Corso 98

[Rosie]

We had a scrumptious dinner last night at Corso 98, 98 Walnut St., Montclair. This establishment is a cut above the traditional Italian restaurant that we usually dine at and the food and service are always excellent. When seated bruschetta topped with finely diced cooked eggplant, onion, zucchini and tomato were placed on the table along with crusty addictive Italian bread. Specials written out with their prices were given to us along with the menu. For apps we had rock shrimp risotto cake surrounded by an oven roasted tomato cream sauce and mozzarella en carozza. Entrees were roast suckling pig with rosemary roasted potatoes and a balsamic sauce; roasted salmon with mashed potatoes and a vegetable and soft shell crabs. The crabs were sauteed and served with a lemon garlic sauce and sat on a vegetable spaghetti and greens. All of the dishes were winners. For dessert we had some biscotti and a very interesting homemade peach pie made with basil. The basil created a hot taste in your mouth. Coffee was very good. Chef Dino is to be commended for always creating delicious dishes.We always have a wonderful time at this restaurant. BYO.  973-746-0789

This is a more detailed review that I wrote last year on Corso 98.

Weary of unimaginative Italian food? Then try Corso 98, a terrific, delightfully different BYO restaurant with seldom seen menu items. It was no surprise to discover that Chef Corradino Suriano and his brother Elio were originally from Abruzzo, as this area east of Rome on the Adriatic Sea is known to produce many high caliber professional chefs. After only one dinner here, I wanted to kidnap the chef or his "mama" to bring home to cook for me.  

We passed Corso 98 very early one Sunday evening and since it looked so charming we decided to try it. Although they weren’t open, David a waiter gave us the "cooks tour" introducing us to the staff and to "mama" who makes all of the pastas. "Mama" gave us a plate of cookies and asked us to return in a half-hour. Who could turn down a request like that?  

This restaurant was lovely with one exposed brick wall while the others were painted pea green with white woodwork. Antique padded chairs and fresh flowers on crisp white tablecloths along with Italian music in the background provided a lovely ambiance.  

The staff was friendly and willing to please but did not recite the specials with their prices. Service was attentive without being obtrusive.  

It was delightful to find menu selections that had some unique twists. Bruschetta, which usually comes with tomatoes and onions, was served here with an unusual topping of finely diced cooked eggplant, onion, zucchini and tomato. When we saw roast suckling pig and chitarra, a pasta, as well as an appetizer called warm goat cheese and fried green tomatoes we knew that we were about to have an Epicurean experience.  

APPETIZERS:  A combination of field greens, grilled pears, chopped tomatoes, hazelnuts and gorgonzola cheese with a balsamic dressing produced an excellent salad. Pan roasted Prince Edward Island mussels swimming in a Pinot Grigio butter sauce, roasted garlic cloves and Roma tomatoes were so good that we fought over the last shell. A dollop of mascarpone cheese floated atop of a smooth white bean Tuscan soup with flecks of beans to give it textural contrast. This not often seen potage was very tasty but avoid it if you don’t like rosemary. Don’t hesitate to share the Antipasti Corso 98 containing mozzarella, roasted peppers, family cured prosciutto and marinated artichoke hearts. Scattered on the platter were the sweetest pieces of caramelized garlic I have ever tasted produced by slow roasting. A crisp, not to be missed rock shrimp risotto cake was surrounded by an oven roasted tomato cream sauce that we finished up with our spoons.  

ENTREES:  Kudos to the chef who serves his marvelous veal osso buco with a small fork to excavate the marrow. Presented with creamy polenta, wilted spinach, crispy artichokes and oven roasted tomatoes this was a "must try" entrée. Pan roasted breast of duck with honey balsamic essence surrounding a savory bread pudding, caramelized roasted apples and wilted spinach was also outstanding and served rare as requested.  

Be sure to try one of "Mama’s" pastas. I especially loved the chitarra alla mama. Chitarra literally means guitar style and is a stringed instrument that cuts the dough into a four-sided shaped pasta that looks like a thick linguini. The version I tried combined rock shrimp, mussels, fennel, chopped plum tomatoes and chopped garlic in a scrumptious garlic broth. On other visits a vegetarian option was offered. If the restaurant is not busy ask Elio to show you this ingenious tool.  

Lamb is the most popular meat of Abruzzo and the giant ravioli stuffed with a ragu lamb, pecorino cheese and caramelized onions was so flavorful that I wanted to call my travel agent and plan a trip to Italy. Doused with a rosemary, garlic, butter, and truffle oil sauce this was an innovative entrée with earthy flavors. Crispy onion rings crowned a beautifully presented tender grilled rack of lamb surrounded with a Brunello wine sauce and broccoli rabe. The upright Frenched bones were interlocked and anchored in delectable garlic infused whipped white beans.  

Prime Angus sirloin steak simply grilled with a vegetable and potato blazed no new trails but was a tasty well executed dish for those in the mood for beef. At the other end of the spectrum was a complex dish offered as a special. A hunter's casserole containing quail, duck, guinea fowl, lamb, fresh artichoke hearts, wild mushrooms, pasta, zucchini, carrots and potatoes with a stock containing juniper berries, thyme, wine and herbs was a "knock your socks off" offering. It showed off the chef's talent of pairing flavors and textures to produce a sensational dish.  

Many of the options at Corso 98 demonstrated the fact that this was not your usual spaghetti and red sauce Italian restaurant. For example, I have only seen roasted suckling pig at Spanish restaurants. Here it was served with braised escarole, rosemary roasted potatoes and a sauce made from the reduced natural juices of the pig and balsamic vinegar producing a memorable entrée.  

For those wishing a simple light dinner try the sea bass, breast of chicken or prawns served atop of a field green and chopped tomato salad dressed with virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It’s not fancy but will fill the bill if you want an uncomplicated, straightforward dish.  

DESSERT:  A caramelized pear perched on puff pastry with mascarpone cheese, chocolate sauce and pieces of pecan brittle was fabulous. Sometimes the peanut brittle is for the taking at the front desk so if you don’t have any with your dessert take a piece to munch on when you leave. I was also enamored with the homemade biscotti which was delicious dipped into cappuccino. Crème brulee, ice cream, sorbets, sour cream cheese cake with raspberry sauce, a blonde brownie and regular brownie with vanilla ice cream and tira misu have been available on different visits.  

Rosalie Saferstein

February 7, 2000

[Rosie]

We returned to Corso 98 again last night (9/7) and had a great meal. Apps were warm goat cheese with fried tomatoes and sauteed cloves of garlic; a fresh peach soup and grilled octopus over greens. Entrees were a fabulous sesame crusted tuna; pistachio coated chicken breast with escarole; shrimp with pancetta, polenta and grilled vegetables and a grilled shrimp and vegetable dish. Biscotti for dessert. Chef Dino doesn't miss a beat and always produces great tasting food.

[Rail Paul]

We stopped by Corso 98 tonight after viewing the devastation at WTC from the heights below Eagle Rock. The reflection of the sun off the surviving WFC structures made a ghostly appearance against the swirling column of smoke.

As usual, good meal. Arugula with shaved parmigiano reggiano, tangerine slices, and slivers of garlic. Feathery gnocchi in a light raw tomato sauce. Mozzarella in carrozzo in a marinara (chunks of shrimp, mussel pieces, some calamari) sauce. Lamb chops with mashed potatoes in a (?) port wine reduction.  Damage for the whole deal was โ, all in.

Montclair was buttoned tight. DejaVu closed (Tuesday, as usual). Blue Sky closed (sorry sign). Liberte closed due to the national tragedy. Palazzo was empty, I didn't care for their menu items. Didn't feel like walking up to 28/Taro.

[Rosie]

Palazzo is no different than any other Italian restaurant.I never liked Taro and haven't been to 28 in a long time.

[Hank]

About a year ago I reported on the NJ Food Forum how unhappy I had been at this restaurant. My wife and I went back about a month ago (a Tuesday evening) and once again we were disappointed. I have just read David Corcoran's review in todays NY Times and could not agree more. I realize that Rosie has written some very nice things about Corso 98 and her last post about this rest. made us go back but unfortunately there is nothing that justifies my driving 45 minutes to go there. This last time (and I mean it) my wife's shrimp were very cold. She sent them back and were returned so well done they had the consistency of card board. Rather than make a fuss she just left most of them on her plate. My veal chop (as Mr. Corcoran's) was very tough. I ate less than a third and yet no one bothered to ask us what was wrong with all the food going back uneaten. The rest. was less than half full the entire time we were there so the staff and owner were not that stressed not to notice. On leaving the rest. we did not even receive a "good night" from the owner who was sitting at his desk right by the door. Sorry to say this again (you Jerseyites will once again jump all over me for this) but this is just another of so many very ordinary Jersey rest. With the exception of a few and a couple of very good ethnic rest. I will only go to NY.

Edit by RPerlow: Here is a link to the NYT review.

Edited February 16, 2003 by RPerlow (log)

[Rail Paul]

I'm sorry you didn't enjoy your meal at Corso 98. Some times it's sublime, somteimes it isn't.

In my experience, I'd rate Corso in the top 1/2 of Montclair area places. Good, but not great. I've praised it, and knocked it, from time to time.

I'd place DejaVu, Blue Sky, 28 and Liberte above it. 77 Walnut,  Joseph's and Taro at about the same, Palazzo, Corunatto, and Epernay below it. The now closed Baladi would be higher.

FWIW, I usually try to engage the server in a discussion of what the chef likes to prepare, any unusual combinations, etc. (Drives my wife crazy, but I think it creates an expectation that the server has an end of the bargain to deliver quality from the kitchen)

[glenn]

I agree with Hank about people being defensive about places they've come to think highly of here [and I'm sorry to use this thread to further discuss my experience at another forum favorite.]

I ate at Corso in the early evening last New Year's eve.  We were the first customers I think.  I don't remember all the details, but I do recall being disappointed, especially by the service (considering the place was practically empty at the time).

As for another beloved Montclair joint on this forum, Blue Sky, my post 2 weeks ago was all but ignored [except by you Rail, who came to their defense] about my unpleasant brunch.  I'm still reeling, not so much from my meal, but from the extremely unpleasant email exchange I had with Sherri, the GM.  The fact is they included an 18% gratuity for all patrons for any size party and didn't post a notice.  Sherri was completely defensive and unapologetic about this policy (though she said it just changed).  Her argument -- which made no sense to me -- was that she needed to guarantee the waiters the tips in order to get them to work Sunday, and they did plenty of work to justify the tip.  However, such work at least partly consists of non-service related work that would normally be the restaurant's responsibility to provide compensation.  So now they've just raised the price for the meal saying it inlcudes tip and gratuity and saved themselves some  money by making the customer pay the waiters' wages. The only service we saw being offered was coffee and OJ refills, which they failed miserably at with us.  She also claims they have a jazz band on Sunday, but there was none when we were there.   My other comments to Sherri about the service were completely made light of.  She was unapologetic (saying I'm sorry once or twice and going on to be defensive doesn't count!).  

Before my email exchange with Sherri, I still intended to check out this place for dinner -- judging by all the good reviews, I'm sure I'd have a better experience than brunch.  But that email exchange is enough to keep me away from there 24/7.

[the latest and greatest place in Jersey City is the Grand Banks Cafe on Montgomery Street near the water.  Billed as a Japanese/French fusion joint, they specialize in sushi & fish, but have huge offerings of dishes from both cultures.  Not usually a biggie on fishes and the like, last night I absolutely loved the Japanese sea bass and shrimp tempura.  A gorgeous looking place with exemplary service.]

[Rosie]

I am in Florida right now and won't have a chance to read the review till late tonight or tomorrow. When I write about a restaurant I write about my experiences there. I have always had very good dinners at Corso 98 and have found the staff to be very friendly. I have also gone to restaurants that people have raved about and have found them disappointing. I may have more to post after reading David's review. He wrote about his experiences there which from what I am reading here were not the same as mine.

[MsSumida]

As for another beloved Montclair joint on this forum, Blue Sky, my post 2 weeks ago was all but ignored [except by you Rail, who came to their defense] about my unpleasant brunch.  I'm still reeling, not so much from my meal, but from the extremely unpleasant email exchange I had with Sherri, the GM.  The fact is they included an 18% gratuity for all patrons for any size party and didn't post a notice.  Sherri was completely defensive and unapologetic about this policy (though she said it just changed).  

Interesting how the automatic 18% gratuity is brought up again.  On Oct. 5 Judy Ep wrote about the same problem.  If I remember correctly at that time Sherri (GM) sad it was a computer error.  Obviously it's not.  

I just wonder how many people 'double tipped', not realizing the gratuity was already in the bill.  

With all the restaurants in the area, this is one that won't see my business, as they seem to not have a handle or really care about their customer.  

[Rosie]

When Judy was at Blue Sky a tip was put on the bill by mistake because the waitress put in the wrong # of people at the table on the computer. 18 % is added for parties of 8 or more. The waitress appologized and offered to reprint the bill. The patrons did not want the bill reprinted. It was an honest mistake which happens. Glen was correct in that an 18% tip was added to the brunch bill and there was no sign indicating that this was the policy. There is suppose  to be a sign posted now at Blue Sky. The waiters fill juice glasses, coffee cups and bring waffles and omelets from the kitchen. If you are not willing to give an 18% tip for brunch then you should not go to this restaurant.

[Rail Paul]

...rail came to their defense...

In fairness, I didn't come to their defense. I observed the owner posted her reply to the "error in accidentally" posting an 18% tip, and that I've enjoyed eating there in the past.  I did not attack or discredit your experience or challenge your report.

Years ago, on an AOL food board, I was ripped up when I  described my poor experience at Il Mondo Vecchio in Madison, which was regarded by some as a great place. "Peasant, slob, heathen, etc" by people who were regulars and couldn't imagine such things in THEIR restaurant. It had stars from several papers.

Well, exactly the same thing happened to the Star Ledger's reviewer on her two trips, and she reported it. I understand the owner (Mr Cetrullo) opened up new apertures for his employees, and the restaurant won its stars the following year. His newer places also have a consistent eye to detail which may have been lacking in the early days of IMV.

Mr Cochran posted his criteria in reviewing restaurants (how many visits, how many dishes, how detailed the service, etc) on this board a while back. I've found his reviews ring true, so I'd certainly expect the experience he reported was the one he had.

[glenn]

Rail, didn't mean to put you on the spot, sorry.  Actually, I'm sorry I brought it up again.  End of discussion about my brunch and it was rude of me to interrupt the thread, sorry -  back to the Corso discourse -- I really didn't think the Times review was all that bad.

sorry glenn

[Rosie]

I just read the review and I thought it was basically very good also. Some thoughts. David ate there on two Saturday nights. I would have liked to have read his opinion of the restaurant if he also ate there during the week. It is important IMHO when reviewing a restaurant to dine there during the week AND on a Sat.Sometimes Sat. nights are zooey and if someone calls in sick everything is off. Also, unfortunately David did not taste the chittara which "mama" makes. This homemade pasta is made on a stringed instrument. I love it.  I enjoyed reading the review and I think David is a fabulous reviewer.

[Hans]

Rosie, I don't care what night of the week you go to a restaurant, you expect good food for your good money. Hank said the shrimp were cold and had to be returned and came back like card board. I'll bet that they reheated them and thereby overcooked them instead of preparing a fresh batch. You can reheat certain foods but certainly not shrimp. For that reason alone I would never go there.

[Rosie]

You are correct about wanting good food for your good money. But if you are reviewing a restaurant the ideal would be to go during the week and on a weekend as you may experience two different dining experiences.

Where do you like to dine?

[Hank]

Rosie, I am glad that Hans picked up on the shrimp but I am disappointed that you choose to ignore that part of my original post and mention again about Corcoran's having gone there on weekends. I wrote about a very unpleasant experience on a weekday evening and that should be the bottom line. Corso 98 is not a simple diner and reheating returned cold dishes is a NO-NO, no matter what night of the week it is. And let's not forget the tough as nails veal chop that went back hardly touched without a word said from the staff. (That was not a cheap dish.) Some comments please, from a very competent and experienced reviewer about the real problems with this restaurant.

[Rosie]

No one should have an unpleasant experience whether it is during the week or a weekday. The shrimp dish should have been replaced. Veal chops are expensive and should not be tough. You are correct. However, you wrote about your experience there and I wrote about mine. You shouldn't go to Corso 98 again.

[Carlotta]

I don't understand Rosie, why are you so adament about defending a restaurant, that has on more than one occasion be less than above board about their policies or poor execution of food presentation, and then basically tell posters to go somewhere else if they don't like it?

Are you a reviewer, who maintains an impartial view, or a spokesman for the few retaurants that you often frequent and are known at?

When you go to Blue Sky or Corso 98 frequently (as you have posted), and are known to the staff and owners as having a web site that can help the business you go to, aren't you crossing a line?  You realize your known at those places, simply by the amount of time and meals you've eaten there, yet you defend them to the hilt for their obvious shortcomings. It's one way or the other, and I'm not sure which it is anymore.

Hans, Hank, and Rail are right.  With the cost of going out nowadays, there is no excuse for bad service, poorly presented food, or a check with an unknown gratuity added.  

There is nothing wrong with alerting management to the problem, but sticking up for the poor atitudes of management and bad service is inexcusable.

[Jason Perlow]

Carlotta:

Rosie is not a reviewer -- she's a food and restaurant news writer, although she has done reviews from time to time.

So it should be noted that what she says in eGullet is her own personal opinion, and is not representative of any journal she writes for.

In the context of the type of things Rosie writes, I dont see this as crossing the line.

[glenn]

Hi Carlotta,

I can understand your concerns, but in Rosie's defense, she went way out of her way - in my case - and acted as an intermediary between Blue Sky and me.  It's unfortunate that her efforts weren't fruitful.   As Jason said, her primary function here is not as a reviewer but, at least the way I see it, to promote discussion.

[Rosie]

Thank you Jason and Glenn. Carlotta--when I write about a restaurant I write about MY experiences and MY opinions just as Glenn and you and Hank and every poster writes about their experiences/opinions.I am not reviewing the restaurant. I am the moderator here. If Glenn writes a rave review of a restaurant and you go there and don't like it is he being biased?

I can't give you an answer for why someone had a bad experience. Sometimes restaurants have off nights. It could have been that the cook called in sick or the dishwasher didn't show up. Or the supplier could have unloaded a tough piece of meat on the chef. There are hundreds of reasons why things can go wrong and a customer leaves unhappy.I didn't stick up for anyone  but said if you are unhappy with a restaurant you shouldn't go there.

[Rosie]

Bruschetta topped with diced cooked eggplant, onion, zucchini and tomato mixture and warm bread was the beginning of a very good dinner that we had at Corso 98, 98 Walnut St, Montclair. That was followed by fresh mozzarella, some pieces rolled in pesto, served with tomatoes and drizzled with olive oil. Chef Dino just finished making the mozzarella and it was still warm. Entrees were rack of lamb, their rib bones intertwined, sitting on mashed potatoes and served with a roasted shallot bulb and brunello wine sauce. My roasted salmon came with wilted spinach, roasted peppers, pancetta and grilled fennel. Instead of mashed potatoes my request for soft polenta was graciously fulfilled. For dessert we shared an apple torta with Applegate vanilla ice cream. Chef Dino also had some interesting specials: cured salmon layered over a bed of field greens accompanied with a fried wonton and fruits; crispy duck salad with a muscato grape sauce; chitarra with bolognese sauce; wild boar stew; and pistachio encrusted breast of chicken over wilted escarole and beans. This BYO restaurant gets busy on weekends so be sure to call for a reservation. Phone: 973-746-0789.

Let us know where you dined this weekend. Start a new topic so each restaurant has a listing.

[Rosie]

I returned to Corso 98, 98 Walnut Street, Montclair recently and as always had a very good dinner. Started off with bruschetta topped with diced cooked eggplant, onion, zucchini and tomato mixture and warm bread that I dipped into olive oil. Appetizer was a half order of chitarra (homemade thick linguini) with a Bolognese sauce and a friend had an asparagus soup. Chef Dino makes this soup without cream and it is fantastic. We were told to try his peach soup next time. Entrees were perfectly cooked black and white sesame encrusted tuna over an Asian slaw and soft shell crabs over greens. The crabs were listed as an appetizer special and the kitchen was accommodated our request for an entrée size portion. We shared what was listed as a peach tart which was actually fresh peaches ensconced in pastry No matter what it was called it was very good especially with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. BYO. Phone: 973-746-0789

[Capri]

Thank you for reminding me, Rosie! After a co-worker recommended this restaurant, we went for the first time this past winter and really enjoyed it! I can't say that I remember exactly what we had, but I'm sure it was fish! We sat in the back area where it was cozy and quiet. The service was also very good and we enjoyed the BYO aspect. I guess since the restaurant is off the main street, it is easily forgotten.

[Rosie]

Dinner last night was at Corso 98, 98 Walnut St, Montclair. They were participating in the "Dine Out For Hunger" program to raise money for the NJ Community Food Bank. When seated we were brought bruschetta topped with a diced cooked eggplant, onion, zucchini and tomato mixture and warm crusty bread. For apps we shared pan roasted Prince Edward Island mussels with a Pinot Grigio butter sauce, roasted garlic and tomatoes; a field green salad with gorgonzola, grilled pears and toasted hazelnuts; and homemade pasta (chitarra with bolognese sauce) which was fabulous. For entrees we had the roast suckling pig with broccoli rabe and roasted potatoes; a "don't miss" veal osso buco with creamy polenta, wilted spinach, artichokes and oven roasted tomatoes; and pistachio chicken. I don't know where we found room for dessert but we managed to devour a tira misu and key lime pie. BYO. Phone: 973-746-0789.