Reds

[Florida Jim]

1994 Muga, Torre Muga:

My wife took one smell and sip and asked “why?” Even the cork smelled like a lumber yard. There is fruit here but it is disjointed on both the nose and palate; there is structure but it is obscured by a mouthful of wood tannins; there is some attempt at ripe flavor but the extraction takes it past the point of integration; in short, this could have been much better had not this fine old Rioja house decided to compete with the Silver Oaks of the world. We didn’t (couldn’t) finish it.

2003 Campos Reales, Tempranillo:

Nose of black raspberry, stewed strawberries and cinnamon with hints of earth and other black fruits; vibrant and concentrated in the mouth with a worsted texture and a seamless delivery; long, balanced finish. An integrated, richly flavored and textured wine that is delicious with or without food. Imported by Stacole Co., retails at $8, and is, IMO, both better made and better balanced than the Torre Muga (at one-tenth the price).

2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Cuvee Tardive:

There is a baked, dark fruit element here that distinguishes it from the regular cuvee such that it reminds me of a very ripe Morey St. Denis wine, maybe, a Clos de la Roche or Clos St. Denis; powerful aromatics that seem brooding and latent; equally powerful black fruit and earth tones on the palate with sap, concentration and intensity; long, structured finish. This is not even remotely what folks think about when someone says “Beaujolais;” rather it is gutsy, full-throttle stuff that will, IMO, take years to evolve into what it can be; still the balance and stuffing are certainly there for the ride.

2002 Dom. Bouchard Pere et Fils, Savigny-les-Beaune:

Toothsome and fleshy with a solid structure and, after an hour or so, some very clean but distinct Beaune complexity developing; lots of fruit here but well balanced, grounded and bright; spectacular with a dish of pasta with sautéed golden chanterelles in a light cream sauce. About $35 on a restaurant wine list and worth it.

1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vnyd.:

For its first five years, this wine showed simple but with lots of fat, sweet fruit. It has become more streamlined but also more complex; damp (but clean) moss, milk chocolate and cranberry scents make brief appearances and accent the elderberry/raspberry nose and bright palate. Good balance, structure and sustain, this will certainly age another five or more years effortlessly, but it’s crisp and layered now – and that will do nicely.

(Wasn’t Patricia Green making for this house in 1998? I’ve liked a lot of her Oregon bottlings since she’s been on her own; if she made this, it speaks well of her style and learning curve.)

Best, Jim