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akwa

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Everything posted by akwa

  1. i am in a bit of a quagmire having changed careers and moved into the world of private patronage from public exhibitionism and subsequent public flogging i find myself with the time to consider various options for my mid morning snack on one of my two days off right now i am torn between a bacon egg and cheese sandwich from the deli on the corner of 20th and park, and a chicken parm stromboli from the pizzeria on third between 20th and 21st fortunately i have been in this position before, but on the road between turin and firenze If the Medes darken the sun, then we shall have our fight in the shade. Dieneces David Mamet’s Spartan returns me to another narrow mountain pass: the ascent from Savoie across the Alps to Turin. I can’t stop thinking about the oyster. A cube of watermelon. A sprig of frisee. A wisp of smoked tuna. A crumble of almond praline. Two cubes, alike in dignity, in fair Rivoli, where we make our scene. The first is nothing; it is impossible. Close your eyes; the second is an oyster. Unlike Gatsby’s dream, Davide Scabin’s virtual oyster is exactly what it claims to be. Just close your eyes. wait maybe it was the road from turin towards san remo?
  2. like a 1.29 version of ducasse's famous palet monte carlo How does it taste? ←
  3. Miami vices Marinetti and the atkins ...l’artiste culinaire n’obtiendrait-il pas un sens “inne” en reunissant dans un meme plat des graisses, ..., du glucose et du sel? Herve This A comic sensibility is essential if one is to outmaneuver ubiquitous exploitation... Tom Robbins 3. Keep your station orderly. Daniel Boulud NEW YORK, August 15-The sky is falling. All the cool places to go have been bombed. The dollar is worthless. And some bizzarre manipulation of a high protein diet has become fashionable. It is unclear exactly what health benefits this diet may have, other than that people who are already in top condition swear by its efficiency. In reality, this diet is no different from any other, in that it is a way to commercialize boredom rather than creativity. The only choice is to push forward in gastronomy. This drive must recognize the universal appreciation for fat and sugar. Properly constructed, this soothing sensation may transport the guest by slipping off her socks. Why then, the need to strip cuisine of joy? Perhaps it is part of this nation’s collective conscience that a pleasure, by its nature, is destructive. El Bulli has risen to the forefront of innovative cuisine with their imagination. (By the way, selling ideas rather than “roast chicken” had never even been attempted.) Albert and Ferran never forget that people want fries and candy, first and last. In the same vein, Gagnaire has developed Herve This’ Molecular Gastronomy in the form of a foie gras and glucose symphony. To create is not to copy, said Maximin. That goes for personal philosophy as well. So what tools are at our disposal to recreate Beuys’ fat blanket? A return to infancy. A true zero. A Combal.0. A real diet can be formed with a real relationship to a real person. The core of all known political and gastronomic movements are intimate. Only when the initial “best intentions” are made digestible for mass consumption do they sacrifice relevance. Therefore we identify the essential ingredient in any sustainable diet. The concept that completes the consumer. In a word: love. Love is this: that two solitudes border, protect, and salute each other. Rilke How ironic, that a nation obsessed with same sex unions, ignores on a nightly basis the same sexyless unions of proteins without starch or fat. But historical precedents abound for the apparent incongruity: random free association often evolve into fascist monotony. The last original thoughts in cuisine and politics ended badly: Nobody wanted to eat Marinetti’s salami in cafe; and although wildly popular and fashionable, Fascism failed to maintain the Futurists initial inverted openness. Unlike the abolition of pastasciutta, La Cuisine Nouvelle was embraced by a new nearly global culture. In time too, the desire for fresh food became just as systematic and repressive as the original grand cuisine it replaced. Guerard’s cuisine minceur became a commercial. To be fair, the Fascist evolution wouldn’t have proven too popular in the valley. Then again, maybe it would have. This morning for breakfast I had the Zone diet peanut butter and chocolate bar.
  4. akwa

    Cru

    the cyber egg from davide scabin at al combal in almese now at combal zero at the rivoli castle outside turin
  5. if you get bounced try goldfarb.will@gmail.com we are just beginning production and have filled our first retail orders, thank you all for the warm responses it has been an exciting project so far
  6. do animal rights activists stop wearing leather shoes? or wait a minute, wouldnt it be nice if geese protectionists had the same enthusiasm for people?
  7. create a grid of your techniques and ingredients use that to map your menus as well it is helpful to incorporate new techniques and ingredients without any repetition
  8. if you want no color, the best way is to use isomalt, it is the only sugar i have used consistently for isomalt that doesnt color at 160C caramelizing rice krispies is the same as anyother praline you may have to adjust your percentage of sugar by weight to make up for the fact that rice krispies have an exceptionally large ratio of surface area to mass hope this is helpful
  9. which he btw herve this wrote the forward for the original edition why the change all the same what a great book takes the fact that two generations of swiss, etc. are using these techniques and eats their lunch
  10. would be interested to participate in your project or just support wg pm?
  11. clean up for them generally this will force them to address the issue or allow them to ignore it you will either be inspirational or fire worthy otherwise find a chef who is as diligent about cleaning as you
  12. akwa

    Falai

    i guess that would make me a pastry chef leashed as usual sort of good review i guess new yorkers will have to remember to use chicken livers generally, and always serve "italian" food, even if bruni's number one complaint is that there are too many italian restaurants. I am perplexed by the review. It is good to see a pastry chef recognized, like Heather at Lassi, as actually being able to prepare something. I am looking forward to trying Falai.
  13. akwa

    Maple Extract?

    premium compound co in california probably best for patisserie in america
  14. what possible additional recommendation could you need to eat at one of the great chefs of the last 1/4 century if not longer hell, i wish i could even think about going
  15. akwa

    Maple Extract?

    did you try amoretti?
  16. have no problem with preservatives have the wybauw book and regarding moisture it seems to be the standard relative humidity charts i received in 1999 from a Richard seminar awesome book to be sure clear and convincing but still want more little reference implied to vacuum, less recipes including real preservatives and therefore still rides the fence. No question one of the superior books on the subject. what strength invertase do you recommend? liquid or solid? also re vacuum technique: i am waiting for the inicon blender which has this pressure elimination capacity, could you make a traditional ganache and then vacuum seal to remove the air, and then freeze before processing? or would it be more practical to make ganache, freeze, and then vacuum?
  17. steve i humbly request your help as i dont know how to split threads couldnt one master thread feed into all? maybe more detail would be desirable pm organization avant tout choses
  18. Treat everyone with respect
  19. akwa

    cryoextraction

    ps interestingly the chinese use a technique for green vegetables (i saw from cheong liew and then tim pak poy in australia) to wok cook from frozen, therefore the water is essentialy steamed out before the vegetables over cook, therefore staying green and crispy in very short time losing all that foul vegetable water
  20. akwa

    cryoextraction

    yes should work and is a great idea but you need maximum extraction and this has been difficult for me to obtain while keeping the product cold it also works to freeze fruit purees and hang them in the refrigerator, as the higher sugar liquid passes through first
  21. Sorry for the confusion Simdelish re preparation, I dont know where you are located, but have you considered contacting your local cooking school to ask for some kitchen space? Generally very helpful, might even give you some stagiares, but for sure you will have all the equipment and more, particularly large items like batch freezer. Re sifons, you can find anywhere or shipped easily, and you can fill to order and refill if necessary. Do you have a budget? re spoon mounted, i meant making petits on a spoon, like a canape or "morphing" to use the parlance of our times agar agar i use 2.6g for 500ml as a base recipe. if you want to be more stiff you can of course use more. if you are using alcohol or acidity, make sure that the texture is as firm as you want, as both of these will have a debilitating effect. Wendy I am sorry to not have good photos anymore. Pate de fruit, cut into 2x2cm squares, hollowed out with a 10 parisienne or melon baller, and refilled with something. I have had good sucess with an emulsion of the scraps with 60% their weight in evoo, honey, yogurt (that's 20% weight of scraps each). re shots of lemon mousse procede as lemon curd, subbing egg whites for yolks, siphon is the name of whipped cream machine shot glass, lemon mousse, dark brown sugar sprinkled on top, fresh micro basil good color, round taste, great aroma hope this is helpful
  22. great analysis steve i agree that a single paco with 12 to 24 cannisters, supplemented by a tabletop coldelite/carpigiani is a good recommendation. i found that vacuum sealing the deep frozen pacos is a great way to go, but also this system requires great vigilance, organization, and most of all, sufficient freezer space at at least 2 temperatures. Regards to cd100 pieces, I still feel that the door and chamber design is among the poorest of any kitchen equipment I have ever seen. The reason I suggested bumping up the size is for the more desirable metal face guards, door openers, which are not as desperate to lose themselves. with regards to rings, et al, i kept a fish flat of duplicate pieces to ensure that i was in commission. As well, I have never been in volume over 1000, i would be interested to hear how grand hotels execute. Great thread and lots of helpful advice.
  23. great link do you know the machine called a gastrovac? it looks very similar to me and I am getting one next week i will contact the distributor it is of course much smaller great thread wg
  24. sourcing for invertase? equipment necessary for processing under vacuum? steve re 85% i use frequently, and i dont think the varietal is lost if paired with complementary flavor only if contrasting thanks wg
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