Lyon

[bleudauvergne]

Or rather: I'm not necessarily looking for a place with the coveted rosettes, elegant atmosphere, synchronized silver domes or best starched linen; a unique experience unknown to the common tourist with a menu (or none) that is untransalated will also to me be as rewarding and satisfying as any "stellar" booking.

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Warning all of the best restaurants are going to be completely booked this weekend due to the Salon International de la Restauration, de l’Hôtellerie et de l’Alimentation. I recommend you make your bookings nice and early.

I highly recommend both Gourmet de Seze for a excellently prepared FD menus and Chez Pierre for falling in the not so fancy unknown to the common tourist category but still well prepared seasonal delicacies, in November it was a menagerie of lovely game, although that might have changed since them.

[bleudauvergne]

[i'd like to know where th canal wine tasting meal is.

Has anyone tasted the meal on the barge Restaurant La Peniche on the Lioire?

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That would be on the Rhone, near Pont Lafayette. We have never eaten there because we just found the menu too expensive, can anyone comment on the dining experience on the River Boat?

[menton1]

Be aware that, as big as Lyon may be, virtually the entire city is closed on Sunday nights. Your dining choices, other than pizzerias and bars, will be few and far between. Plan ahead for Sunday night!

[chefzadi]

I'd like to thank Bux for posting the links to other threads on Lyon. I read each one with delight and I looked up the websites to as many restaurants as I could find. Somethings never change! The old chefs are still there, in some of the restaurants even the FOH staff hasn't changed much, alot of menus are exactly the same ones I prepared when I was training as a young man.

[Bux]

Two years ago I tried Msr Le Bec's restarant at Cour des Loges for lunch and was suitably impressed, alas he's moved. Any reports on/from his new premises?

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We were in Lyon last fall and I'm sorry to say we forgot about Le Bec, only to run across his restaurant the day after we ate at another restaurant that disappointed us. Worse yet, it was just a block away from our hotel. I too recall some excellent food when he cooked at le Cour des Loges although I found some pretense in the setting and service. His new restaurant looked quite inviting in a modern style.

[chefzadi]

Whilst not being an enormously active participant, I still do hope and feel that my contributions might have been useful and appreciated, and therefore seek to revive this thread for personal information and potential gain:

I'll be arriving next week 3 days and have 2 potential lunches and dinners that I want to try out the diversity of Lyon.  Troisgros is on the menu for monday night, the only thing I hate about that is having to go back to Lyon..

CheZ Pierre an Gourmet de Sèze will definetely be considered!

Two years ago I tried Msr Le Bec's restarant at Cour des Loges for lunch and was suitably impressed, alas he's moved. Any reports on/from his new premises?

Leon de Lyon and Pierre Orsi are off my list as they'll probably be too involved with Bocuse *D'Or to be able to offer an optimal experience.

I'm staying at the La tour Rose, but alas: they're fully booked all nights and do not keep any tables for residents, should I push for a reservation there or not?

Or rather: I'm not necessarily looking for a place with the coveted rosettes, elegant atmosphere, synchronized silver domes or best starched linen; a unique experience unknown to the common tourist with a menu (or none) that is untransalated will also to me be as rewarding and satisfying as any "stellar" booking.

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Viking please visit http://www.lamachonnerie.com/ . They serve traditional cuisine du terroir there. If you are in Lyon you must try at least one of these types of restaurants and La Machonnerie is quite good. Please tell Chef Felix or his wife Martine that Chef Zadi recommended the restaurant to you for a little extra attention.

(I hope )

[The Viking]

Thanks everyone for an updated input, reconfirming my faith in amongst others Chez Pierre and Gourmet de Seze, reservations have been made and I'm off tomorrow to the Salon and of course "Bocuse D'Or" where a good friend of mine is defending Norway's three titles in 6 attempts over the last ten years(!)

The atmosphere, nervousness on the arena, festiveness, the authenticity of cooking... Mmm... I'm going to absorb it all, feast, enjoy, and hopefully come back with a trip report..

Edited January 23, 2005 by The Viking (log)

[Bux]

. . . and hopefully come back with a trip report..

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Amen to that. Looking forward to your report.

[eatpie]

Sorry for this Chowhound type ? but I know I can trust the E-Gulleters for an accurate response and Im a bit rushed for time being that I get into Paris tmw.

Should be arriving at the Gare de Lyon around 1pm. Ill rendez vous with some friends at Le Train Bleu for a cocktail then planned to drop our bags off at the flat in the 11th and head via metro to Mon Vieil Ami for our first meal. Looks like we may be cutting it a bit close considering I recall they finiish seating for lunch at 2pm. That said, considering Le Repaire de Cartouche as an alternative choice.

Is it walking distance from the Gare de Lyon? Is there a better choice within a

15 minute walk of the Gare de Lyon?

[John Talbott]

Sorry for this Chowhound type ? but I know I can trust the E-Gulleters for an accurate response and Im a bit rushed for time being that I get into Paris tmw. 

Should be arriving at  the Gare de Lyon around 1pm.  Ill rendez vous with some friends at Le Train Bleu for a cocktail then planned to drop our bags off at the flat in the 11th and head via metro to  Mon Vieil Ami for our first meal.  Looks like we may be cutting it a bit close considering I recall they finiish seating for lunch at 2pm.  That said, considering Le Repaire de Cartouche as an alternative choice.

Is it walking distance from the Gare de Lyon?  Is there a better choice within a

15 minute walk of the Gare de Lyon?

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It's hard to answer your question, where is your hotel? Why are you delaying at Le Train Bleu? See your friends later.

By my calculus, Mon Vieil Ami is 1,4 km from le Gare de Lyon, Le Repaire de Cartouche 1,7 km for a less great meal. My advice, you'll make it. Take a cab.

[pierre45]

Sorry for this Chowhound type ? but I know I can trust the E-Gulleters for an accurate response and Im a bit rushed for time being that I get into Paris tmw. 

Should be arriving at  the Gare de Lyon around 1pm.  Ill rendez vous with some friends at Le Train Bleu for a cocktail then planned to drop our bags off at the flat in the 11th and head via metro to  Mon Vieil Ami for our first meal.  Looks like we may be cutting it a bit close considering I recall they finiish seating for lunch at 2pm.  That said, considering Le Repaire de Cartouche as an alternative choice.

Is it walking distance from the Gare de Lyon?  Is there a better choice within a

15 minute walk of the Gare de Lyon?

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a la biche au bois.45 ave ledru rollin

Hearty, robust cuisine.REasonable,very popular and friendly. Expect Jean Gabin to walk at any moment.

[eatpie]

Friends are all coming in from different places (Amstdm and UK) and being that our great USA cell system is only available IN the us, my cell is useless.

Le Metro Bleu is the closest landmark spot and supposedly very close to our friend's flat where we'll be staying. Bottom line, if there are train lockers we'll be checking our bags and off in a cab to Mon Vieil Ami, if we have to deal with baggage drop off then a fall back plan is needed. Worse comes to worse its a day of street food and then dinner at Dominique Bouchet (thanks for the tip, John).

So looking forward to a paris chow (what is ----hound?) extravaganza! Ill be sure to post upon my return...oh yea. Off to go pack...thx for all.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

My husband (who is 99.99% accurate 99.99% of the time ) informs me that as of mid April, there were luggage lockers at Gare de Lyon. Your bags as well as your person are xrayed before your stuff is accepted.

So...you can either stash your luggage there, which is not necessarily very cheap, or head for your bud's flat.

Just to add more confufflement to the situation, you can catch a #24 or #63 bus at the door to Gare de Lyon and within minutes wind up anywhere along the south quais or Blvd. St. Germain.

Enjoy.

[dellis453]

I'm planning a trip to Lyon in June and have been reading the various threads on restaurants etc. and would love to get your thoughts. I'll have 4 to 5 days to explore.

I hope you don't mind a few questions!

I'd particularly like to see food being prepared such as bread or patisserie and maybe do some cooking for myself!

Are there any food tours of the city?

I've come across a cooking course with Jean-Yves Johany. Has anyone spent some time with him?

We've two one-starred Michelin restaurants in Edinburgh of which I love, Martin Wisharts (www.martin-wishart.co.uk), he uses the finest local ingredients with a light touch. Which Michelin starred restaurant should I choose to compare?

Many thanks!

[glauer]

I have been to Lyon last April. Had lunch at Nicolas Le Bec (1 star), which is in the middle of Lyon, and at la Pyramide (2 star) in Viennes (ca 30 mins south).

I loved la Pyramide but was more excited about the food at Nicolas Le Bec. The food there was incredibly smart, very elegant and light combinations, surprising enough without being ridiculous. I especially remember that texture played a critical role in several dishes. The food is clearly based on classical french and local traditions, but Le Bec plays with them masterfully. One of my best meals in recent years. This place has been open for only two or three years and I am expecting a quick rise. I also liked the dining room, very sleek but also comfortable, and very attentive service.

La Pyramide is obvioulsy in many ways the opposite. Everything there breezes history. The food is a bit more classical, but reasonably juvenated and light, and one should not expect big surprises. What I enjoyed the most was the hospitality and the lack of pretension. Everyone seemed very confident, yet incredibly friendly. This is how these great restaurants on the country side used to be...but not that many are still run that way. Very generous and classy. Everything about making people happy. I had a friend with me who had never been before in one of the "great" restaurants and even if we might have been able to find more exciting food in that region I am glad we went. I would love to go back in summer to sit in the garden.

They also have a little boutique were they sell food and wine. I found mosty products excellent and to my surprise often cheaper than what I had seen in other stores (usually those attached shops are a ripoff).

We also went to some nice Bistrots, though none of them stood really out......and obviously to the covered market. Bring your shopping bags.

[bleudauvergne]

Hi - I live in Lyon and as the time comes up to the month of June, I'll try to compile a few of my favorite places to eat out. In the meantime, as far as cooking goes, April is a very fruitful time and you'll find much to cook. Will you be renting an apartment? What's the location of your home base in Lyon? It might be best to start that way, since if you are cooking you'll want to know what's within a certain periphery of where your staying for shopping.

To get you started:

Dining in Lyon

Come to think of it, if you check out the eGullet Foodblogs I have done in Lyon (links in my signature), you might find some details about what kind of things you'll find at various markets and at Les Halles. That's just one little gourmande's corner view of the city, though. If you're motivated and interested, there is much more to see.

I understand there is a Saturday cooking course in Christian Tetedoie's kitchen. There is also a short term French cooking and culture course at the Institute Bocuse in Ecully, outside of the city which is reachable by regular public transportation which might be interesting if you want something more intensive.

[dellis453]

We've not got as far as decided where to stay and I know it's off topic, but suggestions gratefully received. Love the idea of an appartment ..

Thanks so much for the comparison on the restaurants, just the sort of thing to get me going! Are the older posts still valid on recommendations would you say?

I'd prefer just a day/morning course I think!

Thanks again!

[Simon_S]

Hi Danielle,

I've recently returned from a trip to Lyon, and given the chance I would go back tomorrow. There's such a range of restaurants and good food on offer that you will literally be spoiled for choice.

While there, we ate at the 1-star Nicolas le Bec, 2-star Leon de Lyon, and the 3-star Bocuse, along with a couple of bouchons.

I would say a visit to Bocuse is worth it for historical reasons only, and only if you have deep pockets. All four of us were very disappointed with our meal there, both in terms of food and service. If you're looking for food with a light touch, this is not the place!

Leon de Lyon provided excellent food, and relaxed, friendly but attentive service. The cooking here is quite "classic" and while certainly filling, it was not particularly heavy. Highlights for me were rabbit (presented in various ways), and a really excellent dessert of roasted pineapple. Highly recommended.

On balance, I would say my favourite meal in Lyon was at Nicolas le Bec. We ate there on the first night and it really was an excellent experience from start to finish. The food was creative, reasonably light and has provided me with some excellent memories. We went for one of the taster menus (Menu Epicure) and the highlights for me were the turbot with morels (not halibut as shown on the English translation of the menu), the duck with truffle and (rarely for me) the desserts. In fact, the mashed potato with olive oil (served with the duck) is reason enough to go. Heartily recommended!

Apart from that, there are many excellent bouchons at all price ranges, which you really must sample. You definitely won't starve!!

Enjoy your trip.

Si

[bleudauvergne]

For easy access to market shopping with also museums etc, I recommend a place in the mid to lower 1st or 5th arrondissement, in the old town. Les Halles is on the border of the 6th and the 3rd, but the neighborhood isn't very interesting. From St. Paul area in the 5th you can catch a direct bus to Les Halles, and have St. Antoine about an 8 minute walk. For food location, if you can find an apartment near the Saone Quai between Bellcour and Terreaux on either side of the river it would be ideal.

The College Hotel in the 5th is an interesting hotel, central and easy to transportation. Friends recently stayed there and liked it. I don't think they have kitchens, though.

[CharityCase]

My girlfriend and I are in Lyon and found a very reasonable hotel called Hotel St.Paul, which we booked using ratestogo.com....which we've used successfully in France, Spain and elsewhere.

We have reservations for La Machonnerie (thanks to you folks) for tonight and are lookinbg forward to a better bouchon experience than last night at Le Vieux Lyonnais...which fit the description given earlier of a tourist trap with overly rich but weak flavours, and snobby uncaring service. La Machonnerie was very hqppily full at 8pm last night so hopefully that's a good sign.

[bleudauvergne]

How was your dinner at La Machonnerie? Are you focusing specifically on dining in Bouchons? It is difficult to choose in Vieux Lyon, since the neighborhood is very tourist oriented. If you look at the menu, one indicator for a place serving up the real thing is if they serve Bobosse andouilette, whch is a local high quality artisan andouillete. Seeing that on the menu means they are serious. If the menu features 'crepes' predominantly on their menu, you're definitely in a tourist trap. The place where you had a bad experience is notorious for their sullen and sometimes confrontational service staff. They stay in business because in the Spring and Summer they have some nice outdoor seating that attracts a steady flow of tourists.

[magnolia]

The College Hotel (that Lucy mentions) is indeed great fun, it's a converted school and that's it's 'theme'. The rooms are bright white with gym lockers for your clothes, and text books. The breakfast room has school desks. Comfy, fun and not expensive. Another good one - a bit 'grander' and smack in the middle of it all is the Hotel Globe et Sicile. But these are both regular hotels, so no kitchens. You've got nothing to lose, though, by asking at the College Hotel whether they might let you use their kitchen, they seem like quite funky/flexible types. You might also check whether there are any serviced flat-type hotels, like Citadines, in Lyons. They're not deluxe but they have kitchens.

[TarteTatin]

"I would say a visit to Bocuse is worth it for historical reasons only, and only if you have deep pockets. All four of us were very disappointed with our meal there, both in terms of food and service. If you're looking for food with a light touch, this is not the place!"

We agree with Simon S. Had an extremely dissapointing meal there a few years ago.

Not worth the money at all. The food wasn't great or inspired, plus we felt like we were eating inside of a pink birthday cake.

[John Talbott]

To help others find the threads you’ve read, here are some of them:

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, and 34.

[noambenami]

FWIW, I went to cooking school in Lyon.

My favorite restaurant in town was L'Etage - a tiny, unpretentious, tremendously tasty place near the center of town. My favorite bouchon was Notre Maison, an ancient, fun, tasty place in the old city.

A bit outside of town is a restaurant called Guy Lassausaie - a one michelin restaurant that many of the students spoke very highly of. I think it would be very much worth a shot.