Paris 2005 Trip

[Carlsbad]

I'm back from two weeks in Paris and will try to write about the experience over time. I have to confess that I failed to take any notes despite good intentions. I do recall clearly that the first night my wife and I were stranded in Philadelphia with no luggage, but that is another story. Thierry Burlot was scheduled for that night, but he will have to wait for the next trip.

We rented an apartment this time, which allowed us to try some of the cheeses, wines and other food items that are more difficult when staying in a hotel. Since our apartment was in the Palais Royale, we concentrated on shops in that area. I bought some wines at Legrand Filles et Fils, which had a nice selection and friendly people to assist. Their wine bar which spills onto the Gallerie Vivienne, was also very pleasant and had a small selection of interesting wines by the glass at quite reasonable prices. We also tried chocolates from Jean-Paul Hévin and Michel Cluize, bread from Max Poilane, and coffee at Torréfacteur Verlet. We made one trip to Fauchon, and I shopped along the rue Montorgueil. The cooked poulet fermier, stuffed with thyme, from one of the traiteurs there was outstanding. The spits were turning while I was there. I was going to return, but realized they were closed on Monday, so I went to Gargantua, where I bought one that was almost as good.

As with all trips, we didn't do or see nearly everything we had planned, and we learned quickly to supress the urge to try to lunch at all the places we wanted to try for dinner after several lunches. Even so, thirteen big dinners in a row are a bit much for me these days. Next time, I think we will leave some unplanned nights open to allow for light dinners and the places we discover while we are there.

The friend we were sharing the apartment with arrived before us, and had the first night to himself. He ended up at a small place called Aux Trois Oliviers, less than a hundred meters from the apartment at 37 bis rue Montpensier. He told us about the fish soup and the good welcome. It's a simple place with good provencal food and the friendliest of owners, Edouard and his lovely wife, who made us feel like family. Chef Bruno does the cooking. We had lunch there one day, which consisted of crudites followed by daube and magret, both served in metal pots with lots of fresh herbs and vegetables, and dessert. It was far too much to eat if there was any hope for dinner, but we made a good effort. We went back for drinks several times, and every night there is a party. I can vouch for the mojitos, which are topped off with champagne rather than soda. If we had had one of those unplanned nights, we would have tried the bouillabaisse, which has to be ordered ahead and is 38E per person. Next time we will.

We also had lunch at Casaluna, a Corsican just around the corner from our apartment at 6 rue de Beaujolais. John Talbott had reviewed it favorably, and we enjoyed it very much. The generous 15E lunch was a bargain, and the food, service and atmosphere were all excellent. Unfortunately, I can remember only my plat, seiche, which they translated as octopus, in a black sauce. I think it was large cuttlefish or squid, but it was good whatever it was.

Another lunch was at Sancerre, a wine bar at 22 Ave. Rapp. As we have several times before, we had omelettes, green salad and Sancerre, which were all as they should be. We also had lunch at Polidor mostly for sentimental reasons and because it was open on Sunday. The lentil salad was okay, if a little bland, the pintade was decent (the cabbage with it was very good), the price was right, and I didn't eat too much so I enjoyed dinner that night.

We visited the Delacroix Museum one day and had lunch one day at Les Deux Magots. I've been there for drinks before many times, but never for lunch. We had the friendliest waiter I've ever seen in a Parisian cafe. He not only offered to take our picture when he saw our camera, but when our friend mentioned I was suffering a little from a "gueule de bois" (thanks to those mojitos), he said he had the ultimate cure and brought me a couple of alka seltzers. They did seem to help. The food was quite respectable, but the charming waiter made the lunch special.

More later.

Edited to fix typos.

Edited August 8, 2005 by Carlsbad (log)

[Bux]

I'm not always sure where to draw the line between squid and cuttle fish, but seiche is definitely not octopus.

[chefzadi]

Seiche

[Bux]

Seiche

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That looks like cuttle fish to me.

[Carlsbad]

Mine looked more appetizing on the plate.

[chefzadi]

Seiche

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That looks like cuttle fish to me.

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I think the main difference in appearance between cuttlefish and squid is the head, squid has those "wings'

I leave it to others to wax poetic about the difference in flavor and texture (the Korean cuttlefish are delicious, btw) and to do the scientific breakdown.

King Phillip comes over from Germany soon with a bag full of cuttlefish.

[Carlsbad]

One of the places we enjoyed most on our trip was Mon Vieil Ami on the Ile St. Louis. It's been described here before very well. One friend decided he couldn't keep up with the eating schedule, so we changed the reservation to three, and had a table in the center back, where we could observe the kitchen. The seating is pretty close, but not uncomfortably so. Since we had a 9:30 reservation, the place was winding down a bit. The chef greeted us as we sat down, and we were able to talk to him quite a bit during the evening and watch him through the door as he calmly assembled the dishes. We were offered either a glass of pinot blanc or a mixed fruit and vegetable juice aperitif, which were included with the dinner. Both were very nice, but the juice was more interesting.

Our charming young waiter was very knowledgeable and helped us select the wines. Unfortunately, I haven't located the check from that night and didn't take any notes as I had intended. I recall a splendid, very dry Alsatian Reisling and a very good red wine- a lighter Burgundy I believe.

As has been discussed here before, the menu lists the vegetables before the meat, fish or fowl, and there is clearly an emphasis on fresh produce. For the entree, my wife had the pate en croute, which was excellent if the only vegetable in sight was a small accompanying green salad. It had a foie gras center, some delicious aspic and a crust that tasted like a crust should. The portion was enough for two, and our friend and I were forced to help her. Our friend had a dish of vegetables with fresh sardines, and he loved it. I had a dish of vegetables with an poached egg on top, although I'm having trouble remembering the exact ingredients. I recall that the vegetables were a combination that I often see, but the addition of the egg was unusual and made the dish. For the plats, our friend and I had a wonderful breast of veal for two, which was served boneless in a metal casserole with several vegetables, including carrots, potatoes, small green beans, and sweet snap peas. It would have been a healthy portion for three, and the meat was nicely carmelized and the sauce was light but very flavorful. It's something that almost anyone would find comforting. My wife had her own little pot with fish filet with crisp skin, a dorade I believe, also with interesting vegetables, although I was too interested in mine to pay much attention. They ran out of the tarte chocolat, so my wife (and friend) had an excellent peach soup, and they both raved about it. I had an apricot dessert the details of which are hazy. I believe it was something of a compote with an unusual ice cream, but I can't remember what it was, which is not a reflection on the dish.

We enjoyed everything so much, we decided to switch things around and return a week later, another Sunday and the last day they were open before closing for two weeks. Our fourth again backed out so we got the same table and the same waiter. The chef greeted us warmly, but everyone in the kitchen seemed busy getting ready for the closure so we saw less of him. The waiter remembered what we had ordered the week before and helped us order the wines again. As the evening became less hectic we chatted with him about restaurants. We had a different Reisling, which the check identifies only as Osterberg. I recall it as also very dry, but perhaps less fruity and with a more mineral quality than the one on the first night, but equally as enjoyable. Our red wine was a very nice Charmes Chambertin, which I loved, but it was quite expensive at 84E, so I should have.

Our friend and I had a mijotee de legumes, each of the 7 or 8 vegetable perfectly cooked and retaining its own taste, in a broth flavored with spices that made me think of Morocco. I soaked up every last drop with the very good bread. My wife had a jambon plate with some grilled bread. Again the portion was very large, and we had to help her somewhat. It appeared to be extremely flavorful Serrano ham to me, but could well have been something else. Whatever it was, it was excellent. My plat was a large cooked green (heirloom?) tomato sliced horizonally and filled with small pieces of what I remember as tete de veau, served with a small, flavorful chicken breast. (I had quite a bit of head and feet on this trip, pork and veal, so I may be confused as to the stuffing. The check only identifies it as "tomato et poulette".) If anyone has had this dish, I would appreciate a clarification. My wife and friend both had a large cassarole of duck breast with vegetables and I believe more exotic spices. They didn't come close to finishing it, but I was in no shape to help at this stage of the trip. They both had their chocolate tart and I had a tarte du jour, the details of which I can't remember. With 3 verveine infusions, the two bottles of fairly expensive wine, and 2 large Badoit, the total tab was 270E for three on this second night. The entrees were 8-10E, the mains 21E and the desserts were 8E, and they have some very nice lesser priced wines, so the total tab can be much lower. We all thought it was a place worthy of a return whenever possible.

Edited for typos and to add the duck plat.

[Carlsbad]

We had dinner with our two friends at Aux Lyonnais the fourth night of our trip. One reason for the final choice of restaurants this trip was the fact that our friends would be with us. One of them is not as adventuresome as we are when it comes to food and tends to order house wines or sometimes no wine at all. The other is just the opposite, he'll try almost anything good and likes to order finer, more expensive wines. The latter also dislikes cramped restaurants, especially if they are hot. For that reason, I eliminated many of the smaller bistros I would have liked to try, but I included Aux Lyonnais because I we had not bee there before. Although the night started out a little rocky, everyone had a good time and thought the food was very good.

One friend and I had the set menu, which has a couple choices for each course. We both had the generous charcuterie starter, which was excellent. My wife had the oeuf cocotte, which she raved about, and I forget what our other friend had. I had the quenelle with two small crayfish, which at first seemed too small, but was the right amount. It was light with an excellent quite rich sauce, and I would order it again. I can't remember what the other menu main was, but our friend enjoyed it very much. The less adventuresome friend had the Noix de veau, which he said was good. My wife had the pigeonneau, which she ordered rose, but the breast was underdone to the point it was cold in the middle. The desserts were all good, if not terribly exciting. With aperitifs, two bottles of Moulin au Vent and coffees, the total tab for four was 238E. We'll probably go back next trip, but without the friends this time.

[Carlsbad]

We had one of our best dinners of the trip at Les Ormes. I had not been to the old location, nor to Bellecour, the restaurant that formerly occupied the space, and to which tribute is paid by keeping the quenelle in the manner of Bellecour on the menu. I thought the restaurant was very comfortable and handsomely decorated- intimate without being crowded. Part of that feeling may have stemmed from the fact that there were only three other tables occupied, by one American couple who had obviously followed Stephane Mole's cooking for some time, one young British couple, and a French couple. I think the fact that it was July 28 had something to do with the small crowd. The very capable maitre d'hotel, dressed in a black suit, handled all the service quite well.

The food was outstanding. For starters, my wife and our friend had gratin of blue lobster that was rich and drew high praise, and I had langostines with a salad of vegetables, which I enjoyed very much. For mains the other two had a comforting, yet elegant jarret de veau, fork tender and without any greasiness, with light gnocchi. I had an outstanding loin of lamb. For dessert, my wife had her customary chocolate moelleux, which was nicely liquid in the center, and our friend and I had a peach soup with an unusual glace that made it very interesting. Unfortunately, I took no notes and I can't remember exactly what it was. Following the meal, M. Mole came out and talked with everyone.

With three coups, a bottle of Condrieu and a bottle of a very nice 1996 Cantenac Brown (now maybe you understand why I'm having trouble with the details of the dessert), a bottle of Badoit, and three infusions, the total tab was 373E for three. We will return, and I would recommend this place very highly.

[Carlsbad]

Our big dinner this trip was at Taillevent, which did not disappoint. We had a nice table in the main dining room, which is a beautifully done space with a traditional look that is enhanced with modern art. The style of the room seemed to be in keeping with the cuisine that was to come. The service was extremely gracious from top to bottom.

We all had the menu degustation, which I think is a bargain for 130E, especially compared to other three star places. I would call the food traditional, with enough innnovation to make it interesting, and our menu had a nod to provence. My wife retained a copy of the small menu and the check is somewhat detailed, making recollection of the meal much easier.

After amuses which I can't recall exactly, we started with a refreshing veloute de tourteau refraichi, tomates et coriandre. It was one of the highlights of the meal. The flavors of crab and tomato were intense, the cilantro was subtle, and the dish was very rich. This was followed by epeauture du pays de Sault en risotto, cuisses de grenouille dorees. The "risotto" had a fine texture and flavor and the frog's legs were nicely browned and added interest to the dish. The next dish was rouget barbet poele en aioli, brandade de merlu. It sang with flavors of the south. The brandade was stuffed into an intensely favored red pepper. Next was agneau des Pyrenees au piment d'Espelette, jus a la sariette. It was cooked to a perfect medium rare to rare and was very flavorful meat, enhanced slightly by the pepper and jus. After chevre frais served with tapenade toasts and a delightful mescun salad, we had cristalline a la rhubarbe et aux fraise and then gourmandise au chocolate au lait et au thym. Both desserts were memorable.

We had aperitifs (2 coups of Dom Perignon and some dry sherry), a bottle of very good Cassis (a perfect choice with the soup and the risotto- it seemed like a different wine when the dishes changed), a bottle of Pibernon white (also excellent), and a bottle of old vine Cotes Roussillon 1999, which was perfect with the lamb. As an anniversary gift for my wife and I, our friend ordered a bottle of 1969 Vin Jaune to go with the cheese. (I was worried about the cost when I saw the fuss the staff made over this wine as it was decanted, and I was actually relieved when I saw that it was 195E.) I had heard of the wine (and it was discussed recently on here), but had never had one and we all found it delighful. The total bill for four was 1036E, and we all vowed to return.

[Carlsbad]

Just wondering if anyone is reading this?

[Bux]

Just wondering if anyone is reading this? 

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You could ask. Oh, yes, I'm reading. Are you taking attendence? Will there be a quiz?

[John Talbott]

Just wondering if anyone is reading this? 

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Yup.

[docsconz]

Me too I have enjoyed your descriptions very much, but in the course of my own trip I haven't had much to add yet.

[Laidback]

I certainly enjoyed your reports since they reflect some of my experiences as well...Aux Lyonnais, Mon Vieil Ami, Les Ormes, Taillevent....thank you for your efforts.

[Carlsbad]

Thanks. I was just checking. Bux, no attendence taken, but the quiz will be given after the final entry.

[BigboyDan]

Thanks.  I was just checking.  Bux, no attendence taken, but the quiz will be given after the final entry. 

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I'm reading; always intereseted in detailed foodie memories.