Barcelona, December 2006

[Lenski]

Hola,

Just back from 10 days in/around Barcelona. A great city around this time of year (we stayed at the Majestic and Omm). How can you not love a culture that puts a "caganer" in their Nativity scene? Around town, Martin Berasategui will open another restaurant (right across from Lasarte) geared towards a more "popular" cuisine (meaning cheaper). I also found out that NOBU wanted to open a restaurant in Barcelona but he decided against it once "els numeros no li quadraven" according to one of my sources. I would be interested in learning more about what went wrong. And, of course, Ducasse will soon arrive (at the Mandarin). Talk about the mountain going to Mahoma.

I never thought I would say this but, towards the end of my trip, I was really stuffed. I would love to hear "tricks" that people use in order to keep enjoying food. My routine is running at least four miles every morning, never snack, and ask for the smallest portions. I always have the "tasting menu" with wine pairing. Although, truth be told, I stopped having the wine pairing around my 7th dinner and just had water. I just could not have any more wine and even very good food started tasting

We visited 12 restaurants. I will only post about three (Ruscalleda because it was my best meal, "Lasarte" because there are no posts, and "Comerc 24" for after several so-so visits it finally gave me a very unforgettable meal. Some of my favorite restaurants really disappointed me. In one particular case, it was an "ouch" moment. HOwever, it might have been me and I believe that sometimes my palate does not want to collaborate so I will save some opinions. However, if you want to know, ask....

Among the trends:

a) I have had enough Foie for the rest of my life. I think all menus had one foie dish. It is not always good. And I am glad that I will spend two weeks in Chicago.

b) "Peus de Porc" everywhere.

c) A lot of desserts included "strange" mixtures such as "spinach ice cream" (sublime) to "crema catalana with mushrooms" (not that good), actually they were rossinyols.

c1) Kikos

d) Eggs cooked all kinds of way, runny (most of the time).

e) And, lastly, I am the biggest Truffle (fill in the blanks), but enough is enough. I have had "tofona" everywhere, on everything. Some great combinations but, and "chacun a son gout," a little bit goes a long way.

My best meal for this trip was (no surprise) Sant Pau. I would describe it as miraculous.

A beautiful day in Sant Pol greeted us for some magnificent gastronomy delights. We started with an assortment of "tapas" and amuse ( a "torro salat" to die for)and then the real adventure began:

1) Autumm 2006 ASPIC (Quality zero egg, pumpkin, courgette and spicy sauce)

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11663823...022_1060398.jpg

2)Truffled "Pilota" (Vegetable and meat broth, sweet of the pumpkin, carrot

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11663823...022_1025330.jpg

3) European Lobster"Saute" (Spinach, endive, chayote, Tokoroten fine herbs"

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11663823...4022_315803.jpg

4) Different from the Printed Menu (Angler), and we had a Llobarro (Sea bass?) cooked in between Arce (?).

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...4022_742400.jpg

5) Two choices, we had both.

a) Wild Partridge (stewed a l'ancienne, apple, thym citron

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...4022_459420.jpg

b) Foie and Pig's Trotter (incredible)

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4022_41144.jpg

Among the winners, for us, were the "Escudella" and the Pig's Trotter. Although there were all very good.

And then the desserts came. They started with the Cheeseboard for December. All were felicitous combinations.

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_35940.jpg

As a palate cleanser, I had the most sublime "ice cream" i have ever had

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_34278.jpg

THen the first dessert. The Planets:

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_23473.jpg

and a great take on the "pijama"

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_13515.jpg

Then their chocolate desserts

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...5_4023_1745.jpg

and

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551...5_4023_1745.jpg

And then the "assorted confectionary"

http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/11664551..._4023_41040.jpg

Overall, this was one of the most memorable meals of the year. One of the best wait staff I have ever encountered, and David, a great sommelier, made this meal a great experience. Among the wines that he recommended were l'Argata, and a Jorge Ordonez that were spectacular, as were most of his choices. I also loved the bread service. My last three star meals (in my book it is not a very reliable barometer) were at "Daniel" and "Per Se" in NYC and they are not in the same league. Honestly.

Any more questions, ask.

Next week Chicago: MOto, Alinea and Schwa (talk about the Holy Trinity)

Lenski, rather blasfemous tonight on his way to "Don Carlo" and Picholine.

Edited December 18, 2006 by Lenski (log)

[docsconz]

Thanks for the fine report, Lenski. I am jealous. My memories of Sant Pau are quite fond. The single most memorable part of the meal for me was the composed cheese course. I believe that Ruscalleda is without peer when it comes to doing this.

Would you mind providing translations for some of the Catalan terms and phrases, please?

I look forward to your other reports, especially Comerc24.

[Silly Disciple]

How can you not love a culture that puts a "caganer" in their Nativity scene? 

Caganer is a popular character, which roughly translates as "defecator"

see this wikipedia article.

NOBU wanted to open a restaurant in Barcelona but he decided against it once "els numeros no li quadraven" according to one of my sources.

the numbers did not close.

b) "Peus de Porc" everywhere.

pig trotters

have had "tofona" everywhere, on everything

truffle

[Lenski]

How can you not love a culture that puts a "caganer" in their Nativity scene? 

Caganer is a popular character, which roughly translates as "defecator"

see this wikipedia article.

NOBU wanted to open a restaurant in Barcelona but he decided against it once "els numeros no li quadraven" according to one of my sources.

the numbers did not close.

b) "Peus de Porc" everywhere.

pig trotters

have had "tofona" everywhere, on everything

truffle

←

Thansk for the translations.

[Lenski]

Thanks for the fine report, Lenski. I am jealous. My memories of Sant Pau are quite fond. The single most memorable part of the meal for me was the composed cheese course. I believe that Ruscalleda is without peer when it comes to doing this.

Would you mind providing translations for some of the Catalan terms and phrases, please?

I look forward to your other reports, especially Comerc24.

←

Dear John,

Totally agreed. If I can I will add all the descriptions of the cheese platter.

L.

[Lenski]

Just read in today's paper that Ruscalleda's restaurant in Tokio has been awarded two Michelin stars. Congrats are in order.

[catsrus9]

lenski,

Could you tell me the current price of the tasting menu at San Pau? I'm considering going sometime in december before I leave Barcelona.

Thanks!

Charlie

[Lenski]

lenski,

Could you tell me the current price of the tasting menu at San Pau? I'm considering going sometime in december before I leave Barcelona.

Thanks!

Charlie

←

I cannot help you until February. However, it is usually expensive. I would say that the TM is around E 100-150.