Son's First Visit to Paris

[Lexma90]

We're taking our 10-year-old son for his first trip to Europe early October. In London, we'll focus on Indian food, then on to the Loire Valley, where we'll visit le Cheval Blanc, in Blere (I ate there with my mom about 15 years ago, and I'm looking forward to returning). And ending up in Paris!

In past Paris visits, hubby and I have focused on Michelin-rated restaurants, but this trip, we plan to tone it down a bit. In the four dinners we have in Paris (spanning Sunday night, unfortunately), I'd like to expose our fledgling foodie to a variety of Parisien dining; he's pretty adventurous and well-behaved, and I think he'll enjoy most places we'd take him. I've collated a too-long list, based mostly on recommendations here. But I'm having trouble making those final decisions, and your input (especially re ambiance, appearance and neighborhoods of the restos) would help.

Here's my short list, in no particular order: Mon Viel Ami, Petit Tonneau, Le Fontaine de Mars (**), Au Bon Accueil, Au Bascou, Chez Maitre Paul, maybe Violon d'Ingres. Further afield (and I'd be more interested in the following if they are also in good walking neighborhoods): Temps au Temp, le Troquet, la Famille, la Cerisaie. (I was all set on Chez Maitre Paul for our first night, then heard it's gone downhill - is that so?) From some older posts, I've also seen le Coupe-Chou and le Maison du Jardin. And do I understand correctly that le Comptoir serves only one set menu in the evenings?

My parameters are that I would like a variety between more old-fashioned and cute vs. sophisticated and contemporary. Not too many Americans (so hypocritical, as I am one). For obvious reasons, nothing too terribly chic (I think that rules out Cinq Mars). We're staying in the 6th, and plan to take a boat on the river from the Pont Neuf our first night, so I'd rather eat closer to the Pont Neuf then. And despite the 7eme-heaviness of the list, I'd like to eat in more than just the 7th, though not as far afield as we might go if it were just the hubby and me.

Lunches we'll probably eat close to wherever we are; we need to save lots of time for sight-seeing and macaron-tasting (I have collected lunch-type restaurant ideas too). But if you have ideas in the 6th for a typical-Parisien lightish lunch at a place that serves moules-frites, I'd love those too!

[John Talbott]

Mon Viel Ami, Petit Tonneau, Le Fontaine de Mars (**), Au Bon Accueil, Au Bascou, Chez Maitre Paul, maybe Violon d'Ingres.  Further afield (and I'd be more interested in the following if they are also in good walking neighborhoods): Temps au Temp, le Troquet, la Famille, la Cerisaie.  (I was all set on Chez Maitre Paul for our first night, then heard it's gone downhill - is that so?)  From some older posts, I've also seen le Coupe-Chou and le Maison du Jardin.  And do I understand correctly that le Comptoir serves only one set menu in the evenings?

←

Yes as to Le Comptoir serving.

As for your list I'd pare it to (in rank order): la Cerisaie, Ze Kitchen Galerie. Maison du Jardin (I snuck that one in) Au Bon Acceuil, Violin D'Ingres (pricier than the rest) le Troquet, Temps au Temps.

As for the mix:

la Cerisaie is small, new, charming, but with an old feeling, nice pair running it

Ze Kitchen Galerie is bright, brassy, great contemporary food

Maison du Jardin classic, small, suits and good eats

Au Bon Acceuil not so different from Maison in its "feel"

Violin D'Ingres classy, elegant, M. Constant at his highest-level

le Troquet fun, more bistro-ish than the rest

Temps au Temps new bistro-ish, small, intime, again a nice pair running it.

Sunday night, that deserves a whole other thread.

And lunches, well, heck, just go to the others you don't go to dinner at.

Edited August 17, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[phaelon56]

On my first visit to Paris last January we absolutely loved this place which is in the 6th

La Boussole

I was turned on to it by a fellow eGulleteer with whom I exchanged some emails before my trip. It's fairly casual and by most standards quite reasonable in price (I think the three course dinner was about 25 Euros inclusive). Fascinating stuff that they do with spices that are non-traditional in French cuisine yet they incorporate this into the more traditional attitude toward food that seemed so prevalent to us during our visit.

I don't see it listed on their web site but they have a regular menu item that's sort of a chicken tandoori gone mole gone I-don't-know-what. It's pungently spicy - rich and powerful yet not overhwelminghly and not hot in the spicy sense.

And the trio of creme brulee's I had for dessert was the best dessert of the entire trip - especillay the one with anise which was remarkably restrained and subtle.

[marlena spieler]

Le Cheval Blanc in Troo? (I like staying there as they give you a farm egg fresh from a nearby chicken, for breakfast which makes a change from the usual bread, jam, and croissants...... and the quality of the bread and croissants was excellent. )

marlena

Edited August 17, 2005 by marlena spieler (log)

[docsconz]

Come early to mid-September I will be reporting on my experiences in Paris with my 15,14 and 6y/o boys. We will be hitting a few of the places you mentioned and a few others. Hopefully my reports will be of some assistance in that our circumstances are likely to be somewhat similar.

[Lexma90]

Thanks for the advice thus far. Hmmm - dinner on Sunday, well it might deserve another thread, but none of your suggestions, John, are open on Sunday

If you have further Sunday advice, my ears are wide open!

The Cheval Blanc I was referring to is in the Loire, in Blere. We're just eating there, and staying just outside Amboise.

I'll check out Boussole, too.

I've been reading your posts, docsconz; you'll have to report real fast after your trip - we're leaving for London on Sept 22. But I would love to hear your (and your kids') opinions of your meals.

[John Talbott]

Thanks for the advice thus far.  Hmmm - dinner on Sunday, well it might deserve another thread, but none of your suggestions, John, are open on Sunday 

If you have further Sunday advice, my ears are wide open!

←

A big problem. But not insurmountable. My thoughts (these are open Sunday lunch - double-check about evenings, esp Le Soleil, rank ordered as usual:

Le Reminet, 3, rue des Grands-Degres, 5th, 01.44.07.04.24

L'Equitable, 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel, 5th, 01.43.31.69.20

La Mediterranee, 2 pl de l'Odeon, 6th, 01.43.26.02.30

L'Ardoise, 28 rue du Mont Thabor, 1st, 01.42.96.28.18

Cap Vernet, 82, ave Marceau, 8th, 01.47.20.20.40, just had a decor change

La Cagouille, 10 Place Constantin Brancusi, 14th, 01.43.22.09.01{mainly for burned finger moules and buttered coques}

Le Soleil, 109 av Michelet, in St Ouen (opposite the flea market), 01.40.10.08.08

Mon Viel Ami, 69 St Louis en l'Ile, on the Ile St-Louis, 01.40.46.01.35 {off last time}

Brasserie Lorraine, 2, place des Ternes, 8th, 01.56.21.22.00 {off last time}

[Lexma90]

John, I've seen Fontaine de Mars written up a lot, but you didn't mention it as a Sunday dinner possibility - can you give me your opinion of that restaurant?

[John Talbott]

John, I've seen Fontaine de Mars written up a lot, but you didn't mention it as a Sunday dinner possibility - can you give me your opinion of that restaurant?

←

It's OK, I'm just not wild about it. Not quite sure why, I guess I like the first five a lot more and that's it.

For a 10 year old tho' it's a great space to run around, so maybe a good idea.

[Carlsbad]

We ate at Fontaine de Mars in 2004. I found the place charming. The outside tables are very nice in warm weather (not sure how they will be in October), and the service was very friendly. The food was good, but not very exciting, and I remember being a little disappointed in the duck confit, but then I made the mistake of ordering it after a large foie gras starter so maybe that had something to do with it. It's in a good walking area.

Last month, we had two great dinners at Mon Vieil Ami. The atmosphere is modern but complimentary to the setting on the Ile St-Louis. We thought the food was outstanding and quite different from what we had elsewhere, so much so that we returned a week later. The service was also very accomodating. They have some very good wines and the waiter was very knowledgeable about the food and the wines. It's obviously in a good area for walking.

We've eaten twice at le Troquet, and loved it. Both times we had the degustation menu (37E) and the food was exciting and well-executed. The service is a little stretched when they are busy, but it's a fun place and I think your son would be comfortable there. It's not in a particularly interesting area for walking, however.

We returned to Au Bon Acceuil last month after a long absence, and found the food as good as before. The service seemed a bit stretched, and I would try my best not to get stuck again in the small back room, which is non-smoking but very isolated. It's much nicer near the windows. (We also had dinner at Le Clos des Gourmet down the street, which we enjoyed more.)

We also returned to Violin d'Ingres. It is more formal (and expensive) than the other places mentioned, but the food was outstanding. While we were there (in July), they were serving only one set menu, and the place was virtually deserted. You wouldn't have that problem in October. We wanted to have lunch at Cafe Constant, but it never worked out. When we were walking to the deserted Violon, we saw M. Constant talking to people at the front of cafe, which was packed with people.

I realize you are probably trying to trim your list rather than add to it, but I'll mention two other places anyway. We had a very nice dinner at Le Pamphlet. We thought the food was all excellent, the setting charming and comfortable (old-fashioned even), and the service very good. They had some interesting, reasonably priced wines as well. After dinner, we had a nice walk back toward the river through Le Marais.

We also enjoyed L'Angle du Faubourg very much, and thought the food was exceptional for the money. The setting is modern, but not uncomfortably so. I would call the food traditional with some modern touches, The service was very good, especially the young woman sommelier, who suggested two wines that were exceptional. I think they would make your son feel at home. After dinner, it's a short walk to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysees.

Edited for typos.

Edited August 20, 2005 by Carlsbad (log)