John Talbott

The Week of August 28th, 2006 Monday’s Figaro, still in a holiday mode, had an article by Alexandra Michot on Concarneau that listed several restaurants: La Coquille, l’Escale + Chez Leo. Monday, A Nous Paris reappeared, but instead of reviewing new restos, suggested several known places where one can grab a quick bite to eat that included: L de Liza, Christina’s Tapas, Be au Printemps de la Maison + Croccante and featured two books: Bien manger sur le pouce by Julien Ponceblanc & Jerome Sorrel, editions de l’If and Les Petits Roules by Thomas Clouet, ed. Hachette Pratique. Wednesday, Jean-Claude Ribault of Le Monde had an article on the 100-year old Maison Marguin in Dombes with an adjacent note about their famous ecrevisses with Bresse chicken recipe. Thursday, Jean-Luc Petitrenaud in l’Express returned with his picks of the week: Thoumieux in Paris and Le Riou in Mandelieu-la-Napoule. Thursday as well, Gilles Pudlowski was also back in l’Express with his mélange of restos, producers and recipes: he says that in Paris the Table of Joel Robuchon is in good shape; that he wants to go back to the Chinese Elysees Hong Kong in the 16th and the Italian Taverna degli amici in the 7th; that Velly in the 9th has a good price-quality ratio; and outside Paris recommends the Bistro de Jean-Pierre in Besancon, La Signora in Calvi, and La Table de l'Horloge in Saint-Quentin-de-la-Poterie; rhapsodizes about the Swiss L'Ermitage/Ravet in Vufflens-le-Château between Lausanne and Rolle and finally he recommends a sort of wild black pig raised in the Pyrenees by Jean Denaux, in Saligny for which he gives a recipe. The weekend Figaro featured the return of Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” with a mix of subjects : the trend of chefs to put their energy mostly into the amuse bouches which results in the replacement of “bon appetit” by “bonne degustation” and an hour long wait til the diner gets to the real food (recently he had a leap over a mound of them to get at his miserably small portion of langoustines); the difficulty ensuring hotel reservations and the new style of serving food so finely mashed, chopped, julienned, etc. it barely resembles its origins. In the weekend FT Rowley Leigh, chef at London’s Kensington Place wrote a piece on the market in St Cyprien. September’s Gourmet had an article by Alexander Lobrano on “Burgundy” in which he “details” the following Restaurant Jean-Luc Barabet in Auxerre, Laroche in Chablis, l’Auberge de la Charme in Prenois, Restaurant Le Charlemagne in Pernand-Verglesses, Sushi Kai + Les Mille et Une Vignes in Beaune and La Table d’Olivier Leflaive + Le Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet. September’s Conde Nast Traveler featured an article on Provence by Patricia Storace that mentioned several places: Le Phebus in Joucas, Clementine in Menerbes, Les Deux Garcons in Aix, Le Prieure in Avignon, Pizzeria de la Tour in Barbentane, Pantagruel in Cavaillon, La Mere Germaine in Chateauneuf, l’Auberge de la Bartavelle in Goult, Le Comptoir d’Edouard in Lourmarin, l’Auberge de Noves in Noves and l’Auberge Saint Roch in Suzette. August’s Where had several notes by Alexander Lobrano about new places – calling: the food at Les Ombres a happy surprise but with “special-occasion” prices; Yves Camdeborde’s sandwicherie/creperie next door to Le Comptoir “perfect for a takeout meal;” and Le Petit Pamphlet, a “lower-priced (than the mother ship the Le Pamphlet )….charmer.” He also mentions four places for fusion food – Ploum, Aida, Kaiseki + Opera Ramen and later mentions another new fusion place – Mood. {This being a transition week, I’ll digest the September issue as well} Here he calls the Bistrot Volnay + Le Baratin bountiful bistros, with the former having a “brief but satisfying menu;” the latter “outstanding.” He also touts the Thai place Num and the vegetable-influenced Jardinier which has an “excellent market menu.” Later in the restaurant listings he entitles a picture of Le Mesuret – “Best Bistro.” August-September’s GaultMillau mentioned chef moves or take-overs – Guy Martin to Sensing, Paul Minchelli to Le 21 and Michel del Burgo to l’Orangerie. They also called the Great Discovery of the Year Le Mirazur in Menton. There are no reviews as we knew them in the old days with ratings and tasting; instead they mentioned Chateaubriand as perfectly BoBo and l’Absinthe + La Braisiere as holding up. They do a sort of review of Les Ombres, calling it “chic and cher” (entrees 18-28, mains 26-42, desserts 12) and noting that the poor cooking at high prices won’t work and if the chef wants to feed 130 persons he better cook brasserie food at brasserie prices. Sunday’s JDD had Astrid de T’Serclaes in Version Femina reviewing two new places: Chateaubriand coordinates given before, where she found the three-day beard waiters tres sympa and the food quite different at noon and at night as well as DS Café, a carpaccio, bagel and pastrami place in the 17th. In the main paper Richard Coutanceau of the famed resto in La Rochelle named as his favorite places in Paris Spoon + Le Dauphin. Finally in Bonjour Paris Saturday-Sunday, Margaret Kemp has an article on how much chefs are worth and a tribute to the Jardin d’Hiver at the Meurice and John Talbott one on “Eating with Children.” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Parc André-Citroën in the 15e is one of the few intra-muros where they'll let you sit on the grass. In some small neighborhood parks there is often a "pedestrian" grass spot where people can sit or lie down (for instance at the Carreau du Temple, near République). No sitting on the grass at Jardin des Plantes or Luxembourg Gardens (I haven't looked everywhere so someone could prove me wrong). Large beautiful grass lawn on the esplanade des Invalides, between the hospital/church and the Seine. I think you can sit on the grass in some parts of Parc Montsouris and Buttes-Chaumont. Otherwise it's a good idea to get out of Paris and try the beautiful parks of Saint-Cloud or Sceaux, the perfect picnic spots. Also: parc de La Villette, parc de La Courneuve. ← I would add to Pti's comprehensive answer that the two Bois (Boulogne & Vincennes), both reachable by Metro, are also conducive to sitting down. Also, while one cannot sit on the grass at the Luxembourg or Monceau, etc., there are plenty of benches and/or chairs and I frequently see people eating sandwiches there.

What’s in the markets in September The following are reported by the Almanach du Gastronomie + Regal* to appear in the markets in September: Arriving: oysters, bouquet prawns, sole, rouget, game, soup vegetables, chestnuts, mushrooms, Picodon cheese, apples and nuts. Leaving: langoustines, ceteaux, tomatoes, strawberries, blackberries, bilberries, melons and peaches. In full season: sardines, anchovies, mackerel, coalfish, tuna, calamari, spider, swimming and big crabs, bar, lobster, beans, beets, fennel, broccoli, frisee, garlic, eggplant, cepes, zucchini, herbs, sorrel, peppers, potatoes, brie de Meaux, camembert, Chaource, goats, Epoisses, gaperon, munster, Neufchatel, Pont l’Eveque, Reblochon, pears, Mirabelle, quetsche and other plums, grapes, almonds, brugnon and other nectarines, red fruit, and figs. *References: Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF) and the September-October Regal.

There was a cute letter to the editor in today's Figaro that said that Fernand Point, famed chef at Pyramide, during the '50's when he was "best worker in France," (I know it doesn't translate well) when seeing a customer light up between the pear and cheese would rush over with the check. Today, the author Yves Beaulieu says, it's the government who will rush over with the check to the restaurateur who lets a client smoke. Times change, he concludes.

Trust me, Pti, you missed nothing at L'Appart. While it was cosy and booklined (as was a wonderful NYC West Side place appropriately called The Library), the food, at least the Sunday Colette and I went, was all-bad, all-Amurican, and all-brunch - and I'd specifically asked if they had a regular menu. Since Dave mentioned the New Orleans place, I can say that in the 1970's it was fairly common in the US to take a brownstone and convert it to a "homey" resto: vide Mr and Mrs Fosters in NYC and an old "house of ill repute" in Aspen whose name escapes me where one dined on red velvet in a private room with a red velvet curtain separating you from the other customers and somewhat saucily-dressed waitresses.

Paris Food 14th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. La Regalade 14th Dinner in the 14th Montparnasse This is it for threads primarily devoted to the 14th; restos like the La Cagouille, Grande Ourse, Severo, Bis de Severo, Montparnasse 25, Chopotte, Fils de la Ferme, Giufeli, l’Os a la Bouche, + Pavillion Montsouris, etc., can only be found by searching.

Paris Food 10th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. 10th Near the Gare du Nord Students, near the Gare du Nord Unfortunately, this is it for threads primarily devoted to the 10th, restos like the Hotel du Nord & Julien, etc., and the wine store, the Verre Volé can only be found by searching.

Paris Food 2nd Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Reasonably priced in the 2nd Drouant Drouant and Westerman Unfortunately, this is it for threads primarily devoted to the 2nd, restos like Fontaine Gaillon, l’Ecaille de Fontaine, Aux Lyonnais, Chez Georges, Angl’Opera, Mori Venice Bar, Un jour a Peyrassol, Grand Colbert, etc., and famous wine store Legrand can only be found by searching.

One of my favorite things to do on Sunday is to spend the morning at the market and then head to a café to read the paper. The marché biologique on ave Raspail might be a nice choice for a Sunday morning, with a café afterwards in Saint Germain. If it’s the first Sunday of the month you might want to go to a museum, as most ,if not all of them, are free. ← I second the market idea, if not Raspail, one in the country, then a meal at a country place with lots of three-generation families, rounded out with a visit to a Chateau, I think the great ones are Vaux le Vicomte, Rambouillet and Chantilly - it helps to have a car or friend with one. A second option is walking around, in and resting at an in-town park - Luxembourg, Monceau or Montsouris. Third is to wing it; pick up a Journal de Dimanche which has a plan for how to spend time each weekend in Paris and outside (in different sections); that way we've found an olive oil festival at the Pte de Champarret, wine exhibition at the Pte de Versailles and craft fair in the Bois de Boulogne. Correct; its advantage is that map I referred to, which except for the occasionally published Bottin Bistrot one, is a rare resource for locating a place when you're walking around and want to plotz nearby.

I realized mid-project: (1) that I hadn't fully explained that these compendia were intended to help persons searching for FAQ's - eg where do I find a place in the 14th? (2) that they are in no way complete - they represent only those threads easily identified as focusing on one arrondissement or other and not on discussions that might include many restos in multiple areas, (3) that they are quaisi-"Wikipedic," feel free to add links to threads and/or other info about food in each one and (4) that they've cluttered up the site - apologies. I hope they'll be helpful. John

Paris Food 12th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Near the Gare de Lyon Gare de Lyon

This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Les Cocottes de Christian Constant Atelier de JR Rue de Monttessuy Jules Verne Au Bon Acceuil Arpege Ferme St Simon Note: There may be other threads containing information that involves multiple arrondissements and searching may be necessary to find info on restos such as Violin d'Ingres, l'Ami Jean, Bamboche, Cafe Constant, Fables de la Fontaine, Fontaine de Mars, Gaya, Chez Germaine, Maison de l'Amerique Latine, Les Ormes, Petrossian, Tante Marguerite, Cinq Mars, Les Anges.

Paris Food 5th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Les Papilles 1st vs 5th Mouffetard Near Notre Dame l’Ecurie Several places

Paris Food 6th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Le Comptoir du Relais Chez Gramond, regretable Lipp Light lunch Alcazar, Bookinistes, 6th 6th and 7th

Paris Food 4th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Dining in the Marais Jewish Paris Marais Bastille l’Ambrosie Benoit Fellafel le Marais & Bastille 4th, 5th & 6th l’Ambrosie 4th Bistros Marais hotel l’Ambrosie

Paris Food 11th Arrondissement A compendium of existing threads This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Bistro Paul Bert 11th Girls Dinner Group Near Parmentier Metro Temps au Temps Marais Bastille Sot l’y laisse Le Chistera Le Villaret Au C’Amelot

1st Arrondissement 2nd Arrondissement 3rd Arrondissement 4th Arrondissement 5th Arrondissement 6th Arrondissement 7th Arrondissement 8th Arrondissement 9th Arrondissement 10th Arrondissement 11th Arrondissement 12th Arrondissement 13th Arrondissement 14th Arrondissement 15th Arrondissement 16th Arrondissement 17th Arrondissement 18th Arrondissement 19th Arrondissement 20th Arrondissement This will be completed and edited and updated periodically by John Talbott. Please feel free to add links or info on individual Arrondissement compendium threads.

This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Affordable bistrots l’Autobus Imperial 1st vs 7th Wine bars in the 1st Market Street Best onion soup Cookware store Bakeware store

The Heart of Summer, 2006 The New York Times has printed several articles mentioning places in Paris and without, some of which I’m tardy in noting. Florence Fabricant wrote up Culture Biere, June 25th ; Richard Woodward suggested Chez Serge in Carpentras and Les Florets in Gigondas; and Seth Sherwood recommended La Mere Germaine in Villefranche sur Mer, l’Arc en Ciel + Le Grill du Chateau in Eze, and Le Cagnard + Josy-Jo in Cagnes. In addition, Ann Morrison, July 2nd wrote a “Going To” about Lyon and mentioned: Bocuse or one of the five Brasseries Bocuse, l’Alexandrin, Nicolas Le Bec, Les Andrets, Les Meuniere or a non-tourist trap bouchon such as the Garet, Petit Bouchon, Chez Georges + Petit Flore. In the July 13th issue was an article on the value of a Michelin star that referenced two scientific contributions: (1) “A Paradigm Change in Taste Industries” that says that in 55 years, costs of Paris meals have climbed 216.8% adjusted for inflation, while “nonluxury food [is] cheaper,” and (2) “Stardust over Paris” that concludes that a star increases prices 20% and rates “overpriced and underpriced” places; the Bistro d’Albert being among the latter, Maxim’s among the former {Digester’s Note: which I find bizarre since it’s now primarily a museum and boutique selling Maxim tchotchkes and maybe some coffee and sandwiches.} July 31, Heather Stimmler-Hall covered juice bars and terraces. Among the juice bars she listed: Wanna Juice, Litchi, La Ferme Opera, Lood, Bob’s Juice Bar + Foody’s; among terraces she noted: Andy Wahloo, Les Sept Lezards + Cristal Room Baccarat. Mondays, Le Fooding continued through August to herald places largely outside Paris: July 31st it was Le Refuge des Tarentes in Carqueiranne; August 7th, the Maison Cointre in Dinge; and August 14th La Pinsonnière in Le Puy-Notre-Dame, inspired by Olivier Schvirtz who created La Robe et le Palais + le Garde Robe in Paris. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribault in Le Monde had an article on the secrets of “fishing” with one’s feet for amandes, bigorneaux, bulots, bernicles or berniques, coques and couteaux. Wednesday-Thursday, August 16-17, he talked of the rosés of summer. On August 23-4, he reported from Barcelona on tapas but listed Paris coordinates too for: Fogon + Cristina’s Tapas. Thursday in Le Point François Guillaume Lorrain published an article on the treasures of the Cotentin including: eating at La Malle aux épices in Auderville (about which Gilles Pudlowski wrote more) and the best oysters being found at Lesdos-Allaire in Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. In addition, I missed Gilles Pudlowski’s special edition about the Vauclause where he recommended: Les Andéols in Saint Saturnin les Apt, Les 5 Sens, La Mirande + Les Campagnie des Comptoirs in Avignon, Le Vieux Bistrot d’Aude in Cabrières-d'Avignon, Restaurant Prevot in Cavaillon, l’Auberge de Cheval Blanc in Cheval Blanc, Le Jardin du Quai in L’Isle sur la Sorgue and La Maison in Paluds de Noves. {Digester’s Note : For sometime I’ve been assuming that Pudlowski’s reviews appeared only in the Gastronomie section but just now realize that he also contributes to the Voyages and Villes sections. Thus if one want to know what’s good in Cannes, Rouen, Bastia, etc before the yearly France Pudlo comes out, check here.} Thursday, in L’Express, Amandine Hirou wrote a nice feature on Hennequin, the fish monger on the Ile de Yeu. There was also an article on the most beautiful markets in Provence by Catherine Robin. In the August 26th Financial Times was an article by Sarah Woodward on Roquefort and another by Andrew Jefford on Loire Reds. Thursday August 10th, Veronique Andre, in Le Figaro had an article on three places on the Ile de Re: Le Richelieu, Le Chat Botte + Le Bistrot de Bernard as well as one on where to get salt, fish and oysters on the island. She also had more places listed elsewhere: L’Arche de Noé on the île de Porquerolles, La Vieille Fontaine in Le Lavandou, L’Anse de Port-Cros on the ile de Port-Cros and La Plage d’Argent on the ile de Porquerolles. And on August 17th, Sophie Grezaud featured products from the Ile de Noirmoutier; on August 24th on products from Belle Ile. Les Restos announced the opening of several new places as well as what chefs are taking over which existing places in September, including : Louis Jacques Vanucci, who has taken over the ex-Gildo space, 153, rue de Grenelle in the 7th for his new Le Soleil 01.45.51.54.12, an offshoot of the resto by the same name opposite the St Ouen flea market and Guy Martin of Grand Vefour, who will open Sensing at 19, rue Brea in the 6th, 01.43.27.08.80. They also announced the opening the beginning of September of the new Moroccan place called Sensi dar Faudel, 1 bis, rue Jean Mermoz in the 8th, 01.42.90.29.10 (Faudel is a French/Morrocan singer). July’s Gourmet mentioned two places in their “Restaurant Roundup:” Sa.Qua.Na (for saveurs, qualite and nature) in Honfleur and Chateaubriand in Paris, coordinates already given. August’s Gourmet mentioned only one – Ribouldingue. August’s Elle had a review/mention of a new book on “Cantine” food written by Sébastien Demorand, Emmanuel Rubin and Sophie Brissaud entitled “20 sur 20 !” that indicates it features a macédoine by Yves Camdeborde, céleri rémoulade by Pierre Gagnaire and fruit salad by Flora Mikula (Editions Agnès Viénot, on sale as of 31 August.) {Sounds really neat.} The August Bon Appetit had in its “Starter” section, mention of the Palais de la Mediterranee in Nice. In August in Expatica Simon Coss had an article on the only AOC-designated moules - those from Mont St Michel. The weekend of August 5th-6th, John Talbott wrote a piece for Bonjour Paris on The “Hot New Quarters: 8th and 20th” and Margaret Kemp wrote up the new finger food place called Kube in her “Buzz” column. Then August 12-13th, Margaret Kemp featured the Gantie Guides restaurants published in French and English that review along the Mediterranean coasts of France and Italy and John Talbott wrote a piece on air conditioning. August 19-20, Margaret Kemp wrote about Christian Willer and other places around Cannes and John Talbott about “Cluttered Food.” Also, our own Felice wrote a piece on tipping etiquette. August 26-27th, in Bonjour Paris John Talbott wrote a piece on “Talking to and with Others” and Margaret Kemp wrote about Spoon Byblos in St Tropez. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

My 2 eurocents: experience has shown me that, even on days when I just want to "roam around", I'm much more pleased with the end result when I'm roaming vaguely towards 2 or 3 "known" possible eating destinations. ← A solution; carry the Zurban Guide with a nifty map of each quartier before each section, featuring largely new restos & wine bars. Grab it fast because this is the last edition.Just a few weeks ago, our foursome showed up at La Grande Rue and guess what, it was now a totally different place; quick huddle, off to Thierry Burlot for possibly our best ever meal there. Talbott Rule #102b; always have 1-2 backups; one never knows when power outages, sous-chef outrages or banks strike.

As Fresh_a, Margaret Kemp, Le Figaro and others have noted, as of September he'll be at l'Orangerie on the Ile St Louis.

I'd second Casaluna and add l'Ardoise + Point Bar as walkable/near the Louvre. But Doc is correct, don't let a metro stop or two bar you from a 5 minute detour to where you want.

Depends on your definition of local and touristy. I live a few blocks from the route and never miss it. It features "local" "celebrities" like the Mayor of Montmartre in an antique car, groups of wine enthusiasts (third age mind you) from the major wine growing regions wearing regional dress, our own friends of Montmartre singing group and "toy soldiers" - a sort of Tivoli come South and depending on the invitees, sometimes even pom-pom girls from California or jazz musicians from the rest of the US. The one thing you should not be seduced by is the wine itself but apart from that it's fun. There was a thread on the area a while back. As Felice says, check the thread. Maxan is modern and reasonably priced but I've found it inconsistent (twice nice, once pretty bad). There are a ton of modern places - Kube, Pinxo, Cinq Mars, Ze - if you like Philippe Starck, I'll bet you can Google all the places he's touched.Edited by John Talbott to include thread link.

Expatica has an AFP-sourced article in English saying much the same as Le Figaro but with a headline indicating it's not over til it's over; quoting the head "of France's tobacco producers' federation René le Pape" suggesting places install air-purifiers, Andre Daguin, ex-Hotel de France in Auch, now head of the Union des Metiers et des Industries de l'Hotelliere hospitality association suggesting that "bars could install smoking rooms in which staff were not required to serve" and re-quoting PM Villepin's statrement to Le Figaro that "nothing is yet definitively decided."

I'm sure you've already checked our compendium of weekend closings/openings in the Pinned thread above, if not you might want to.