MichaelB

You people scare me. I can honestly report that there is not a single edible thing in my home that I have not run out of at least once in the last 25 years. To clarify the double negative -- if I use it, I have run out of it. You know, you buy this stuff to EAT it, not look at it!

It keeps the hot stuff hot and the cold stuff cold. i know what a thermos is and what it does. speaking of which, i wonder where my old blue one is. hmm. i don't understand the part about a thermos knowing. Three guys are discussing the greatest invention ever. The first says the televison because you can see events happening around the world as they occur. The second says the telephone because you can actually speak to the participants in said events. The third says the thermos because it keeps hot stuff hot and cold stuff cold. The other two look at him and ask "what's go great about that?" To which the third replies "How do it know?"

Park Bistro

Off topic but the funniest clean joke ever!

and because they want to be around people just like themselves. which i suppose might be considered a good thing for others. I subscribe to the Groucho Marx theory of club membership: I wouldn't want to be a member of any club that would have me.

The Beard Foundation is having an event at Bruno Jamais on January 5. You could go to that without dropping the $7,000. Champagne Indulgence Dinner. Champagne by Charles Heidsieck Champagne. Members (of the Foundation) and Guests, $150 per.

I have a couple of great service stories that I could tell; but I have one favorite -- it covers about 5 years. It's my honeymoon, 1981; Greenbrier, West Virginia. My wife and I only had a few days available for our honeymoon, so we stayed relatively close to home. Our first night, we dutifully called to make our dinner reservations in the Main Dining Room as requested. The maitre 'd seats us; our captain is an older Irish gentleman named Bernie Gallagher. The meal was fine; the service was quite good. The meal was included in the American Plan pricing, but I had ordered a bottle of wine. The house automatically added (in those days) 15% to the perhaps $30 bottle of wine. I added an additional either $2 or $3 to the check to take the wine tip to just over 20%. The next night, we walked past Mr. Gallagher's station on the way to the maitre d' stand. He caught my eye, came over and thanked me for "taking such good care of him the previous evening." He took us to the same table we had the last night and explained to us that for as long as he worked at the Greenbrier, this would be our table, no need to make a reservation and that if he was going to be off or assigned to a party room, he would so advise us the evening before and also tell us who our captain would be (and make an introduction, if necessary). We visited the Greenbrier at least once a year for the next five or so years. Bernie took care of our every desire, request or thought in the mostprofessional manner. He liked to tell that his first job in food service was as a busser in the first class dining room on the Queen Mary where the rule was "every request met and never an extra charge." When Bernie retired, he transferred the job as our captain to another of the Greenbrier long-timers. Quite often, something that happens in a restaurant will trigger a simultaneous memory of Bernie for both my wife and me. We will each laugh and know immediately that the other has the same memory. Bernie Gallagher personified for us the Greenbrier's motto of "Ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen." If there is a first class dining room in heaven, he's probably the captain of the"A" tables.

Funny, I run to this thread the morning after I entertain at home.

thank you michael, you are a lucky guy. I bet your fishmonger has realized over the years that this is a good way to do business. I have referred a meaningful amount of business to him, including a high profile commercial account. He also gets dinner invitations a few times a year; my wife send him cookies; etc, etc. Like I said, he became a good friend before I started getting the "use the back door" treatment.

I may have the best vendor relationships of anyone -- particularly since I am an individual rather than a business account. My fish guy (who over the years has become a very good friend): Allows me freezer and refrigerator space for things that I don't have enough room for; Sells to me on open account -- and I keep track of the account balance; Is open whenever I want/need him to be, rather than the other way around; If a I need a pickup truck for a few hours, I have his; If I need a refrigerated truck for a few days (and it happens at least once a year for a charity thing I do), I have his; Delivers to my house if need be; I use his cutting room if I need to do anything particularly messy; Accepts drop ships of stuff for me -- and pays for it if necessary; Will make a zillion calls for some oddball thing I just have to have; And a bunch of other stuff that I probably forget. Other vendors -- like my cheese, meat, and produce vendors -- treat me quite well. I don't think I really get freebies from them; but I get great service. Things like a call that they got a small quantity of whatever and how much of it I would like put aside until I get in. Saturday I wanted a pound of dill that my produce guy did not have. He called one of his suppliers who set it aside in will call for me.

I try to visit the "big" groccery store about every 3 to 4 weeks. I can't say that I enjoy going there. Going to the city market and visiting each of the vendors I use -- those are some of my favorite times each week. I go at least twice; sometimes three times a week.

Sure, it can be done. Just don't cure the legs before simmering in the fat. It won't be quite as tasty but still better than most anything on earth -- except maybe gravad lax, see thread of earlier this week. Take duck legs, place in pan of rendered duck fat, simmer very low for 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Finished. If you have anything more than 2 hours, cure the duck for whatever additional time you have.

I think that I am up 5 since I posted: Letters to a Young Chef Larousse Gastronomique Oxford Companion A to Z of French Food Le Repertoire (English)

I will admit to never having thought of gravad lax (one of the many correct spellings, I am told) in precisely those terms. NOw having so thought, I now know what I have been experiencing all these years. There is always grvad lax available at our home during the holidays. The first "harvest" of December 2004 goes on the cure on Saturday. I prefer mine a bit "rounder" tasting. So, my alcohol of choice in the cure is cognac. The bite others get from vodka, I get from using a bit more pepper than most others I have tasted.

The dedication in total:

Not much freezer space -- a couple of drawer freezers if I recall correctly. Refrigerator space is better; there are either 2 or 3 large reach ins. Working space for 4 to 6 is about right. In July, I was part of a crew of 5 plus 2 ICE interns. We didn't step all over each other very much. The one step above domestic is accurate in many ways. For example, the range burners will seem underpowered to you. Allow extra time to saute and sear things. Oven space can be at a premium also. Plan your oven time very well -- particularly any pastry needs. Finally, if you have never worked there before, remember that the guests hang around in the kitchen during cocktail hour. So, space becomes even more an issue (you lose 2 stations on the outside of the island). But, the guests also like to see work going on. So plan to do some things that you can talk about, other than plating canapes, during that time. I think they no longer do any lunches at the House, so you can have access early in the morning of the day. The December schedule is not up on the web site yet (and my book is at home) but if there is nothing at the House on the 26th, you can have the kitchen the day before. As far as I know, the deal at the W is available to everyone. We didn't do any prep there but we did store all of our stuff in their walk-ins overnight.

I have to admit that it was one I did on the fly. My wife and I were at my parents with 20 other family members. Early in the afternoon, my mother walks up to me with a pound of jumbo lump crab and asks if there is anything that I could make with it "to snack on." I rooted around in the fridge for a minute and came up with the following canape: Slice a baguette very thin, sprinkle with salt, pepper and EVOO. Toast in the oven. Mix together crab, minced shallot, diced apple, lime juice, salt and pepper; bind with a bit of sour cream (I would have preferred creme fraiche). Mound a bit on toasts and serve.

I say this regularly -- maybe typing it out will help me remember. I will never again pay attention to anything other than the task at hand while using a cutting implement. Last night, I became amused by the warning molded into the side of the japanese mandoline -- "Watch your fingers!" I begin thinking of the hazards of paying attention to the warning while using the madoline and my ring finger slides off the fennel bulb I was shaving. One hour of direct pressure later, the bleeding was reduced enough for me to see that I lost a few layers of finger tip. I probably should have sought medical attention; but I am way too stubborn for that. Pay attention, stupid!

I often use a parchment "lid" for braising. Usually, it is because I have no cover for the braising vessel. The parchment will prevent a skin. It also prevents the steam, condensation, drip cycle. Don't ask me what difference, if any, that makes to the braise.

The same way you section any citrus fruit! Cut the rind, pith and "outer" membrane from the fruit. With a paring knive make "V" cuts along the edge of each membrane line, each section will drop out. Takes just about a minute per fruit -- unless, of course, you also want to blanch or candy the rind. Then, you simply add a first step of removing just the colored part of the rind with a vegetable peeler.

Alex Lee left Daniel on July 31. Bruel's appointment was some time a bit later -- I read about it sometime later in August, I think.

I think that she is also way too recognized to be a reviewer at this point in her career.

I am pretty good about cleaning as I go. I insist on having clean counters, etc before I start. Every Saturday (too complicated to explain why this is not necessary other days), I wash the lunch dishes before startingto prep dinner -- even if it is a small sauce pan and a ladle! I do have the luxury of a great deal of counter space; but "my" station has to be clean. When we entertain, Mrs.B is really good about cleaning up as we go. Usually we have a few pots and pans and a zillion wine glasses to wash after guests leave. Sometimes those wait until the next morning. I am *really* bad about cleaning the stove and the fridge, though. Those have to wait until I get inspired. Of course a complete job on the range, two ovens, griddle and exhaust hood takes me about a half day.

I am just intimidating enough that friends who are not good cooks don't invite me to their homes -- and that is just fine with me. We have one friend who insists on entertaining us in her home. I cook when we go there. I really have only one complaint about that. She tends to call me 10 days or so before the dinner and wants to talk about the menu for the evening. I always say the same thing "buy what you'd like to eat and I will cook something using those ingredients." I finally had the chance to tell her (nicely, I think) that were I having the dinner party I would first think about a menu 4 or 5 hours before guests arrive and I will not spend more time on her menu than I would on my own. We have another friend who cannot cook at all who has invited us for dinner. I mumble, smile and say polite things about the food. One or two others are really interested in becoming better cooks. Those, I encourage and give tips, suggestions, etc. to.

On Sunday, I had the opportunity to tailgate with a bunch of friends who are in and around the food biz. What a party! We drove from Cincinnati to Indy for the Colts/Jets game. No comments please about missing the best pro game to have been played in Cincy in 15 years. Our event had been planned for a year. Our host has a specialty prepared foods company. Included in the troop were a chef, a pastry chef, two line cooks, a wine rep, 4 people involved in restaurant management and assorted friends, spouses and significant others. The food? Five varieties of cured or smoked salmon Three version of cured duck A huge pot of chili Lamb racks, lightly smoked then roasted with a red wine demi dipping sauce Gnocchi with sauteed spinach and brown butter A sliced and grilled pork product -- I did not catch the Italian name but believe it translates to "Face of the Pig" An enormous cheese platter Assorted breads, crackers, etc. Fruit Brownies Champagne and wine sufficiently varied to earn awards were it a restaurant's wine list Beer I probably missed a few things. We were the highlight of the parking lot! Perhaps the best memory will be of the couple walking past and as they eyed lamb warming in a saute pan, the guy points and says "nice rack!" Way too much fun based on how I felt yesterday.