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2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:

Tight at first and a bit angry but it opens beautifully with air to become supple, layered and long. Served to a friend who had never had it before and she was very enthusiastic – me too. Delicious today and many tomorrows . . .

1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir

Complex, character driven, individual, ripe, mostly red fruit and with excellent length; just coming into its own and that is a very good place. Also needed a little air to open up.

2000 Christoffel, Ürziger Würzgarten, Riesling Kabinett (06 01):

Served with spicy food, this is excellent counter-point; not too sweet, plenty of fruit and a nice underlying minerality. Not a world record wine but fun and good accompaniment.

2005 Elyse, Rosé:

12.9% alcohol, bone dry, full flavored and slightly stony; what more can one ask of pink wine?

1999 Bizot, Echezeaux (375 ml):

Allspice and sauvage elements on the nose with solid, Burgundian pinot aromas; flavors follow the nose with layers and good integration, not especially fleshy but plenty of concentration and good balance; medium length finish. ‘Shows its pedigree but needs some more cellar time.

2004 Descendientes de Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos:

This wine is starting to close down as it shows lots of tannin and little fruit for the first hour its open; thereafter, it starts to balance out but never comes back to full song, which, is where it was only three months ago. Hold.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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