Spanish Olive Oil & Canned Food?

[orangeblossom]

I was reading some old threads and gather that El Navarrico and Rosara are the brands to buy for piquillo peppers and white asparagus. I would like some recommendations on good Spanish olive oil brands to look out for. What about brands for canned Basque tuna and anchovies from L'escala? Finally, any recommendations on shops in Barcelona where I can find all these products?

Thanks!

[Silly Disciple]

I was reading some old threads and gather that El Navarrico and Rosara are the brands to buy for piquillo peppers and white asparagus. I would like some recommendations on good Spanish olive oil brands to look out for. What about brands for canned Basque tuna and anchovies from L'escala? Finally, any recommendations on shops in Barcelona where I can find all these products?

Thanks!

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Orangeblossom,

A good place for olives and canned stuff is La Ribera, and for other preserves you can visit Murria or Quilez. Please look at the groceries thread for addresses and more tips on shopping places.

Silly.

[Luis Gutiérrez]

One of my favourite olive oils is Dauro de l'Emporda from the same guys that make the Roda wines in Rioja. It's usually easy to find, but of you wait a few weeks the new vintage should be hitting the shopt soon, and it's so impressive when it's really fresh. I can't wait!!

I think that, as I heard from Agustín Santolaya from Roda some time ago, the best (or the ones to start the revolution, at least) olive oils will come from wine producers, since they already have the quality concept in their minds. The one from Marques de Griñón is also very nice, but I'm not sure about when it's released (at least the first year waaaay too late!!).

Cheers,

Luis

Edited November 11, 2004 by Luis Gutiérrez (log)

[MiguelCardoso]

Here's a funny thing. Being Portuguese, I'd never normally dream of trying Spanish olive oils as I'll die before I've tasted all the many olive oils of Portugal. This happens with an enormous amount of foodstuffs we share, so that Portugal is certainly more ignorant of Spanish products than, say, Hungary. It's easier to find Spanish food in Lithuania than it is in Portugal, because both countries tend to produce the same things. They are very faraway countries and I don't think you can appreciate either without understanding this.

However, this is a great tragedy. I learnt the sadness when I was a student in England and, much against my upbringing, was "forced" to buy Spanish olive oil - not after I'd tried Greek, Turkish, French, Italian, Morrocan and found them wanting for my culinary purposes. In Portugal, Spain is known as a mass producer with little attention to subtleties and individuality - it's just this big, enormous, flyblown, irredeemably greasy and mostly arid and unhygienic country which annoyingly stands between us and France like a gigantic buffer zone, made up of several proud nations that should, by rights, be independent.

I'm exaggerating but not much.

Spain to Portugal is "flyover", like the American Midwest. Being so close, it's amazing how much we miss. How can we ever understand Europe without Spain? Not for lack of trying.

It's these horrid preconceptions we're currently fighting, thanks to democracy and the EC - but they're there all the same.

Given this framework, I was quite taken aback when tasting Spanish olive oils. In Portugal, we're ultra-sensitive to the slightest distances - so there are at least nine distinct regional styles in olive oil - but here we were ignoring a spectacularly diverse country ten times our size.

Anyway, olive oils all depend on the particular olive trees (and variety of olives of course) and climate and, when properly made, are as unique as wines.

The Spanish olive oil we use at home (as Portuguese, used to beautiful olive oil) is absolutely delicious and inexpensive and should be available through export, as I buy it in the Spanish El Corte Inglés: al-Manzar (de olivares centenarios) made by Aceites Viana, in Garciéz (Jaen, natch) by Damián Salcedo. For instance, to slowly cook those piquillo peppers (shaking the frying pan to create the sauce) you asked about.

There are a lot of far superior olive oils but you can only get them outside Spain if you have a friendly grocer.

P.S.

El Navarrico is a very good, reliable brand for piquillo peppers. It's what larders are made for!

[Bux]

Quilez is the only interesting shop I know of in Barcelona, though I suspect there are many others. Should you get to Madrid, or if anyone else is interested, vserna directed us to La Oleoteca de "El Olivo," C/. Juan Ramón Jiménez, 37. It was specialty boutique. The variety of oils and the regions represented were impressive. We didn't buy any oil as we have a great source of estate bottled Italian olive oils in NY, but we purchased some sherry vinegars because these are distinct and this kind of variety is not available here.

[orangeblossom]

Quilez is the only interesting shop I know of in Barcelona, though I suspect there are many others. Should you get to Madrid, or if anyone else is interested, vserna directed us to La Oleoteca de "El Olivo," C/. Juan Ramón Jiménez, 37. It was specialty boutique. The variety of oils and the regions represented were impressive. We didn't buy any oil as we have a great source of estate bottled Italian olive oils in NY, but we purchased some sherry vinegars because these are distinct and this kind of variety is not available here.

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Luis - where can i find the Dauro de l'Emporda ? You mentioned the new vintage will be out soon. I´, leaving for home next week and will only be back in Jan. Any idea if i´ll be able to get it then?

Actually, I was in Madrid for 2 months, and compiled a short list of great speciality food shops. I love the La Oleoteca and bought a couple of bottles of oils they recommended to bring home. I will dig out my notes and post the shops here for those who may be interested.

I´ve also got Casa Gisbert and La Ribera on my list for Barcelona, and will have to check them out. I like Semon and Murria, but find Quilez crowded, and therefore more intimidating as I can´t browse at my own pace with all that activity. I always feel i´m in their way, and my lack of spanish doesn´t help!

also, thanks for the olive oil producer recommendations.

[Silly Disciple]

I´ve also got Casa Gisbert and La Ribera on my list for Barcelona, and will have to check them out. I like Semon and Murria, but find Quilez crowded, and therefore more intimidating as I can´t browse at my own pace with all that activity. I always feel i´m in their way, and my lack of spanish doesn´t help! 

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Indeed Quilez tends to be crowded, but I've found that if you just ignore everyone else and browse no one will be offended or bothered.

Also, since you're going to Cinc Sentis there's a somewhat new shop almost next to the restaurant that's a bit expensive but worth visiting. They have an interesting selection of cheese, fresh pasta I think, some charcuterie and a few other deli items. They also sell a pretty good italian green tomato confiture, but as I said its a bit expensive.

Can't remember then name though.

Silly.

[Luis Gutiérrez]

Luis - where can i find the Dauro de l'Emporda ? You mentioned the new vintage will be out soon. I´, leaving for home next week and will only be back in Jan. Any idea if i´ll be able to get it then?

←

You can find it at the Club del Gourmet from El Corte Inglés, and in most of the duty free shops in the airports (at least in Madrid...). You can buy it now it will still be very nice, and the 2003 has been the best so far (maybe due to the increase in koroneiki olives) , but the 2004 vintage should be available in January (depending on the shops and the stock they might have, of course...).

If you read some Spanish you might want to take a look at this (I hope this is OK with the rules from the forum...):Dauro, los aceites de Roda

Cheers,

Luis

[butterfly]

Ah, Miguel, I'm afraid that the Spanish have the same mentality when it come to the many delicacies of France (and vice versa). So close, but yet so far...

As an American, I find this dedication to one's domestically produced food admirable and preferable (though I won't lie--I would love to be able to buy a nice pain de campagne on every corner...).

About Spanish olive oil--there's another shop called "Molino de las Torres" (recommended by Vserna previously) in Madrid--a producer from Jaen that sells direct to the public.

It may be bordering on sacrilege, but I've also had some wonderful Moroccan olives and olive oil here in Madrid.

About canned tuna... Where can I find the famous "atun del estrecho"?

[docsconz]

I'll second the recommendation of Dauro. I was fortunate to visit the producer in September. It is state of the art and immaculate. The oil is outstanding. It is a combination of three different olive types - korneiki, arbequina and another the name of which escapes me at the moment. It should be widely available at gourmet stores in the area. It was when I was there. Interestingly, they bottle throughout the year in order to maximize freshness. If I can get around to it I will post on my visit there with photos.

As far as the anchovies, if they are from L'Escala I don't think the brand matters very much as they are uniformly good.

[orangeblossom]

As far as the anchovies, if they are from L'Escala I don't think the brand matters very much as they are uniformly good.

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[pedro]

Dauro has been a favourite of mine since it came out. Let me add two or three more brands that you could find easily:

- Marqués de Griñón (also a winemaker)

- Abraham García (chef of Viridiana in Madrid)

- L'Estornell

You should also try the anchovies and tuna coming from Cantabria. Don Bocarte is a reputed brand for anchovies, as are Bastarri and Emilia for albacore bonito.

Ramón Peña is one of the very top producers of canned food.

[docsconz]

You should also try the anchovies and tuna coming from Cantabria. Don Bocarte is a reputed brand for anchovies, as are Bastarri and Emilia for albacore bonito.

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If the trip included Pais Vasco on the itinerary or was a generic trip to Spain, I would wholeheartedly concur, but given that this trip appears to be centerd in Catalunya, L'Escala anchovies provide a little more in the way of terroir as a souvenier.

[vserna]

The place to look for good olive oil is the Club del Gourmet, at El Corte Inglés. They have a top-notch selection. Most if not all the following brands can be found there. I've had blind tastings of these oils with the Grand Jury Européen, a professional wine tasting group that also dabbles in oil, and in those they've ranked with the best Italian extra virgin olive oils (oil-wise, Spain is now where Italy was in 1990, but catching up fast - among other things, using a lot of Italian technology and know-how!):

Dauro de l'Empordà. The Rotllan-Daurella family has two estates, and this is the one you've been referring to. Near El Bulli, the Pyrenees and France in the northeastern corner of Spain. This is a blend of arbequina, hojiblanca (one of the top Andalusian varieties) and koroneiki (the great Greek variety from Kalamata, giving very green, very aromatic oils). Their other estate is:

Dauro de Aubocassa. This olive grove, and the oil mill, are in the middle of the island of Majorca. This is 100% arbequina. Also outstanding. It's interesting to taste and compare the two; the Aubocassa is perhaps a bit more pungent.

Marqués de Griñón Capilla del Fraile. From Toledo, about three miles from the Marqués de Griñón's wine-producing estate, Dominio de Valdepusa. This is a model operation, with a small mill that's among the most technologically advanced in the world, avoiding all contact of the fresh olive juice with air (designed and run by prof. Marco Mugelli, Tuscany's oil guru). My favorite Spanish olive oil, with a lot of personality. A blend of arbequina, picual and manzanilla.

Molino de San Nicolás y San Esteban is made by my friend Nicolás Gómez-Marín in Huelva province, not far from Jabugo, in Spain's extreme southwest. A blend of arbequina, hojiblanca and picual. Amazing oil, both delicate and 'piccante', as the Italians like it to be. Hard to find (production - about 10,000 50cl bottles.)

La Boella. This sensational, delicate oil from Tarragona is made with 100% arbosana olives - a minority Catalan variety that's been obscured by arbequina's success. (The names, BTW, refer to the villages which are considered to be the points of origin - Arbeca near Lleida for arbequina, L'Arboç near Tarragona for arbosana.) My latest discovery. I'm becoming addicted to it...

Abbae de Queiles. From southern Navarre (also, as almost always around the Mediterranean, a wine-producing area - the excellent Guelbenzu winery is right around the corner). A 100% arbequina oil, very fragrant.

Edited November 13, 2004 by vserna (log)

[Eduardo]

You should also try the anchovies and tuna coming from Cantabria.

There's a place in Madrid called Comercial Salamanca (Menendez Pelayo 2) where you can find,in my opinion, the best anchovies coming from Cantabria (I guess it's Santoña but I'm not completely sure). They are “home made” and surely deserve a try.

Even if you are not interested on anchovies, it’s a good place for food. Excellent meat, great embutidos and a good selection of canned seafood and vegetables.

[Luis Gutiérrez]

You should also try the anchovies and tuna coming from Cantabria.

There's a place in Madrid called Comercial Salamanca (Menendez Pelayo 2) where you can find,in my opinion, the best anchovies coming from Cantabria (I guess it's Santoña but I'm not completely sure). They are “home made” and surely deserve a try.

Even if you are not interested on anchovies, it’s a good place for food. Excellent meat, great embutidos and a good selection of canned seafood and vegetables.

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Eduardo, ¿was this called Comercial Narvaez before or is this a branch of it or something like that? Because I remember my mum used to shop there (I'm talking 20 years ago...) and buy some excellent stuff! I haven't been there for a very long time, but since you brought it back to my memory I'll try to have a look next time I'm in the city centre.

Cheers,

Luis

[Eduardo]

Eduardo, ¿was this called Comercial Narvaez before or is this a branch of it or something like that?

I'll find out and will tell you. I've been shopping there from not so long ago. But even if it isn't that place, you should go and take a look to some of their stuff (except for cheeses)...

[vserna]

Best anchovies from Santoña are by the Consorcio Conservero. Seek out that brand, it's worth the effort.

[Luis Gutiérrez]

Best anchovies from Santoña are by the Consorcio Conservero. Seek out that brand, it's worth the effort.

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Víctor, don't they have two different kinds? The regular and the selection (or 'gold' or whatever) that has darker packaging. I seem to remember the quality difference was quite big.

I haven't had breakfast, and I'm getting hungry...

\Luis

[orangeblossom]

whoa! that´s whole lot of information for me to go check up on. I know what i´ll be doing tomorrow when El Corte Ingles opens

btw, i was at Quimet e Quimet yesterday, and it was incredible that all that delicious food came out of tins. I´m sure you can appreciate my eagerness to bring some of it home with me

Just a question - does anyone know what this is - i was given a spoonful of some kind of advocaat flavoured custard as a sort of sweet round up to my meal. When I asked the bartender (who was making the tapas, and incidentally, was very friendly, and tried to explain some of what he was setting in front of me) where i could get it, he couldn´t tell me, so i´m wondering if it is something particular to them. He did tell me it was made from eggs and cream, hence my guess it was some sort of custard. It came in a huge jar.

Edited November 14, 2004 by orangeblossom (log)

[artisanbaker]

Marques de Griñón

Paco Torreblanca taught a class last February here in Chicago using this olive oil for pastry application. It was very very good.

[pedro]

Best anchovies from Santoña are by the Consorcio Conservero. Seek out that brand, it's worth the effort.

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If we're talking of the Consorcio Español Conservero and their Consorcio brand, that's the brand which I 've been buying my bonito from for ages.

I didn't know they also offer anchovies. I'm almost certain I haven't seem them in any of El Corte Inglés's Club del Gourmet that I frequent. Do you know a place to find them in Madrid?

[artal]

I´ve also got Casa Gisbert and La Ribera on my list for Barcelona, and will have to check them out. I like Semon and Murria, but find Quilez crowded, and therefore more intimidating as I can´t browse at my own pace with all that activity. I always feel i´m in their way, and my lack of spanish doesn´t help! 

←

Indeed Quilez tends to be crowded, but I've found that if you just ignore everyone else and browse no one will be offended or bothered.

Also, since you're going to Cinc Sentis there's a somewhat new shop almost next to the restaurant that's a bit expensive but worth visiting. They have an interesting selection of cheese, fresh pasta I think, some charcuterie and a few other deli items. They also sell a pretty good italian green tomato confiture, but as I said its a bit expensive.

Can't remember then name though.

Silly.

←

It's called Castafiore, a specialty Italian food shop.

[MiguelCardoso]

Pedro: You can certainly find the Consorcio anchovies (indeed from Santoa) here in Lisbon in the Club Gourmet, so I imagine they export them to neighbouring Spain. ;)

A word of warning: the big 250gs tins, though much cheaper, aren't properly packed: they're too loose and the layers are separated by ineffectual strips of waxed papers. I'd go every time for the small 50 gs tins - though they do work out annoyingly more expensive.

My favourite anchovies are still the Ortiz anchovies, in small jars, those with their silvery skins still on. You usually get a very nifty free anchovy fork with each one.

Considerably cheaper but still superb are Imperio del Oriente and even Miau.

All these brands are listed online on the Corte Inglés supermarket website - no need to go to the Club Gourmet: have them delivered! When I do need supplies which aren't listed (generally because they're in the Club Gourmet) all it takes is a phone call and they'll include it in your order. Including all the wines and olive oils, of course, as well as freshly cut jamón ibérico and even live lobsters.

It's no exaggeration to say I don't know how I ever lived without their superb delivery service. In the summer, they now deliver to the Algarve.

I'm sorry if this sounds like an advertisement. I once wrote a long article extolling the pleasures and wonders of my twice-weekly online orders to the Corte Inglés (which include, of course, back-breaking hectolitres of bottled water - in glass, of course!) and how agreeable it was.

My father-in-law's disdainful comment: "Rica vida...!"

(translation: "It's a hard life, to be sure.")

Edited November 15, 2004 by MiguelCardoso (log)

[orangeblossom]

I had earlier promised to post some addresses of gourmet shops in Madrid for those who may be interested.

Here goes:

Olive Oil

La Oleoteca

Juan Ramón Jiménez 37 Metro: Cuzco

This shop sells some of Spain's top brands.

Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero

1 Mejía Lequerica Metro: Alonso Martínez

My favourite olive oil shop in Madrid. It stocks a vast range from all over Spain, and includes several varieties sold only through this shop.

Molino de las Torres

9 Señores de Luzón Metro: Opera.

They sell their own oils, from the Jaén province.

Gourmet Delis

La Boulette

Ayala, 28 (Mercado de la Paz) Metro: Velázquez

Very good selection of cheese from all over Spain, and a more limited (but still good) choice of French and Italian cheese. Also has excellent Jamón and other cured meats, foie-gras products and some wines.

Mallorca

Velázquez 59. Metro: Velázquez

One of Madrid´s most popular gpurmet and pastry shops. Wonderful range of products, and there is also a cafe.

Mantequerías Bravo

C/Ayala 24. Metro Serrano.

Very well stocked shop - sells a vast range of Spanish foods - wonderful meats and cheeses, wines and spirits, freshly roasted coffees etc.

Museo del Jamón

Can be found everywhere in Madrid. Great to browse for 1st time visitors, and you can also buy and try the food they sell.

Palacio de los Quesos

53, Mayor

A wide range of different cheeses, and other delicatessen-type goods. Usually very crowded.

Bakeries and Sweet Shops

La Mallorquina

Puerta del Sol 8. Metro Sol.

One of the oldest and most bustling pastry shop

El Horno de San Onofre

3 San Onofre, Metro: Gran Vía

Branch: C/Hortaleza 8, Chueca

Wonderful bakery. Excellent breads, cakes, chocolates, seasonal cakes.

I love their bacalao and apple empanadas - strange combination but yummm.

La Santiagüesa

73 Mayor

The sister shop to the above 'El Horno de San Onofre'.

Casa Mira

Carrera de San Jerónimo 30

Famous for their turron (nougat) and other excellent seasonal sweets.

La Violeta

6 Pza. Canalejas

A traditional violet sweet maker, one of the most typical of Madrid sweets. I´ve tried both the typical sweet (the hard type which you suck), as well as the soft chewy ones. I prefer the latter.