Morimoto in Phila vs NYC

[Sneakeater]

It's funny, but for all the defense of Starr on this and other recent topics, I haven't read too many ringing endorsements of the restaurants other than some people having some good meals at some of them and explanations as to why they are successful.

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That's a good point Doc, and as one of Starr's "defenders" (he doesn't need my help, really...) I have hedged a bit mostly because I could see how people could end up with so-so meals at many of the places.

I however will unequivocally say that I have had fantastic meals at Morimoto, Tangerine, Blue Angel, Alma de Cuba, El Vez, Pod and Striped Bass (under Christopher Lee). No caveats, not just a couple of good things here or there, or not good considering the group, or pretty decent for Philly. No reservations about the endorsement: all-out really terrific meals. I've had plenty of good dishes at some other spots. So at least in my experience, it's entirely possible to have a really satisfying meal purely from the cuisine side, even if you were blindfolded and earplugged...

Now, how this will translate to NY - we'll just have to wait and see. He has very good chefs working at both places in NY. He had very talented chefs consulting on Buddakan NY. Whether that talent makes it to the plate, or gets lost in the crush of such big, scenster places, again, we'll see. But it absolutely has been my experience that in Philly, sometimes that kitchen talent does shine through the moody lighting.

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Notice I didn't say any ringing endordements!

Throughout this discussion, I haven't been out to trash Starr or his restaurants. My experience with them is simply too limited. There is also nothing wrong with a restaurant being set up for people to relax, enjoy themselves and feel like they are having a special time. All the best restaurants do that. There is also nothing wrong with restaurants making a profit I wish more of my favorites would

I guess one reason that I am not all that excited about these restaurants is because I see them as personifications of the Disneyization of culture. (How's that for a new word - Disneyization? ) I'd rather have restaurants with individual character than cookie-cutter formulae, especially formulae that tend to homogenize and sugar-coat culture. Now maybe I am all wrong about these restaurants whether they are in philly or NYC. I hope so and if I am I will happily change my tune about them.

The fact that the names Morimoto and Buddakan will not have changed even though the interiors of the restaurants and the food itself may be different is significant to me. It is a bit too calculated and cold for my taste. If they are indeed sufficiently different restaurants and concepts they should be labeled accordingly. Perhaps I am being a bit too naive or even a bit too idealistic here (ironic for a NYer ), but my time and my dollars only go so far and I prefer to spend them in and on places with more direct appeal to me.

Ironically as well, I think a lot of my cynicism (ok, which is it idealism or cynicism? What can I say, I grew up in Brooklyn ) also stems from the fact that I have also been pretty disappointed with Nobu in NY.

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I would like to adopt every word of this post (except that I wasn't lucky enough to grow up in Brooklyn; I only moved there as an adult).

[Sneakeater]

And -- not that it should matter to you (because none of us is trying to tell you or anyone else what to enjoy or how to have a good time) -- the fact that the canned fantasies that are being sold are camp rather than kitschy doesn't make it any more palatable to the people who object to that sort of thing.

Edited February 1, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[docsconz]

Having seen the interim posts between the time I started this reply and now, I understand the part about nomenclature getting under your skin.  Thomas Keller didn't call his New York restaurant "The French Laundry," so Starr giving the same name to his New York and Philly outposts smacks of chainitis.  I'll bet you also cringe whenever you hear someone use the word "branding."

But I will use it here anyway, for that is exactly what Starr is doing here.  Morimoto NYC and Morimoto Philly may be two different animals in many respects, but both are trading off the reputation of the "brand" Masaharu Morimoto. 

No doubt you are right about this and you are also right this is one of the things I find very unappealing when it comes to restaurants. I think the "Starr" brand ought to be sufficient and that ideally quality restaurants should have their own personalities and these personalities should be reflected in a name. The concept that really bothers me is that I can go from city to city (it doesn't really matter which cities) and have very comfortable, familiar, similar experiences that offer essentially nothing of place. It contributes to the malling of our culture. People go to Starbucks, Olive Garden and McDonalds because they "know" the brands and are comfortable with them even if they are not better than mediocre and often worse. It may very well be that certain brands are very good and have better quality than independents and yes, I do not completely avoid chains or "brands". How can I in our society? I do, however, think that we are slowly losing something important and when I have the option and a legitimate choice, I will choose against the chain or the "branded" restaurant every time.

[Bobby 2 Shakes]

As far as Disneyfication, I don't think SRO has fallen into that rathole yet. I remember sending them an email suggesting he might possibly name his next restaurant "Stephen Starr's Hip, Eponymous Restaurant." A Disneyite would have been all over that like mice on rice.

Sent it to SRO, though, and even the crickets sat still for that one. (In retrospect, the best course of action. You don't want to encourage me when I get like that.)