Kabab Café

[g.johnson]

Yes, the scotch was really, really good.  It was like walking through a pine forest.

Peat rather than pine, no?

Johnson Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland:

A tree might be a show in Scotland as a horse in Venice. At St. Andrews Mr. Boswell found only one, and recommended it to my notice; I told him it was rough and low, or looked as if I thought so. This, said he, is nothing to another a few miles off. I was still less delighted to hear that another tree was not to be seen nearer. Nay, said a gentleman that stood by, I know but of this and that tree in the county.

[stefanyb]

One small correction, the pizzle was lamb and it was served in cream sauce, I kid you not.

[Charles Smith]

It was indeed a memorable meal-

The wines, at least what I can remember-

Whites

2000 Quintarelli Secco Ca da Merlo Blanco

1996 JM Boillot Puligny Montrachet

Reds

A 1999 Portugese Red- missed the name

a Cab France from the Loire- another missed name

2000 Mad Fish Shiraz- western Australia

1998 Domaine L'Arlot Nuits St. Geoges, Clos des Florets

All these dishes are excellent foils for wine. The scotch was memorable- the nose was all about bandaids and iodine and peat- great stuff.

[stefanyb]

Wait! We forgot udder! And the great bread with udder fat. That was my hands down favorite mouthful of the evening. I guess it was cow's udder and I assume its both milchadich and fleishadich

[jaybee]

One small correction, the pizzle was lamb and it was served in cream sauce, I kid you not.

Come again?

[SobaAddict70]

One small correction, the pizzle was lamb and it was served in cream sauce, I kid you not.

Come again?

*hums the theme music from The Twilight Zone*

SA

[Robert Nesta Marley]

One small correction, the pizzle was lamb and it was served in cream sauce, I kid you not.

Come again?

JB!!!!

i ate quite a bit of the sweetbread & tongues' dishes ( ), despite a warning from ali that there would be much food. so i didn't have but a bite of the pizzle.

but it wasn't only because i was full.

i did not know what pizzle was, and i was all set to shovel more food in (it looked so good, with the cream sauce!) when someone told me. i can't remember who--it might've been charles--but it seriously affected my appetite.

the red from the loire was a production by claude courtois, a big wierdo who makes funky wines.

muchas gracias to darling nina for organizing a wonderful gathering with lovely company. it was a pleasure to meet simon & charles, and always great fun to dine with the ladies--you know who you are!

signed

bobby.

[Wilfrid]

I rubbed Simon's head ...

Too much information.

[Joy]

I brought an Ardbheg 10yr old Islay malt which seemed to vanish rather rapidly.  My absolute fave scotch.

For those of you interested in this scotch, I found it at Ambassador Liquors (1020 2nd Ave) for $45.99

[Sandra Levine]

Finally got here with 6 others and it turned out that ranitidine and I had been there ten years ago.

The cuisine at this tiny restaurant is as everyone has said -- truly extraordinary. Ali is charming as well as talented and makes the experience as well as the food memorable. Our group had a more mainstream meal than the one served in late January -- no pizzle, no udder -- no matter. We did have brains and sweetbreads, both dishes displaying a wonderful contrast between the soft, rich, melting texture (especially the brains) and bright, citrusy flavors. The seven of us drank 5 bottles of red wine -- maybe someone else will remember what they were!

[Simon Majumdar]

I brought an Ardbheg 10yr old Islay malt which seemed to vanish rather rapidly.  My absolute fave scotch.

For those of you interested in this scotch, I found it at Ambassador Liquors (1020 2nd Ave) for $45.99

That's about right. In the Uk it's £25 and at the airport they had it on sale for two bottles for £40. I brought one to the dinner, the other got me through the blizzard

S

[yvonne johnson]

Ardbeg....a bonnie sight

[g.johnson]

I brought an Ardbheg 10yr old Islay malt which seemed to vanish rather rapidly.  My absolute fave scotch.

For those of you interested in this scotch, I found it at Ambassador Liquors (1020 2nd Ave) for $45.99

That's about right. In the Uk it's £25 and at the airport they had it on sale for two bottles for £40. I brought one to the dinner, the other got me through the blizzard

S

It's under $40 at Warehouse Wines and Spirits on Broadway and St. Marks Place. (Is it called St. Marks Place at that point?)

[Stephanie]

I brought an Ardbheg 10yr old Islay malt which seemed to vanish rather rapidly.  My absolute fave scotch.

For those of you interested in this scotch, I found it at Ambassador Liquors (1020 2nd Ave) for $45.99

That's about right. In the Uk it's £25 and at the airport they had it on sale for two bottles for £40. I brought one to the dinner, the other got me through the blizzard

S

It's under $40 at Warehouse Wines and Spirits on Broadway and St. Marks Place. (Is it called St. Marks Place at that point?)

It's Astor Place there. St. Mark's Place begins east of 3rd Avenue.

[Stephanie]

Now that I find myself living a mere 20-minute or so walk from Kabab Cafe, I'd love to join some eGulleteers one evening. However, I'm a real wuss when it comes to offal/organ meats, so are there any other specialties of Ali's that someone can recommend? (Or conversly, things to avoid.)

[Joy]

I had chicken there for the first time last week and it was delicious, who knew?

No actually I'm being serious, the chicken was great and it was my first time. His whole grilled fish is always good, and I've never not loved anything involving shrimp. (Double negative be damned).

Edited March 5, 2003 by Joy (log)

[Orik]

The seven of us drank 5 bottles of red wine -- maybe someone else will remember what they were!

At least one of the bottles was a 94 Rioja Alta, another one a 99 Conn Creek Cab. I think I also spotted a 99 c.n.d.p (or was it a 2000)...it's all a blur.

The great food (esp. the brains, although next time I'll try and get some more exotic parts), Ali's personality and (of course) the company made for a lovely evening. We have to thank a certain boroughphilic eGulleteer for introducing us to the place and for all of her other recommendations...

[ahr]

Killer sweetbreads.

New motto: Always Trust La Niña.

[La Niña]

You just figured that out?

[Stone]

i found myself in Queens again today, so I stopped by Ali's Kabab Cafe. It sure lived up to expectations.

A tiny place on Steinway Street, with Ali and an assistant cooking in a tiny open kitchen up front. I didn't see any menus around, so I just asked Ali what was good. He asked if I wanted meat, and I asked for lamb. Then he asked if I wanted something to start. Of course.

First, he brought over a hummus plate. I was amazingly good. The hummus was not as thick as usuall, but had great flavor. Little fresh made falafels were crunch and not at all greasy. Slices of apple and fried spinach leaves were an excellent addition. Overall, the spices were earthy and deliciious.

Next, Ali brought over stuffed lamb with yogurt and sauteed garlic spiniach. The lamb was superb. It was stuffed with a mix of spiced ground lamb, nuts and raisons. The lamb itself was cooked perfectly, tender and just falling apart. The only flaw was that the stuffing was a little dry. But the taste was terrific.

$26 for the food and two sodas.

Edited July 22, 2005 by slkinsey (log)

[gaf]

Stars Over Astoria New York City Entry #89 Kabab Café

My initial excursion to the bustling village of Astoria was to dine at Mombar Café, whose decor I described - and still describe - as one of the wonders of the New York dining world. Soon several friends gently took me to task. They didn't deny - how could they? - that the ambiance at Mombar's was thoroughly otherworldly, a love sonnet from restauranteur to diner. However, they noted that just down the street Mustafa's brother, Ali, was a genius behind the stove.

Let me not cause any quarrels between siblings - I understand that they cook together on occasion - but having returned from Kabab Café, I can attest that Ali is one of New York's star chefs. And he works his magic in a space that makes Momofuku or Prune - or Mombar - seem spacious by comparison. My Chicago home has a larger closet. The decor at Kabab nods in the direction of the odd and self-taught, but the cuisine is assured.

Since four of our party of six knew Ali El-Sayed (after eating at KC once every diner knows Ali), we were treated to Ali's revelations. Kabab Café has a menu, but in practice it doesn't count for much.

As appetizers we were presented with three plates: an Egyptian antipasto plate of light, fragrant and oddly shaped falafel, silky humus, and an array of crispy fried greens. It was splendid. A second plate contained slivers of woodsy mushroom tart in a crisp phyllo dough. The final appetizer was marinated sardines. Not the now trendy fresh sardines, but sardines in a marinate that never overpowered.

While Ali offered goat in a pomegranate glaze, we selected duck two ways and a plate of fried tilapia. The grandest dish of the evening - one of the most heavenly duck preparations I have ever had - was Ali's "Marsh Duck," a perfectly stewed wild duck with accompaniments appropriate for such untamed meat, including caramelized green almonds, lotus root, and bamboo. These flavors demanded a new way of conceiving duck, a novel taste register. The second, domestic duck, roasted with honey and served with squash was memorable as well, although lacked the complexity of the first plate. Our tilapia, fried whole, was a sight to be seen, even if mild tilapia does not - and did not - have the evocative flavors of the poultry pair.

Dessert was another combination plate: this time Ali's Egyptian sweets. Each was a honeyed success, particularly the bird's nest and his homemade yogurt.

If there is a chef's Believe-It-Or-Not Chef Ali will surely receive the award for the most culinary miracles per square foot of kitchen. This is a tiny restaurant that no one who cares about the possibilities of cuisine can afford to pass. And Ali's Marsh Duck demands to be bronzed.

Kabab Café

35-12 Steinway Street (near Astoria Boulevard)

Queens (Astoria)

718-728-9858

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

[cdh]

I agree that Ali is New York treasure. I'm surprised at one thing that did not catch your attention, however. On the Egyptian mixed plate, while the falafel and hummus are wonderful, it is the foul and baba ghanouj that are truly transcendent. Ali gets the eggplant smoked to a rich powerful flavor unlike the baba anywhere else. Absolutely delicious. The foul is an uncommon dish, a fava bean puree, that is more interesting than hummus, I think.

[gaf]

I stand corrected, the foul was transcendent - a grease stain must have covered my notes.

[cdh]

[BryanZ]

Made my first visit to the place last night. Very solid, fun night out. Service leaves a lot to be desired. Simple things like silverware, plates, glasses are apparently precious commodities. Things do not proceed quickly here. There was a long wait for food to first start coming out and again after we'd ordered some additional sardines. Ali's generally friendly nature helps offset these inconveniences, almost.

Of the offal dishes, we were served a collection of greatest hits. Veal brains, sweetbreads, tongue, lamb cheek. All were very good and interesting, but perhaps tasted a bit sameish across the board. There seems to be a heavy reliance on lemon and brined items like capers and olives. Of the offal items, I think I enjoyed the brains and cheek most of all. The brains were custardy, which worked well with the briny, caper sauce. The lamb cheeks actually tasted like lamb and were luxuriously creamy. The egg on top certainly helped and also contributed an interesting textural contrast. I appreciated the other, non-offal dishes, however, simply as a means to prevent some palate fatigue.

Of the non-offal dishes we had a sweet-sour cauliflower salad, a cucumber-yogurt salad, the mixed appetizer platter, and grilled sardines. All of these were also quite good, though I wasn't the hugest fan of the cauliflower. The sweet-sour dressing was nice, but I wish the cauliflower itself had been roasted longer to improve both its flavor and texture. As others have noted, the appetizer platter is really quite good. The hummus is creamy and well-balanced, the babaganoush exhibits wonderful smokiness, the falafel are creatively spiced, and foul with quite different than versions I'd had in the past. I think over the course of the meal I must've consumed at least four pita, dipping in and scooping up everything in site.

All in, we paid $40/person after tax and tip. We'd brought wine, so that wasn't an issue. Again, this is a very quirky restaurant and for every fan I can also see someone who would hate it. It's clearly a labor of love and for that reason I can see why people have such fervent dedication to the place.

Edited August 5, 2009 by BryanZ (log)