, Hi..... In the friendliest of manners (believe me), let me disagree with the three statements you made above (and I apologize for citing them at least partly out of contet) 1. You say that the established wine press does not like blogging because it takes control from them and transfers it to the consumer. This in turn, you say, eats away at our power and income. Diametrically disagreed and in several ways. The very fact that so many wine blogs have appeared in recent years has actually inspired an increasing number of newspapers and magazines to add wine columns to their regular press and on-line editions, in fact this making for more work and greater income for the pros. Perhaps more important, in recent years those who read wine columns in both magazines and newspapers have increased by nearly 40%. 2. As to transfering "power to the consumer", any critic who does not believe and/or know that that power has always belonged to the consumer is an abject idiot. Keep in mind that those consumers are both the clients and judges of the critics. They read us, decide whether we're worth reading and then either continue or discontinue reading us. As often I have said, the true "bosses" of any critic are neither his editors nor his publishers but his readers. That does not mean we have to pander to readers. It does mean that we have to be faithful to and respectable of them. 3. As to publications deciding what is to be sold, you may be over-crediting the power of the press. I do not have publication numbers (and any publisher who gives you numbers is telling lies!) but I can assure you that fewer than 1% of wine buyers read Parker, the Wine Spectator, Decanter or even the most major newspapers in the USA. As I said earlier, blogs have something remarkably akin to autobiographies. How many people who write autobiographies are going to say "I led a rotten and boring life and was basically a rotten human being?" For that matter, how many winemakers are going to be self-critical enough to write, "this was a truly terrible harvest and we had an abundance of problems at the winery, so you can pretty well believe that our wines are going to be pretty mediocre this year". We may also forget that the role of the critic is to attempt to define standards while that of the consumer is often the reportage of popularity. Indeed the wine experience is a subjective one but there are, as is true for any field of human endeavor, standards and standards and popularity do not always walk hand in hand. If we assumed that were true we might conclude that Coca Cola is the "best" beverage in the world. Again, my objection is not at all to people writing about wine (or food or any other aesthetic endeavor) and presenting their writings in public. My objection is to the abysmal proliferation of not-nearly-knowledgeable enough people who do this on every possible subject. As you, I and others have said, it falls on the consumer (the reader of either the critic or the blogger in this case) to read with a critical eye and determine what is worth reading. Part of the problem I am having is that as blogs proliferate few of us have the time required to sift through all of the true junk and to find the few gems that exist. Me....I would rather see those gems on independent web sites or as part of sites such this one and not as bloggers. As to the comment about sifting through warehouses (or, in Europe, more likely in supermarkets) and finding the little gems.......let's be honest....a huge percentage of the wines in those warehouses and supermarkets are truly mediocre or even bad wines. Best (at least in Europe) to make a weekly or bi-weekly round of the better wine bars and find out what knowledgeable owners have brought back for our tasting. At least we know that they try to bring back wines that they will be proud to serve. The owner of the wine bar, like the critic, does not state absolutes. He/she tries to give direction. Let us also keep in mind that no matter how "nice", "charming" or "open" they may be, bloggers from distributors, wineries, etc never lose track of the fact that they are selling wine. It falls on both the consumer and the critic to decide what to buy. But I ramble (as often I do). Considering that it is now 10:37 in the evening where I am, I shall now at least for a while turn to my cigar and a fine glass of Armagnac (in the case of this evenng a Cuban Monte Cristo Panatella and a snifter of the 1972 Reserve of Chateau Labaude).

Leaving fast-food, junk-food and mass-market aside as it deserve to be set aside in a serious question like this... Modern American cuisine is a true fusion between classic and modern French, Italian and at times Far-Eastern methods and dishes; traditional regional American offerings; the use, depending on the chef, of both local and not-at-all local ingredients; and the talent of chefs with both imagination and talent. What this means among other things is that there is little uniformity to what is happening in American kitchens and that may be one of the greatest culinary strengths of current movements, for we are more and more seeing restaurants where the specific signature of the chef is more and more readily apparent. The question that automatically follows deals with whether this has led or will lead to a specifically "American cuisine". My speculation is that it will not but with this I have neither problems nor complaints for I cannot help but agree with what Patricia Wells wrote more than a decade ago... that to the effect that although the finest dining in the world is still to be found in Europe, the most exciting dining is taking place in America.

Indeed, not all who write blogs have the knowledge or erudtion of which they are convinced they possess. I'm the first to agree that this is also true of professionals, but at least with pros there are some safeguards - editors and publishers being among them and even more important - feedback from readers. Professional food/wine writers or critics (those subjects are, after all is what this forum is about) can survive only so long as they have a readership and therefore whether their editors will give them the required space in which to write their columns. Your audience may love or hate you but to editors, what is important is that they read you. The same is simply not true of the blogger. As has been discussed by philosophers and kings, perhaps the freedom of cyberspace is simultaneously its best and worst point. None of which is to imply that the non-professional does not have what to say. Nor is this to say that such people need restrict themselves from saying this, but the moment we present ourselves as "experts" in any way there must be some control, some ongoing input as to the quality and validity of what we say.

Jim, Hi.... If it is the medications that you are taking and those are responsible for the loss of sensation on your palate, probably little to be done. If it is merely the recovering from both being ill and the medications try the following in the order given: (a) Brush your teeth and tongue well using your regular toothbrush and toothpaste. If your gag reflex is not too strong try to brush the roof of your mouth as well. (b) If your nostrils are less responsive to aromas than is usual, try brewing some black tea and inhaling the steam from that. Be careful of course not to do this too close to the steaming tea! © The first two steps can be done at home before leaving for dinner. When you do leave carry a fresh toothbrush with you (no toothpaste) and a small plastic bag of boiled but cold and unsalted rice. Before the first course makes its way to the table hie thee to the men's room, chew the rice, making sure you do so well and then spit it. After that brush both teeth and tongue with the toothbrush. (d) If those do not help best you can do is order the most spicy foods on the menu! Feel better and good luck.

← As might justifiably be said: Chaqun a son gout (Each to his or her taste)

I am well aware that I'll take some flack for this one but so be it. The simple truth is that I am well fed up and tired and bored to tears by wine/food blogs and that regardless of whether they are posted by professional or amateur wine/food lovers. Several reasons for this: First of all, what I consider the outrageous replication of material, that made easy by the freedom of cyberspace, in which literally thousands of people (as I say, both professionals and others) have been convinced that even more hundreds of thousands will be interested to read what they have to say. Something like saying that everyone should write his/her autobiography. Autobiographies should be written only by people whose lives have had interest and who know how to write. Same with blogs and perhaps there are better outlets than blogs for intelligent writing? Second, much of blogging has the same impact on me as the waiter or waitress who greets me by saying, for example, "Hi, my name is Josephine and I'm going to be your waitress for the evenng". Now I'm as democratic as the next person and respect wait persons enormously but if the simple truth be told I don't give a damn what their names are, the health status of their mother, etc, etc. Same with blogs......I have seen blogs by people who adore Jello. For heaven's sake, there must be a limit, and I honestly don't care by what method someone slid their peanut butter flavored bananas into their raspberry flavored Jello. Third, with professionals, one cannot escape the feeling that they are writing blogs only because their editors have told them that in these days of sinking readership they must find a way to reach out to an increased readership. And that a wine professional in Bordeaux found his bed lumpy is of no interest whatsoever to me! I cannot wonder why forums, internet sites and even (forgive me for being old-fashioned) the printed media is not enough for us. I now stand back, bullet-proof vest well in place, my epee in readiness.

Indeed, catfish are not kosher. The good news is that both trout and bass are and the following recipe can be used with either.... Truite a la Bourguinnone Trout in Red Wine 4 trout (can use either brown or rainbow trout) 1 bottle good (but not overly expensive) Burgundy red 1 carrot, sliced thinly 1 onion, sliced thinly 1 small bouquet garni 200 gr. small champignon mushrooms 300 gr. baby onions 60 gr. clarified butter pinch of sugar 20 gr. flour 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley salt and freshly ground pepper Trim and clean the fish (your fishmonger can do this for you). Wash the fish in very cold water, making sure no traces of blood or intestines remain. Pat dry with paper toweling. Grease a gratin dish that is large enough to hold all of the fish in one layer. Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper and place in the dish. Pour over the wine and place the sliced carrots and onions and the bouquet garni between the fish. Prepare the mushrooms by peeling and wiping them. Finely slice the stems and put them in the gratin dish with the trout. Reserve the caps for the garnish. Peel, wash and dry the small onions. In a small saucepan heat the butter and when melted add the onions and sugar and cook until golden brown, tossing often. Add 2 Tbsp. of water, cover and let stand in a warm place. Cook the trout in an oven that has been preheated to 220 degrees Celsius (425 Fahrenheit) for 10 minutes, basting them with the cooking liquids after 5 minutes. With a large spatula, gently transfer the fish to a serving dish, making sure the fish drain well before setting them on the platter. Cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. To prepare the sauce, mash together 30 gr. of the butter and the flour. Set the gratin dish containing the cooking liquids from the fish over a low heat and whisk in the butter-flour mixture. Bring to the boil, let the sauce boil gently for 5 minutes, whisking continuously with a wire whisk and then pass through a sieve to a clean saucepan. Simmer (but do not boil) the sauce for 5 minutes and then add the mushroom caps and cook gently for 3 minutes longer. Stir in the remaining butter, add the small onions to the sauce and heat through for 45 - 60 seconds, taking care not to let the sauce boil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, pour the hot sauce over the trout, sprinkle with parsley and serve at once, traditionally with plain steamed potatoes. Ideally served with a medium-bodied Pinot Noir or a cru Beaujolais wine.

And please, let us not forget that yoghurt in its natural form does not come flavored with fruits. Nor does it come in small plastic containers. live anywhere in the Mediterranean basin and you will know that yoghurt in mini plastic containers is about as natural as tuna that comes in a can (honestly......Charlie the tuna did not grow up in a can!) And above all, let us never forget (a) that truly fine yoghurt must be sour (you can sweeten it by yourself if you like with a variety of additives); (b) truly fine yoghurt is thick and neither drinkable nor runny and © some of the finest yoghurts are made not from cow's milk but from that of goats and sheep. Ye faithful curmudgeon

Contrary to popular belief, the roots of the degustation menu do not go back to ancient Greece or the Middle-Ages, even though it was then considered appropriate to serve 12, 16 or even 20 or more courses at a single meal. Unlike true degustation meals, those Medieval dinners were unplanned and unsophisticated and, because they relied on terribly heavy sauces, would be considered basically inedible by any sophisticated diner today. There is a good chance that the very first versions of what we now know as the degustation menu, were those offered between 1880 and 1910 by the great chef George- Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier, whose restaurants were in the Ritz Hotels of Paris and London, was the chef whose self-appointed task was to satisfy the appetites of the most royal and the most wealthy members of European society. Escoffier loved nothing better than impressing his guests. He saw no reason why they could not start their meal at six in the evening, work their way through as many as fifteen full courses and finally leave his restaurant at three in the morning.

Gordon, Hi... Sorry, but don't know the prices but three good bets might be: Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol, 1947: I can only regret not having had the opportunity to have tasted this wine in its youth, for in its maturity it is magnificent and surely would have given enormous pleasure to follow over the decades. Full-bodied, with tannins still here but those so subtle that it takes minutes until you feel them. From first attack through the still remarkably long finish a nose and palate of berry jam, peppery citrus peel marmalade and espresso coffee. Simply stated, don't be surprised as you sip this one if tears of joy start running down your cheeks. Drinking beautifully now-2010, perhaps longer. Score 97. (Tasted in magnum sized format, 22 Jan 1997) Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache, 1947: Adobe brick red towards brown in color but still throwing orange and ruby reflections, a distinctly earthy wine now, but under that intense minerals and rich, near-jammy black fruits. Fills the mouth with a fascinating combination of sweetness and bitterness that cannot help but fascinate. Only for those who can adore very mature reds but for those a blessing. Drink now-2010, perhaps longer. Score 98. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 1999) Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes, 1947: One of the very best Yquem wines ever, and one very possibly destined to celebrate its centennial still going strong. Full bodied, with a generous, still almost intense botrytis nose along with flavors and aromas of candied citrus, tropical fruits and sweet caramel, all of which linger beautifully, this is one of the very best and certainly most elegant Yquems ever. Drinking beautifully now, the wine has a good chance of celebrating its centennial year. Score 97. (Yquem Vertical, 27 Jan 2003)

Bill, Hi..... 1934 was a good but not exceptional vintage year for Bordeaux. The Lafite was one of the better wines of that vintage, drinking very nicely and earning a score of 91 as recently as 1988 but with the adviso "not destined for further cellaring so drink now or in the next few years". By 1996 the wine was clearly past its peak (after tasting from four bottles, including two of magnum format), still showing hints of its elegance but already quite tired and earning a score of 84. When I tasted the wine in 2002 it was "no longer scoreable".

Apologies but just saw the inquiry about I stipulated minimum 15% fat content for the cream cheese.......Indeed all three reasons put forward - flavor, texture and the ability to hold firmly at room temperature.

I have always liked the word "serendipity" and it was precisely that that had me at a tasting held today in Tel Aviv, that hosted by Israeli winemaker Barry Saslove who had returned from New Zealand with several Sauvignon Blanc wines he thought might be of interest. I offer the following tasting notes as a rebuttal to the concept that Sauvignon Blanc can not be exciting. Palliser Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand, 2004: Light golden in color, with generous acidity giving a remarkably live-ness to the wine, but showing complexity, with lime, pear, date and a hint of green garden vegetables that runs tantalizingly through. Drink now. Score 90. (Tasted 20 Apr 2006) Matua, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2004: Light and lively with generous acidity in good balance with lime and tropical fruits backed up nicely by hints of green vegetation and minerals. On the long finish distinct grapefruit, a hint of pungency and sweet pea flavors that cannot help but please. Drink now-2007. Score 91. (Tasted 20 Apr 2006) Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2004: My earlier note holds firmly, the strong vegetal hints that run through from first attack to the finish still there to make this a wine you're gong to love or hate, all depending on how you perceive the role of Sauvignon Blanc in the universe. Indeed good fruits here, those including peaches, nectarines, honeydew melons and green apples, and generous citrus acidity as well, but those on a background of sweet peas, green beans and sweet green peppers. Drink now. Score 88 (as those reading this note can see I appreciated that green-ness). (Re-tasted 20 Apr 2006) Matua, Sauvignon Blanc, Shingle Valley Peak, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2004: Light- to medium-bodied, with crisp acidity backing up citrus, tropical fruits, grassiness and generous spices, allspice rising on the finish. Clean and easy to drink. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 20 Apr 2006) Villa Marie, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, Wairau Valley, Clifford Bay, Marlborough, 2004: If ever a wine earned the descriptor "cat's pee" this is that wine, but don't let that put you off for the light pungency that strikes on first attack then passes nicely to reveal grapefruit, citrus peel, melon and mineral-earthy flavors. Long, generous and mouthfilling. Drink now. Score 91. (Tasted 20 Apr 2006) Cantebury House, Sauvignon Blanc, Christchurch, Wairapa Valley, New Zealand, 2004: Crisply dry, with tantalizing hints of sweet peas and green peppers, those yielding to citrus, summer fruit and a generous grassy sensation. Long and generous. Drink now. Score 90. (Tasted 20 Apr 2006)

May I ask, with no sarcasm or any other form of animosity whatever, why anyone, unless specifically allergic to sugar, would want to make a sugar-free ice cream. If it's because of calories, perhaps a more ideal solution for those concerned with the quality and taste of what they eat would be to make the richest, highest butter-fat ice cream, one as laded with sugar as one likes and to eat only 2 - 3 tablespoons full instead of 2 - 3 scoops?

Bill, Hi.... Either you are joking or you mis-read something. They may have a wine from some obscure Margaux producer or another at that price but if Chateau Margaux 2005 is reallly going to sell for 14.5 Euros a bottle you can assume with great confidence that the Messiah will be arriving tomorrow at about noon, California will fall into the Pacific Ocean at 3 p.m. and that a purple cow will jump over the moon this evening at 7 p.m. Greenwich Mean Time. When prices are finally announced you can anticipate that the futures for Chateau Margaux will be in a range of about 2,000- 2500 Euros a case. And at that price, even the Messiah will be hard pressed to buy them....

Considering how high even first tranche futures prices are coming in, the joke making the round in Europe today is that best buys from the 2005 Bordeaux vintage will be wines from the 2000 vintage.

To attend a restaurant you don't like, to dine on a dish you do not enjoy, to be burdened with a somewhat obnoxious 4 year old, and to find that the restaurant was "a zoo" is far from the ideal set of circumstances to enjoy or later hold forth either about a specific wine or a variety! My guess is that if I'd sat at the table next to Mr. Steinberger's, I'd have wound up strangling his son and downing a few quick shots of vodka before the police came to take me away. As to Sauvignon Blanc, one does beg to disagree. True, a great deal of not-at-all distinguished Sauvignon Blanc is produced but this is true of every other variety one can name. On the more positive side, however, there are the distinctive, quite often complex and even elegant wines of the Loire and, the Macconais in France, in Italy many from Alto Adige and Collio, certainly in New Zealand's Marlborough, and would you believe, even in Napa….. And me, what the heck….I adore stone crabs!!!!

Is it not written, perhaps in the book of Daniel, that "he who makes a chocolate bagel commits a sin no less abominable than he who lies with a chicken"? Apologies, but I simply couldn't resist that one!

I'm tempted to wonder why anyone would want to marry a woman who does not like fish, seafood or eggs. I'll refrain from that however and go along with the tea-sandwich concept. Here are a few fish, seafood and egg-free suggestions. White meat of chicken or turkey with mayonnaise or butter. White meat of chicken with chutney butter. Chopped chicken with chopped almonds Chopped chicken with sweet pickles. Baked ham with chutney on pumpernickel. Chopped ham with English mustard, fresh horseradish and sweet cream. Chopped ham with chopped black olives and grated cheese. Thinly sliced tongue with French mustard and chopped chives. Thin slices of roast beef with English mustard or horse- radish and sweet cream. Thin slices of roast lamb with garlic butter. Thin slices of roast veal with anchovy butter. Sliced salami with herbed mayonnaise. Thinly sliced onion and cucumber. Chopped green olives and mayonnaise. Chopped green olives and nuts mixed with cream cheese. Chopped green olives and chopped eggs with mayonnaise. Thinly sliced avocado with garlic butter. Cream cheese and chives with cucumber. Watercress with butter or butter and mayonnaise. High quality Roquefort, Bleu Cheese or Gruyere with butter Thinly sliced cheddar cheese and cucumber. Thinly sliced cucumbers and mushrooms with butter Thinly sliced hard boiled smoked turkey eggs with butter or mayonnaise Thinly sliced avocado with mustard flavored mayonnaise. Roquefort cheese that has been blended with butter and cream cheese. Chopped green olives and nuts blended with cream cheese. Finely chopped green pepper bound with mayonnaise Cream cheese* blended with fresh horse-radish Cream cheese* and chives with cucumber Cream cheese* that has been blended with chopped chives, French mustard and black pepper Cream cheese* that has been blended with Indian chutney and butter Cream cheese* blended with chopped chives, French mustard, salt and pistachio nuts. * Note: Cream cheese used in tea sandwiches should have a minimum fat content of 16%.

Melissa, Hi... In the name of both sanity and good taste, I will refrain from commenting about Subway. I'm afraid that when it comes to sandwiches my heart still belongs to a place known affectionately to the students of Stuyvesant High School (in its incarnation of East 15th Street) as "Ptomaine Joe's" where the ideal hero sandwich consisted of a bread somewhere about 300 grams in weight, that sliced in half lengthwise, half coated generously with the mustard that was once known as "New York Deli mustard" and filled with (in my case) about eight slices of ham, five of Emmenthal or Gruyere cheese, on that a few scattered anchovies, a generous amount of Romaine lettuce, an equally generous amount of tomatoes, and all of that sprinkled over with Joe's (his real name was Giuseppe) special spicy vinaigrette sauce. To the best of my knowledge at least five people who later won Nobel prizes dined at Ptomaine Joe's. Not to mention several of the major civil rights leaders, a few future senators. Oh yes....and not a few mafiosi. Apologies if off topic for the thread, but the idea of real sandwiches triggered old memories.

Sarah, Hi... May I suggest that you read my article about hosting wine-tasting parties at http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/art_tasting_party.html . Going past that, especially in a fund-raiser at which there will be a fairly large number of participants be absolutely certain that you: (a) Have one wine knowledgeable person who is clearly "in charge" and who will lead the tasting. Ideally that person will not be one of the "crowd" attending and not a wine merchant as merchants are busy selling wines and not experiencing them. You may well find that because this is a charitable event, one of the local wine writers will contribute his/her time to this. (b) Plan the tasting with that person well in advance, deciding with him/her what wines will be served, in what order, how many glasses will be required per person at each table, and how much time that person estimates the evening will take. © Because this is to be a "guided tasting", the person you find should have a personality strong enough not to dominate but to lead the group and avoid the evening turning into panedmonium. (d) Be sure to have enough people on hand to serve the wines as they are required (e) In addition to charging a fee for attending, consider having enough bottles donated that you will be able to auction them off towards the middle (but not the end) of the tasting (perhaps on the breakbetween whites and reds) (f) Be 100% sure to let your guide know that the people who are coming are not expecting a highly techinical or snob-laded event but they will want at least some details about each of the wines they are tasting. (g) Also drop a hint to the guide that it might be wise, towards the onset of the evening, to have him/her give a few general hints about tasting wines, and that you may even want to give people pages on which they can write their impressions. Should you like, you'll find such a downloadable page at http://www.tobypress.com/rogov/tasting.pdf Hope this helps. Should you need more information you can of course ask here or if you prefer contact me by email at drogov@cheerful.com

Nicolai,Hello.... I agree with you that tabbouleh originated in Lebanon. I think you will also agree with me though that the entire Middle-East is an area in which recipes cross borders far more easily than do people. I think you will also find that even though tabbouleh itself originated in Lebanon, the dish cannot be fully historically Lebanese - tomatoes of course having been introduced not from the Middle East but from the New World. I also agree with you that some of the best tabbouleh in the world is to be found in Lebanon. That does not, however, mean that one can not find superb tabbouleh in Al Quds (Jerusalem to many), Jaffa, Uhm Al Fahm, Akko, and yes, even in Tel Aviv's Carmel Market as well as in London and Paris, Cyprus. In fact, I recall a marvelous tabbouleh served on the Island of Corfu. As a perhaps counter-example, there is no question but that couscous as we know it today as a dish (e.g. couscous complet) originated in the Maghreb but that some of the finest couscous restaurants in the world are today to be found in Paris, Lyon, Marseilles and indeed even Rome. As to the questions you put earlier, I have indeed dined on dishes in nearly all of the regions, countries and broad geographic areas to which you refer. True, I have avoided dining in several of those because carrying (among others) an Israeli passport, I seem to have failed in developing an overt wish to suicide. With all due respect, and believe me, I do have respect for many things, I suggest that we keep in mind that Nicolas Chauvin was rather a laughing stock. I also suggest that Nestor Roqueplan was wrong when he swore in the cathedral at Chartres that "only a Frenchman will ever be able to make sauce beurre blanc". Chauvinism may have its place in real-politik but I think it best put aside when it comes to the culinary world.

I didn't see that earlier thread, but there is no mystery at all to why pink became the traditional color of pastry boxes - the tradition starting during the reign of Louis XIV, le Roi Soleil in France when the mark of success for any patissierie was a royal license, that always stamped in pink and the color being taken on by pastry shops throughout France as a sign of their increased "status". It should be noted that during the French Revolution the color almost vanished from sight, no-one wanting to be associated in such a blatant way with royalty. that might have been too quick a way to the guillotine! The color made its comeback in the late 18th century and at least in part of Europe (e.g. France, Belgium, Monte Carlo, Italy, and parts of Germany and Austria) being associated even today with quality pastry shops.

A Passion for Balsamico Daniel Rogov Among the souvenirs that Christopher Columbus brought back from his second trip to the New World were twelve balsam pine saplings. Although the trees were indigenous to North America they took root comfortably in Europe, especially in Italy. Today, North Americans know the balsam pine largely because of its use as Christmas trees. Italians, on the other hand, use the wood of these trees primarily to make barrels in which to the produce balsamico or, as Americans know it, balsamic vinegar. Even though balsamico has been well known to Europeans for nearly five hundred years, Americans only began to learn about the charms of this fragrant, sweet and sour vinegar about a decade ago. Since the first balsamic vinegars appeared on American shelves (including several that are kosher) some of the more snobbish among us are now claiming that once having tasted it, it is impossible to return to using anything else. That is a distinct exaggeration, but because balsamic vinegar can add a special touch of charm to many dishes, it is definitely worth getting to know. Despite its newfound popularity, very few (especially it seems those who import and sell it) seem to know very much about balsamic vinegar. There are few secrets. True balsamic vinegar is made in Modena, not far from Bologna in Italy, by crushing white Trebbiano grapes, heating the juice and then aging it in wood barrels so that its becomes more concentrated and intense in both aroma and flavor. Those new to buying this vinegar should be aware that the very best examples age in wood casks, and the vinegar is transferred from barrel to barrel for between three and sixty years. Some producers use different kinds of wood in their barrels, but at one stage or another all use balsam, for it is the gummy and oily aromatic resins from this wood that give true balsamico its distinctive flavors and aromas. Simply stated, the longer the vinegar has been aged in wood, the richer will be its deep brown color, the more enchanting will be its sweet and sour flavor, and the less pungent will be its aroma. The words "aceto balsamico tradizionale" on labels indicate that the vinegar in the bottle has been aged for more than three years and that the vinegar was aged in at least four different barrels, each made of a different kind of wood, before it was bottled. Buyers should also be aware that much of the balsamic vinegar now being sold is unaged. That does not mean that one should not buy these vinegars, for even though they lack qualities of greatness, they have a pleasing sweetness and a good balance of flavors not found in other vinegars. Nearly all of the balsamic vinegars available here come in aged and unaged versions. The unaged vinegars range in price from NIS Most versions come in simple bottles. A few come in designer bottles and these should be avoided because even though they contain precisely the same vinegar, they cost 40 - 70% more. Following are my evaluations of several widely available balsamic vinegars available. As always, scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. Vinegars rated 90 - 100 are those I consider outstanding and those that earn 80 - 89 are good to excellent. Those that score 70 - 79 are average and at least somewhat faulted. Adriano Grosolli 92 Fini 89 Ca' d'este 89 Ca' d'este (kosher) 89 De Nigris 85 Mazetti 83 Monari Federazoni 80 Regardless of their scores, all are appropriate for sprinkling over roast chicken, grilled vegetables, salads or with fruits such as melons. The way to taste balsamic vinegar is to place a drop or two on the back of the hand, rub it vigorusly with the palm of the other hand, then to inhale deeply and finally to lick the palm with the tongue. Those who want to exaggerate or to make an impression on their acquaintances excess should consider buying vintage balsamico such as a 250 ml. bottle of the 1939 vinegar of De Nigris which costs more than $1,300. Those who want to go to major excess can buy one or more half liter bottles of the 1727 balsamic vinegar of Adriano Grossoli for $122,000 each.

Following are several recipes taken from my little book “The Diverse Israeli Table – Dining Out in Israel” Coriander Seasoned Soup of Jerusalem Artichokes A recipe by chef Golan Aladjem 400 gr. Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and sliced juice of 2 lemons 1 1/2 Tbsp. coriander seeds 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds about 2 Tbsp. of olive oil 5 shallots, peeled and sliced thinly 5 sprigs of fresh coriander 1 1/2 liters chicken stock 1/2 cup dry white wine salt and freshly ground white pepper Place the Jerusalem artichokes in a small bowl, pour over cold water to cover and add the juice of the lemons. Let stand for 5 – 10 minutes In a dry skillet roast the coriander and cumin seeds over a medium flame and then grind them to a powder in a coffee mill. Heat the olive oil in a soup pot (about 2 1/2 liters). Add the shallots and saute for 5 minutes and then add the Jerusalem artichokes and saute for 5 minutes longer. Add the coriander sprigs and 3/4 of the ground coriander and cumin seeds and cook for another minute. Add the wine wine and cook until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Add the stock and cook over a low heat until the artichokes are softened. Transfer to a blender and blend to a uniform mixture. Strain, bring to a boil, taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Distribute the soup into separate soup bowls, and sprinkle over the remaining spice mixture. (Serves 4 – 6). Leg of Lamb with Puree of Jerusalem Artichokes A Recipe by chefs Tamar Blay and Ezra Kedem 1 leg of lamb about 1 1/2 kilos 1/2 cup olive oil 5 – 6 sprigs thyme, chopped finely coarse salt 8 cloves garlic, halved 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard salt and freshly ground pepper 2 cups lamb stock For the Jerusalem artichokes: 1/2 kilo Jerusalem artichokes, peeled salt, pepper, olive oil, and lemon juice to taste 1 tsp. parsley, chopped finely For the garlic confit: 200 gr. large garlic cloves 1 cup olive oil 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs thyme 1 tsp. coarsely crushed pepper Dip a muslin cloth in the olive oil and with this rub the meat thoroughly, coating well. Sprinkle the meat with the chopped thyme, patting with the hands so that the thyme adheres. Cover with a cloth and let stand for 3 hours. Sprinkle the lamb with coarse salt and pepper. Heat a heavy iron skillet and in this sear the meat on all sides. Remove from the skillet. With a sharp knife cut slits in the meat and into these insert the halved garlic cloves. Coat the meat with the mustard. Transfer the meat to a lightly oiled baking pan and roast in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius for 30 – 40 minutes. While the meat is in the oven prepare the puree by cooking the Jerusalem artichokes in about 2 liters of water until just beginning to soften. Remove from the water, strain and chop coarsely. Add salt, pepper, olive oil, parsley and lemon juice to taste. Prepare the garlic confit: Place the garlic cloves in 1/2 liter of cold water, bring to a boil, reduce the flame and let simmer for about 5 minutes. Strain. Transfer the garlic to a clean saucepan and add the olive oil, bay leaves, pepper and thyme and bring to a boil. Cook for about 30 minutes. Place the lamb stock in a saucepan and cook until thick and reduced to about 1/4 of its original volume. Just before serving, slice the meat to 1/2 cm. thick slices. To serve, place a generous amount of the artichoke puree in the center individual serving plates. On this distribute the lamb slices and on those 1 Tbsp. or more of the concentrated lamb stock. Scatter a bit of olive oil around and sprinkle over with the garlic confit. (Serves 4). Red Mullet Salad with Cream of Jerusalem Artichokes A recipe by chef Yaron Kestenbaum For the red mullets: 4 red mullets (each about 200 gr.), scaled and cut into boneless fillets 2 Tbsp. olive oil several drops of Pastis or other Anise based liquor lemon juice coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1/2 tsp. chopped thyme For the artichoke cream: 4 Jerusalem artichokes, about 7 cm long each, peeled and cleaned 20 gr. butter 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1/2 tsp. chopped thyme salt and freshly ground pepper to taste For the tomato butter: 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded and cut into small cubes 40 gr. butter 1/2 tsp. white wine 2 leaves each basil and oregano, both chopped 1 clove garlic, sliced thinly For the herb salad: 4 leaves each roquette, purple basil, tarragon, endive, coriander and chervil Prepare the fish: In a small bowl mix together 1 Tbsp. of the olive oil, the Pastis, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste and the thyme. Place the fish fillets in this mixture, toss gently and then remove the fillets to a clean plate. Let stand for about 20 minutes. While the fish are standing prepare the artichoke cream: In a small ovenproof casserole, melt the butter and then mix in the olive oil, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Add the artichokes and toss well, making sure they are well coated by the other ingredients. Place these in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius and bake until the artichokes are completely soft. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and with a metal blade puree finely. Strain and place in a saucepan. Prepare the tomato butter by combining all of the ingredients in a stainless steel pot and heating over a low flame just until small bubbles begin to appear around the edges. (The sauce should be warm but not hot to the touch of a finger) Just before serving, heat the remaining Tbsp. of olive oil in a stick-proof skillet over a high flame. In this singe the fish fillets for about ½ minutes on each side (being sure to singe the skin side first). Set aside to keep warm. Warm the artichoke cream and distribute this in the center of each of two serving plates. On the artichoke cream place 2 fish fillets and over all drip a bit of the tomato butter and a few of the herbs and serve. (Serves 4). Sea Bass in a Cream of Jerusalem Artichokes A recipe by chef Ruby Portnoy For the artichoke cream: 200 gr. Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into medium sized cubes 150 gr. leeks, washed and cut to cubes 80 gr. butter 1/2 liter. fish stock 1/2 cup sweet cream salt and a pinch of nutmeg For the curry butter: 100 gr. shallots, chopped 1 Tbsp. honey 1 flat tsp. curry 2 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar 1 cup fish stock 100 gr. butter For the fish: 4 sea bass fillets, about 200 gr. each 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 tsp. coriander seeds salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Prepare the artichoke cream by sauteeing the leeks in the butter until translucent. Add the Jerusalem artichokes, saute for 3 – 4 minutes longer and then add the fish stock. Cook until the Jerusalem artichokes are soft, and then grind them and strain through a fine strainer. Bring to a boil, remove from the flame, add the sweet cream and whisk well. Prepare the curry butter: Place the shallots, honey, curry and Sherry vinegar in a saucepan. Over a medium flame bring to a boil and then let simmer until reduced by about one quarter. Add the fish stock and continue to simmer until the mixture is reduced by about half. Strain through a fine strainer, return to the flame, and beat in the butter until melted. Whisk a bit until the sauce is smooth throughout. Remove from the flame. Preparing the fish: Brush the fillets with a little olive oil and then add the coriander seeds and salt and pepper to taste. Fry in the olive oil for about 2 minutes on each side. To serve, distribute the artichoke cream in the center of four plates and on this place the fish fillets and around the fish pour the curry butter. Pour a little of the curry butter around the fish place the cream in the center of the plate and on it place the fish. (Serves 4).