Gulf Coast and Blues Trail

[Tonyfinch]

Flying into Atlanta this Summer and driving down to Orange Beach Ala.where we're staying in a condo.for about 10 days before driving up through the Mississippi Delta through Natchez,to Oxford,Claksdale and on to Memphis and across to Nashville,before dropping down to Atllanta and home.

Any suggestions,fine dining especially,very gratefully received.

Stellabella,where are you in Georgia? Maybe you could cook the Majumdar Bros. dinner for my wife and I instead (well,if you don't ask you don't get right?).

[Bolivar Petit Corona]

Natchez Trace Parkway?

[Tonyfinch]

Er..dunno.Natchez, Mississippi.Is that the same place? But at least you replied.

[Bolivar Petit Corona]

No, it's a National Park/Road from Natchez to Nashville:

http://www.natcheztrace.com/parkway

[Tonyfinch]

Thanks for that.Any eating suggestions?

[Bolivar Petit Corona]

Well, I've not spent much time in Natchez, Oxford, or Clarksdale.  But, Oxford being a college town, you should have no problems there.

The Natchez Trace would be interesting, history wise, to take north, until you have to head toward Oxford, probably just South of Tupelo, on Highway 6.

You may visit Elvis Presley's birthplace (a home) in Tupelo.

In Memphis, BBQ would be the way to go, with Gridley's being a popular choice.

[Rail Paul]

Aperture is sponsoring a photo exhibit in Biloxi featuring Blues players and the Delta. The exhibition has been on tour for 3 years.

A NY Times article featured a Chicago writer's pilgrimage to Clarkdale where his grandfather share cropped in the 1930s. If I can find it, I'll post the info. Lots of local commentary on the area from old-timers who endured the poverty and oppression. Apparently there's a cottage industry emerging of old timers who play and reminisce.

Aperture on the Delta

[Ron Johnson]

Tony:

Oxford:  City Grocery

Memphis: Barbeque: Cozy Corner; Interstate; Rendevouz

             Upscale: Raji's; Cafe Society; Cielo

             Locals only: Fino's Italian Grocery; Hueys; the North End.

              Bars:  Alex's Tavern (the best burger); Ernestine & Hazels (best jukebox); Zinnies (best drinks).

Have fun and remember that Beale street is for tourists.

[Bolivar Petit Corona]

Will have to agree, The City Grocery in Oxford is quite popular.

There was no "Beale Street" in Memphis until AFTER W.C. Handy's song mentioning Beale Street became popular.

Although I grew up in the Mississippi Delta, I'm not a large fan of the Blues...but, I have been "where the Southern cross the yeller 'dawg".

[Rail Paul]

Yeller Dawg is the Yazoo Valley RR?

[Bolivar Petit Corona]

RP, iIrc, that is correct.  In any event, it is where two RRs cross, one being the Southern.  At Moorhead, Mississippi.  There is a historical marker.

It's mentioned in one of W.C. Handy's songs, don't remember which.

[Nola]

Try these links for info, one is a Travel Log from the Blues Highway with a picture of the Historical Marker another is travel information on Natchez, Ms and the area.

http://thebluehighway.com/deltalog.html

http://www.virtualtourist.com/bluecatcanoe

[Tonyfinch]

Brilliant.Thanks a lot

[Rail Paul]

The NY Times H&G section (Thursday March 7) had an interesting article on the jazz diva Cassandra Wilson's visit to Tutwiler MS.  Ms Wilson also recorded several new numbers in the area, using the station and a box car for that purpose.

Nice comments on Turner's Grill, and its "outrageously good" food.

[Tater]

What a great trip. I'm jealous...

I can make a few recs...

Clarksdale - Madidi ...Madidi--Clarksdale Owned by Morgan Freeman. I have not been, but it's gotten good reviews (and I can guarantee there isn't much else).

Also Abe's bbq at the crossroads. It's good, but I'd hold out on 'q for Memphis.

Greenville - Doe's Eat Place Great steaks and tamales (a Miss. Delta tradition for some reason). bad area of town but great atmosphere.

Merigold - Just off Hwy 61. Not food, but McCarty Pottery. Great pottery sculptures, dishes, etc...unusual and well-kept secret from visitors. Ask any local...

Cleveland - KC's. Probably the best wine list in Mississippi and really, really good food. You eat here if you are looking for upscale food in Mississippi. I'm not sure if there is a comparison.

Greenwood (about an hour east of Hwy 61 on 82) - Lusco's. Great old Southern restaurant with private booths. If they have the pompano, I highly recommend it.

Oxford - City Grocery already mentioned and I recommend. Also try Old Taylor Grocery about 15 minutes outside of town for great, great catfish. BYOB. Oxford is a great town, with quite a bit more to do than the others listed above.

Memphis - Rendezvous ribs, Cozy Corner ribs and chicken, Interstate BBQ. Try Sekisui in Midtown (no other location) if you are craving Japanese or Sushi after all that Southern food.

These are not in order from South to North...have a great trip and give us your impressions.

[Tater]

One more...forgot about Gulf Shores.

Go to Gulf Shores Steamer for local flavor, cold beer and good steamed seafood. Get a platter and get messy...

[Tonyfinch]

Thanks to all for some brilliant suggestions

[Bolivar Petit Corona]

OK, so please give us an account of your trip, when you get a chance.

[Blondie]

Tony - From my dim college recollections, nothing says Redneck Riviera like the FloraBama Lounge and Package Store on the Florida/Alabama border in Perdido Key. Liquor store in the front, bar in the back with live music (hopefully something better than the endless Allman Bros and Lynyrd Skynyrd covers we suffered through). It's right on the beach.

When you head toward Mississippi turn west at Foley and head up Scenic 98 which runs along Mobile Bay. You'll pass through Point Clear (I spent summers there as a kid), home of the Grand Hotel (beautiful grounds, just being renovated). It's a mint julep sort of place, if you know what I mean.

Judge Roy Bean's in Daphne used to be the best bar on the Eastern Shore.

If you don't stop in Mobile for anything else, if you take one of the downtown exits off I-10 you can get fried oyster sandwiches to take away (or eat in) from Wintzell's Oyster House. You'll be back on the highway in minutes.

Blondie

[stellabella]

In one regard I am definately totally intimidated on this web-site--recommending upscale restaurants.

The reason?  I never eat in them.  Really.

But I can show you some soul food.

I live in Rutledge, which is 50 miles east of Atlanta.  If I am not in the UK while you are in the US, I think it is possible I could cook for ya'll.

I can think f another really good reason for you to make the detour--I live about 8 mis. from Madison, an intact antebellum town with gorgeous restored architecture.  Madison is rather snooty [Rutledge is the bastard stepdaughter] but well worth a look.  And i recommend Ol' Murray's, a soul food diner on the first floor of the black funeral home.  Nicest people run it.  I always get the fried fish [whiting]-they don't cook it til you order it.  Collard greens, field peas, rice--and blue pressed glass bowlsful of jalapeno and onion slices in vinegar on each table.

Let me know when you all are a 'comin.

[stellabella]

Tony, also read my post on Selma [sorry about the typos].

If you want some history [and BARBECUE!  Man-o-man!]--whoa.  And it would be really funky and freaky for you to see Madison, GA, and then see Selma, AL.  It's hard to get your mind around this place we call "The South."  Like it's HOMOGENOUS or something.  Uh-uh!

[Tonyfinch]

Stellabella. My wife and I are flying to Atalanta on July 22nd arriving about 2pm. We'll be back in Atlanta for the flight home on Aug 9th.

When are you coming to London?

[stellabella]

I'll be in London July 3-27, then in Ireland July 27-August 3.

We might be able to make this work.

If I cook for you this summer, I won't make meatloaf--you'll get summer southern grub, backyard tomatoes and squash casserole, cornbread, maybe fried tomatoes & eggplant....I'll come up with something!

[Tonyfinch]

Stellabella. When you arrive in London on July 3rd give me a ring and we'll arrange for you to come over for a meal. Phone me on 7 790 5170-my work no.Look forward to hearing from you .

[Rail Paul]

The Friday NY Times has another excellent article on the Mississippi Delta and the search for Blues roots. In the new Escapes section.

Written by Rick Bragg, the article recounts a trip from Memphis to New Orleans, with side trips and reference points for students of the form. Mr Bragg has a very evocative style in his prose

My NewYorkTimes server isn't responding, but the article should come up with a search under Blues, Highway 61, Memphis, or Peabody Hotel