Tasting Menus in the Bay Area

[rhiannonstone]

I know a lot of restaurants offer tasting menus, but it's been my experience that some of them just do it because it's expected of them, and they don't really put a lot of thought or care into it. So which Bay area restaurants offer tasting menus that are worth the time, effort, and price? I'm especially interested in ones that offer a well-thought-out wine pairing option, since my boyfriend and I are looking to expand our wine knowledge beyond our insatiable love for pinot noir and sangiovese.

[Bond Girl]

I've not had a tasting menu in the bay area in all my visits to SF. However, if you are willing to drive to Los Gatos, Manresa's tasting definitely has most of the restaurants I know beat.

[zeitoun]

I would agree with Manresa, although I've never been there. I hope to go during my next trip to the bay area.

This past year I did the tasting at Gary Danko which was good but I was far from being blown away. I also felt that it was way too much food.

I made a terrible mistake by ordering the tasting menu at the Fifth floor (just before Laurent Gras left) on a subsequent trip. The wine selection was fantastic. The head sommelier (Belinda Chang I think?) does a great job, but the menu was so uninspiring. It was "foam of this and foam of that" from beginning to end. A complete debacle. I don't know where it stands nowadays since Melissa Perello took over the kitchen.

[Bond Girl]

Laurent Gras is no longer at the fifth floor room, the new chef is Melissa Perello. Her food is more oriented towards the basic, and defeats the purpose of a tasting menu.

edit: that's just my opinion.

[samgiovese]

Yeah, I agree with Bond Girl. I think Manresa is great...even has it over TFL...my opinion, not hers (Oh, God!...I know I'll catch hell for this!...I'm NOT trying to compare the two...just my honest evaluation & opinion!!!...OK...enough disclaimers!) Don't get me wrong...TFL is a sublime experience...I just think Kinch takes a few more chances and is a bit more playful than Keller...Just my opinion!!!

Mer Lot & I are going to Manresa tomorrow night with Carolyn Tillie & Shawn. I'll let her comment on her impressions, as it is their first time there.

Edited January 28, 2005 by samgiovese (log)

[melkor]

Rather than have this thread degrade into yet another advertisement for Manresa perhaps we could try and provide a few suggestions for where else rhiannonstone might want to investigate? The French Laundry and Manresa get endless discussion here, it’s safe to presume they are both already on the list of places she is considering.

Aside from TFL and Manresa in past people have posted positive things about Michael Mina, Gary Danko, La Toque, Chez Panisse, Fifth Floor, Campton Place, Fleur de Lys, Jardiniere, and others. Granted, I dislike several of those restaurants but I think some of them are worth seeking out.

La Toque in Rutherford does an excellent job pairing wine with their tasting menu. Their tasting menu has few enough courses that each dish has its own wine, and you have some chance of waking up without a hangover. I think the tasting menu is $90 and this time of year they are likely to be offering a black truffle tasting menu at a higher price as well. The food is quite good too, but their strength is the food & wine pairings.

[pim]

Of course the French Laundry and Manresa, no question.

Despite my very recent disappointing meal, I still found enough fascinating sparks on the tasting menu at Campton Place that I would say warrant at least another look in. I plan to go again -yes, yes not on a Monday this time.

I also due for another trip to Mina as well, didn't like it last time but I thought I'd give them another chance too, perhaps next time I'll try the tasting menu there and see how they do.

Edited January 28, 2005 by pim (log)

[IrishCream]

I think this is an excellent general Bay Area topic and one that should be pinned so that the question need not be answered over and over again for every visitor.

I do a lot of traveling and it would be a great resource if this topic was pinned for cities around the country, as well as the rest of the world.

In which case Manresa and French Laundry absolutely should be emphasized given recent postive experiences by eG members at both. The rest of the restaurants mentioned, except perhaps Chez Panisse, have received mixed reviews. Some quite poor reviews.

I also find this: "Rather than have this thread degrade into yet another advertisement for Manresa" very odd. What in the world are you talking about?

Edit to add: I am glad to see that while I was posting Pim concurred.

[samgiovese]

Another place in the South Bay/Peninsula that gets high marks for its tasting menu is Chez TJ in Mountain View.

Edited January 28, 2005 by samgiovese (log)

[pim]

Another place in the South Bay/Peninsula that gets high marks for its tasting menu is Chez TJ in Mountain View.

←

I've heard good things about this place from very reputable sources. I've been meaning to try but haven't made it yet. Soon I hope.

[EdS]

Here is an article describing the history of Chez TJ.

I was last there over 12 years ago so I have little to contribute. I went with a date. The location was a converted house in downtown Mountain View. My date and I were offered our own dining room down a hall for the evening and we accepted. Very romantic. The menu was prix fixe. I don't recall much about what exactly we ate but I do remember thinking that the food and service were both the best I had in my life up to that time. Sadly, reading the article above, it looks like the chef passed away a little after that time.

[Rebel Rose]

Has anyone been to Chez TJ lately? I've been hearing a lot of buzz about it, but haven't been there yet.

[et alors]

Has anyone been to Chez TJ lately?  I've been hearing a lot of buzz about it, but haven't been there yet.

←

I went there for my birthday and I was impressed by everything. It was as close to a French 2 star at a SV Restaraunt as I can remember. Quiet, elegant service, beautiful well crafted food.

[MaxH]

Rebel Rose asked about Chez TJ experiences. (My own first online comments on food there, "Recent experiences with Chez TJ," were posted 15 years ago, and the Most Recent Note was last month, after new chef Christopher Kostow settled in; also posted fairly detailed history of the restaurant here and there, though evidently not this site. (Actually dining again there soon.)

On the generic subject of tasting menus, if you identify a restaurant that seems good, and that's passionate about the food, often it works to ask for a tasting menu even if not advertised. If that doesn't connect for some reason, request that they "bring you some dishes" that are good. Capable chefs often resonate with this. I've seen it work in a remarkable range of locations.

Finally, Irish Cream, abandon hope. No matter how conspicuously you answer Frequently Asked Questions, people will still ask them. On the other hand, the ability to search most of these fora for good material on the subject is powerful. (The most basic FAQ advice ever, on electronic fora, in my opinion anyway, is "Search, before you ask.")

-- Max

[MaxH]

A "tasting menu" at TJ this week included some courses seen in February, and reminders that even in a day of food fads, a skilled and tasteful chef can bring out potential. High points were again the delicate salad of small octopus, crisp heart-of-palm slices, and delicate herb vinaigrette, a game of fine contrasts. (Even if not everyone admires the look of octopus. It was tender and delicate. Try closing your eyes if you don't like its looks.) Sous-vide preparation of perfectly cooked rare beef with garnishes including a broth with hint of star anise and cinnamon, and piece of Chanterelle mushroom, flavors skillfully palying together. Vocabulary on the menu card (one journalist already balked at "declinasion of duck") is Chef Kostow's doing, he seems to like word play.

Kostow's and his predecessor's (Joshua Skenes's) cooking demarcate, so to say, Chez TJ's kitchen from years under management including TJ himself (Tom McCombie, RIP 1994), Peggy Aoki, Andrew Trice (1995-2000), and Kirk Bruderer (early 00s). Those chefs liked to nod to the hearty. When the kitchen was "on," as it usually was, you'd see (as a friend puts it) rustic traditions sharpened up with creative sauces. Sauces were Andrew Trice's formal specialty by the way (he's now in Savannah, as Angel's BBQ and catering). Even Bruderer liked to make a big salad of fresh big Lima beans and a few wild mushrooms, or serve a meat course on a bed of lentils. The relaxed house interior and quiet service are unchanged. The kitchen now is more international, intellectual, more what readers of Internet fine-dining fora will expect. (Critics even raise the issue, though briefly, of compact portions, a sure sign of departure.) Impressive departure, with Kostow's experience and assurance. Not without nostalgia I look forward to more occasions to eat there.