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Petrossian Bakery, NYC


zakuska

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I've been tasked with ordering a cake for a large-ish family party (23 people) this weekend, and the guest of honor has a soft spot for chocolate and cherries. I've considered Payard's Sacher Cake (I know, it has raspberry, not cherry) and the Black Forest cakes made by the Manhattan branch of Two Little Red Hens and Petrossian's NY bakery, respectively.

I am leaning towards the Petrossian BF cake, since it's more elegant than the traditional-looking TLRH version, and was wondering if anyone has had recent experiences with the pastries there. I believe that the current Petrossian pastry chef is Catherine Lahitette, formerly of Lespinasse.

Any input would be greatly appreciated -- thanks.

"She was a recluse," he said. "Her idea of a good time was to sauté mushrooms at midnight with a brandy and watch Dracula."
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Just had a delectable cinnamon and pear torte from Petrossian over the weekend and quality still seems very high as when the boutique first opened, even with the change in pastry chefs a couple of years ago. Their pains au chocolat were also very well made; buttery, flakey, nice not overly large size, just perfect.

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I haven't tried Petrossian's Black Forest cake, but i am sure it is first rate.  I am more concerned about Payard, since I have noticed a decline in quality there the past few years.

I wouldn't hesitate to order from Petrossian.

I would agree with that statement, the pastries I've had at Petrossian in the past year or so have consistently been superior to what Payard has to offer. To me, Two Little Red Hens is not only a notch below in terms of elegance but in taste as well. I think Petrossian is your best bet amongst those three.

"A chicken is just an egg's way of making another egg." Samuel Butler
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Thanks for the feedback. Decided to go with Petrossian.

I tried the individual-sized version of their Black Forest cake, which bears scant resemblance to a classic Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte. It has a chocolate cake base, topped by a wonderfully light chocolate mousse studded with unpitted kirsch-soaked cherries. This is covered with whipped cream and fine chocolate shavings and decorated on top with what look like two ultra-glossy decorative cherries: one caramel colored, and the other dark brown and perched on an edible swirled-chocolate stick. Some crispy chocolate "beebees" are scattered about as well.

It truly was delicious -- light as a feather, not too sweet, and not at all "boozy" as these cakes can sometimes be, since the kirsch is only in the embedded cherries (the cake part did not taste like it had been brushed with kirsch syrup). The cherries provide a juicy, aromatic contrast to the smooth mousse.

Although it's apples to oranges, I thought this was more delicate and suave than Payard's moussey hazelnut-flavored Louvre Cake, which I tasted the previous day. I am looking forward to seeing how the full-sized version of Petrossian's BF cake turns out.

"She was a recluse," he said. "Her idea of a good time was to sauté mushrooms at midnight with a brandy and watch Dracula."
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