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Posted

There is a good description of this method in Gordon Ramsay's first book, Formulas for Flavour.

I have read this, but it is in John Campbell's Formulas for Flavour I believe.

Never tried to cook it though so would be interested in the results - although I can only assume its pretty bloody good judging by the rest of the book.

Posted
There is a good description of this method in Gordon Ramsay's first book, Formulas for Flavour.
I have read this, but it is in John Campbell's Formulas for Flavour I believe.

Never tried to cook it though so would be interested in the results - although I can only assume its pretty bloody good judging by the rest of the book.

Ah, good spot. GR's Passion for Flavour I was thinking about.

Basically cooks risotto til 75% done, spreads it out thinly on baking tray to cool, stores, finishes at service with more stock, cheese etc.

I got this impression this was the method used at Aubergine in the day.

J

More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!
Posted

The last time I was this excited about a themed restaurant was when Mash opened & I thought it was a homage to mashed potatoes – ah, well.

Ooze – terrible name & terrible eating space – cool blue stark walls, retro modern & surprisingly uncomfortable seats on a rainy winter’s lunchtime its the best way to start a meal – so bad in fact I did even enjoy Peter Bradshaw’s normally excellent rants. But, risotto is one my favourite dishes and when ever I see it on a menu I find it really hard to order something else

Starters was artichoke hearts & Parma Ham – the parma was fine if a bit thick but the artichokes and red peppers looked & tasted like they came form a jar. Shame – could have been a really good combination.

Risotto I chose was butternut, hazelnut & sage. The plate was HUGE. Overflowing with unctuous, bright yellow, mouth-watering loveliness. Admittedly the first mouthful was not great – very sweet – but when the bitterness of the sage & hazelnut kicked in with a little help from some seasoning I got a very satisfying plate of food. Not to everyone’s liking – in fact I’m sure most of you would have hated it because the rice was just slightly overdone & there was lots and lots of sauce – this is they I love it despite so many books saying that the rice should have some bite.

Anyway – don’t expect ooze to be around for much longer – 1pm on Friday & only two tables occupied. A few more did arrive by the time I’d left – but with that superb location they should be swamped. Also – with such a simple idea & limitless versatility I can’t understand why they haven’t gone for ½ dozen specials of the day listed on a blackboard rather than going for a large printed, design fixated but sparsely populated menu. I don’t was to see the same stuff each time I go there and I’m fairly sure they won’t be able to keep up with the printing costs of a constantly changing menu.

A fan - but with some reservations.

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