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John Talbott

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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  1. Sorry to be so tardy in responding but I've not been watching this Forum while in France. As for the Chameleon Cafe, I'm not blown away but my French teacher, a true Lyonnaise, loves it. Nope I just consulted Colette and neither she nor I can recall ordering fish at Saffron.
  2. No idea Fresh, but I saw the same report(s) and am awaiting the first big article in Figaro/Figaroscope after le rentree.
  3. The Week of June 26th, 2006 Monday the Le Fooding website wrote up the restaurant called Le Tracteur in Sanilhac. Monday as well, in the free newspaper Metro, there was a book notice for “Les Meilleurs Restos exotiques de Paris,” Dominique Lesbros, editions Programme, 6 E. Tuesday, A Nous Paris published its year-end summary with an editorial stating that they were trying to present restos, bistros and wine bars affordable by ordinary French readers rather than hotel places affordable only by Japanese and American tourists like the Crillon, Bristol + Meurice although Robuchon, Martin & Senderens do present one with sure value. They indicate the following had an up year: Stella Maris, Vin Chai Moi, la Ferme des Mathurins, Jean, l’Atelier des Comperes & Petit Pamphlet. Finally they give their “Best Of” list: 1st-4th: Mori Venice Bar Ebis Eatme 5th-8th Ribouldinge Le Comptoir L’Atelier des Comperes Le Passage (Alain Senderens) Sea food Bar de la Caviar House & Prunier 9th-11th le J’Go Jean La Table de Claire 12th-14th Habibi Tokyo Eat Le Queniau Le Casier a Vin 15th-17th Prunier Ripaille 18th-20th Vin Chai Moi Le 20eArt La Boulangerie Suburbs La Cave est Restaurant Wednesday’s Figaroscope contained a pull-out supplement with several “Best Of” lists, including: 10 new places Les Ombres the most awaited le Patio du 404 the most in Le Chateaubriand the most bobo l’Amour Hotel the most sexy Chalet des Iles Dausmesnil the greenest San the most Italian Le Black Calvados the most St Tropez-like l’Atelier des Comperes the most camping-like Ribouldingue the most ant-beach Ozu the most aquatic 10 terraces Dalva tranquil le Duc de Richelieu bouchon-like 20e Art Village-y Café Bibliotheque panoramic Alice Cafe hedonistic Comme Cochons Bistro-like le Brespil charming Symples de l’Os a Moelle intimate Les Cailloux Italian les Delices d’Aphrodite Greek 10 great ideas – alone or with family Publicisdrugstore a film and meal for 20 E la Creperie du Comptoir Camdeborde’s new operation Fontaine Fiacre 12.50 E for a daily special and glass of wine Martine Lambert for ice cream Cave de l’Os a Moelle a bike and picnic for 32 E Cueillette de Gally pick your own food Musee de la Vie Romantique tea in the garden Laurier the new place to plotz in the Galeries Lafayette run by Mavrommatis Hippodrome d’Auteuil a green buffet l’Atelier des Chefs a “new generation” cuisine cooking school 5 cooling dishes Fontaine Gaillon for fresh crab 6 New York for tomato salad with langoustines Baratin for a ceveche of rabbit Absinthe for a blanc-manger with a curry marmalade of peaches Citrus Etoile for a stuffed rouget 10 juice bars Litchi, Wanna Juice, Ferme Opera, Bioboa, Boost, Soup & Juice, Cojean, Lood, Bob’s Juice bar + Pousse-Pousse 10 Astonishing summer wines for you to look up on the website 10 books to savor “Les Tartes d’Eric Kayser,” “Quand les brasseries se racontent,” “Bistrots de Chefs a Paris,” “Venez Diner, c’est Pret,” “Cuisine des Bistrots Parisiens,” “Les Pique-niques Plaisir,” “Le Vrai Gout du Liban,” “Les Delices de Chez Catherine,” “Mes Saveurs d’Asie” and “La Fleur d’Oranger.” It should also be mentioned that within the supplement, Francois Simon inserted his “Hache Menu” noting his experience (2 gelati for 10 Euros) at Deliziefolie in the 1st, where his answer to whether one should go is “Hum.” Wednesday, Pariscope continued to provide an expanded food section, featuring the existing restos: Le Rouge est Mis, Au Bonheur de Chine + La Terasse Fleurie and two wine-focused places - Le Bistrot du Sommelier + Pain, Vin, Fromage and one new place reviewed above - l’Atelier des Comperes. Thursday’s Figaro’s Literary Section had a page devoted to books on food pegged to the publication of the new edition of the “Dictionnaire universel de cuisine pratique” by Joseph Favre, preface by Jean Pierre Coffe, Omnibus, 32.50 Euros; an essay by Yves Camdeborde of Le Comptoir about the writers he admires; and reviews of three books - l’Art de la Braise en Plein Air Rocher, 18 E, Mots de Cuisine Buchet-Chastel, 2 vol 25 E, Aventures d’un gourmand vagabond by Jim Harrison, Bourgois and Salami Actes Sud {no prices given on the last two}. Thursday, Gilles Pudlowski presented his traditional mixture in l’Express of carrots from Creances and how to prepare them, restaurants outside Paris he likes – La Vigatane in Canet-Village and Le Magasin aux vivres in Metz as well as places in Paris to follow: Chez Géraud in the 16th and Dalva in the 2nd, places in good shape – le Meurice + Il Carpaccio and one in trouble – MusicHall in the 8th. Thursday, J-L Petitrenaud wrote up two established places: Michel Rostang in the 17th and l’Abousier in Saint Raphael. Friday, Jean Louis Galesne discussed Paris restos open in July and August, noting: Laurent, La Méditerranée, Le Chamarré, Le Vaudeville, Wajda, + Le Café de l'Alma.. The weekend Figaro had another article on restos outside Paris, this though, those new ones just outside. They included: La Villa 9 Trois in Montreuil, Au Pere Lapin in Suresnes, Le Bar de la Plage in Versailles, l’Escarbille in Meudon, les Etangs de Corot in Avray, Issy Guinguette in Issy les Moulineaux, Le restaurant l’Ile on the Island of St Germain and Le Chalet des Iles Daumesnil in the bois de Vincennes. Next to it was Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in which he bemoaned the mark-up of wines (7, 10 and 15 times) but indicated that the Café Moderne in the 2nd held very reasonably priced tastings Monday nights, the prices holding for the entire week. Sunday in JDD, Astrid de T’Serclaes presented another list of places with terraces that included: Le Café Barge, Le K’fe Court, Le Café de l’Homme, Le MK2 Café, Le Transversal, l’Hotel Amour + Mori Venice Bar. She also mentioned the yearly giant 14th of July picnic of citizens at the Buttes Chaumont, for which further info is available here. In addition, Patrick Bertron of Le Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu picked his favorite affordable restos: La Petite Serene de Copenhague + La Bonne Heure. Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published a review of Beauvilliers and John Talbott wrote a piece entitled “Pacing is Everything.” Where Paris’s Alexander Lobrano had practically the whole June issue at his disposal and presented several sections. First, he reviewed the new place Black Calvados, coordinates given before and two new places near Les Halles open late at night – the Franco-Japanese Le Wa, 8, rue Coquiliere in the 1st, 01.40.26.40.01 and the North African Le Comptoir, 37, rue Berger in the 1st, 01.40.26.26.66. Then he mentioned three cheese-oriented restos – La Fromagerie 31, 64 rue de Seine in the 6th, 01.43.26.50.31, Pain, Vin et Fromage, 3, rue Geoffroy l’Angevin in the 4th, 01.42.74.07.52, and Fromages et Affinities, 58, rue des Mathurins in the 8th, 01.40.06.96.18. Also, he provided a huge list with mini-reviews of places with terraces that included: l’Auberge du Bonheur, Barlotti, le Bistrot de Breteuil, le Bristol, le Chalet des Iles, Flora Danica, La Grande Cascade, Le Jardin Plein Ciel, Laurent, le Pre Catalan, Le Quai + Le Restaurant du Palais Royal. In addition he gave his 50 favorites: Always great Au Petit Marguery, Au Bon St Pourcain + Stella Maris Current hits le Cinq Mars, La Mediterranee, La Ferrandaise, Dominique Bouchet + Le Vieux Chene Asian Le Coin des Gourmets, Baan Boran + Thiou/Petit Thiou Business l’Angle du Faubourg, Chiberta + Senso Cheap + Cheerful Lescure, Chez Germaine + Chez Casimir Italian Barlotti, Paolo Petrini, Il Cortile + Emporio Armani Caffe Light lunch Le Café Artcurial + Musee Jacquemart Andre Sunday open le Reminet, La Truffiere, La Table du Lancaster, Mon Vieil Ami, La Maison, Le Comptoir, Market, La Chaumiere, Butte Chaillot + La Gare Trendy Café Marly, Hotel Costes, Alcazar, Kong, Georges, Music Hall, Murano + Stresa Late night Au Pied de Cochon, l’Alsace, La Tour Monthery + Auberge Dab Wine bars Le Rubis, Bistro Melac, Les Enfants Rouges, Le Sancerre + Au Sauvignon Finally, in the food section, he again mentions the “casual elegance and good food” at La Mediterranee. Originally (June 4th,) I did not make mention of Mark Bittman’s article “Dining by Satellite” in the Sunday New York Times Magazine but since folks have pointed out that it mentions several French chefs (Ducasse, Robuchon, Vongerichten) as being fly-by participants in restos outside the hexagon, I’ll refer you here. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
  4. We usually begin to think about where to spend the night about 3-4 PM and have never slept in the car. Granted we have occasionally wound up in a Kyriad or Ibis but that's usually by choice d/t location etc. Also we carry the Chambres d'hotes book published by the Gites de France folks along with the Red Michelin, Gault-Millau etc.Also, I didn't mention it in my first post but I hate driving back to Paris esp in rush hour, so we've taken to taking the TGV to a central point where we'll be, then renting a car.
  5. Ah, this is like asking if you should turn the toilet paper fold facing out or in; to answer either question, one needs to take a family and personal history. As for me, I'd tell you to keep moving from town to town in a region; ask Colette and she'll say stay in one place for a week and use it as a base. So as a veteran of 45 years of marriage I can only counsel compromise. As for your other queries I'm sure folks will plunge in. All I can say is you are coming at a great time of year and no matter where you go or what you do you'll have a great honeymoon. Best Wishes!
  6. Yes, perhaps. As you've apparently picked up in the Digest, everybody loves it. But.....we were on a slightly different mission this visit. Again, I plead guilty; I had yours and other's threads all printed out and in hand but since we were skirting Avignon, we ate in Villeneuve.By the way, no one should feel we missed out on eating where we did; I just reported on the outstanding place, that is, l'Olivier. Also, as for reservations, we needed none; no place was fully booked; I always do reserve but for reasons of seating preference and respect not to ensure a table.
  7. Provence 2006: Uzes/Serviers-Labaume, Aix, Orange, Avignon, Chateauneuf, Arles, St Quentin We recently spent a few delicious days and nights in Provence and while most meals were good or OK or disappointing, one was terrific. l’Olivier is in Serviers-Labaume, a few miles from Uzes, and offers a 22 Euro menu at lunch and a 45 menu at noon and dinner and reasonable Uzege wines. We started with a pre-amuse bouche (a new one to me) and amuse bouches of tiny croustillants of foie gras, salmon and tuna; then Colette had a tomato soup with brochettes and I tagliatelles with girolles; then rougets with a tomato coulis and lapereau and stuffed ham, accompanied by wild asparagus, stuffed zuccini, peas and gaufre potatoes; then great regional goat cheese, a bavarois with cherry, apricots in jelly and a white peach with chantilly with almonds; ending with a marc de Provence, coffee and just fine nummies. Our bill = 110 Euros (that’s with the marc and 1 ½ bottles of wine.) The other less notable meals were at Le Mas des Aigras near Orange, La Mere Germaine in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Restaurant Le Saint Andre in Villeneuve les Avignon, Le Clos de Pradines in St Quentin la Poterie and La Dolce Vita in Arles.
  8. Well, I think we've pretty much exhausted the ethnic possibilities during the Coupe elsewhere. Tonite, we're reverting to form and since it's cooled off so much (by Lance's Texas standards anyway) we're having tampenade from Lyon (courtesy of bleudauvergne) with Kayser bread, cassoulet, mache salad, tomatoes vinaigrette, Quatrehomme's camembert & Noura desserts; all with a bag-in-box Bergerac. Sounds pretty traditional to me.And I've reluctantly put away my Ronaldo shirt for four years and will go for the Bleus.
  9. What’s in the markets in July The following are in full season in July (the underlined ones are the major items): sardines, tuna, lobster, crabs, langoustes, langoustines, ceteaux, anchovies, lamb, l’Ossau-Iraty, camembert, Pont l’Eveque, Livarot, goat cheese, cornichons, apricots, beans, tomatoes, zuccini, peppers, girolles, fraises des bois, cepes, strawberries, raspberries, other red fruits, melons and peaches. Once again, I’m relying principally on the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and the June-July Regal.
  10. The Week of June 19th, 2006 Monday, the Le Fooding website had an article by Elvira Masson of the June 25th Le Fooding last event of the year in the Marais {already mentioned in the French Forum.} In Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” in Wednesday’s Figaroscope, he gave the photo, lead and two hearts to Au Pere Lapin, 10, rue de Calvaire in Suresnes (92), 01.45.06.72.89, open everyday with 20 and 25 € lunch menus and two hearts to La Plancha, 5, ave de St-Germain in Maisons-Lafitte (78), 01.39.12.03.75 (RER: Maisons-Lafitte) closed Sunday and Tuesday dinner and Wednesdays running one about 50 € apiece. Then he awarded one heart to three places: an offshoot of PDG called PDG Rive Gauche, 5 rue du Dragon in the 6th, 01.45.48.94.40, open everyday and serving hamburger, cheesecake and brunch for 20-30 €; a crepes place Page 35, 4, rue du Parc Royal in the 3rd 01.44.54.35.35, open everyday for about 10-15 €; and a wine bar - A la vierge de la Reunion, 58, rue de la Reunion in the 20th, 01.43.67.51.15, closed all day Mondays and Tuesdays as well as Sunday at dinner for about 20 €. The “Dossier” covered places in which to get a cocktail, etc, in several categories: Unusual Urgence Bar, Ice Kub Bar, La Pharmacie, Footsie, Dans le Noir, 3 Pieces Cuisine, Mercerie-Quincaillerie, Le Point Ephemere, Le Coin de Verre, Le Doudingue + Pena Festayre Trendy General Beurat, Pause Café, La Gazzetta + Viaduc Cafe Lounge Buddha Bar, Pershing Hall, Bar du Murano, Mandalaray, Le Barramundi + l’Asian Exotic La Perla, Favela Chic, Andy Walhoo, Impala Lounge, Barrio Latino + Casa del Campo On his part, for his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon visited Alcazar in the 6th, where despite the tables full of loud Brits and price (172.50 E for 2), he liked the langoustines and fish. Wednesday, Pariscope’s seemingly enhanced section on restaurants {in the wake of Zurban’s demise,} featured the following: Le Café des Roses, Chez les Anges + Chez Andre as well as bargain “menus” at four top flight places – 78 € at Le Grand Vefour, 75 € at Le Pre Catalan, 80 € at Le Bristol, and 65 € at Le Carre des Feuillants. In addition three books of note were mini-reviewed: “Cuisine des bistrots Parisiens” 15 €, Editions Libris; Herme, Lenotre, Veyrat and Blanc’s “Les douceurs de l’enfance,” and Blanc and Veyrat’s “La Cuisine de nos meres” - both {apparently} published by Hachette at 9,90 €. Thursday as well, Gilles Pudlowski offered his usual potpourri of places and things, a book notice of the new tome by Nobu Matsuhisa, reviews of the restaurants: La Côte Saint-Jean in Dijon, Guy & Family in Gevrey-Chambertin, Tarridec in Saint Tropez and the creperie Ti Saozon in Roscoff, says we should follow Pavillon Baltard + Hotels de Sers in Paris, and declares Conti + Izaaki in Paris in good shape. He also gives as a source of Morteau & Jesu sausages - J.-C. Bouheret – in Morteau and provides a recipe of lentils with Morteau sausage. Thursday-Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde covered the new places in the new museum on the Quai Branly that features African, Asian, etc., art: le Café Branly + Les Ombres, 27, quai Branly in the 7th, 01.47.53.68.00, seasonal menu = 32 €, ala carte about 45 €. The latter gets its name from its location in the shadows of the Tour Eiffel and is chef’d by Arno Busquet, 30 years old, ex-second at Laurent, trained by Robuchon. The food is described as lively and filled with spices and techniques from the world over. He has a second article that is entitled “The new restauration in the museums” that does not add much to what most of us already know about Paris museum restaurants. Friday in Les Echos’ Jean Louis Galesne wrote an article listing places open in August; as follows: Laurent, La Méditerranée, Le Chamarré, Le Vaudeville, Wajda, + Le Café de l'Alma.. {I’d second the suggestions for La Méditerranée + Wajda.} Sunday, Astrid de T’Serclaes in JDD provided yet another list of places to go with terraces that included: Le River Café, Le Jardin de Bagatelle, L’Ile, Le Chalet des Iles, Le Chalet des Iles Daumesnil, Le Roland Garros + Le Pavillion Elysees. In addition, Christian Willer of La Palme d’Or in Cannes gave as his favorite affordable Parisian restos: La Marmite Bazar + Le Restaurant du Marche. There was also a book review: “Le Vrai Guide des Bistrots a vin de Paris,” Jean Lapoujade and Robert Savoye, editions de l’IF, 14.50 €. And finally, Sunday, Jane Paech had an article in Bonjour Paris on teashops. Edited by John Talbott to correct errors. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
  11. In the June Where Paris, Alexander Lobrano mentioned three cheese-oriented restos – La Fromagerie 31, 64 rue de Seine in the 6th, 01.43.26.50.31, Pain, Vin et Fromage, 3, rue Geoffroy l’Angevin in the 4th, 01.42.74.07.52, and Fromages et Affinities, 58, rue des Mathurins in the 8th, 01.40.06.96.18.
  12. Yes, but as Ptipois pointed out he was representing the mainstream restaurateurs in France and I do recall the context; it was his argument for lowering the TVA in restos to that of fast-food places and he used this figure as ammunition. Now I loved the family cradle, the Hotel de France in Auch, I love Adriane Daguin's food in the US as well as brother/son Arnaud's cooking in Auch/Washington/Basque-land; but, one must appreciate Papa's comment in its context. As I pointed out above, with five places opening in Paris a week (excepting summer), it's not like we're starving. My lament would be that yesterday's old-fashioned French bistro is replaced by tomorrow's Italian-Japanese-Lebanese place or worse a lingerie or eye-glass shop, but I suspect the "Fooding"/Omnivore gang would not agree, arguing that French cuisine needs a foreign shot in the arm (of something other than EPO).
  13. The Week of June 12th, 2006 From the weekend Figaro comes an article by Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon on the new restaurants in Brittany that includes: In Finistere: le Bistrot de l’Ecallier, La Cigale Egaree + La Coquille In the Cotes d’Armor: Le Youpala Bistrot, La Vielle Tour + Aux PesKed In the Moriban: La Maree, La Table des Marees _+ Henri & Joseph In the Ille et Viliane: L’Arsouille, Le Coquillage + Creperie a l’Abordage Monday, the Le Fooding website talked of the “Grand Fooding d’Été à Marseille” June 18th. For more info please see here. {EN: Readers/members interested in “Le Fooding” events may want to bookmark the site and check it as well as Felice’s Events Calendar from time to time. Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 blocks to Le Petit Pamphlet coordinates given before, where he liked the prices for a ceviche of sardines, veal with veggies and rice pudding as well as wine. Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” in Wednesday’s Figaroscope awarded two hearts to three places: (1) The ephemeral Transversal at the Grand Palais, (2) The Japanese place Ozu in the 16th, and (3) In the space previously occupied by the {great} bouillabaisse resto, the Quinson, there is now Le Minzingue 5, place Etienne Pernet in the 15th, 01.45.32.48.54, all day Sunday and Mon-Weds for dinner, running one 25-35 € for herrings, tartare and a fruit gratin. One heart each also went to a pizza place, Maison d’Italie in the 20th and a neo-café l’Eglantine, 21, rue Fabre d’Eglantine in the 12th, 01.44.67.73.40, open everyday, serving oeuf mayo and a loin of lamb. In this week’s “Dossier” the crew covered desserts: All chocolate 6 New York All Apples Pomze As much as you want Cave de l’Os a Moelle Double portion l’Assiette Half portion Bar chinois du Pinxo Temples of sugar Laduree, Dalloyau, Café d’Angel + Aux Saveurs du Marche Signed creations Sebastien Gaudard au Delicabar, Pierre Herme au Kong, + Café Lenotre In addition they give several other places for single dishes, such as Chez Michel for Kouig-Amann, Vin et Maree for Baba de Zanzibar, Market for pannacotta, le Bistrot d’a Cote Villiers for petits pots de crème au chocolat, Coffee parisien for brownies, Elysees du Vernet for citron de Monton confit, Café Constant for rice pudding, Rose Bakery for cheese cake and Bistrot Paul Bert for a Paris-Brest. But Francois Simon, going along with the theme in his ”Hache Menu”, went to the Bristol for three desserts and a bit of coffee that cost him 104 €, to which he gave a red card {it being soccer month in the rest of the world outside the USA.} Finally, Figaroscope mini-reviewed two dessert books: “Nos meilleurs desserts de grand-meres” Flammarion, 12 € and “Tentations sucrees” Reader’s Digest 16 €. A few weeks ago Figaroscope’s “Dossier” covered “street food,” which was not posted promptly. Now however, I have the list that includes: Falafel l’As du fallafel Sausages Epicurya Donner kabob Anonyme Crepes Marche ou crepe + Jour de crepes Deluxe sandwiches Kayser, Cosi + Gourmand Gourmet Asian sandwich Hoa Tang Ice cream Deliziefollie and at the last minute, Yves Camdeborde’s take out place next door. They also recommended a book: “Bien Manger: Sur le Pouce,” Editions de l’If, for 14.50 €. I had previously noted the “huge list” of places with terraces provided by Frank Picard in Le Figaro. On reading the hard copy I see he also rated them 0-20 for charm (10 max), noise (5 max) and food (5 max.) The top five were Restaurant du Palais-Royal, Grande Cascade, Bristol, Pre Catalan + La Cour Jardin Plazza. For food only the top four were Bristol, Pre Catalan, La Cour Jardin Plazza + Georges. Thursday, in L’Express, Jean Luc Petitrenaud gave as his weekly favorites l’Oasis in la Napoule and Euzkadi in Espelette. Thursday as well, Gilles Pudlowski offered his usual mixed bag of places and things - La Villa in Calvi, Le Lunch in Marseille, La Promenade in Touraine and La Croix Jean-Claude in Meribel, a book with recipes and presentations by chefs of many nations called “Cousins cuisine” published by Flammarion, 15 E, l'andouille of Guémené and how to prepare it, two places in Paris to follow: Le Paprika + Chez Cedric, 13, rue Denis-Poisson in the 17th, 01.44.09.03.30 with a lunch menu : 29 E and a la carte : 55 E and finally; two places in good shape: Les Anges + La Maison Blanche. Thursday-Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde had a piece on the arrival of the French chefs in Las Vegas. Friday, in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesnes listed his favorite restos on the Ile de Re: Le Richelieu, L'Atalante, Les Embruns, Le Bistrot de Bernard, Le Chat Botté, L'Ecailler + Bô. The weekend Figaro had another article by Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon on restos in vacation places, this entitled “Week-ends Gourmands,” covering in Etretat – La Villa Sans Souci, in Montreuil-sur-Mer - Auberge de la Grenouillère, in Courlans – Auberge de Chavannes, in Sanzier Le Puy-Notre-Dame – La Pinsonnière, on the Île de Fedrun – La Mare aux oiseaux, in Annecy-le-Vieux – Clos des Sens, in Hasparren – Hegia and in Sivergues – Bergerie du Castellas. Sunday, John Talbott had an article in Bonjour Paris called “Hot Quarters – the 6th and 18th” and Margaret Kemp one on new places and chefs in Paris - Petit Pamphlet + Le 21 where Paul Minchelli has settled or changes in existing places, specifically Christian Constant’s turning over to a lieutenant, the Fables de la Fontaine and her affection for the Café de l’Alma + Beauvilliers. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
  14. Nice article by Jean Louis Galesne two days ago in Les Echos on August openings that listed: Laurent, La Méditerranée, Le Chamarré, Le Vaudeville, Wajda, + Le Café de l'Alma. I’d second the suggestions for La Méditerranéen + Wajda.
  15. Having started this wonderfully productive thread, I have to throw in a mid-Coup piece of advice. Do NOT go out to buy pizza one hour from the start time of the next match, everyone else will have the same idea. For some reason, the French, at least Parisian fans, love pizza with their games as much as Yanks love their potato chips.
  16. Do you see this happening too? ← I've been sitting by and watching and holding back but I've gotta get on this. 1. "France's bistros are shutting so quickly" Well, a bit true and a bit hyped. 2. But....and there's always a but, non?, with five new places opening/changing chefs/ownership/etc and/or reviewed each week in Paris alone in Figaroscope, A Nous Paris, etc. and until 3 weeks ago Zurban, and one hopes soon in Hachette's co-rival Pariscope, one is not exactly facing the end of the bistrot world as we know it. 3. I realize Brit news-sheets live on bad news and esp. on bad French news, but from where I sit and having eaten at two thriving bistrots in two days I'd say that like Mark Twain "The reports of....death are greatly exaggerated."
  17. Unlike Elvis and Jimmie Hoffa, about whom sightings have proven unproven, Nicolas Vagnon, ex-Lucullus in the 17th, is alive and well and living and cooking on the Ile d’Yeu off the Vendee/Brittany coast. Last week, he provided a most excellent dinner for my extended family at his new place – Chez Nicolas, 13 rue du Marche, on the back street off the port at Port-Joinville, 06.74.24.73.10, closed Wednesdays. After passing out water and a circle of bread with a generous portion of Comte and much appreciated (especially by the children) rillettes of tuna (the Ile d’Yeu is the traditional home to the French tuna-fishing fleet) with Swiss chard, he essentially provided two meals; one for the five kids of pasta and/or cod with rice/risotto, fruit juices and a wonderful coconut cake and another for the six adults consisting of a salad of greens and new red onions (from his own garden), squid with peppers and zuccini, amande clams with zuccini and leeks, sardines with butter and a “surprise dessert” of a thick chocolate mousse with flecks of chocolate and a “soup” of cranberries with a confiture sorbet. The bill, 276 Euros for 11 with lots of wine, Nicholas’ warm welcome and a fine send-off. For those tempted to visit this wonderful 5000-person island just to revisit M. Vagnon, there’s much, much more, principally oysters and potatoes from Noirmoutier, a huge choice of fish to BBQ from one of Hennequin’s three stores, haricot vert beans and chevre from the Island itself and quite respectable wines from the Loire and Vendee. And, for those inevitably stuck in Fromentine between the bus from or to Nantes and the ferry to or from the Ile d’Yeu, there are two fine places to eat: one a more-or-less standard creperie – l’Avocette, where we eleven ate for 34.40 Euros; the other, one of our best meals anywhere in June, Le Caboulot, 15 ave de l’Estacade, in La Barre de Monts, 02.28.10.56.3, where the salads, bar, desserts and wine were all way above standard for 175.60 Euros for 11.
  18. Full marks to everyone and my excuses for being out of pocket so long (but for a good reason - I was actually sampling the fish mentioned above at one of the principal fishing islands off the coast.) As a Yank, I have always found the translation of St Pierre as John Dory to be confusing - it doesn't help me identify the fish, because to my knowledge, only Brits and ex-colonials from Aussie-Kiwi-lands say John Dory, most of us other ex-colonists have never heard this descriptor. My handy-dandy "McLane's Fish Buyer's Guide" gives conflicting info on St Pierre fish, placing it (1) among the Cichlids of which Blue Tilapia and Mozambique Tilapia are the closest translations and (2) Dories (Dory pleural) of which John Dory or Zeus Faber is as well. In any case, it says that the former (Cichlids) are not native to North America (but are cultivated in the US) and the latter (John Dories) are "rarely" found in Western Atlantic waters. End of class.
  19. It’s tough for Baltimore to get much airtime on a Forum dominated by DC but that’s not necessarily because its food is less worthy or interesting. I had the wonderful opportunity to perform a blitz binge in Baltimore recently, akin to my periodic gorging in Paris and here are my thoughts. 1. As I said upthread, Qayum Karzai, brother of Hamid, the Prime Minister, who famously said that if he failed in Afghanistan, he’d go work in one of his bro’s places in Baltimore, has the most consistent and inventive food in town, vide Helmand & Tapas Teatro, although the demise of Limoges is regrettable. 2. Someone needs to renovate the Chesapeake Restaurant and finally “fix” that statue in front of Penn Station upstream. As Henry II said about Thomas a Beckett - "will no one rid me of this…. ? 3. Portion size in America is one reason for obesity (yah, I know - genes, TV and lack of exercise are part of it too) and evident even at first class places like Saffron where despite the spectacular food, you’re better off ordering two starters than regular courses. 4. Except maybe for Alain Ducasse and Thomas Keller, chefs cooking in America had best stick to Californian or Ethnic food than try to imitate Paris Bistro fare. 5. Placing the next course down milliseconds after the last one is finished, even when it consists of perfect product, perfectly prepared, leads to spiritual indigestion – vide Abacrombie. 6. Crabs remain Baltimore’s strongest suit and most “typical” dish, vide McCabe’s. 7. But I do miss abats and foie gras.
  20. The Week of June 5th, 2006 Monday the Le Fooding website announced that the next event would be in Montpellier the 11th of June at l’Octopus. Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban wrote his major review around the Italian resto/pizzeria in the 3rd San:. His #1 Casserole was the ephemeral appearance of the Transversal crew at the Grand Palais, during the Force de l'Art exhibit, mentioned by Felice in her Events thread May 15th where until June 25th, one can sample the colored radishes of Joël Thiébault, a true Morteau sausage, pollock ceviche and a jellied blanquette or ultra-AOC charcuteries for lunch at only 30-35€. On deck: Yves Camdeborde the 8th, Flora Mikula the 10th, William Ledeuil the 14th and Thierry Marx the 19th. He also wrote up the trendy x3 Hotel Amour, coordinates given before, with a cool garden and nice terrace that serves such fare (which upon reflection was pretty good) as roast chicken, cheeseburger with correctly-made fries, green salads and cod with lemon zest for 18-25 € a la carte and a disappointing wine bar in the 20th - A la Vierge de la Reunion, 58, rue de la Réunion, 01.43.67.51.15, closed Sunday, Monday, Tuesday night and all day Wednesday for about 18 €; the wine carries a corkage fee of 7 € and the food was poor except for the bread and cold-cuts. In a stunning but ironic announcement {tipped to me by Felice}, Le Figaro said that owner Hachette has announced that Zurban would cease publishing, as of this issue. The reason: the publication went to only 46,500 folk, not the 70,000 that was called for in their business plan. In Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” in Wednesday’s Figaroscope, he gave the photo, lead and only two hearts to the Pamphlet’s sympathetic annex - Le Petit Pamphlet, 15, rue St Gilles in the 4th, 01.42.71.22.21, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday lunch, costing 30-40 € for ceviche of sardines, veal with carrots, risotto with ink and rice pudding but three hearts and a secondary billing {I think there’s a message there} to Paul Minchelli’s return to the exLa Cafetiere space {which only opened six months or so ago} where he now runs Le 21, 21, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.46.33.76.90, closed weekends, where he serves a fish-dominated menu of dishes such as sardines fagora, herring cousus, marinated lisettes and pasta boutargue for 50-60 €. Another two-hearter was Le Jardinier, 5 rue Richer in the 9th, 01.48.24.79.79, closed Sundays which has been reprised (it got two hearts when it opened in October 2004) with menus at 17 and 21, a la carte 30 € at dinner, for fare such as marinated salmon, brandade and apple tart – all made like a family Sunday dinner. One heart each went to Thai Spices and the Japanese Zendo. And Francois Simon, going along with the theme in his ”Hache Menu”, went to the sandwich place la Boulangerie de Papa in the 5th where he spent 3.50 € on a jambon-gruyere with no ummph and no cheese; don’t go he says. Simon also wrote about the article in the US Saveur proclaiming La Chassagnette in Le Sambuc the best restaurant in the world instead of the Atelier de Jean Luc Rabenel in Arles. In addition, in Figaro Madame there was an article on Japanese pastry by Maya Blanc that featured: Kitchoan, 17, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.40.06.91.28, Toraya, 10, rue Saint-Florentin in the 1st, 01.42.60.13.00 and Chajin, 24, rue Pasquier in the 8th, 01.53.30.05.24. There was also an article by Alexandra Michot on sexy looking pastry. Thursday-Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde has three pieces: a tribute to Claude Terrail, an article on artificial and natural aromas and additives to food and another on the butter spray controversy in France. Last Thursday, in L’Express Pierre Herme revealed his favorite bistro – Le Baratin and cheese shop to get chevre – Cantin. This week, J-L Petitrenaud wrote up two established places: La Grille in the 10th and La Coquille in Concarneau. Thursday as well, Gilles Pudlowski offered his usual potpourri of places and things, a book notice of the new tome by Nobu Matsuhisa, reviews of the restaurants: La Côte Saint-Jean in Dijon, Guy & Family in Gevrey-Chambertin, Tarridec in Saint Tropez and the creperie Ti Saozon in Roscoff, says we should follow Pavillon Baltard + Hotels de Sers in Paris, and declares Conti + Izaaki in Paris in good shape. He also gives as a source of Morteau & Jesu sausages - J.-C. Bouheret – in Morteau and provides a recipe of lentils with Morteau sausage. Every once in a while it’s worth looking at RestoaParis website for their picks; the most recent list includes: Le Traversière, Le Jardinier, Au Métro, Kiwi Corner, Tine, Ripaille, L'Amaryllis, Alice Pizza, Le Queniau + A la Biche au Bois. Sunday’s New York Times’s Travel section had an article by Barbara Ireland on “Cezanne’s Provence” that mentioned three places in Aix-en-Provence: Les Deux Garçons, Relais Sainte-Victoire + Le Pain Quotidien. Sunday as well, John Talbott had an article in Bonjour Paris called “Turning a menu on its head” and Margaret Kemp one on “Terrific Terraces.” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
  21. For about how much can an apartment be rented? For what time periods? ← A caution; we're a food-obsessed website. But if you must know, please consult our compendium here.
  22. To keep on topic, it was Gouda/Rijsttafel 1 - Burek/Ajvar 0. Robben consumes all.
  23. Sara - the price of all this priceless advice is that you have to write up your experiences. Those of us whose clocks are stuck on nostalgia time (eg our first visit as a teenager) will relish your final decisions. But I agree wholeheartedly - what will happen will happen - today, for instance, my crew (age 2- way up there) crumped in front of a moules and frites place and couldn't have been happier. Hey, it's just food - have fun!
  24. ANG ARG AUS BRA CRC CIV CRO CZE ECU ENG FRA GER GHA IRN ITA JPN KOR KSA MEX NED PAR POL POR SCG ESP SWE SUI TOG TRI TUN UKR USA
  25. Well if we think stereotypically, esp as to nicknames, we come up with: Limes for the Brits Frogs for the French Sauerkraut for the Germans A nasty slur for inexpensive red wine for the Italians
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