All over the lot

[Florida Jim]

N/V Lassale, Champagne Brut Premier Cru:

Pretty wine, if you like Extra Dry. There is some RS and the mousse is quite frothy. Not my style.

2003 Neyers, Chardonnay Carneros:

Smells like urine yet tastes pretty clean and crisp. But not for $20.

2003 L’Hortus, Rosé (Languedoc):

Moderately full flavored, medium intensity aromatics and nothing out of place. Pleasant. About $10.

2003 Bonny Doon, Syrah:

Olive juice mixed with unripe wine. DNPIM. About $13.

2002 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Mestizaje:

Made from bobal, this is a very dark, rich, character driven wine with fruit sweet aromatics, dark fruit flavors, excellent concentration, layers of flavor, well structured, nice balance, grip and length. 13.5% alcohol and worth the $12 price. Definitely has a shelf life, too. Very impressive.

2003 Carmenet, Merlot:

Innocuous and dilute; mix with water and you’ve got pink water. About $10.

2002 Torres, Viña Sol (375):

Made from the Parellada grape (usually blended into Cava) this smells of citrus, peach and rain water; tastes of ripe apples with hints of pineapple and licorice; has a creamy but not manipulated texture; is medium bodied, squeaky clean, bright, well balanced, and has astonishing length. At 11% alcohol and $3 for a 375 ml, I will buy a lot of this. Lip-smackingly good, now.

2001 Lavrados de Feitoria, Douro:

A soft wine with scents of strawberry syrup and herbs; tart flavors that follow the nose and a short, slightly green finish. Others liked this better than me; the green elements were distracting and slightly mildewed (not corked). 12.5% alcohol and about $7.

2003 Anselmi, San Vincenzo:

Juicy fruit gum, citrus and white grape juice on the nose; viscous, medium body, flavors that follow the nose, on a round but bright palate that shows concentration and juiciness; a medium length, clean finish. A mix of garganega with probably some trebbiano de Soave and chardonnay makes this both complex and complete. Mouthwatering wine with enough body and texture to stand against lighter sauces and white meat. 12.7% alcohol and about $10; ready now. Yum!

2003 Corte Giara, Soave:

Not as juicy or as concentrated as the Anselmi; much more a wine for drinking without food or with salads and such. Well made and balanced in a lightweight, elegant style. 12.5% alcohol and about $8.

2003 Bodegas Emeterio Fernández, La Legua:

This 96% tempranillo, 4% grenacha joven wine from the Cigales DO (adjacent to Ribera del Duero) has a fruit forward nose of dark plums, currants and nutmeg with hints of raspberry; the palate echoes those flavors with a medium bodied, light weight, satin textured delivery that is at once elegant, dusty, polished, persistent and has good grip. At 13.5% alcohol and about $7, this is splendid lunch and light dinner wine and will easily cellar a year or two.

2003 St. Supery, Sauvignon Blanc:

Straight-forward, clean and crisp sauvignon with not too much cat pee, not too much grass and a pleasant helping of grapefruit across both the nose and palate. Delicious.

2003 Ken Wright Cellars, Pinot Noir Carter Vnyd.:

Drink this today, not tomorrow. At 15% alcohol, you can feel the alcohol peeking at you from behind the door; go through and this wine will turn into a mixed drink; nice aromatics, no overt oak and a sappy, delicious palate today – but it will go quickly; beware!

(Brian Loring, you would love this wine!)

2002 Merry Edwards, Pinot Noir Klopp Vnyd.:

At 14.7% alcohol this is too oaky on the nose and bordering on flat on the palate. Drink very soon and be prepared for a solid dose of new wood on the nose. Not my style, despite having liked earlier Merry Edwards efforts.

Best, Jim