John Talbott

Oh that reminds me of my recent meal at les Symples de l'os a moelle in Issy just facing the last stop on the Metro; much like their Cave, plates on every table, good main, lots of desserts, see here. I endorse the picnic idea too. The Parc Monceau and Luxembourg are perfect venues.

Frogs legs, snails and foie gras.

A few more thoughts: L'Ebauchoir, 43-5 Rue de Citeaux, 12th 01.43.42.49.31 L'Epi Dupin, 11 rue Dupin, 6th, 584/2, 42.22.64.56 Le Troquet 21, rue Francois Bonvin, 15th, 01.45.66.89.00 Biche au Bois Quite a while back, a member picaman, listed the following, but I think they are way out of your 10 E limit. They were: *Fish - 69, rue du Seine (6th) *Aux Lyonnaise - 32, rue St. Marc (2nd) *La Régalade - 49, avenue Jean-Moulin (14th) *Au C'Amelot - 50, rue Amelot (11th) *La Chope de la Marie - 88, rue Ordener (18th) *L'Occitanie - 96, rue Oberkampf (11th) *Clown Bar - 114, rue Amelot (11th) *Jacques Melac - 42, rue Leon-Frot (11th) *L'as du Fallafel - 34, rue du Rosiers (4th) *Cafe Constant - 139, rue Saint-Dominique (7th) *Au Bon Acceuil - 14, rue Monttessuy (7th) *Violon d'Ingres - 135, rue Saint Dominique (7th) *La Fontaine de Mars - 129, rue Saint-Dominique (7th) *Au Dauphin - 167, rue Saint-Honoré (1st) *Chez Michel - 10, Rue de Belzunce (10th) *Philippe Detourbe - 8, rue Nicolas Charlet (15th) *Bistrot du Dôme - 1 rue Delambre (14th) *La Cave de l'Os a Moelle - 181, rue de Lourmel (15th); and *L'Os a Moelle - 3, rue Vasco de Gama (15th) *Le Repaire de Cartouche - 99, rue Amelot (11th) Aux Negociants - 27, rue Lambert (18th) Calixte - 64, rue Saint-Louis en L'Ile (Patissierie - 4th) Benoit - 20, rue Saint-Martin (4th) Le Pré Verre - 8, rue Thenard (5th) L'Estrapade - 15, rue de l'Estrapade (5th) Le Dome due Marais - 53, rue des Francs-Bourgeois (4th) And finally, as I recounted in the Digest, on the website for RestoaParis, appeared a note about a sort-of “Resto U” called La Terrasse de la Cité Internationale, 17, boulevard Jourdan in the 14th (Metro Cite Universitaire), 01.43.13.66.38 that serves a dish at 10,50 Euros or a starter and main for 13,60 Euros but a review January 14th only gave it 1 of 3 stars. It’s near the “U’ but is open to the public and has separate tables and actually looks quite nice.

Sara, this is a challenge I've not encountered in our archives, and a great one. To me it seems that there are several strategies: One, do as you suggest - go to pho, couscous, Thai, African or other exotic ethnic places, but is this really what 18 year old Georgians think French food is? Two, search thru the Digest for "formulas," eg one dish 10-12 Euro offerings in often quite good places. Three, try to find some "cantines" or Resto-U's, what were called in the good old days in Italy "mensas." It's my recollection that two of this Forum's contributors are currently engaged in a project on these. Four, go to the "tourist trap" streets, for example, the Rue de Buci or Rue de la Huchette. Fifth, suck it up, get their parents to give them what my pal Paga gave his kids - "food scholarships," for a bit more expensive, altho' still very inexpensive but genuine French meals, at places like le Pre Verre, Avant Gout, Chartier, Astier, Biche au Bois + Dix vins. Eat take-out from La Grande Epicerie (at Bon Marche), Galeries L and/or your friendly neighborhood cheese/BBQ/Horsemeat/etc places. {Full disclosure - on my first visit to France, when I was 18 yo, and living in "rural" upstate New York, I thought that La vache qui rit, tinned pate de foie gras and greasy pastries were the end of the world. Now, truth be told, my group leader, a real gem, had secreted away monies and after eating soggy baguettes and stuff on soggy Loire banks, pumping from Chartres to the Pointe du Raz, "treated us" to dinners in Paris our last few days at La Tour d'Argent + Maxim's. In medieval times, this was heaven.}

Outstanding but it was unclear if he's going to continue these every day.

World Cup Food: What’d’ya eat? Boy oh boy, what a last 36 hours! Today, as I sat glued to the TV watching Trinidad and Tobago deftly holding off Sweden and Drogba singlehandedly try, but ultimately be unable to, best Argentina, I thought, I shouldn’t be eating “normal” food, I should be indulging in beef jerky, ndole and beef respectively. Now, as a child of WWII, I draw the line at gorging on knockwurst and sauerkraut at every German goal, or over-cooked mutton when the Brits score (altho’ Beckham can sure bend ‘em can’t ‘e?), but there are so many new-comers to this year’s soccer-football feast, how do you do suitable homage to their respective cuisines? A bit back, there was a terrific thread on what to eat during the Tour de France. I’d like to stimulate us in a similar fashion to think of how we will honor the great and tiny nations that qualified for this wonderful event by suggesting what we might eat as the days next week unfold. So, for tomorrow, where do we pick up Serbian- Montenegrin cheese envelopes for breakfast, Persian rice and lamb for lunch and Angolan fish soup for dinner, etc.? I can certainly handle Monday, right, pickles and miso soup for breakfast, a foie gras hamburger (see the Digest) for lunch and pasta with the grandkiddies for dinner. But afterwards? Togolese, Croatian, Ecuadorian?

John, you know I respect you enormously as well and have a couple of further thoughts on this subject.One is that it's worthwhile knowing if a place has off days or nights (I don't buy the argument that every place, no matter how well rated, has a bad day - I have had too many places maintain their consistency year after year, for almost 20 years in one case - to think that.) Second is that I suspect, only suspect mind you, that when folks see the drift of a thread's comments positive or negative, they back off from dissenting (I know I did here until Daisy17 went counter to the tidal wave of praise). And third is that I wish we could encourage folks to put more stuff up, good or bad, rather than carry it in pectore (case in point, a trusted foodwriter friend with whom I often eat had a bad meal this week with 3 others at a place I and others have raved about). It would be very helpful to have the details of what made it bad/disappointing to know what surprises to avoid: e.g., dishes bland, improperly prepared and/or plated, sauces over-whelming or oversalted, meat and/or fish over-cooked, etc).

Terraces from the Digest Terraces

The May 26, 2004 Figaroscope gave this list of restaurants with terraces: La Terrasse du Parc Petite Cour Café Lenotre Terrasse Mirabeau Cinnamon Bertie Fontaine Gaillon Café Corazza Café Marly Café Véry Restaurant du Palais-Royal L’Espadon Il Cortile Park Le Petit Théâtre Bristol Le Cinq Maison du Danemark Laurent Maison Blanche Cour-jardin du Plaza Hotel Raphaël Le Sud La Gare Le Totem Roland-Garros Apollo Closerie des Lilas Noura Pavillion Montsouris Bistrot de Breteuil Fontaine de Mars Maison de Amérique Latine Bermuda Onion Académie de la Bière Café Maure de la Mosquée Café de la Nouvelle Marie Chantairelle Léna et Mimile Mauzac Chai 33 Le Guvinac Club Med World Café Bibliothèque Le Brespail Mélac Viaduc Café Boca Chica Café Beaubourg L’Estaminet Georges Grissli Fous d’En Face Marianne No Stress Café Auberge du Clos Le Papkika A. Beauvilliers And the following week, May 31 supplied this additional list : The Bristol hotel's patio Le Jardin des Cygnes at the Hôtel Price de Galles Le Jardin d’Ampère L'Hôtel Raphaël Le Pré Catalan La Grande Cascade Le Jardin de Bagatelle Galion (the boat) Terras'Hôtel Café des Lettres Café du Musée Jacquemart-André Café Marly Bistrot des Dames In the May 23rd 2005 “Dossier,” the Figaroscope group describes briefly a host of places to eat that have terraces: Roland-Garros Le Pavillon des Princes Le Quinzieme Cuisine Attitude Le Marquis Cafe de l’Homme Le 20e Art La Terrasse du Jardin Aux Marches du Palais Le Square Le Cafe des Techniques In Palaces and Grand Hotels : L’Espadon Les Orchidees-le Grill Le Cinq Bristol La Place Le Pavillon Pershing Hall La Table du Lancaster Show Offs : Hotel Costes Apollo La Gare Le Flandrin Harold Le Cafe de la Jatte With that Village Feeling : L’Absinthe Au Bourguignon du Marais Pasco Fontaine de Mars Chai 33 La Cagouille La Terrasse Mirabeau Caves Petrissans Charming : Fontaine Gaillon Restaurant du Palais-Royal Il Cortile La Cigale Recamier Le Delicabar Maison du Danemark Cafe Guitry Sud Eye-filling : Café Marly Le Georges Maison Blanche On greensward: Maison de l’Amerique Latine Café Lenotre Laurent Pavillon Montsouris Chalet des Iles Le Pre Catelan Pavillon de la Grande Cascade June 27th 2005 they summarized the 10 best terraces: La Blanchisserie, Café Guitry, Le Bistrot des Dames, Flora Danica, Le Square, Le Delicabar, Apollo, La Cigale Recamier, Il Cortile, Le Pavillion des Princes. In the same week, Le Monde’s Jean-Claude Ribaut had an article on restaurants with terraces for summer eating. They included: L'Absinthe, Le Bistrot d'à côté Villiers, Laurent, La Grande Cascade, La Cagouille, La Terrasse Mirabeau, Au Relais des Buttes, Le Coq de la Maison Blanche. July 18th, A Nous Paris published another list of restaurants to go to this summer that have terraces. They are: the Hotel St-James & Albany, L’Estaminet, Point Ephemere, Apollo, La Plage, Le Quinzième, Tokyo Eat, Café de l’Homme, Le Roland-Garros, Le Square, Le 20e Art.

My gang stopped going because they practically never changed the menu; have they altered their practice?

There is a nifty wine bar/restaurant just across from the market called Les Enfants Rouges, 90 rue des Archives, that a friend introduced me to recently; it's sort of a watering hole for chefs/food-writers/etc after they've finished lunch run by a woman called Dany. Also to add to the the Pamphlet recommendation, they've just opened an annex that I'll be reporting on in the Digest called Le Petit Pamphlet, 15, rue St Gilles in the 4th, 01.42.71.22.21, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday lunch, costing 30-40 € for ceviche of sardines, veal with carrots, risotto with ink and rice pudding. I think you already know my impressions of the others.

Figaro Madame had two articles, one on Japanese pastry by Maya Blanc that featured: Kitchoan, 17, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.40.06.91.28, Toraya, 10, rue Saint-Florentin in the 1st, 01.42.60.13.00 and Chajin, 24, rue Pasquier in the 8th, 01.53.30.05.24, the other by Alexandra Michot on sexy looking pastry.

No but if I'm not mistaken that space was a crepes/etc nook in the past.

Has anyone eaten there?Your impressions? Pricey? ← From the Digest of April 10th

Oh yes. The Dalloyau Luxembourg doesn't open til 9 but it's worth the wait. See here.

As a host and trying to act host-ish, and aware that some members consider me too tough on places, I tried to stay out of this one, but daisy17's comment prompts me to get back in the fray; I too am surprised at such adulation thrown towards Barbot. I think Chauvel is a wonder and worth going back and back again to; Barbot, sorry, doesn't show me much except talent run amok.

Well, the lost is found.As luck would have it, I was knocking about the Ile d'Yeu websites this morning and stumbled upon a Chez Nicolas whose site informs one that: Nicolas Vagnon {welcomes you starting 30 March on the l'Ile d'Yeu} Chez Nicolas 13 rue du Marché 85350 Port Joinville tél: 06 74 24 73 10 I will report back after eating there next week.

This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Luberon Food/Wine tours South of France Casual suggestions in the Luberon

Please see here for Le Comptoir and here for something stuff in the Luberon.

This last week Le Figaroscope’s “Dossier” provided a list of places to eat with terraces whilst we are awaiting the reopening in September of the Pavillon Puebla in the Buttes Chaumont renamed Villa dell’Arte: 1st – L'Absinthe, Café Marly, L'Espadon Hôtel Ritz, Hôtel Costes + Restaurant du Palais Royal 2nd – La Fontaine Gaillon + Les Orchidées 4th – Georges 5th – Chantairelle + Le Zyriab at the Institut du monde arabe 6th – La Closerie des Lilas 7th – La Maison de l'Amérique Latine {my personal favorite for a great garden} 8th – L'Avenue, Bristol, Café Lenôtre, La Cour Jardin du Plaza Athénée, La Table du Lancaster, Le Cinq, Le Fouquet's, Hôtel Royal Monceau, Laurent, La Maison Blanche, Le Pershing Hall, La Place, La Terrace Montaigne + SAS Radisson 9th – Hôtel Amour 10th – Chez Prune + Point Éphémère 11th – Khun Akorn + Pause Café 12th – Le Square Trousseau 14th – La Cagouille + Le Pavillon Montsouris 15th – La Plage Parisienne + Le Quinzième 16th – Café de l'Homme, La Gare, La Grande Cascade, Hôtel Raphael, Le Pré Catelan, Le Rolland Garros, La Terrasse du Parc + Le Chalet des Iles du Bois de Boulogne 17th – Bistrot des Dames + Le Jardin d'Ampère 18th – A Beauvilliers + Terrass'Hôtel 19th – Café de la Musique + Le Rendez-vous des Quais Neuilly – Durant Dupont + Café de la Jatte

The Week of May 29th, 2006 Saturday-Sunday, in his “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon, wrote about the splendidly mediocre cooking at the Automobile Club, on the place de la Concorde, where ties are required and women aren’t allowed at lunch, one of several clubs in Paris costing one vertiginous fees – 10,000 € for admission and 2,000 € a year, about which he gives the old Groucho Marx quote regarding not wanting to join any club that would have him. He goes on and on about the snooker’s table(s), swimming pool designed by Eiffel, theater, barbershop, etc. He contrasts this with the good food and gentle prices (21 € menu) at le Marsanguy for an avocado and shrimp millefeuille, roast Saint Marcellin, sweetbread fricassée with chanterelles, roast bar with pesto and oxtail salad. Monday, Le Fooding’s events announced that the next Grand Fooding would be in Lyon commencing June 4th at Subsistances in the midst of the “Intranquilles” festival, specific info available June 1st on their website. Their favorites appearing will include: Sonia Ezgulian of L'Oxalis, Nicolas Le Bec himself [sic], Thierry Marx of the Cordeillan-Bages, Akaogi Masami of Sushi Kai in Beaune, David Zuddas of the Auberge de la Charme in Prenois and Marion Chatelain and Emanuelle Tardy. Menus are 15-20 €; wine starting at 20 €. Address: 20, grande rue de Vaise in Lyon’s 9th, 04.78.83.32.25 from 12 noon – 1:30 PM and 8-9:30 PM Thursday and Friday. Monday, in A Nous Paris, copy ramassed by Felice - they cover places to “See and be seen”: Georges, Le Market, Hotel Costes, Cigale Recamier + le Rolland-Garris. Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban primarily reviewed Astier, coordinates well-known, which he called a bistrot with wine, where he dined following its creator’s demise, liking the new guy (Michel Picard)’s prices – 28 € for an entrée, plat, cheeses and dessert. Despite the presence of accented Anglophones ordering “fwâââ grâââ,” he also liked his lamb sweetbreads, bulots and shrimp with aïoli, rabbit liver terrine, kidneys with mustard sauce and pommes Dauphine. His “Casserole” restos were very disappointing: an Italian pizza place, the Maison d'Italie in the 20th and two French ones – Volnay, 8, rue Volney {that’s right – Volnay Volney} in the 2nd, 01.42.61.06.65, closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday nights with a formula at 24 €, menu: 32 € and a la carte: 40-45 € where he loved the enormous wine selection but disliked the food (salmon tartare on toast, loin of lamb with pitiful garnitures and under-cooked langoustines) and the Table Dancourt where he had to salt the duck foie gras on spinach and his beef tartare was made in the chef’s fashion (without capers) and atop shoe-string potatoes but the pig’s feet was simple and not bad – leading him to conclude that this is a “curious” place {for my review and coordinates see here. Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin in “C’est nouveau,” gave two hearts to l’Atelier des Comperes, coordinates given last week, with menus 33 & 40 € for calamari, a millefeuille of confited veggies, veal mignon with morilles and Grand Marnier soufflé and an Italian place San in the 3rd. One heart each went to: In Square in the Little Palace Hôtel. 4, rue Salmon de Caus in the 3rd, 01.42.72.08.15, closed weekends, costing 35-40 € for “company cantine” food such as passable herring filets, breaded veal scallop and an edible entrecote and fries; a New Yorkese neo-café New York Coffee in the 17th; and the Japanese Momiji in the 11th. Le Figaro's Frank Picard also wrote up a huge list of places to eat with terraces whilst we are awaiting the reopening in September of the Pavillon Puebla in the Buttes Chaumont renamed Villa dell’Arte: 1st – L'Absinthe, Café Marly, L'Espadon Hôtel Ritz, Hôtel Costes + Restaurant du Palais Royal 2nd – La Fontaine Gaillon + Les Orchidées 4th – Georges 5th – Chantairelle + Le Zyriab at the Institut du monde arabe 6th – La Closerie des Lilas 7th – La Maison de l'Amérique Latine {my personal favorite for a great garden} 8th – L'Avenue, Bristol, Café Lenôtre, La Cour Jardin du Plaza Athénée, La Table du Lancaster, Le Cinq, Le Fouquet's, Hôtel Royal Monceau, Laurent, La Maison Blanche, Le Pershing Hall, La Place + SAS Radisson 9th – Hôtel Amour 10th – Chez Prune + Point Éphémère 11th – Khun Akorn + Pause Café 12th – Le Square Trousseau 14th – La Cagouille + Le Pavillon Montsouris 15th – La Plage Parisienne + Le Quinzième 16th – Café de l'Homme, La Gare, La Grande Cascade, Hôtel Raphael, Le Pré Catelan, Le Rolland Garros, La Terrasse du Parc + Le Chalet des Iles du Bois de Boulogne 17th – Bistrot des Dames + Le Jardin d'Ampère 18th – A Beauvilliers + Terrass'Hôtel 19th – Café de la Musique + Le Rendez-vous des Quais Neuilly – Durant Dupont + Café de la Jatte Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” sampled La Terrasse Montaigne entrance in front of 27, avenue Montaigne in the 8th, 01.53.67.66.99, open 12-10 PM without reservations, starting at 35 €. Bottom line- is it expensive? – You bet, too much, 123 € for two. Go by to see the scene (rich folk with Louis Vuitton knock-offs, talking of Ducasse in NYC) but eat instead inside at the Garden Court or at l’Avenue. Thursday-Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde suggested one and then other rosés for picnics. Thursday, in the New York Times in an article on Marie Antoinette in the “Versailles Journal,” Elaine Sciolino wrote that the Trois Marches, coordinates well-known, was now offering a $127 five-course Marie-Antoinette menu with 18th century dishes such as “stuffed sweetbreads with mushrooms, slowly boiled beef and St. Pierre….with spinach and herb sauce.” Thursday, J-L Petitrenaud in l’Express, wrote up Paul Bocuse’s latest venture – a grand brasserie called l’Ouest, 1 quai Commerce in Lyon’s 9th and Ostape in Bidarray. Meanwhile, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski writes of asparagus from Hoerdt and how to fix a carpaccio of it, the under-appreciated Eric Briffard, the Saint of Macaroons – Herme, the secret resto near museums – the Café des Musées, Paris places Vaudeville + Le Daru that he is following, Chez Maitre Paul + Romain that are in good shape and Le Bistrot d'Eygalières in Eygalières. Rosa Jackson, in “Paris Bites,” in Paris Notes, reviews two relatively new places : Temps Au Temps and La Ferrandaise, coordinates given before. At the former, she had the Basque aperitif Txapa, a Cotes de Nuits Village, mackerel atop too fatty marrow, asparagus soup, too chewy pork belly, great pollack with artichokes and a chewy chocolate dessert. At the latter she had three starters: the best – the raviolis of foie gras with fresh herbs and slivers of beet; then potato stuffed with escargots and camembert and an ordinary seafood salad with marinated lisettes. She liked the meat as well - esp the roast veal - and the cappuccino dessert. She also raves about two finds in Lyon: Nicolas Le Bec and the “friendly bistro” Magali et Martin. Meanwhile, the UK’s July France wrote up restaurants in Millau, mentioning: Capion + La Mangeoire as well as in Biarritz – Les Plantanes, Aux Alizes, Chez Albert + La Goelette, in Burgundy - Aux Berges de la Grosne in Ameuggny and I’Auberge du Cheval Blanc in Cluny and in Cele – Lou Bolat. June’s GoGo wrote up Chateaubriand. On the Paris Insights: Discover Paris site there is an interview with Juan Sánchez, an American who runs both Fish and the wine store, La Dernière Goutte, that has generated a fair amount of commentary on eGullet. June’s Gourmet has listed, among its Restaurant Roundup, in Paris Le 144 Petrossian, commending chef Dia’s “talent with spices.” Sunday in the NYT Travel Section, Mark Bittman recommended several places in Nice: Chez Theresa, Chez Palmyre, Acchiardo, l’Escalinda, La Table Alziari + Lou Balico as well as these two for snacks: Rene Socca + Auer. Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “Jouni Tormanen Comes to Town” about the Nice chef’s coming to be Ducasse's young talent this month that also mentions several other restaurants in Nice: Jouni L’Atelier du Gout, Luc Salsedo, Parcours – Jean-Marc Delacourt, Louis XV + La Meranda. Edited by John Talbott to clear up some errors. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

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Well as a male Yank, I don't think I'm the best one to be helpful here, but Margaret Kemp has an article (on Jouni Tormanen coming to be Ducasse's young talent this month) in this weekend's Bonjour Paris, that also mentions several other restaurants in Nice that I think fit your bill (I know you gotta subscribe but it's worth it {disclosure: I write essays for BP on food-related issues}). She likes Jouni L’Atelier du Gout, Luc Salsedo, Parcours – Jean-Marc Delacourt, The Louis XV + La Meranda.

This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior threads on eGullet. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Restaurants Sushi quality fish Nice events Monaco, Nice, St Tropez, Provence Socca Artisan Bakers 10 Days and buying copper Mougins, Cannes, Nice

I haven't had the time or masochistic patience to compile a Compendium on the Core d'Azur/Nice, I think there are 18 pages worth of titles containing those words; but do a search and you may find it.