John Talbott

I assume you've checked our new compendium.

Patience. I'm awaiting one missing link, so to speak, and it should go up later today. John ← Last week's Digest is up. For those addicted to reading the Digest a particular day, a summer warning; there will be delays some weeks and when things really slow at the height of summer, weeks will be combined as has happened the last two years. Happy Summer. John

The Week of May 22nd, 2006 Saturday-Sunday, in his “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon, in an article called “The narcissism of chicken” says he ate at Le Procope, a place where Pudlo, Lebey +GaultMillau salute its audacity and quality every year although his experience is that you wait a year to order, the chicken is miserable and the food doesn’t like itself and we don’t like it either. But the contrary is the case at l’Epi Dupin where the dishes (like a tatin of caramelized endives and half-cooked tuna or roast duck) are narcissistic, tender and pleasant and the menu carte is but 31 €. And finally, while everyone else is staying by their ovens as the seasons change, the peripatetic Michel del Burgo (ex-Carcassonne, Taillevent, Gordes, Negresco, Moscow, Jamin) is taking over l'Orangeraie de l'Île Saint-Louis in September, by golly! Also, over the weekend, the FT published an article by Sue Style on an American chili that has been thriving in Basque country for 400 years - the Piment d'Espelette that one often sees on Parisian menus, that probably was originally brought back by a Bayonne navigator and now has AOC status {see you can learn something everyday.} Monday on the Le Fooding website Elvira Masson wrote a piece entitled roughly “ You don’t need to finish it all” about the Italian place Tramezzino in the 9th. Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s Jerome Berger gave 4 of 5 blocks to Ribouldingue, coordinates above, which he obviously loved, mentioning in particular the 25 € “menu,” the starter of artichoke and the dessert that was better than his companion’s grandmother made. Philippe Toinard, meanwhile, got stuck with 2/5 Black Calvados, 40 ave Pierre 1iere de Serbie in the 8th, 01.47.20.77.77 running one from 45 to 101 € for veggies (19 €), bass (34 €) and a California red blend (27 €). The regret is obvious – the prices. Sebastien Demorand in this week’s Zurban also sings the praises of Ribouldingue and their tripes, pork snout, cow teats and lamb’s tongue. He is less enthusiastic but not really negative about Dalva except for the prices. {For my views of these please see here}. His other reviews covered the Thai place Thai Spices in the 4th, which was spicy and the Italian place Piccola Brescia in the 20th, which he did not take a shine to. Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin in “C’est nouveau,” gave two hearts each to the revived classic bistrot Astier, 44, rue Jean Pierre Timbaud in the 11th , 01.43.57.16.35, closed weekends with a menu at 23.50, a la carte 30-35 €, for classic herrings, roast monkfish and crème caramel and the inventive l’Acajou, 35 bis, rue La Fontaine in the 16th, 01.42.88.04.47, closed Sundays with menus at 28 and 35 €, a la carte 50-60 for langoustines,m St Pierre and super chocolate soufflé named after Michael Jackson (MJ 23) that is chef’d by an ex of both Bocuse + Robuchon. One heart each went to Le Charlain, 23 rue Clauzel in the 9th and Christophe in the 5th, see my reviews for coordinates, food, etc., and Tramezzino in the 9th (mentioned above.) Le Figaroscope’s “Dossier,” {courtesy of Felice, since it was never posted on their website,} was devoted to “the New Language of Gastronomy” and featured the following words and their practitioners: Agar-agar Salon de The Toraya Bars Zood Juice Bar Bellota Bellota- Bellota Bento Boxes Kai Box wines Aux Crus de Soleil Bio Rose Bakery Biodynamism Taillevent Bistronomie Le Comptoir, le Troquet, les Papilles + Chateaubriand Eating with wine Le Verre Vole Destructured Food Spoon Equitable, as products from Max Havelaar, for more see here Finger food, such as Ethiopian, tapas and burgers Fooding {gives the usual derivation and practice} Grains Cojean + Pousse-Pousse Molecular Pierre Gagnaire Culinary Performances, such as at Bon Marche, Fraich’attitude + Fooding week Cooking on the plank Ze Kitchen Galerie Quinoa Maceo Rooibos tea Mariage Freres Slow food, see here Smoothies Cojean, Bert’s + Biotifull Place Snacking Be, Cojean + Bert’s Soba Yen Street food, such as proposed by Yves Camdeborde + Thierry Marx more here June 7 Take away Avant-Gout Cote Cellier Tapas Chateaubriand at night Tempura Bizan Texture Angl’Opera Terrines Velly Green as in fashionable design and dishes Wasabi, such as at the Grand Epicerie, Salon d’Helene + Gaya Wraps as an alternative to a sandwich Zen, as in minimalist dishes In addition, Emmanuel Rubin says several words/concepts are “out” (“has been”) such as Fusion food, World food, lounge and terroir. Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” added to the chorus hailing Ribouldingue and he answers his own traditional question of whether one should go by saying “Yes” especially for the innards at 79 € for two. L’Express Thursday had an article entitled ”The French chefs take off (again) in New York” recounting the history of the importation or transportation of French cooking to NY going back to Henri Soulé in 1939 and Alain Ducasse in 2000, specifically mentioning the three “Frenchies” [sic] - Alain Ducasse, Jean Georges and Thomas Keller (well, they say while American, he’s French-inspired) plus the three BLT restaurants and the Brasserie Ruhlmann of Laurent Tourondel (that it calls a sort of little Coupole in the heart of Gramercy) as well as the French Culinary Institute. Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde had an article by Jean Claude Ribaut on flavored vinegars that one can either buy via the web here or at Martin-Pouret. Jean-François Martin, 236, Faubourg Bannier, 45400 Fleury les Aubrais, 02.38.88.78.49. For some reason, the two articles published last week were not posted until late: one is on garlic from Arleux (midway between Arras and Cambrai) smoked in hay, sawdust and peat. It was a preparation of frogs with such powerful garlic made by Escoffier for the Prince of Wales a hundred years ago or so, that Jean Claude Ribaut says led to the English calling the French "frogs" or "froggies" [sic]; the second article is about two chefs of Artois (Pas de Calais) who are using local ingredients in ancient bourgeois dishes at Le Château de Beaulieu in Busnes and the Auberge de la Grenouillère in Montreuil sur Mer, whose signature dish is indeed frogs’ legs. Friday, Patricia Well had an article in the IHT on Thierry Marx of the Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac saying he both shocks and satisfies as well as Philippe Etchebest, chef at the Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint-Emilion. Linda Thalman’s Paris In Sites had a review of Le Kiosque in the 16th, coordinates in the guidebooks, where the service was slow but the food was good. Paris Voices had an article by Laura Van Iterson on aperitifs explaning the differences between: Dubonnet, Vermouth, Campari, Pineau des Charentes, Lillet, Byrrh, Suze, Ricard, Pastis a l’ancienne and Get 27 or Get 31. Two events on lesrestos.com website deserve mention : (1) Paul Minchelli is back, since April at Vingt et Un, 21, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.46.33.76.90 and (2) the bouillabaisse palace Le Quinson has been transformed into an Auvergnat terroir place called Le Minzingue, 5, place Etienne-Pernet in the 15th, 01.45.32.48.54, since May 15th. Sunday’s New York Times Book Review had a review of Julia Child’s “My Life in France” by Alan Riding that while it has been reviewed before, should be noted in the Digest, having appeared in the newspaper of record. Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by John Talbott entitled “Do you tell? (e.g. the chef it stank?)” and one by Margaret Kemp entitled “Daily Bread Buzz” about a “super” sandwich made by Alain Ducasse at the Cafe “be” at Printemps as well as an update on db called “Dominique Bouchet Buzz Extra.” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Patience. I'm awaiting one missing link, so to speak, and it should go up later today. John

Having worked there, which I have not, I think you should go. It's not what it was then at all, but the two times I've been (I did not answer your request originally because the last time was in January and you said the last couple of months), it was fine - over-priced by my penurious scale, but not over-touristy. As to dress, the usual French mix - women elegant, men getting away with black tees (not like the Automobile Club that is apparently the last bastion of the tie and jacket according to Saturday-Sunday's Figaro). But go a day M. S. will be there to swap tales; ruling weekends out. Have fun. It's only a meal. John

I thought it was because of "la Loi Evain", non? ← It is, indeed, because of the loi Évin. ← FYI - Last night on the 8 PM Fr2 news, I fleetingly saw a banner about a new law (I believe it was #2988 by M. Courtial) that had its (not sure which number) reading in the AN that expands and is more specific than the Evin law, is justified as a public health/anti-secondhand smoke measure and targets places like schools but also mentions restaurants and cafes.

Not to get too defensive about it, but to show I that I still remember my geography, Alex was quoting from a PM I, not John Whiting, sent her, in which she told me about the "top 10 chefs around the world" article project and I was giving her (again in a PM) some suggestions from the hexagon, including Paris. Thierry Marx, has by the way, been featured in Omnivore & "Le Fooding" events in Paris and Le Havre besides minding the store in Pauillac (I'm using the phrase figuratively; I know he doesn't have a store). In any case, I thought Alex would do well in her research to check out the folks currently held in high regard by Omnivore & "Le Fooding" and gave some examples off the top of my head. But let's get back to her question.

What’s in the markets in June The following are in full season in June (the underlined ones are the major items): lobster, crabs, spider crabs, sardines, pigeon, duck, rabbit, chicken, rabbit, veal, cottage cheese, goat cheese, Camembert. Pont l’Eveque, Livarot, Chaource, cabri ariegeois, artichokes, beans, peas, herbs, tomatoes, zuccini, girolles, strawberries, cherries, figs, apricots from Sernhac (only 24 June) and almonds. Once again, I’m relying principally on the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and the June-July Regal.

Interesting point Felice. I was in Toronto last week and there is a campaign currently on the radio featuring a woman (an ex-waitress now deceased) saying she had never smoked but developed lung cancer from second-hand smoke; her employer speaks movingly as well. I was quite impressed with its sophistication and yet blunt power.I don't think it's off-topic to point interested persons to the Heather Crowe update and campaign link since the issue is certainly food-related. Edited by John Talbott to add links.

Yes, several in Paris that cut a fine cote de boeuf, the one my favorite home chef goes to is at St Philippe du Roule on the West side of the square (its address should be Ave. F. D. R.)

Alex - That's exactly what I not John Whiting said.

You know, I've that happen a lot. What's much worse, however, is people, say on trains (in the bad old days) or planes (in the really bad old, old days) who would sit in no-smoking (I assume because they hated smoke around them), go off, smoke and return to no-smoking reeking).

John, do you have any feeling for whether either of these kitchens offer a few interesting non-offals at any given time, as in something for my husband? I hate to eat alone! ← Absolutely. The day I was at Ribouldingue there were at least two fish courses, salads and regular meat courses, but if you read Francois Simon's Hache Menu this week it sounds like it's all abats and when I ate at Aux Zingots they were actually out of the two big abats' dishes we wanted and I had to settle for regular stuff (well, haricots verts salad and liver). However, I don't really want to plug Aux Zingots - its food was meek and dull compared to the dazzle at Ribouldingue. But have your husband scope the menu at Ribouldingue before you go and see for himself. I think Felice may even have a copy of it.

You bet; sweet and sour soup that was not Chinese but Korean and fabulous and huge; then we stupidly had one octopus and one calamari dish each; we should one non-tenticular item but the sauce was different anyway, surprisingly. There we (a different we) had different salads (green and arugula) and different pastas (boar and duck); again we probably should have gone with one item that had not been walking on the ground. My pleasure, that's what this is all about, isn't it, eh?

The Search Engine we use doesn't like words containing three or fewer letters, thus Aix or Aux or Les etc are rejected. When I was compiling the Compendium I searched using Provence and Avignon and not Aix but still uncovered four Aix threads. However Cote and Azur do work. Hope this is helpful for the future.

That's quite a broad question. Having just returned from Toronto I can assure you that you won't be seeing many peameal bacon sandwiches, fiddleheads or butter tarts on French menus but you will see lots of raw milk cheese(s) and for a few days longer - Noirmoutier potatoes (the best in the world by me). The hot new trend, if there is one, in Paris is abats = innard restos with two places opened in the past few weeks: the dazzling, inexpensive Ribouldingue + Aux Zingots (for all coordinates check out the Digest or search recent threads.) The latest guidebook out (March) is Pudlo 2006 and for places not in it, consider le Bistral, Carte Blanche, Drouant + l'Escarbille. Zurban 2006 is about to come out and should include these. My old favorites include Les Magnolias, Les Papilles, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Maison du Jardin, Les Anges, Le Repaire de Cartouche, La Cerisaie, and Thierry Burlot altho' the latter is up to his old tricks of being out of the cheapo wines and dishes and bumping up the prices. But I urge you to check out recent threads and the Digest for additional "voices." Have a ball. John

I did a search of the site for Sunday lunch but came up dry. I'm committing a cardinal sin by asking a question with about 24 hours notice and I apologize but my wife Colette is dead set on lunching this Sunday, May 28 in Charleston. Since we do our primary eating in Paris we're not interested in French-type food but more in good local food no matter what the decor or table settings look like. We loved Bob Waggoner's restaurant near Auxerre but it looks like he's only open at the Charleston Grill evenings. I did see that Jestine's was open for lunch and maybe that'll be fine but I trust others who know the scene will perhaps top that. My sincere thanks in advance and if any of you need help in finding a place in Paris for Sunday lunch, either PM me or go here where we're all set to tell you. John

Klary, you were so helpful to us about eating in Amsterdam that I felt badly not being able to help you before. However, if it's not too late, I just put up a Compendium of existing threads that includes Aix. I hope your husband finds a nice place. Best wishes, John

Provence, Aix, Avignon, etc – A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Lunch in Aix Spring Picnic March near Chateauneuf Food Wine Tours Cooking Aix Good but simple Restaurants November Eastermost Wine tasting tour B&B Culinary schools Restaurants Aix Christmastime Northern Southern Aix A week, cooking schools, vacation Non red meat restaurants Provence Avignon Mallemort

May 18th's Le Monde has an article by Jean Claude Ribaut (that just got posted on the web) on garlic from Arleux (between Arras and Cambrai) smoked in hay, sawdust and peat. He says that it was a preparation of frogs with such powerful garlic made by Escoffier for the Prince of Wales that led to the English calling the French "frogs" or "froggies" [sic] over the past 100 years. Etymologists: man your posts {and don't kill me, I'm just the Digester/rapporteur.}

Since this thread seems to have morphed into a Michel del Burgo "sighting" place, be it noted that no less an observer than Francois Simon, in a “Croque Notes” article called “The narcissism of chicken” says that the peripatetic chef (ex-Carcassonne, Taillevent, Gordes, Negresco, Moscow, Jamin) is taking over l'Orangeraie de l'Île Saint-Louis in September, "by golly!" I'm not holding my breath. For those interested in what's happened to the exJamin space that Fresh_a refers to, check the Digest for the reviews of the new food.

Well, I could be mistaken, but from reading the Fiddlehead thread I think Europeans are not familiar at all with them.

Geoff - For whatever reason we ate at two of your suggestions. I thought the Korean Village was the best Korean I've ever had anywhere, including in Seoul while Tutti Matti was OK but not orbital level Tuscan. Thanks to all for helping out here (my other meals were largely at the Royal York and what one expects - although the catered one on the top floor clearly outclassed the other ones farther down.)

I just wanted to report on a fabulous lunch I had of peameal bacon sandwiches, fiddleheads, butter tarts, Niagara and other red wines, fruit and both Quebec and Ontario cheeses at Marlene's. My French friends and I couldn't have been more impressed with "Canadian" cooking. We were blown away by the hospitality, quality and ambiance. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and thanks especially to Marlene.

Thanks. We were told they would not be open. JK sounds fine. ← Just a quick note; Canoe was indeed open Monday Victoria Day but only to 4 drug company groups not for the likes of me.