Snails Escargots

[Bux]

The best I've had were in Menorca - tiny ones, that were definitely land, not sea snails, that seemed to have been plainly cooked - I couldn't detect any other flavour other than snail - and served with a rich allioli. They were amazing, melting and not at all chewy, with a rich foresty flavour.

I believe they are also eaten this way in the Bas Languedoc. It's not surprising when you realize that the neighboring Roussillon is as much Catalunya as France. It's not unusual in that part of France to have large cargolade as a public feast. Unfortunately, I've not been able to time my arrivals to enjoy this feast, but my understanding is that vast quantities of snails are grilled and served with aioli. Cargol is the Catalan word for snails, and closer in sound to the French name for snails than the Spanish.

[endless autumn]

The village my parents live in in the Pyrenees have just had their annual Cargolade (to follow two paellas and a couple of m'chouis: they have a fete most weeks).

Three thousand snails, some barely gritted, some barely cooked, and lots of allioli/ aioli. Litres of rough VRAC wine helped to make the event pass smoothly.

[vserna]

Litres of rough VRAC wine helped to make the event pass smoothly.

This sentence contains a contradiction in terms...

(BTW, in English 'en vrac' is 'in bulk'.)

[Bux]

Many years ago, escargot seemed to be the most quintessentially French food, although frog's legs gave them a run for the money. They were always escargot bourguignon or fat Burgundian snails served in hot garlic butter. Having had them, even in NY back in the sixties, was a mark of some sort of sophistication. They were standard in most bistros on both sides of the Atlantic if my memory is correct. I can tell you that we even bought a set of snail tongs or whatever they were called, and a set of steel plates with the requisite dimples. I have no idea where either of those items are today. They're probably in a box that hasn't been opened since we moved well over thirty years ago. The box is probably a time capsule of sixties items I've never missed.

I still see the dish on menus, but the few times in the last twenty years or so that I've had snails, they've been in puff pastry with spinach, in a tomato sauce laced with Pernod or some other such preparation. Writing about escargot bourguignon right now brings up a craving for them, although I'd happily settle for a big bowl of hot garlic butter and a crusty loaf of bread. Wiping the plate clean of melted butter was always at least as rewarding as eating the snails. I don't think the dish is as iconic now as it used to be. There are more nouveau bistrots or retro bistrots in Paris than there are plain old bistrots.

A cargolade would be appealing, at least because I haven't had one, or been to one. I doubt that I won't find something more appealing on the menu if I run into escargot bourguignon being offered. Actually, what I might crave along with some oysters when I'm in Paris next month, are some sea snails--the large Bulots in particular and perhaps some small bigourneaux--along with some good fresh mayonnaise to accompany the boiled snails.

[John Talbott]

BTW there's a nifty and very nice Escargot store, L'Escargot de la Butte, 48, rue Joseph-de-Maistre adjacent to the Montmartre cemetery, where you get get all sizes of snails already filled with Burgundian butter. My love of them does date me but hey, my picture gives it away anyway.

[Boris_A]

I had snails on two occasions in French "higher" end restaurants. It was in the Jura region two or three years ago. In Malbuisson, a dish of seemingly braised snails with garlick and some reduction, and one in Arbois, fried snails served in a cup with a savoury, foamy cream. A glas of semi-oxydised "Côte du Jura" white wine was a great pairing in both cases. I think both (the particular wine and the snails) are underrated delicacies, but not easy to understand (to use adventurous-gourmand-speak )

[Bux]

Semi-oxydized wines may be a hit or miss thing, but they can be excellent. I once served a Sauternes that was deep in tint and approaching a Madeira like taste. My guests sniffed and made rude comments. I poured little tastes and thought, great more for me. They all asked for seconds without apologies.

[bleudauvergne]

snail tongs or whatever they were called... and a set of steel plates with the requisite dimples. I have no idea where either of those items are today. They're probably in a box ...

Writing about escargot bourguignon right now brings up a craving for them, although I'd happily settle for a big bowl of hot garlic butter and a crusty loaf of bread. Wiping the plate clean of melted butter was always at least as rewarding as eating the snails. I don't think the dish is as iconic now as it used to be. ...

I doubt that I won't find something more appealing on the menu if I run into escargot bourguignon being offered.

Bux, this is filling me with wonderful ideas, I am thinking of preparing dinner for a couple of special guests in a couple of weeks...

escargot bourguignon - We have them often, as a first course at home. There are several ways to do it. I don't remember who was telling me about their family tradition - There was a discussion about how they starve them for 24-48 hours before preparing them, to get the grit out - before parboiling them in a special broth. You can buy the prepared snails ready to stuff in the shells in the can and this is what my mother in law (who lives in the Midi) does. She prepares the garlic butter with parsley at home and we fill them just before running them under the broiler. The traiteurs here in Lyon regularly feature them ready to broil, and there is one plce in particular that does a very good job. Our last resort is to get them frozen. They are offered at Picard various sizes to choose from. Although 4 years ago they were pretty good, I've noticed the quality has slipped for the Picard snails, I think they've changed their butter.

I took a couple of cans of them home (back in the states on vacation) along with the requisite shells. On the customs form they asked if I was carrying "biological agents or snails". I assumed they meant live snails?

[Schneier]

I bought six overnproof snail crocks--the kind where you put the snails in to cook without their shells--and six of those silly tongs for three euros at a brocante sale here just the other week.

I'm still looking for fresh, but I've found frozen snails at the HyperChampion.

Bruce

[John Talbott]

I bought six overnproof snail crocks--the kind where you put the snails in to cook without their shells--and six of those silly tongs for three euros at a brocante sale here just the other week. 

I'm still looking for fresh, but I've found frozen snails at the HyperChampion.

Bruce

Bruce - I get them (fresh) at the place I named above.

Also, I cook them in (horrors) an aluminum 12-snail truc I got there. My little forks and holders came from one of the many La Vaisselleries.

I agree with Lucy - they make a great first course.

[Bux]

Bux, this is filling me with wonderful ideas, I am thinking of preparing dinner for a couple of special guests in a couple of weeks...

If they are real francophiles of a certain age, they will be delighted.

[John Talbott]

BTW there's a nifty and very nice Escargot store, L'Escargot de la Butte, 48, rue Joseph-de-Maistre adjacent to the Montmartre cemetery, where you get get all sizes of snails already filled with Burgundian butter.  My love of them does date me but hey, my picture gives it away anyway.

←

Sad news; it's closed (been a while too).

In today's IHT, Doreen Carvajal's Globespotter piece notes that the last store where one get get them (excepting weekend markets) is La Maison de l'Escargot on the Rue Fondary in the 15th.

[Culinista]

Really? I seem to remember being able to get them in Poncelet, but that was a couple of years ago already.

[rooftop1000]

We are still training the servers at our local (NJ) restaurant not to take the crock away until every drop of butter sauce has been soaked or spooned up

tracey