Diary: August 4, 2002

[Malawry]

Thursday, August 1

We are down to 16 students. One of my classmates averaged below 75 on his grades, and those with an average below 75 are put on academic probation. Students on academic probation are not eligible for federal loans apparently (you must be “in good standing”), and so he had little choice about withdrawing. The student who left was only on my team once, but I heard my classmates talk about him enough to be glad about it. Chef Somchet let the news slip first, and then Chef Peter said something later in the morning. Finally, Chef Francois was very direct about it when he taught our afternoon class, and he gave us a fair amount of detail about the situation.

This means that we will probably default to four teams of four students at lunchtime, except for those days when somebody is out for one reason or another…in which case chances are we will be in five teams of three. I’ve found there’s a big difference in workload between teams of three and teams of four, so this makes me fairly happy. It also means we are the smallest class in the history of L’academie.

Lunch service today involved a tomato soup, pork tenderloin with a roquefort sauce, braised red cabbage and chocolate mousse in a tulip cup. I haven’t handled pork at all in my entire life, so I decided to give it a go. I trussed the meat with kitchen string and put it in the walk-in until service, and then I assembled the ingredients for the sauce. The pork is seared in a saute pan over high heat and then finished in the oven, and then the saute pan is used for making the sauce so the sauce picks up the pork flavor from the caramelized bits on the bottom.

Chris F. was on my team for the first time, and he was handling the tomato soup. He made a gastric to “correct” the soup. This is a combination of red wine vinegar and sugar, cooked down and added to the soup to enhance the sweet-tart tomato flavor. There were deli cups all over the table with red wine, red wine vinegar, and the gastric ready for us to use for our various recipes. When I went to the stove, I selected the darkest red liquid and smelled it. I smelled wine. So I took it along with the roquefort, some shallots, demi-glace, and of course the pork when it was time to put everything together. Once my pork was in the oven I added the shallots to the pan and then deglazed. My sauce was coming along nicely and I was trying to cook the liquid down a sec when suddenly the wine stopped bubbling and turned black. I was confused and a little annoyed, but there was little I could do except return to the table and brunoise more shallots. Just as I got to the table, Chris F. was asking loudly, “Where’s my gastric? It was right here!” Obviously, I deglazed with gastric instead of red wine. Wups.

The rest of lunch service went off without issues. The pork was apparently cooked properly, but I think I just don’t like pork tenderloin. It’s vaguely disagreeable in its mild flavor. I didn’t like how my hands felt sticky-meaty after working with it, and I wasn’t that fond of tying it up with string either. Still, it was a good learning experience, and I’m glad I didn’t shy away from trying it out.

After class let out, I went with three of my classmates to volunteer at a Julia Child 90th Birthday celebration dinner. Chef Francois had asked for volunteers yesterday afternoon, and I’d been one of the first to raise my hand, so I was chosen. We were to oversee the silent auction which was run in conjunction with the dinner, which wasn’t exactly a sexy job but was at least a chance to get out there and see some of Washington’s foodies and perhaps meet a chef or two. We came in our uniforms, and we were fortunate enough after the auction activity had died down to be invited to help with plating behind the line.

The menu for the dinner, which was open to anybody wishing to pay $150 a plate, included a crab flan starter, rockfish and mussel “chowder,” and rack of lamb with feta potatoes. Dessert came after a cheese course in the form of a strawberry shortcake. I helped to plate all of these items, and tried to stay out of the way the rest of the time. Ris Lacoste of 1789, Robert Wiedmaier of Marcel’s, Jon Mathieson, and Gale Gand of Tru were all around supervising production of the dishes they’d contributed to the event, so we had the chance to chat with them. I especially liked Gale, who had a sunny smile and who dished with us happily about bad haircuts and my gastric mishap. I’d met Ris before (I trailed at 1789 a few months ago); she talked with us a lot about ways to get access to Julia herself when she comes to DC for celebrations later this month. Robert was friendly and jocular; he commanded us to get beers once the main plates went out, and he clapped people on the back a lot. We were able to sample most of the goodies in between courses. I enjoyed the potatoes and the rockfish especially. It was exciting to be behind the line, and everybody made us feel welcome. It was clearly a happy evening for all involved.

Friday, August 2

I have a pasta machine at home, but I have not pulled out what I’d regard as a really good batch from it since I purchased it a few months ago. Certainly I’ve made adequate batches of pasta, but I didn’t have the hang of the proper technique, and I eventually decided I’d just wait until I had a chance to learn the method at school before giving it another shot. Today, my lucky day arrived. I was sent to the pastry kitchen to make the pasta to go with sauteed shrimp and a Provencal tomato sauce. I also made today’s dessert while I was in there: floating islands, poached French meringue atop crème anglaise, drizzled with caramel which immediately hardens and crisps appealingly.

Chef Somchet, who has returned from her class (turns out she was taking vegetable and fruit carving), suggested we make the dessert components before getting going on the pasta. So I assembled the crème anglaise, and then I made the meringue and figured out how to shape quenelles for poaching. Unfortunately, this didn’t leave me quite enough time for all the resting and drying required for the pasta if I wanted to avoid gunking up the pasta machine with wet dough. I ended up relying on one classmate to make some extra dough when I didn’t have enough, and another to help me with cutting so we could get it done in time for service. I had hoped to have enough time left to assemble the pasta sauce, but it clearly wasn’t going to be possible. I realized later that I’d basically run my ass off in the pastry kitchen, but I had been so involved in the moment that I’d lost track of time and not noticed how hard I’d made things on myself. I need to get better at both keeping an eye on the clock and assessing how long and in what sequence tasks should be accomplished.

One of my classmates had her husband and a coworker/friend of his over for lunch today. I hadn’t realized we could bring people in our personal life into the school like that, but I suppose for our hefty tuition payments we should be able to have a guest or two come by.

After lunch and break, we spent the afternoon starting prep for Monday’s golf tournament. L’academie raises scholarship funds through its annual Duck Press golf tournament, at which the students prepare and serve food. I trimmed about 8 flank steaks of their excess fat and silvery skin. We report at 8am on Sunday to finish up with all the prep.

Sunday, August 4

Today was dedicated exclusively to prep for the golf tournament, so there was no demo, we didn’t learn any new recipes, and we didn’t cook a lunch service. Chef Peter had detailed prep lists and set about assigning tasks once 8am rolled around. I started off with Brett, who worked with me to make a marinade for the flank steaks we trimmed Friday. The marinade included grated ginger, sliced shallots, chopped garlic, soy sauce, marsala wine, balsamic vinegar, sesame oil, and worcestershire sauce. We made about 8 quarts of the stuff and then got the steaks soaked down and back in the walk-in.

I then helped other students with whatever random jobs I could find (wrapping and labeling deli cups of sauces, and so on) until Chef Peter started looking for folks to make us some breakfast. I worked with Kristin on peeling and cutting some potatoes, and then she made home fries while I set myself up to make scrambled eggs. George suggested I crack the eggs into a china cap (large-hole chinois) set in a bucket so I wouldn’t have to worry about eggshells in the finished product. I’ve never used a china cap before, and it did work well but it took some time to work the egg through the holes. I’m fortunate I didn’t have to clean the tool when I finished with it, because it looked like it was pretty hard to clean properly. I added milk, cream, and some ham to the eggs and scrambled them in a couple saute pans. Kristin came over and added some cheese right before service. We turned the potatoes and eggs into some hotel pans, and everybody lined up and chowed down at 10:30am. I’ve never made scrambled eggs for more than a dozen people before, but it’s exactly the same as for one or two. I didn’t do them the French way (over a bain-marie) or the way I usually do them (over extremely low heat, which takes a good 40 minutes) but instead over moderate heat so they’re done in about 10 minutes. I heard no complaints.

After breakfast we cleaned up and then I spent the late morning and early afternoon organizing the walk-in for packing out tomorrow and seasoning and packing up the millions of grilled vegetable slices other students were cooking. We finished at 12:30 and all went home. It was a surprisingly quiet day in the kitchen. I think everybody was tired and a little sullen about having to come in on a Sunday. Nobody had skipped out, but nobody seemed happy about their presence either…not even Chef Peter.

[Fat Guy]

Thanks for your report. I was dimly aware of the federal funding situation but didn't know the details. I'd be interested to hear any more you have.

[Malawry]

I just flipped through my student handbook, and I found plenty of information about student probation and also some information about Federal loans. But I didn't see anything about what happens to the loans for a student on probation. I imagine there's something in the documentation I signed for my loans on the subject, though.

[cabrales]

Malawry -- If you are comfortable discussing it and without mentioning the specific classmates who may be implicated, were some students anxious after the exit of their peer? Is a 75 average relatively difficult to fall below?

[southern girl]

Rochelle, I don't know if you want to go into detail about your former fellow student, but , I am curious whether he did not perform his assignments? Was inept in performing the in class tasks? Failed the test written test? Had absences? Or a combination of all of the above.

[Malawry]

I don't know if this student turned in his notebook on time, nor do I know his scores on the practical or the written exams or his classroom participation grade. I do know he periodically reported without parts of his uniform (especially his neckerchief), he didn't communicate with his team members when preparing for lunch service, and he repeatedly made mistakes (beyond the occasional deglazing with gastric, that is). I don't think he was a borderline case, from what evidence I have.

I know that some students struggle with organizing their notebooks, or don't perform well on written tests, or are somewhat behind the curve in the kitchen. A student on probation is a student who falls behind on more than one or two of the skill sets needed to maintain a satisfactory grade. Apparently, the student in question was in this category. I will say that he didn't look too engaged in what was going on or act like he cared much about the impact of that attitude on his teammates.

I don't think the school gave him a kiss-off or anything. We took those math and writing tests in the first week mostly so the school could identify students who might need extra help with those things, and Chef Peter told us that if we needed extra time for our practical and written tests and could explain our reasoning, he'd give it to us. If the student who left had asked for extra help, I believe he would have been accommodated.

I have not heard any anxiety from any of the remaining 16 as a result of the departure of the 17th student. To the contrary, I heard mostly relief...especially from those who had been teamed with him multiple times. As long as you generally adhere to school policies, complete the assignments, and act like you care, you'll probably do better than a 75 average on your grade. Everybody else seems to be fine.

[southern girl]

It's good to hear the instructors do offer help if a student needs it and that they don't boot anyone without good cause.

Thank you for your in depth answers and, of course, great diary entries

[Jinmyo]

Rochelle, I'm interested in the marinade for the flank steak. It seems quite acidic and seems to have only some sesame oil. Acids will break down the surface proteins and make it slushy, without penetrating to the interior so basically a marinade doesn't really tenderize. Oils help the flavours to pervade, and flavouring is the real point. Let us know how the steaks turn out, please.

[mamster]

Malawry, I have no issues with meat in general, but I don't really get pork tenderloin either. It's the leanest, tenderest part of an already too-lean, too-tender pig. I guess it's one of those foods that serves as a "background for improvisation" or something.

[Steve Klc]

Rochelle--did you investigate what the student withdrawl or separation process was--especially with respect to refunds of tuition already paid--before you decided to enroll? I wonder what the student handbook says--or any legally binding contracts--in terms of percent refunded versus number of weeks into the program? Usually schools, especially state certified schools, have to maintain certain standards and make all this public.

Booting a student must definitely be an act of last resort. There's no adding students mid-term. And I bet this student is now off the hook for 85% of his future tuition commitment. A serious loss for the school but something which may come back to help the remaining students--a better instructor to student ratio and more personal attention.

And as far as an instructor paying extra attention to the students worst-prepared going in or worst-performing while there--it's a constant battle.

[Malawry]

As legally required, L'academie has a published separation/tuition refund policy outlined in its handbook. The student who left was refunded 70 to 80 percent of his tuition by these guidelines (I'm not sure what constitutes 20% of the program in terms of number of school days). I read the whole student handbook after I was accepted and before I sent in my deposit.

Jinmyo, I'll report back about the flank steak. There's so much of it going to the golf course, I'm sure I'll be able to scam a bite. It's only about 10% sesame oil.

Mamster, I'm relieved that I'm not the only one who dislikes pork tenderloin. It's just...not...good.

[oraklet]

malawry, it is a pleasure to follow your reports here on egullet.

i have a question about pasta-dough. you write that

"Unfortunately, this didn’t leave me quite enough time for all the resting and drying required for the pasta if I wanted to avoid gunking up the pasta machine with wet dough."

this gives me the impression that the dough is rather more wet than i would prefer to make it. why the wetness?

[Steve Klc]

Rochelle--there's a photo of the Julia Child culinary team in the Washington Post's "Out & About" Style section--on page C3--have you seen it yet?

The photo isn't online, but the write-up of the event is:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/artic...2-2002Aug5.html

[KateW]

I don't like pork either, unless it's stir-fried and doused in lots of flavor ;)

If it's not a lot to ask, do you think you could add some personal feelings into your entries about how things are going at school? Just "I am really enjoying it here" or "I am starting to doubt myself"...

Just a suggestion.

[Malawry]

Yes, Steve, that is me. I'll try to scan in the picture later. It's pretty amusing to me that I'm listed as "staff" as though I was an employee at Poste.

Pasta dough as taught at L'academie is somewhat soft and not exactly sticky, but perhaps a little bit tacky when you've finished making it but not yet started working it. The technique we have learned has the damp dough rest for about 15 minutes to relax the gluten. Then we press it a little with flour and start running it through the machine on the largest setting, dusting with flour and folding in thirds and pressing it together in between. After 5 or 6 runs it gets much smoother and less sticky, and the color changes. Then we run it through in progressively smaller settings until it's at the smallest setting. Let the sheets rest for 15 minutes until they have a slightly papery feel and then run them through the cutters or use for lasagna/ravioli/whatnot. This results in a tender, smooth, uniform noodle with just enough bite to it.

Kate, I feel great about how things are going at school. I'm quite focused on school as a day-to-day project, though, and don't spend much time reflecting on my emotions about the experience. My emotions vary from panic to self-amazement to excitement to insecurity to fist-pumping self-promotion, sometimes in a very short time period. You can always ask me direct questions about my emotions around specific events, and I will do my best to respond.

The flank steak had a nice flavor, but was toughened a little by the marinade. It certainly wasn't bad but it wasn't as soft as medium-rare meat normally is.

Edit disclosure: forgot to add flank steak update.

[Malawry]

The photo is online, actually: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/style...2-2002Aug5.html

I'm second from left. Classmate Kristin is fifth from left, and Amy is on the far right.

[cabrales]

The menu for the dinner . . . . I’d met Ris before (I trailed at 1789 a few months ago); she talked with us a lot about ways to get access to Julia herself when she comes to DC for celebrations later this month.

Malawry -- How many diners were served during the Childs celebration dinner? Were some of the auctioned items special meals at participating restaurants, etc.?

In addition, did you happen to learn about Childs celebration events that are planned for New York? Any input from other members would also be appreciated.

[Malawry]

I'm not sure on the number of covers at the dinner. I'm terrible at guessing numbers of people. I think it was in the vicinity of 200 people, but I can't be sure.

Auctioned items:

3 recreational classes at L'academie (this was the most popular and competitive bid)

A set of All-Clad cookware, four pots/pans with lids

A three-piece set of a new knife Wusthof just introduced

A multi-item hot beverage kit, including a tea infuser and other random items

Eight small "Julia's 90th" plaques...the top 8 bidders got one each

One poster-sized "Julia's 90th" plaque

A Julia Child statuette, done in a pop-art-y style (not an actual representation, but it sorta looked like her and was created by the artist in her honor)

A set of Julia Child plates made by Lenox. They were cute, they had whisks

around the edge and looked kind of art deco-like.

I think that's it.

I did not learn about NY events, alas. Is she even coming to NY when she comes to DC? I think her DC visit mostly has to do with her kitchen, which she donated to the Smithsonian Institution. (Rachel Perlow discussed it somewhere around here when she and Jason visited late last winter.) The centerpiece event while Julia is here is a big dinner at the Smithsonian museum, which will have huge numbers of chefs each serving a small dish of some type. L'academie will be there, but I will not since I didn't get chosen (all the students in my class wanted to assist, so we drew straws to see who would get to go).

[Fat Guy]

When I clicked on that link the first thing that came up was this photo of two Playmates. So I looked second from the left and said, "Woah!"

Your photo is nice too, though.

[cabrales]

The centerpiece event while Julia is here is a big dinner at the Smithsonian museum, which will have huge numbers of chefs each serving a small dish of some type.

Malawry -- When you have a chance, could you consider discussing when the dinner will be, and what the cost of participation might be (particularly if it is on a Saturday evening)?

[cabrales]

Below is a link to a description of certain Childs-related events:

http://www.aiwf.org/national/index.asp?chapter=1

Planned activities include (I assume the AIWF would not mind the relatively large amount of text copied/excerpted, in the interests of promoting the Childs festivities; see the above site for additional details; attendance may be limited and require pre-booking):

Sunday, August 18

• Tour of Dupont Circle’s FRESHFARM Markets.

• **Brunch at Gabriel restaurant** . . . . 12:30 p.m. to 3 00 p m.

• Opening of the exhibition Bon Appetit! Julia Child’s Kitchen at the Smithsonian at the National Museum of American History, Behring Center, at 7:00 p. m. **Sample the foods of National Capital Area Chapter chefs** . . . National Museum of American History, 14th and Constitution Avenue, NW, Washington, DC, 7:00p.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Monday, August 19

• Birthday celebration dinner at 6: 30 p. m. at **1789 restaurant**. . . . 1789, 1226 36th Street, NW, Georgetown, 6:30 p. m. to 9:30 p. m.

Tuesday, August 20

• Sur La Table, at Pentagon Row, for a book signing of the fortieth anniversary edition of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1., with Julia Child. . . . Arlington, VA, 10:30 am to noon. Call 703-414-3580 for more information.

• BIRTHDAY PARTY at the **Four Seasons Hotel** at 6: 30 p. m. with simply the best summer food, including cheeseburgers, 6: 30 p. m. to 9: 30 p. m.