Gilt

[ASM NY]

Gilt wins the Time Out NY Eat Out award "Best Tasting Eye Candy" for the numerous amuses that the kitchen sends out before every meal. Sadly it didn't win best new restaurant (that went to The Modern).

One of Gilt's amuses (the beet tuile) is actually on the cover of the magazine. It's so unfortunate (and ironic) that this one is actually an elBulli creation and not a Gilt original. They had so many great ones to pick from!

[Pan]

Gilt wins the Time Out NY Eat Out award "Best Tasting Eye Candy" for the numerous amuses that the kitchen sends out before every meal. Sadly it didn't win best new restaurant (that went to The Modern).[...]

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By the "sadly," do you mean that The Modern doesn't deserve the award and Gilt does? If so, why?

[ASM NY]

By the "sadly," do you mean that The Modern doesn't deserve the award and Gilt does? If so, why?

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Well. there can only be one winner... I have had my meals at both "Modern" restaurants and at Gilt. I enjoyed the food better at the formal restaurant more than the bar room. Don't get me wrong, I think that The Modern is a fine restaurant, but neither of my meals there ranked among the best I have had in New York. My meal at Gilt did.

[oakapple]

My friend and I had dinner at Gilt last night. It is an opulent restaurant that is clearly trying to shoot for the moon, but doesn't always get there. Chef Paul Liebrandt's cuisine is adventurous, colorful, thoughtful, and frequently excellent. But there are too many dishes that fail to live up to their promise.

The menu at Gilt changes frequently, and is still clearly undergoing some refinement. Frank Bruni complained that practically half the dishes carried supplements on top of a $92 prix fixe. On last night's version, I noted a supplement only on the Dover Sole ($12). We chose the seven-course tasting menu, which is $160 on the website, but was $145 last night.

There were, in fact, something closer to eleven courses, including two flights of amuses bouches, white asparagus, foie gras, skate, lobster, a palate cleanser, Berkshire pork belly, cheese course, another palate cleanser, and a degustation of chocolate. Every plating was a work of art.

I'm not adept at remembering ingredients, and Liebrandt puts more into each dish than any chef in town. We found the foie gras, the pork belly, and the cheese course spectacular. Especially notable was a decadent olive butter that was brought to the table with the foie gras. But both fish courses disappointed. The skate was only about the size of a silver dollar, and it failed to make any impression at all. And there were just two popcorn-sized lumps of lobster. The white asparagus wasn't as impressive as what Geoffrey Zakarian's performance of it at Country. The chocolate degustation was terrific if you're a choc-a-holic, but I think there should have been other options for dessert.

Gilt is clearly trying to offer four-star service, and at times it succeeds. For instance, Gilt was just the third restaurant I've been to (along with Alain Ducasse and Per Se) that has your coat ready when you leave, without the attendant even asking your name. But there were peculiar glitches. The wrong wine glasses were delivered to the table: a captain whispered, "No, the bordeaux glasses," and the right stemware was quickly substituted. When you leave your table, the staff brings a fresh napkin. Or they're supposed to. On one occasion, a new napkin wasn't there immediately; on another, I had to ask for it.

Frank Bruni complained about the $1,000 glass of wine at Gilt. It's still on the menu (a Screaming Eagle cabernet that's ridiculously priced everywhere). But more realistically, there are plenty of bottles under $100 at Gilt, and even a handful under $50. For a restaurant of this calibre, I can't complain about that. My friend and I chose a Martinelli Reserve Pinot Noir at $122 that was out-of-this-world. Gilt does gouge you in other ways. Cocktails are $15 apiece, which is on the high side, and we were charged $9 each for capuccinos.

The room is small, elegant, and comfortable. The door to the kitchen is up a short flight of steps, and open to view, which detracts slightly from the magic of the occasion. The hard polished wood surfaces reflect sound, and when the restaurant fills up it gets a bit noisier than I'd like.

The bill came to just a hair under $500, including tax. We went home happy, and much of the food was as terrific as it should be, but at that price there should be a sustained excellence that was lacking.

[ASM NY]

The menu at Gilt changes frequently, and is still clearly undergoing some refinement. Frank Bruni complained that practically half the dishes carried supplements on top of a $92 prix fixe. On last night's version, I noted a supplement only on the Dover Sole ($12). We chose the seven-course tasting menu, which is $160 on the website, but was $145 last night.

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Interesting, I was just looking at the menu online as well, and was suprised to see that they increased it from $135 to $160 for the tasting menu, now apparently it's $145. Odd.

Marc, how busy was the room? Just curious to hear how the restaurant is doing.

[ulterior epicure]

Interesting, I was just looking at the menu online as well, and was suprised to see that they increased it from $135 to $160 for the tasting menu, now apparently it's $145. Odd.

I haven't bothered to look at the Gilt tasting menu, but I've seen a few other high-end restos around the country who adjust their tasting menu prices (both up and down) according to the cost of the produce for a particular season/menu. If I'm not mistaken, Le Bernardin across the way does this.

u.e.

[oakapple]

Interesting, I was just looking at the menu online as well, and was suprised to see that they increased it from $135 to $160 for the tasting menu, now apparently it's $145. Odd.

I agree. While I don't make a point of tracking every menu change in town, I don't know of any tasting menu that has yo-yo'd in price like this one.

Marc, how busy was the room? Just curious to hear how the restaurant is doing.

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Our reservation was at 6pm, and when we arrived it was perhaps 20% full. Three hours later, when we left, it was about 80% full.

[ckkgourmet]

Especially notable was a decadent olive butter that was brought to the table with the foie gras.

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I also found the butter delivered with the foie gras to be notable, except mine was even more decadent, being studded with black truffle! I have no concept of how olive butter would work--is that like a combination of olive oil and butter tastes?

Is it your impression, oakapple, that the place is hurting? When I went to Gilt, it was quite late on a weeknight. It wasn't necessary a representative example of the restaurant's business.

From your report, however, it would seem that Liebrandt still hasn't ironed out all the imperfections in service and food that people have been noticing. I would love to return, but I think I'll hold back until I see a review calling the place consistent!

[ulterior epicure]

Especially notable was a decadent olive butter that was brought to the table with the foie gras.

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I also found the butter delivered with the foie gras to be notable, except mine was even more decadent, being studded with black truffle! I have no concept of how olive butter would work--is that like a combination of olive oil and butter tastes?

STOP!!! You're killing me!!! The decadence!!! Ohmygosh - butter with foie gras?!?!?! How does one eat the two together? I'm assuming the foie is served hot and the butter is lathered on... ?

u.e.

Edited April 24, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Sneakeater]

You spread the butter on the toast you put the foie gras on.

[ulterior epicure]

Oh right... that would work too!

u.e.

[Sneakeater]

Believe me, it more than works!

Edited April 24, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[ckkgourmet]

But it really was the most decadent condiment I've ever met--I'll give Liebrandt that! They gave me a substantial amount of it too. My friend and I were spreading it on everything bread-like that we could get our hands on. (That reminds me, I thought the bread service was quite nice at Gilt).

Perhaps "decadent" is an understatement for the truffle butter and foie gras--"obscene" (in a good way) might be more suitable!

[ulterior epicure]

But it really was the most decadent condiment I've ever met--I'll give Liebrandt that!

Don't worry, I'm not doubting that!

As for beautiful butters, I have been tempted on a occasion to just go for the spoon... if it weren't for my mother's stern face appearing on who/whatever is across from me shaking her head, I might have actually downed a few pats straight-up... must try Liebrandt's olive oil butter - that'll be a new one... can't wait to see what he chucks into my version!

u.e.

[Sneakeater]

My friend and I were spreading it on everything bread-like that we could get our hands on.

We were, too. It was sort of comical the way we were looking for things we could put it on.

(That reminds me, I thought the bread service was quite nice at Gilt).

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You're right. If I didn't mention that in my report, I should have.

Edited April 24, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[ckkgourmet]

As for beautiful butters, I have been tempted on a occasion to just go for the spoon... if it weren't for my mother's stern face appearing on who/whatever is across from me shaking her head, I might have actually downed a few pats straight-up... must try Liebrandt's olive oil butter - that'll be a new one... can't wait to see what he chucks into my version! 

u.e.

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I have been known to eat butter "raw". At Gilt, u.e., you will be sorely tempted to defy your mom's memory!

[oakapple]

Is it your impression, oakapple, that the place is hurting? When I went to Gilt, it was quite late on a weeknight. It wasn't necessary a representative example of the restaurant's business.

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I have no hard facts, but I would guess thay are struggling. Saturday night should be the money night at this type of restaurant, and while they were doing a decent business, they weren't full. I've just checked on OpenTable, and you can get a reservation any night this week.

[tan319]

Is it your impression, oakapple, that the place is hurting? When I went to Gilt, it was quite late on a weeknight. It wasn't necessary a representative example of the restaurant's business.

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I have no hard facts, but I would guess thay are struggling. Saturday night should be the money night at this type of restaurant, and while they were doing a decent business, they weren't full. I've just checked on OpenTable, and you can get a reservation any night this week.

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How many times does Per Se turn their tables over on a Saturday nite?

Does the tasting menu take around 2 or 3 hours?

Not withstanding service problems(when they happen), it's been my impression that Liebrandt is trying to offer a more specialized cuisine & service then many in NYC.

Also, from my experience, Friday nite is usually better then Saturdays, in general.

Not trying to be contrary, although I think it's a stretch to assume theres a "struggle" involved at 80% capacity?

Thanks for the reports, the food looks and sounds great.

[Sneakeater]

Also, don't they have weirdly restrictive seating requirements (to prevent undue stress on the kitchen)? Don't they pretty much refuse to seat you at 7 or even 8, instead preferring 6 (or 6:30 if you beg nicely) and then 9? I don't think I'm alone in finding a 6 o'clock seating a bit rough.

Anyway, in that case, you'd expect the restaurant to be pretty empty for the first seating, and to fill up later. But the place still misses out on what I'd consider the prime seating time. So it may be that some of their problems (if indeed they're having any) are of their own creation.

Edited April 24, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[tan319]

Also, don't they have weirdly restrictive seating requirements (to prevent undue stress on the kitchen)?  Don't they pretty much refuse to seat you at 7 or even 8, instead preferring 6 or 6:30 and then 9?  I don't think I'm alone in finding a 6 o'clock seating a bit rough.

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That's what I'm talking about.

At $145 to $160 + dollars + wine a person, I think GILT is more interested in delivering a quality experience, a hard thing to do these days...

Ahh, didn't catch your edit...

Prime seating time...

You might have a point about that, maybe not.

It disturbs me to see "problems ( if they're indeed having any) are of their own creation" being floated out there.

It's very F-X news, isn't it?

At the least very 'net.

People said this kind of stuff about wd-50 not that long ago just because it wasn't packed like a Park Ave. South "scene" joint at 6:30 or 7:00 on a Sunday night.

[oakapple]

But it really was the most decadent condiment I've ever met....

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And, to correct my earlier comment, it was truffle butter, not olive butter.

[oakapple]

How many times does Per Se turn their tables over on a Saturday nite?

Does the tasting menu take around 2 or 3 hours?

Not withstanding service problems(when they happen), it's been my impression that Liebrandt is trying to offer a more specialized cuisine & service then many in NYC.

Also, from my experience, Friday nite is usually better then Saturdays, in general.

Not trying to be contrary, although I think it's a stretch to assume theres a "struggle" involved at 80% capacity?

Thanks for the reports, the food looks and sounds great.

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I'm no expert on restaurant economics, but there are at least half-a-dozen restaurants in the city that are trying to compete at the same level of luxury, so I think one can make comparisons. When the restaurant has tables readily available every night of the week, I would presume they're having some struggles. I wouldn't compare them to WD-50, where the rents must be a lot lower.

I think Per Se gets two turns at most of the tables. Just like Gilt, Per Se doesn't offer 8pm reservations except to VIPs, since those tables can't turn. The difference is that Per Se fills every available slot, and Gilt doesn't.

[ckkgourmet]

Although there is also the ADNY model, which apparently means one seating per table per night.

[tan319]

Although there is also the ADNY model, which apparently means one seating per table per night.

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I think Liebrandt is modeling GILT more after that Ducasse/Euro concept.

I've also been under the impression that GILT is being funded by rather deep pocketed private investors who aren't that interested in making money (as strange as that may seem.)rather then the hotel itself.

[rich]

I've also been under the impression that GILT is being funded by rather deep pocketed private investors who aren't that interested in making money (as strange as that may seem.)rather then the hotel itself.

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Tan - if you know investors who are willing to put up cash and aren't interested in making money, I have a few projects I'm trying to get off the ground. Please let me know who they are.