An embarrassment of morels

[Fat Guy]

I've recently been gifted a couple of pounds of the most exquisite morels I've ever seen. I considered selling them to Alain Ducasse, but decided instead to cook them. Then I realized I've never cooked a morel.

Advice?

[Jason Perlow]

I've recently been gifted a couple of pounds of the most exquisite morels I've ever seen. I considered selling them to Alain Ducasse, but decided instead to cook them. Then I realized I've never cooked a morel.

Advice?

Buy a shitload of Normandy butter. Invite me over to dinner. And drag Seeber over there while you are at it.

I have several pounds of alaskan king crab legs to contribute.

[Fat Guy]

I've actually heard that if you position a pile of Normandy butter next to a pile of morels and leave the room, they will of their own volition combine into sauteed morels.

[Jason Perlow]

I'm thinking shelled seafood, butter, heavy cream, morels, some herbs, salt and pepper, ladled over thickly sliced toasted brioche. Or over fresh pasta. Maybe something green to go with it so your cardiologist doesnt freak.

[Fat Guy]

I'll take two.

Still, at a more basic level, I'm trying to ascertain how one cooks morels to maximize their flavor and bring out their optimal texture.

[Jason Perlow]

Well, at Craft, I dont think they do anything to them except saute them in butter and add fleur de sel.

They are so rare, and their flavor so profound, that I think futzing with them too much is a bad idea.

[southern girl]

Steve,

I am jealous.

There is one improtant thing before you cook the morels...you need to soak them to get rid of whatever "critters" might have decided to inhabit them. All you need to do is soak them two or three times depending on how "dirty" they are. The first time you soak them add some salt which will help dislodge any debris. Then soak them one or two times more with unsalted water. Do this just before you are ready to cook them.

Enjoy

[Blue Heron]

Such a wonderful problem you have.

I would respectfully disagree with the idea of soaking or even washing them. Maybe we were lucky, but our morels had very little dirt on them, and basically I just gave them a quick wipe with a dry crumpled paper towel, and they were good to go. Hubby brought home 1/2 lb. one day, and on a subsequent hike suprised me by picking 10 lbs! We gave away about half, but of the remaining ones, I tried a few different things, but found out the less futzing with them the better. They are actually best when just sauteed in butter. I saute the small ones whole, and the larger ones I cut in half or quarters. I also liked them coated with a seasoned flour, shake off excess, and then saute until almost crisp. My favorite preparation was fresh Dungeness Crab Stuffed Morels. I think I've mentioned them on at least 2 other threads already, but I'll say it again They Are To Die For! I prepared them by sauteeing them in butter first, then filling the halves with a mixture of fresh Dungeness Crab (I'm guessing east coast crab works just as well), parmesan cheese, chives, mayo, egg yolk, a bit of cream, S&P, and finished off in a 375 degree oven for a few minutes...inspired from a recipe from foodtv.com. I also tried them in an omelet with Gruyere, but the cheese overwhelmed the flavor of the mushrooms, which was a crime. I didn't think the use of them with pasta was a particularly good combo either. They really shined (for me), just on their own, with lots of good butter. That's how one can best appreciate the wonderful woodsy earthy flavor. I have also dried some, but haven't tried those ones yet.

B Edulis is the one to talk to though, as she is the real morel guru!

edit: and to store them (which you probably already know), you put them in a paper sack, and put them in the fridge. I fold the sack top once just to close, but I don't think it matters.

[mamster]

I note that Daniel's current menu features foie gras-stuffed morels. I'm not actually suggesting you do this at home, or at least not without inviting me.

[southern girl]

Blue Herron..I agree with your method too...I have used them both. The wash method came on the advice of one of the former sous chefs at Michaels in LA for some really dirty morels. He stressed that this could only be done immediately before using them...which I did...and they were served in a beurre blanc over fresh pompano....worked fine.

Perhaps Steve could try both methods and give us a report.

[Blue Heron]

southern girl, I would always trust the advice of a real chef over myself anyday. . Hopefully it will be apparent by looking at them if they need washing, I think. Your morels in beurre blanc over fresh pompano sounds fantastic! mmmm.

mamster, just think, next fall when you join the PNW mushroom group you are going to find more wild mushrooms than you know what to do with. (you and Laurie are joining, aren't you? not to mention everyone is invited to join)

[Ron Johnson]

(1) Braise in buerre fondue with asparagus (Tom Colicchio)

(2) Saute in EVOO with garlic, shallot and thyme serve in fettucine

(3) Lasagna of morels, bechamel, fresh ricotta, bel paese, parmigiano reggiano, and quail eggs.

(4) Fresh pasta tagliatelle with morels in cognac, demi-glace, cream reduction.

(5) Large morels filled with gorgonzola, dressed with EVOO and sea salt, run under the broiler and garnish with tomato concasse.

(6) Sauteed morels in omelette with scallions and chevre

We have had a ton of morels in our market this year, and the above is a list of some of the things that I have done with them so far.

[helenas]

(4)  Fresh pasta tagliatelle with morels in cognac, demi-glace, cream reduction.

calvados is even better than cognac; apple aroma adds something magical to

morels...

[tommy]

just let us know what night we should come over.

[Ron Johnson]

(4)  Fresh pasta tagliatelle with morels in cognac, demi-glace, cream reduction.

calvados is even better than cognac; apple aroma adds something magical to

morels...

Thanks Helena. Guess what I will be making this weekend?

[Fat Guy]

I'm not being clear: I understand that sauteeing in some sort of fat is the way to cook morels. I'm trying to ascertain the specifics of that process. If it's just a question of sauteeing them just as I'd sautee any other vegetable-type thing, fine. But I was under the impression that morels came with an implied "handle with care" warning. Does one need to take steps to protect them? Is lower heat required? Stock? Any special handling? That's the stuff I'm trying to get at.

[Ron Johnson]

DO NOT CROWD THE PAN!

That is about the only advice that I can give. If you do, you will steam, not saute, your morels, and you will ruin them.

[Wilfrid]

If morels are harder to cook than any other mushroom, I've never noticed. Sautee in oil or butter - I would prefer butter - and once they have started to color and relax, add a liquid of your choice to finish them. Heavy cream - of course, of course - or red wine, or port, or calvados.

Or forget the sauteeing and introduce them directly into a poached (not coddled) dish, such as capon cooked in champagne (or white wine) and cream. Buy some white wine from Jurancon, and make poulet vin jaune aux morilles.

Does anyone accent the morels by adding chopped fresh herbs?

[Blue Heron]

I just saute them over medium heat in butter, and if they look like they are cooking too quick, turn the temp down a bit. I have not noticed any special care required. As I recall, their behavior in the pan is not quite the same as sauteeing chantrelles or button mushrooms. They stay more firm than other mushrooms I've sauteed, not getting that sauciness that I get when I saute chantrelles....maybe because they do not exude as much liquid as other mushrooms. Some people like them sauteed medium, and others like them a little more cooked, almost crispy, to eat like a snack. I do not recall how many minutes exactly I saute them, less than 10.

I also remembered I made them in in a heavy cream sauce as well, and served them over salmon, since that was what I had fresh and handy. It was unbelievably good. I do not remember using any fresh herbs off the top of my head, but I did use some type of alcohol, what ever was handy, ie vermouth or marsala, as well as a pinch of swiss bouillon paste.

Good luck! You'll have to let us know how they turn out.

[tommy]

i've carmelized them (by accident) and was quite intrigued by the results. you may consider doing this with a few.

[Rachel Perlow]

Actually, in addition to the crab (which should be an acceptable substitute for the dungenes crab mentioned above, we have both Normandy Butter and some other kind of European butter to contribute due to a recent trip to the International Food Warehouse in Lodi. (I told the manager there they need to stock Pocky.) Shall we come over on the Fouth?

[Wilfrid]

Yes, you might consider burning some of them. You might also consider not doing so.

[Jinmyo]

Steve, it is appropriate to be in awe of the profound and robust flavour of morels. But one need not fear.

As mentioned by many here, a quick wipe with a paper towel or soft cloth, saute in Normandy butter (or other fat) on medium high then medium heat. Anything else depends upon what else they're being served with.

Do let us know what you do, please.

[Blue Heron]

I do not remember using any fresh herbs off the top of my head, but I did use some type of alcohol....

I hope that didn't sound like I'm growing herbs on top of my head.

[Jinmyo]

I do not remember using any fresh herbs off the top of my head, but I did use some type of alcohol....

I hope that didn't sound like I'm growing herbs on top of my head.

Oh... Why not?