John Talbott

Simplest version: "Bonjour monsieur/madame. Je voudrais reserver une table pour une/deux/trois/etc pour ce soir à/vers vingt -vingt deux/etc heures. Oui, une/deux/trois/etc couverts. Le nom est Blocker. Fumeur/non-fumeur. Merci À ce soir/bientot/toute à l'heure or Au [re]voir." Now people who genuinely speak French can plunge in.

I wanted to bring to members' attention the fact that while the Pinned thread above on Compendia looks static and frozen at 23 February 2006, in fact, I continually edit and add to it but since I'm not adding new posts, it's not reflected in changes in the date. (I do this in order to keep the list in alpha order.) In any case, if you're looking for a compendium on some subject or region, check it out, I may have added it since last time. And if you don't see what you're looking for, PM me, and I'll try to put one together ASAP. John

Since I seem to be the only person who obsesses about Aspen, I suppose it’s only fair to report on our culinary experiences there last week. As is our wont, we first tried new places or new chefs at old places, of which there were/are eight: D19, Jour de Fete, Texas Red’s BBQ, Dish, Brunelleschi’s Dome Pizza, Plato’s, Ajax Tavern + Crust. We skipped Jour de Fete, because it's a breakfast-lunch place and Crust, a pizza place, because it is at Aspen Highlands, but hit all the rest. Of the newbies, we thought Plato’s at the Aspen Meadows, in the Aspen Institute complex, with a spectacular vista over the valley, was the best. My 22 ounce “cowboy” ribeye steak was undercooked to perfection and my wife Colette’s gazpacho and mussels were quite good as were the rolls. I thought the brisket, sautéed spinach, fries and coleslaw at Texas Red’s BBQ were pretty good but Colette found the salmon taco tasteless - all the portions were enormous. Likewise, I liked the “giant” duck leg with beluga lentils at Dish, chef’d since June 1st by Matthew Zubrod from Willow Creek, but Colette found the cod with about 20 veggies too salty and cluttered; after sending it back, the second try was not overly salted. The bio wine was great but the foccacia only so-so. Chef Dena Marino, along with her signature Roman artichoke (one of the finest single dishes anywhere,) has moved from the Ajax Tavern to the old Colony space by Wagner Park, now called D19, and for some strange reason, both places seem to have suffered: Ajax’s formerly great Italian cooking is now only passible if judged by the figs in pancetta and marghuerita pizzetta we had; and at D19, while my calamarata with clams and mussels were tasty, C’s minestrone was watery and bland and her limoncello sorbet devoid of limoncello. Luckily the bread was fantastic. Finally, we were so looking forward to eating at Brunelleschi’s Dome Pizza with Ross King’s book in the window and the old wood oven that the prior place – Merlin’s – used to make great pizzas in, but no, both pizzas (shrimp and sausage and mushrooms) were salty and bad. Of the old places, it’s a tough call to declare the best. Takah Sushi is always a joy and they’ve used the new space well. However, we give Gusto’s a rave review for the second year in a row. The bar menu at lunch, a salad and anything off the menu plus a soft drink for $12 is the best price-quality meal on the continent and their pizza with a huge mound of arugula, overlaid with strips of good prosciutto and topped with parmesan strips was very good, although too big for one person. The wonderfully marinated mushrooms on the rigatoni was splendid. Many folks think Montagna is the tops in Aspen and I like Chef Ryan Hardy’s food, but more at night than at lunch (the menu is simply not as interesting). My fish and chips were quite good and C’s salad with mache, parmesan, mint and zucchini was good, but expensive. Second in a lot of opinions, is Blue Maize where despite the incredibly watered down margaritas and loud din of conversation, we had a fun meal of chips and guacamole and salsa and chipotle chicken with citrus-y sauce on an incredible bed of quinoa with onion, garlic, peas and exploding spices. Then, to Zocalito where we enjoyed the shrimp escabeche and chicken “mole” (at least their take on mole). Finally, the Wild Fig; a place we loved last year (having loved it’s predecessor – Torino – even better) but where the price of wine is vaulting out of sight and the dishes (“Asian” gazpacho and pasta with sausage) was not great enough to compensate. One final note since in my other life I “digest” French periodicals for the France Forum and appreciate good restaurant criticism, if you are going to Aspen, check out Arts’ Critic Stewart Oksenhorn’s reviews in the Aspen Times, this for example; they’re interesting to read and well-informed.

I could only find one mention of Gertrude's here and that concerned Sunday brunch so I'd like to note that my wife Colette and I had a wonderful al fresco dinner here Saturday. Chef John Shields has been at the Baltimore Museum of Art 7 years and I'm embarassed to say that we largely go for light lunches despite seeing his book "Coastal Cooking" in full view that clearly shows his expertise with fish products. Our soft-shelled crabs and clams (two dishes) were very good. We'll go back, as should visitors, who will soon be able to utilize the free admission policy at the BMA (one of Baltimore's poorly known but rich treasures).

Pyrenees This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Pyrenees Collioure, Le Neptune September in the Pyrenees Biarritz and the Basque Country French Catalan Toulouse, Auch

The Week of July 24th, 2006 This week’s NouvelObs has another article (which was accessible for a few days but now seems to require registration) by Jean-Marcel Bouguereau on the Young Chefs movement particularly mentioning: Thierry Marx, Jean-Paul Abadie, David Zuddas, Jean Marie Baudic, Jean Chauvenel, Jullian Pekle, Olivier Bellin, Laurent Peugeot and Fernand Braudel and some of their elders – Pierre Gagnaire, Joel Robuchon and Oliviere Roellinger (see the thread on the subject by Felice.) For those interested in the top 150 places selected in conjunction with Omnivore, whose book “Le Carnet de Route” will be in the bookstores in September, look here. Those in Paris listed in the original article, included: 1st – Kai 2nd – Angl’Opera, Drouant 4th – Mon Viel Ami, Benoit 6th – Le Comptoir du Relais, Fogon, Ze Kitchen Galerie 7th – Chez l’Ami Jean, l’Arpege 8th – La Table du Lancaster, Les Saveurs de Flora, Les Ambassadeurs, Le Bristol 9th – Jean 11th – Le Refectoire 13th – l’Avant Gout, l’Ourcine 14th – Le Beurre Noisette 16th – l’Astrance 18th – La Famille Ile de France – Le Pouilly, Laurent Trochain, Les Magnolias, Le Transversal And also Aux Lyonnais, Les Papilles, Le Pre Verre, Le Bistrot Paul Bert, Le Volleret, La Regalade, La Cerisaie, l’Ami Marcel, Le Baratin. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote a history of “cocktails” from Hemingway’s chambéry-cassis to the present day “Allez les bleus.” Thursday, l’Express had an article on the Tables of Summer that mentioned: Jouni in Nice, Le Lou Fassum in Grasse, La Socca in Antibes, Blanc le bistro in Toulon, La Buvette du Jardin in Biot, Café Diego in Saint Paul de Vence, Le Jardin de Marie in Saint Vallier de Thiey, La Bastide Saint Louis in Caussols and La Brasserie des Arts in Saint Tropez. In addition they published an article June 26th on their 20 “coups de coeur” of the year, including: La Pizzetta, Le Cesar, Kai, Chaumette, Ozu, La Ferrandaise, Le Transversal, La Gazzetta, Le Ribouldingue, Il Cortile, l’Altro, Aux Zingots, Corneil, Bistro Volnay, Le cafe M, Les Symples de l’os a moelle, Mori Venice Bar, Le Chateaubriand, Jour + Fogon. Thursday as well Le Point’s food section was devoted to the Gers area covering the Relais & Chateau Domaine de Bassibé plus La Florida, Le Puits-Saint-Jacques, La Bonne Auberge, La Table des Cordeliers, l’Auberge de Saint-Mont, Le Pigeonneau, La Ferme de Flaran + Chez Simon. I also missed in Le Figaro of June 6th a wonderful book review of “Rosbifs” by Bénédict Beaugé, entitled “War of the Chefs” that provides a “delicious” history and has “astonishing” prints and other illustrations. En Ville, courtesy of Felice, had an article on Inaki Aziparte’s favorite places, aside from his own Chateaubriand, including his wine supplier – Le Verre Vole, vegetable guy, Joel Thiebaut and cheese store Boursault. On the les Resto website that is one of the most accurate early warning systems to new resto openings in Paris, comes word that the Miss Betsey bunch will take over Le Buisson Ardent, 25, rue Jussieu in the 5th, 01.43.54.93.02 serving rather classical food. Another new place, also sounding classical and basic was featured on the RestoaParis site which has quirky but sometimes interesting finds is Les Lauriers 14, rue de Thann in the 17th, 01.42.27.25.43, closed weekends, lunch menu at 25 €, a la carte 30-60 € but half-liter carafes of wine at 12 €. And while at that site, I saw that the 75 year old Roger la Grenouille, 26, rue des Grands Augustins in the 6th, 01.56.24.24.34, closed Sundays, that features and has an essence of guess what in every dish has been taken over by folks from Allard. It too sounds interesting. For completeness, I’ll list the other places they “love” despite not having heard anything elsewhere about them: Le Winch, Chez Cristina, La Grande Ourse, La Girondine, Le Traversière, Le Jardinier, Au Métro, Kiwi Corner + Tine. This summer’s issue of France, the US version, has an article on the Loire in which it singles out Restaurant les Tonnelles on the island of Behuard. The British France for September, meanwhile, features the Dordogne and suggests the Auberge des Charmilles, Les Voyageurs, Le Sablier du Temps, Hotel des Voyageurs, Hotel du Lac + Au Rendezvous des Pecheurs all with both rooms and a restaurant and the resto l’Auvergnassou. Another feature on Talloires mentions Pere Bise, l’Abbaye de Talloires + La Villa des Fleurs. Finally in Honfleur they touted Au Vieux Honfleur, l’Ecallieur + Bacaretto. Sunday John Talbott had an article in Bonjour Paris called “What makes Ze so great” and Margaret Kemp one on “Mellors Le Jardinier” covering Ze Kitchen Galerie + Le Jardinier respectively. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

As far as I know they should all be open in August, however not of all of the vendors will be there. There was a noticeable decrease in the number of vendors at my market last week. ← Last year I noted that Joel Thibault etc's presence in front of the Palais de Tokyo was anemic but my local market (Rue du Poteau) was reduced in quantity d/t the absence of customers, but in full swing in terms of variety.

Welcome Lucil. We have a bunch of compendia in the pinned area above you may want to check since the one on Cooking Schools is quite extensive.

There are a couple of prior threads that cover what food, etc., to bring back from France (see Margaret Pilgrim's) and mine for both ways, and lengthy discussions on Customs' Rules, for instance here. What I don't think we've seen much of here is related to the cost of shipping and I look forward to reading more. It's been our practice to try to bring as much as possible as checked baggage, especially electronic items that are three times more costly in France, rather than ship things.

Felice is "spot on" about Chauteaubriand and I should have said it plainly before - it's not what it was a year ago. I try to review places that are either new, for instance Ribouldingue, have new chefs/owners/styles, e.g. Chateaubriand, or have moved etc., like Fogon. All three, by the way, are among the pleasant surprises of the Spring semester. As to the nature/nurture origin of the abat love/hate relationship, I plead the 5th, I always loved the sweetbreads and liver my mother over-cooked; scarfed up the heart and gizzard at Thanksgiving and thought I'd gone to heaven when I found fresh foie gras entier. To Pierre 45, Laidback and MZimbeck, thanks, and to Sibliminalkid, welcome, keep posting, the more the merrier.

Since I'm not a lifelong Baltimorean I cannot comment on when things changed at the Lexington Market, but your description is accurate. What's the sign on the building say - "World famous?" Yes, but for what?On the other hand, our farmers' markets are indeed wonderful.

I'm happy it didn't disappoint but I've transfered my loyaties from ABA to Les Anges since Jacques Lacipiere moved down the street.

What’s in the markets in France in August The following are in full season in August: anchovies, sardines, tuna, bar, crabs, calamari, ceteau, lobster, langoustines, coalfish, sole and mussels; beef, duck and pheasant; brie de Meaux, camembert, gaperon, Munster, Neufchatel, Pont l’Eveque, goat cheeses, l’Epoisses, Chaource and Reblochon; broccoli, fennel, frisee, herbs, sorrel, green beans, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, eggplant, zucchini, potatoes and fraiches (basil, parsley, chives, coriander, tarragon, etc); cepes; almonds, brugnons, figs, mirabelles, grapes, quince, plums, peaches, nectarines, melons and pears. Once again, I’m dependent on the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and Regal magazine, as well timely faxes from Felice.

Thanks Felice, but I'm not sure how widely distributed it is because I've only seen it in the Marais at that bookstore on rue des Archives.

I'm at the Hilton at night and at the Conv Center in daytime. We like all food (except I can do French just fine in Paris so need other ideas), Forget the decor, nappery, etc., it's innovative, fun cooking we're looking for. For instance I ate at a fusiony novel-spice Korean place in Toronto that was superb and inexpensive. Because I'll be at meetings except for lunch and dinner, I'd prefer to be able to walk. Thanks John

I've written and re-written my reaction to these recommendations and you know, like my Mom always tried to tell me, if you can't say anything nice, don't say anything at all..... Let's just leave it at that I would strongly encourage Union, Le Pichet, Matt's, Cafe Campagne, etc., etc. over the aforementioned.... ← Must agree (pass on Icon and Dragon in particular). I also recommend Restaurant Zoe, Flying Fish, Tango (though I haven't been in years - but thinking walking distance), Crow, Lark or Harvest Vine (short cab rides.) Cafe Campagne is very comfortable - and cassoulet is probably on the menu by now (seasonal.) Campagne is doing some promotional stuff these days, like Sunday supper. ← I'd like to revive this thread by asking about:1. any updates 2. new places 3. ethnic places not previously covered (As you can deduce from my signature, I don't mean French). 4. interesting lunch places. Thanks. John

On the “Le Fooding” website (part of the avant-guard movement in French cuisine) today was an article by Julia Sammat on being turned away at El Bulli but finding an adequate substitute in Roses called CAL CAMPANER restaurant, C/ Mossèn Carles Feliu, 23 / 17480 Tel : 972 25 69 54, closed Sunday night and Monday lunch running one about 70 €. Parenthetically I might add that I have been most impressed by places where some El Bulli graduates have set up restos nearby.

The Week of July 17th, 2006 Monday, on the Le Fooding website, Elvira Masson talks of the meals and rooms at Guy Marchand’s Grand Hôtel des Bains in Locquirec. Francois Simon in his Figaro “Croque Notes” talked of people who make multiple reservations at top places and don’t show and the way restaurants are handling the problem.. Most amusing is Jean Pierre Coffe’s calling the delinquent at 4 in the morning to enquire if he wants the brigade to anticipate him for breakfast; most scarifying is one place’s practice of charging your credit card 120 Euros. Simon also wrote an article on places in the Basque country that included: Arrantzaleak, in Ciboure, Olatua, in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Zoko Moko, in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Bar Jean, in Biarritz, Chez Albert, in Biarritz, Kafé Loko, in Guéthary, Les Platanes, in Biarritz, Sissinou, in Biarritz, Etchemaïté, in Larrau, Ferme Ostalapia, in Ahetze and Iparla, in Bidarray. I fear I missed digesting an article on the Palace hotels need to attract big chefs ever since Ducasse went to Louis XV in 1990 and later to the Plaza as well as Jean François Piège to the Crillon, Yannick Alleno to the Meurice, Eric Frechon to the Bristol, Philippe Legendre to the Four Seasons George V, and Michel Roth to the Ritz. He also anticipates “spectacular changes” after the rentrée, including Philippe Legendre of the George V going to the Tour d'Argent ? [sic]. Thursday-Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about places that are open in July and August that have changed their menus to fit more with summer, including the Citrus Etoile, dinner menu = 39 euros, L'Atelier des compères, (closed two weeks around the 15th of August), menu at 40 euros, La Cave gourmande, menu carte : 32 euros, Le Soleil, about 40 euros, Le Coq de la maison blanche, about 45 euros, the Delices d’Aphrodite, about 30 euros, all whose coordinates are either in the guidebooks or given before, except for that of the Brasserie Ascot, 66, rue Pierre-Charron in the 8th, 01.43.59.28.15, about 35 euros. Saturday-Sunday in the Weekend FT, Sue Style wrote an article entitled “All in disgracefully good taste” about Southwestern master wine classes run by a British couple at the Tastevin du Monde, Château de Bouillon in Bouillon, 05.59.81.40.95. Sunday in Bonjour Paris – Margaret Kemp wrote an article entitled “We are Open in August” that mentions: La Cour Jardin, La Terrasse du Parc, Citrus Etoile, Le Galvacher, Beauvilliers, Thoumieux, Les Ombres, La Table de Joel Robuchon, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Astier + Le Chalet des Iles and John Talbott one on the “New Hot Quarters – the 7th and 19th. Sunday’s New York Times had an article by Seth Sherwood entitled “Going to Monaco” that mentioned: the Louis XV, Maya Bay, Beefbar, + La Mandarine. And, I missed digesting his article June 18th on “Going to Bordeaux” mentioning: Quai Zaco, Le K Baroque, + Le Café du Theatre. Rosa Jackson in the July-August Paris Notes’s “Paris Bites,” reviews three places all of whose coordinates have been given; she is most enthusiastic about Les Papilles where the fourme d’Ambert with a prune and chocolate cappuccino were the best part; she was less impressed at l’Os a Moelle complaining about the delay in serving the wine but rushed-ness of service of the food and found the cheese inedible, the foie gras “ordinary” and mousse banal (my word); but also found the “menu surprise” at Chez Les Anges to be rather good. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Yet more: coordinates known: Sunday in Bonjour Paris that one must subscribe to to read the whole text – Margaret Kemp wrote an article entitled “We are Open in August" that mentions: La Cour Jardin, La Terrasse du Parc, Citrus Etoile, Le Galvacher, Beauvilliers, Thoumieux, Les Ombres, La Table de Joel Robuchon, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Astier + Le Chalet des Iles.

More: Thursday-Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about places that are open in July and August that have changed their menus to fit more with summer, including the Citrus Etoile, dinner menu = 39 euros, L'Atelier des compères, (closed two weeks around the 15th of August), menu at 40 euros, La Cave gourmande, menu carte : 32 euros, Le Soleil, about 40 euros, Le Coq de la maison blanche, about 45 euros, the Delices d’Aphrodite, about 30 euros, all whose coordinates are either in the guidebooks or given before, except for the Brasserie Ascot, 66, rue Pierre-Charron in the 8th, 01.43.59.28.15, about 35 euros, open everyday.

Hah, you think Hachette would listen to the likes of us, don't I wish.I too would like to welcome you now that I've figured out that you're the author of that fabulous blog. To add to this thread, however, I should note that two other resources, more or less weekly on restos/entertainment are TimeOut's On Line version and Spectacles that I find a cheaper and paler imitation of Pariscope. Two other pubs that have restos and events in English, that our colleagues/members contibute to are Rosa Jackson's Paris Bites in Paris Notes and Fresh_a's resto reviews in Gogo Paris that used to be hard copy and now is on line. PS I check them out weekly for the Digest.

Yes, expensive. My review is here.

I also read that they were considering creating an online version of Zurban. I hope it’s true, but can’t imagine it will be as good as the print version. I guess we will have to wait and see. I’m still weary of the reviews in Pariscope and wonder if they are little more than paid advertisements. Was Hachette the owner of both Zurban and Pariscope? I have always liked A Nous Paris and Figaroscope, but am definitely mourning the loss of Zurban. There’s also the Fooding website. ← It is indeed ironic because Zurban started as an online pub, and yes they're both owned or were owned by Hachette which used that as an argument for closing Zurban, at least according to the article in Le Figaro. As readers of the Digest may have noticed, because Hachette implied they were beefing up Pariscope's Resto section, I've been digesting it since Zurban folded but I'm not convinced they're willing to devote the resources to reviews of new restos and bars that were so popular in Zurban according to my sources.

Never been to Arnaud Daguin's new place Hegia but I love his food and it's been written up in the dailies & weeklies a lot - it's about 60 klicks from Barcus.

Sure - Figaroscope except for July & August. Not as jazzy as Zurban, but adequate for art, esp. Pariscope is best for movies, gardens, events.