Schwa - Chicago

[molto e]

I was lucky enough to get into Schwa a couple weeks back, right after the crew returned from their time off in New York. A friend had scored a Wednesday-night reservation and offered one of the seats to me. It had been about 8 months since my last visit and with the exception of the heaven-sent quail egg ravioli, the menu was entirely new to me.

As was alluded to above, Chef Carlson along with Nathan, Blake and the rest of the crew display the kind of genuine hospitality that is a natural offshoot of loving what one does in life. They are sincere and eager to please in ways that cannot be faked. Dining at Schwa is a joy not only because the food is so good but also because its vibe is so sweet. When you sit in the dining room at Schwa, you know that you're being fed by men who take pride in what they do -- and those other 25 diners in the room are as happy to be there as you are. No one just stumbles into Schwa.

It's probably not meaningful for me to comment on the evolution of specific dishes at Schwa because I haven't dined there frequently enough to have an adequate perspective. However, this meal was quite a departure from my last meal at Schwa. The biggest difference I noticed was the resourceful and innovative pairing of sweet and savory components in some dishes. Again, this an anecdotal observation based on nothing more than my last 2 meals at Schwa.

peas & carrots

This was a fun dish, which was a clever departure from the peas and carrots that most of us grew up with. Here, small pieces of crunchy, Thai-style pickled carrot were served in a small bowl along with an ultra-thin sheet of pea-wasabi 'nori' that crunched first and then melted in the mouth. It was delicious and the contrast between it and the tangy carrot was wonderful.

oysters

This is a dish that I never would have expected at Schwa. It combined lightly-breaded and flash-fried kumamato (iirc) oysters with rich, gooey oatmeal that had been laced with Blis maple syrup and studded with plump, warm raisins. Also served with this was a raw oyster shooter in a tiny shotglass at the top corner of the plate. This seemingly wacked-out combination really worked. The oatmeal and oysters complemented each other very well and the sweet accents provided by the maple and the raisins rounded out the dish nicely. Who knew?

fava

This may have been my favorite dish of the entire meal. It was basically early spring on a plate; a delicious salad of fresh favas, ramps and morels served with a demitasse of warm fava soup that had been laced with black truffle. I could have had this one again and again.

quail egg ravioli

I'm not sure what else can be said about this spectacular and sublime dish. It's hearty and delicate all at once. The combination of ricotta, quail egg, parmigiano reggiano, brown butter and black truffle is one of the most delicious I've ever experienced.

steelhead caviar

This was another dish which reflected the perceived change I mentioned above and again, it was quite successful. Here, sake-cured steelhead roe was combined with pinenut puree and topped with yuzu foam and barnacles. I was surprised by how well the roe worked with the intensely earthy pine nut. Its saltiness cut through each spoonful of puree magnificently, almost like a spotlight through a dense fog. It was almost as if you needed the roe on your tongue to illuminate the depth of the nutty puree. The barnacles were chewy, briney and delicious and the yuzu accented the other components terrifically.

halibut cheeks

These tender cheeks, cooked en sous vide and served with dual sauces of meyer lemon and basil, over artichoke confit, were terrific. Again, the meyer lemon sauce was very sweet but it combined well with the basil which muted the sweetness a bit. Together they formed a solid background for the aromatic fish. The artichokes were tasty in their own right and provided a nice textural contrast with the cheeks.

sweetbreads

The best sweetbreads I've ever had were at my last Schwa meal and these were nearly as good. Here, piping hot nuggets of lightly-coated and sauteed sweetbread were served with various plum elements, including a brightly-flavored salad of fresh and juicy, ultra-thin slices and a remarkable smoked puree. These elements were grounded masterfully by a portion of pungent queso de valderon at the bottom of the bowl. I loved the way the sweetbreads combined with the smokey puree. They almost tasted like bacon nuggets when dipped in it. Wow!!

lamb

Strips of succulent lamb loin, cooked en sous vide, and a square of delectable, braised, crispy lamb belly, which I'd never tasted before, were served together with green curry and root beer flavors. Both lamb cuts were terrific and the house-made root beer highlighted the meat well. The lamb belly was absolutely delicious and really concentrated in rich, lamb flavor.

cheese

Next up was a bite of savory, humboldt fog cheesecake with grains of paradise crust and pear emulsion. HF is one of my favorite cheeses of all time, so I really loved this clever and delicious bite. It was delightfully odd to be eating a piece of cheesecake with the flavor of humboldt fog. And I really loved the the sweet pear emulsion in the immediate background.

dessert

We were served a couple of dessert plates that were novel and delicious. The first was a uniquely-sweet beet semifreddo with bacon and chocolate. These components worked well together and the normally-savory components paired up remarkably well with the sweet ones. The second dessert, warm soft-pretzels with honey-mustard, dates and tumeric ice cream was also delicious. The pretzels were perfectly tender inside and released steam when we cracked into their shells. And the honey mustard was compelling. The turmeric ice cream made me laugh at first because of the way it echoed and amplified a similar note in the honey mustard. A very fun dish.

There was so much more to our meal and most of it had only peripherally to do with food. As I mentioned above, dining at Schwa is special. There is an immediacy to the experience that is unique -- and that immediacy adds to the excitement. But if the food weren't fantastic, none of that would matter. Schwa is an artist's studio where private performances are served and eaten nightly. It is an intensely personal experience that never feels intrusive. It's so much like being a guest at a friend's home, that you feel like you should offer to help clear the table when the meal's over. Of course, not too many of us have friends who can cook like this.

=R=

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Tasting Menu

I dined with RS that evening and it was another stellar experience at Schwa! Schwa is the epitome of fine dining without pretense and I have yet to meet someone that has not been seduced by the Schwa experience. We sat at the table in front of the window to the kitchen, which in my opinion is the best place to watch Chef Michael Carlson and his crew perform the dance of service (that may be to the sound of Jurassic 5 / and I have never found it to be too loud in the dining room). One minute Michael has a blowtorch in his hand to brulee a green cardomom marshmallow and the next time I looked up he and the gang were huddled around a course that was being plated. The journey that the Schwa crew took us on this evening was an example of the abundant creativity that is present in the kitchen as many of the flavor combinations were new to me.

Peas & Carrots - wasabi pea nori, ginger pickled carrots, lavander

The whimsical nature of the Schwa boys was on display with their spin on peas and carrots. The ginger pickled carrots were addictive and the leaves of wasabi pea nori were tasty. The Japanese plating aesthetic was a nice touch with chopsticks and a sushi style serving piece.

Oysters - oatmeal, raisins, maple...almond milk shot with raw oyster and cinnamon gelee

When you happen to be presented with a dish that is unfamilar and perhaps difficult to wrap your mind around, if you do not have trust in a chef then perhaps your mind's walls will prevent you from enjoying it. This dish was one of those examples for me, on first glance this dish did not make sense to me, but after tasting the crisped oysters in combination with Steve's Blis syrup with the raisin oatmeal then everything clicked. I think we were told to enjoy the oyster shot last but I may not be remembering that correctly. I think that Steve's Blis syrup would probably taste great with anything and I strongly suggest buying some of that nectar for your pancake and waffle dishes.

Fava - ramps, black truffle...pickled ramp bottoms, ramp top puree, pecorino romano

Delicious...alternating nibbles of the meaty morels and ramps then a shot of the fava soup followed by a bit of the pecorino made for sweet, salty and earthy tastes of goodness. I like Michael's style of plating his soups with the little goodies outside of the soup rather than in the bowl. As loved as the proscuitto consomme had been, the fava soup has more than taken its place!

Quail Egg Ravioli - ricotta, brown butter, parmigiano reggianno

Next time I may bring some supermarket ravioli and fake dropping them on the floor so I can get another serving of these . Brown butter, egg yolk, ricotta and parmigiano...how could it not be good! I wish this was served with a little piece of bread or baguette to soak up the sauce after the ravioli are consumed. This dish is served with a fork and my friend that sat across from me at the table in order to enjoy the remainder of the sauce used his fork like a spoon in a rapidly flipping motion to get the sauce in his mouth .

Steelhead Roe - pine, pine nuts, yuzu...sake cured roe, roasted pinenut puree, yuzu gelee, barnacles, pine emulsion

To appreciate the dish a spoonful needed to have a little of all the components. When the roe exploded its essence within the pinenut puree then the dish came together.

Halibut Cheeks - artichoke, lemon, basil...confit of artichoke, meyer lemon puree, basil puree

The halibut cheeks were cooked sous-vide so that left the fish incredibly tender. I enjoyed the fish with the basil puree a bit more than the meyer lemon puree.

Sweetbreads - plum, marshmallow, queso de valdeon...smoked plum puree, green cardamom marshmallow

If someone was not a sweetbread fan then they may be a convert after trying any of Chef Carlson's sweetbread riffs. This one had variations of plum starting with a tart plum salad on the rim of the plate followed by a puree of smoked plum leading to the crispy nugs of sweetbread laying next to a bruleed green cardamom marshmallow. The consistency of his sweetbreads are almost like a chicken mcnugget with out as much breading ( I mean that in a good way) and Ronald should try and snag the recipe for the smoked plum puree for a new dipping sauce.

Lamb - green curry, root beer...tenderloin, cous cous with green curry, lamb belly root beer leaf puree, housemade root beer

This was one of my ATF dishes at Schwa...the lamb tenderloin cooked sous-vide was so tender and the unctuous belly just melted in my mouth.

Cheese - mach humboldt fog cheesecake with grains of paradise crust, pear emulsion

novel spin on a cheese course

Pretzels - dates stuffed with salted caramel and mustard seed rolled in hard pretzel and tumeric candy, tumeric ice cream

Warm soft pretzels that were complemented with streaks of date puree and mustard with caramel stuffed dates and a tumeric ice cream that surprised me as to how much I enjoyed it.

Beet semifreddo - chocolate bacon ganache, white chocolate foam, bacon powder, roasted beets

I was digging on the chocolate bacon ganache...hopefully chocolate sauce does not start making it into my breakfast.

Michael, Nathan (who is no longer at Schwa), Blake and Aaron hosted a great evening that we could not have enjoyed more. Their sense of conviviality is tremendous and when the person that cooked the dish asks how you enjoyed it, that connection really means something. If you have not had the opportunity to be seduced by Schwa then do so as soon as possible.

Edited May 19, 2007 by molto e (log)

[BryanZ]

Great pictures. The oysters and oatmeal, even to me, sounds a bit strange. Still, would love to try it.

[molto e]

Great pictures.  The oysters and oatmeal, even to me, sounds a bit strange.  Still,  would love to try it.

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Thanks...I am not sure where they pulled that combo from but it worked. I think the Schwa experience will resonate with you.

[docsconz]

Where did Nathan go?

Great report and pics as always, Eliot. The lamb looked particularly enticing, although those ravioli are one of the all-time great dishes!

[ulterior epicure]

Where did Nathan go?

Echo. ???

[molto e]

Where did Nathan go?

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Doc and U.E.,

Not sure where Nathan went...

Molto E

[dagordon]

We had a slight variation on molto e and ronnie suburban's meal last Friday at Schwa:

(Butter poached lobster substituted for halibut cheeks.)

We were in Chicago for a wedding that weekend. Thursday night we did Alinea; Schwa on Friday. Our meal at Alinea started at 7:30; we had a wedding-related event on Fri evening, so our meal at Schwa was over by 7:30. With nothing but a Jamba Juice in between these two meals, this had to be the greatest 24 hours of our lives so far, food-wise.

As I said in my Alinea post, sorry for the quality of the photos... couldn't quite master taking photos with the flash disabled.

This was just a stunning meal. Flawless, actually. At one point in the meal I attempted to convince Chef Carlson that he'd neglected to serve us the ravioli, but he didn't bite. But as rave-worthy as the ravioli obviously are, the other dishes were absolutely on the same level. The oysters in the oatmeal were "Chef's Cove" I believe (that's what I heard though Google reveals nothing), the oyster in the shot glass was a Kumamoto; these were pristine, and I could have this dish every morning for breakfast. The fava soup was unreal. We've had bad experiences with blue cheese in savory courses in the past; the valdeon and sweetbread combination was delicious. Lamb belly must become more widespread. (And I have to track down this Crawford Farm.)

We've actually never understood the fuss about Humboldt fog, but what they did with it was impressive. (Oh, and I should mention that I strongly dislike root beer, but could crave the root bear shot that was served with the lamb; is this what root beer should taste like?)

Bacon and chocolate, pretzels with mustard for dessert? Need I say more?

The food by itself was exceptional, but to enjoy it in such an intimate environment was a real privelige.

Smiley face in my plum

Edited July 3, 2007 by dagordon (log)

[ulterior epicure]

dagordon.

Thanks for reporting. Are these out of order, by any chance? What is the swoosh of green (peas?) with what looks like slices of corned beef on top?

What, exactly, did they do with the Humboldt Fog? It looks like it was made into a cheesecake.

u.e.

[dagordon]

dagordon.

Thanks for reporting.  Are these out of order, by any chance?  What is the swoosh of green (peas?) with what looks like slices of corned beef on top? 

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They're in order (though I just realized I forgot the sweetbreads, which I've now added) -- that's the lamb.

What, exactly, did they do with the Humboldt Fog?  It looks like it was made into a cheesecake.

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It was indeed a cheesecake -- iirc we were told that the ash layer of the cheese had been replaced with a truffle layer.

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks, dagordon, but I still think I'm missing something - the Oyster with oatmeal and raisins course.

[dagordon]

Thanks, dagordon, but I still think I'm missing something - the Oyster with oatmeal and raisins course.

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you're also missing the steelhead roe and the lobster. either the pictures were so blurry that i deleted them from my camera at some point, or we just forgot to take them... sorry. we're already in the process of researching a camera upgrade.

[philadining]

Ah, nevermind with the camera upgrade, I think your money would be much better spent hiring a personal photographer to travel with you everywhere. You know, someone you trust, someone you're comfortable with, someone who would understand the milieu...

[ulterior epicure]

Ah, nevermind with the camera upgrade, I think your money would be much better spent hiring a personal photographer to travel with you everywhere. You know, someone you trust, someone you're comfortable with, someone who would understand the milieu...

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I second philadining's suggestion.

Where do I apply?

[dagordon]

Ah, nevermind with the camera upgrade, I think your money would be much better spent hiring a personal photographer to travel with you everywhere. You know, someone you trust, someone you're comfortable with, someone who would understand the milieu...

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I second philadining's suggestion.

Where do I apply?

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Hey, you guys are both welcome to apply; keep in mind, though, that whenever we travel the help is fed whatever inexpensive local stuff we can find. We fed the young man who carried our luggage on this trip here:

[philadining]

hmmm, is the $2 roll a kaiser roll or a spicy tuna roll?

Anyway, seriously, that looked like an awesome meal at Schwa. The earlier reports here had already put it on my list, but it might have just bumped up a couple of spots...

[BryanZ]

That is perhaps the scariest picture ever to have held a place on a Schwa discussion thread.

[BryanZ]

Since reopening after its July closure, Schwa has revamped its website. For its nine-course menu, however, it presents no meat dishes. In fact, everything looks strictly vegetarian.

I'm going next week and am kind of scared. Is this a major frame-shift for the restaurant, an experiement, a joke? Anyone have any information?

[MattJohnson]

Hmm, I've been thinking about going after they reopened, but probably wouldn't do it if it was all veg. Nothing wrong with vegetarian meals, but it wouldn't be what I was looking for from Schwa.

[ulterior epicure]

Since reopening after its July closure, Schwa has revamped its website.  For its nine-course menu, however, it presents no meat dishes.  In fact, everything looks strictly vegetarian.

I'm going next week and am kind of scared.  Is this a major frame-shift for the restaurant, an experiement, a joke?  Anyone have any information?

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What news? Or, has it not yet happened? I'm curious to hear how the new vegetable-focused menu works.

u.e.

[BryanZ]

To say that Schwa has been annoying me is the understatement of a lifetime. Those following this thread have known that I've been trying to get reservations here since like March or April or something. After being closed for July, I had a reso for the 7th of this month. I get a call on the morning of the 7th by a dude name Blake who claims that the cooler broke the night before and they would not be opening on that night.

I explain my situation and how badly I want to eat there and that I'll be leaving Chicago on Friday morning and he offers to fit me in at 9:30 tonight, Thursday. Not ideal, but I take it.

I get another call from Blake this morning telling me they're still not able to open today, thus crushing my dreams of eating at Schwa before I leave Chicago. Sadness.

Edited August 9, 2007 by BryanZ (log)

[Darren72]

To say that Schwa has been annoying me is the understatement of a lifetime.  Those following this thread have known that I've been trying to get reservations here since like March or April or something.  After being closed for July, I had a reso for the 7th of this month.  I get a call on the morning of the 7th by a dude name Blake who claims that the cooler broke the night before and they would not be opening on that night.

I explain my situation and how badly I want to eat there and that I'll be leaving Chicago on Friday morning and he offers to fit me in at 9:30 tonight, Thursday.  Not ideal, but I take it.

I get another call from Blake this morning telling me they're still not able to open today, thus crushing my dreams of eating at Schwa before I leave Chicago.  Sadness.

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Bryan, this is too bad. The first time I had reservations at Schwa, something happened to a gas pipe, cooler, or something and they canceled on me a couple of days ahead of time. I can't help but wonder if this is bad luck on our part, if they have low quality equipment, or what. In any case, it was fun reading your reviews of Chicago restaurants while you were here.

[BryanZ]

There are still a couple things I have to write up, so the fun's not quite over. And there's a chance I may come back full-time next year. The pull of New York is strong, but Chicago has been pretty cool too.

Tonight, I'm going to Boka. Have to see if all this hubub about today's three-star review in the Tribune has merit.

[JDYmeat]

Schwa is ordering a whole lot of short ribs, tripe, and Crawford farm lamb from my company for being a veg menu!? I wouldn't cancel any reservations just yet. Anyway I'll find out first hand on the 24th.

[BryanZ]

Unless of course they cancel your reservations for you.

[Lenski]

We went to Schwa last week. This was my 14th time and I must admit that Chef Carlson and Company are better than ever.

It was an all new menu. For the first time ever, we did not have the ravioli. However, they were not missed much.

I believe since my last visit (early summer), Chef Carlson has completely revamped his menu. His creations are more daring and each dish in the tasting menu keeps surprising the palate even more.

The amuse consisted of a marvelous thyme ice-cream. It was followed by the "prosciutto consomme salad" where he deconstructs his old "prosciutto consomme" and jellifies it. I wish I could have taken a pic (too dark and I try not to do flash) it was very good and very (sorry) whimsical.

The soup dish was a cauliflower with white chocolate foam. Enough said.

Then, he created a Padthai, a pine-cone (very intense sea flavor) and "uku" (breaded with coconut) with lychee, mango and bacon. Very powerful flavors, very different but good.

Then, the winner for me: Tripe with panzanella. Just fantastic and followed by another winner: the "bbq." A combination of short ribs with bbq sauce (flawless), corn (on the cob with a sweet corn juice/soup, the consistency of creme brulee) and a watermelon salad.

Overall, so far, the meal of the year for me.