Solomon's wines (long)

[Florida Jim]

Last night, Eric Solomon brought several of his portfolio’s wines, mostly from the Iberian Peninsula, to a formal tasting in Charlotte, NC. Mr. Solomon is passionate about his product, articulate in his presentation and clearly enjoys his work.

My experience with Spanish wines runs to some Albarino, Muga and Lopez de Heredia; my experience in Portugal to port; so this was an eye-opening event. My comments should also be understood to have little context.

These wines are a clear step toward the international style. Most saw French oak (except as otherwise noted), they are low production, extracted, alcoholic and, at least to some degree, polished, slick and glossy. But they are more convincing than what I expect of such wines. Perhaps, it is the low yields or the grape varieties or the age of the vines; whatever it is, these wines had character, were usually not over-wooded, the alcohol did not stick out, and, in many cases, they came across as well balanced. An impressive showing for this skeptic.

Prices shown are suggested pre-sell wholesale in this market.

Aperitif:

2003 Pazo de Senorans, Albarino (Galicia):

100% Albarino

Penetrating aromatics; crisp, clean, almost edgy in the mouth with solid flavors and a touch of spice. Shows none of the affects of the 2003 heat. $23.

First flight:

2003 Bodegas Senorio, Val de Sil (Galicia):

100% Godello

Light floral nose with gum and spice tones; crisp and dry despite ripe fruit flavors, some minerality. No wood used; 60 year old vines. Reminiscent of Soave in a fresh, lyrical way. $19.

2002 Bodegas Senorio, Pezas da Portela (Galicia):

100% Godello

Similar to the above wine with more viscosity, less focus and giving evidence of both alcohol and barrel. 100 year old vines. I would love to see this wine made in the same manner as the previous one as the concentration was certainly greater; but here it seems that technique interferes with nature. $40.

2000 Bodegas Estefania, Tilenus Pagos de Posada (Bierzo):

100% Mencia

Described as pinot-esque by the speaker, I found this woody, spicy, astringent and unpleasant. 40-100 year old vines. $38. Others enjoyed it.

2001 Bienvenida de Vinos, Sitio de “El Palo” (Toro):

100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo)

Dead on the nose, cheesy; corked on the palate. Others thought not. $48.

The following four wines were served in a flight Mr. Solomon referred to as “cult wines” of Spain or as similar to right bank “garage wines.” As mentioned, they bore a resemblance to those wines from California or St. Emilion but they were different enough to persuade even me that such wines can be done well. And that, is saying something.

2001 Cellar Alemany i Corrio, Sot Lefriec (Penedes):

50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Carignan

Light but pleasant nose similar to a St. Emilion garage wine with a certain polish and integration; deep licorice and black fruit flavors with excellent concentration and intensity, soft tannins and good grip. Showing young but mouth-filling and tastes of old vine sap. Gracious, a Merlot based wine I like; what next? $67.

2001 Clos d’Agon, Tinto (Emporda):

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah

Although showing fairly closed, this wine was remarkable. It smelled of CA syrah with focus (not really a contradiction in terms in the imagination), fruit cake spice, amazing density and integration, concentrated, intense, drying tannins. Pingus-esque, if you will. One glass will do me, unless we’re eating wild boar, but I would travel a long way to have that single glass. $77.

2001 Aalto Bodegas y Vinedos, Aalto (Ribero del Duero):

100% Tempranillo

Another wine showing closed but a beautiful nose – floral, earthy, wood spice, utterly sublime; concentrated, intense, classy, great balance and the essence of Tempranillo; slightly woody on the finish. Glorious wine and truly interesting. $56.

2001 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Quincha Corral (Valencia):

96% Bobal, remainder Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon

Closed nose with some light fruit; pinot-like texture in the mouth with high-toned flavors and a distinctly earthy character which I think one will either love or hate (I chose the latter), very fine tannins. 90 year old vines. $82.

Next flight:

2003 Clos des Fees, Grenache Blanc (Roussillon):

45% Grenache Blanc, 45% Grenache Gris, 10% Maccabeu

Soave-like smells and Muscat-like flavors, viscous texture, dry, some extra acidity on the finish. 100 year old vines. Somewhat non-descript. $19.

2003 Clos des Fees, Les Sorcieres (Roussillon):

50% Grenache Noir, 45% Carignan, 5% Syrah

Translucent and a bit light on the nose but weightless in the mouth (despite substantial alcohol), Ruche-like flavors; an odd, earthy/dirt finish. A bit disjointed but interesting wine. Tank only. $21.

2001 Clos del Rey, Cotes du Roussillon (Roussillon):

60% Carignan, 40% Grenache

Floral nose with lots of ripe fruit; mid-weight in the mouth with complex flavors, tannic structure; dry finish. A polished but not over-polished delivery showing great depth of flavor. 100 year old Carignan and 120 year old Grenache. Extraordinary concentration and integration, strong flavors, perfect balance; an extremely fine wine. $70.

2001 Calvet Thunevin, Cotes du Roussillon (Roussillon):

45% Grenache, 45% Carignan, 10% Syrah

Henri Bonneau was the first thing I thought of when I smelled and tasted this wine; CdP-like in profile but tighter, more focused but still a little on the showy/refined side. 80 year old Grenache and Carignan. Good wine. $50.

The final flight of reds was table wine (dry) made from very old port vineyards.

2001 Poeira, Poeira (Douro):

Blend includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Fransceca, Souzao, Tinta Cao and Tinta Roriz

Port light nose; mineral and dark fruit on the palate with port-like flavors but not the alcohol, concentrated, intense, complex and very well balanced. I would love to taste this in twenty years; the balance makes me think it will make it in fine style. Very “of it’s place.” $50.

2001 Lavradores de Feitoria, Grande Escolha (Douro):

Blend includes Touriga Nacional, Tina Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Amarela

Similar to the above wine more open and softer, it also has a sort of dirt flavor. 60-100 year old vines. Made by Dirk Nieport. I prefer the Poeira for its focus and flavor profile. $62.

2001 Wine & Soul, Pintas (Douro):

70 year old vineyard with over 30 traditional varieties

Powerful, full-tilt wine with flavors similar to the above but with more extraction and power and less integration. Not my style. $63.

Dessert wines::

Casa Santa Eufemia, White Port, harvest 1973 (Douro):

Blend includes Malvasia, Moscatel and Cerceal

This wine has been sitting in cask since 1973 and is bottled as ordered

Smells like tawny port mixed with sherry; nutty, dried fruit, complex and very long.

$69.

2002 Coume del Mas, Quintessence Banyuls (Roussillon):

100% Grenache Noir

Fresh, lightly sweet and full of fruit. Yummy; where’s the cheese? $50.

Best, Jim