Django, Philadelphia

[Steve Klc]

Did you bring your own wines Holly--and how did that work, trying to anticipate what might go well with the meal? Did you have the menu in advance?

Also, would you care to address your sense, after finally dining there, of the price to value ratio Django offers to a diner?

[Steve Klc]

I wonder if the chef behind a chef-driven BYOB restaurant has ever received a Beard Best Chef nomination in any US region--we'll have to do some digging. Also likely mitigating against Django is that it achieves a relaxed, seemingly incongruous, informality--in dress, in atmosphere--yet puts delicious, decidely creative and interesting food on the plate. There are diners and Beard voters distracted by things which have little to do with the achievement of the chef: like the false notion that a "serious" restaurant somehow requires one to dress up "appropriately" in order to sit in the dining room. Jacket and tie or not, Django makes you feel right at home.

[Holly Moore]

Did you bring your own wines Holly--and how did that work, trying to anticipate what might go well with the meal?  Did you have the menu in advance?

Also, would you care to address your sense, after finally dining there, of the price to value ratio Django  offers to a diner?

Carman selected and brought the wines. Which was good. My knowledge of wine starts with "What's the word, Thunderbird, what's the price, sixty twice," and ends with, "I know what I like when I taste it." It is not that I don't appreciate wine, I do. And I've been lucky enough to be exposed to some very good wines as I've eaten about. But there is some quirk in my genetic make-up that blocks me from any curiousity about wine beyond wondering when the server is going to refill my glass.

That said, we started with a bottle of white and concluded with red. We didn't let that influence our menu selections. But all worked well. Perhaps Carman, who is now a bona fide eGulleteer, will provide the names and her thinking in selecting the particular wines.

As to value, I'd say exceptional. No buyer's remorse. As I recall the meal came to about $60 each, plus tip. I didn't pay attention to prices when ordering, and based on past dining experiences of that caliber, I would have anticipated paying at least 50% more.

[Rich Pawlak]

Damn.

Sure does take away that 4 Bells argument.

[herbacidal]

Sure does take away that 4 Bells argument.

Which one?

[herbacidal]

I wonder if the chef behind a chef-driven BYOB restaurant has ever received a Beard Best Chef nomination in any US region--we'll have to do some digging. Also likely mitigating against Django is that it achieves a relaxed, seemingly incongruous, informality--in dress, in atmosphere--yet puts delicious, decidely creative and interesting food on the plate. There are diners and Beard voters distracted by things which have little to do with the achievement of the chef: like the false notion that a "serious" restaurant somehow requires one to dress up "appropriately" in order to sit in the dining room. Jacket and tie or not, Django makes you feel right at home.

I agree entirely. That's more of what I meant above, before I got sidetracked.

Who are the Beard voters, BTW?

[KatieLoeb]

Steve:

There have been quite an interesting dichotomy of opinions on this topic. I'm delighted that Mr. Laban took the time to respond, perhaps not directly to the issue I had, but indirectly with the BYOB article. As I previously stated, I thought the second article was very informative and fair. His TWO bell review of Matyson last week (HERE) and the emphasis on the noise level (Django is just as loud and the tables are even closer together) makes me question the yardstick for BYOB's vs. "fine dining", but I don't need to start that argument all over again

I wonder if the chef behind a chef-driven BYOB restaurant has ever received a Beard Best Chef nomination in any US region--we'll have to do some digging.  Also likely mitigating against Django is that it achieves a relaxed, seemingly incongruous, informality--in dress, in atmosphere--yet puts delicious, decidely creative and interesting food on the plate.  There are diners and Beard voters distracted by things which have little to do with the achievement of the chef: like the false notion that a "serious" restaurant somehow requires one to dress up "appropriately" in order to sit in the dining room.  Jacket and tie or not, Django makes you feel right at home.

Is there any such thing as a non-chef driven BYOB? I'd think lacking the wherewithall for a stellar wine list, wine service, etc., all there is left to judge is what's on the plate, the dining room and the service. And to my knowledge, no one's ever won any award, whether from their professional peers or from the public, for stellar service, great ambiance and mediocre food. As to whether the public is distracted by the need to dress up, the decor or even by shiny objects like the silverware that have nothing to do with the chef, I think is reflected in that fact. And I'm far less concerned with the public being distracted by those extraneous issues than I am with a professional reviewer seemingly being distracted by them, at least some of the time.

[Steve Klc]

Actually, Katie, restaurants like Cheesecake Factory and other chains and franchises often "win" best restaurant awards when voted on by the readers of local big city magazines or newspapers--much to the chagrin of the food savvy in those cities. It wouldn't be hard for me to argue that precisely what Cheesecake Factory delivers is "stellar service, great ambiance and mediocre food" in consistently huge portions but that would be off-topic. This may not have happened in Philly, but last year in DC the Cheesecake Factory won a reader poll for best fine dining restaurant. I kid you not, we may even have had an eG thread about it and people weighed in saying the same thing happened all over the country.

Also, take "chef-driven" out of what I said and my question remains--has the chef of a BYOB ever received a regional Beard Best Chef nod? I guess my larger point is--how much of a role does wine or service or ambience or crystal creep in when deciding who gets the Beard Best Chef nominations because, when you get right down to it, it is for being a "chef"--right? I'd hope those factors wouldn't play much of a role--and instead focus on his or her performance at the plate: ingredients sourcing and technique, taste, flavor, creativity, execution, plating, etc. According to the Beard website nominated chefs can be from any kind of dining establishment and they're supposed to have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions.

Plus, there are other Beard award categories for most outstanding restaurant, for service, for wine programs and service, for design, etc. which address those issues anyway.

"Who are the Beard voters, BTW?"

Members of the James Beard Foundation vote in certain categories after various awards committees meet to determine the nominees. There are different submission requirements and processes for chef, restaurant, journalism, etc. Tom Sietsema recently disclosed on eGullet that he serves as vice-chair of the restaurant awards committee. Most of the awards are "sponsored."

[KatieLoeb]

Actually, Katie, restaurants like Cheesecake Factory and other chains and franchises often "win" best restaurant awards when voted on by the readers of local big city magazines or newspapers--much to the chagrin of the food savvy in those cities.  It wouldn't be hard for me to argue that precisely what Cheesecake Factory delivers is "stellar service, great ambiance and mediocre food" in consistently huge portions but that would be off-topic. This may not have happened in Philly, but last year in DC the Cheesecake Factory won a reader poll for best fine dining restaurant.  I kid you not, we may even have had an eG thread about it and people weighed in saying the same thing happened all over the country.

Also, take "chef-driven" out of what I said and my question remains--has the chef of a BYOB ever received a regional Beard Best Chef nod?  I guess my larger point is--how much of a role does wine or service or ambience or crystal creep in when deciding who gets the Beard Best Chef nominations because, when you get right down to it, it is for being a "chef"--right?  I'd hope those factors wouldn't play much of a role--and instead focus on his or her performance at the plate: ingredients sourcing and technique, taste, flavor, creativity, execution, plating, etc. According to the Beard website nominated chefs can be from any kind of dining establishment and they're supposed to have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions.

Plus, there are other Beard award categories for most outstanding restaurant, for service, for wine programs and service, for design, etc. which address those issues anyway.

"Who are the Beard voters, BTW?"

Members of the James Beard Foundation vote in certain categories after various awards committees meet to determine the nominees.  There are different submission requirements and processes for chef, restaurant, journalism, etc. Tom Sietsema recently disclosed on eGullet that he serves as vice-chair of the restaurant awards committee. Most of the awards are "sponsored."

OK - when you put it that way, you're definitely right. I guess in the context of a Zagat "award" the same would be true as well. I guess what I meant was can the BYOB be anything but chef-driven, given that a lot of the criteria for the usual equation are removed (rightfully or wrongfully depending on which side of the argument you fall on).

I still stand by my opinion that it's of deep concern if a restaurant reviewer is distracted by the extraneous stuff, particularly if the "distractions" seem to influence their overall opinion. And if the "distractions" are inconsistently rewarded or punished by said reviewer.

I like the James Beard model for awards better, since each category can stand on its own.

I'd be very curious as to whether any BYOB chef has even been nominated for a Beard award. Is there any way for us to find this out?

Since you seem to be passing through Philly with some frequency to check out the BYOB scene you must let us know next time you're coming so we can lay out the eGullet red carpet.

[stephenc]

Off topic, but since you're searching for the ultimate cheesecake,

I love the seasonal Pumpkin Marscarpone cheesecake they make at Figs.

It's awesome.

Edited March 25, 2004 by stephenc (log)

[sara]

Holly,

Thanks for that lovely description and the pictures--I'm drooling, and can hardly wait--I'm Carman's next dining partner at Django, following my dissertation defense!

[herbacidal]

Members of the James Beard Foundation vote in certain categories after various awards committees meet to determine the nominees. There are different submission requirements and processes for chef, restaurant, journalism, etc. Tom Sietsema recently disclosed on eGullet that he serves as vice-chair of the restaurant awards committee. Most of the awards are "sponsored."

I'm sorry, I suppose I wasn't clear enough.

Who exactly are the James Beard members?

Food journalists and writers from across the country, I'm assuming.

Anyone else?

[Steve Klc]

Oh, sorry, anyone can become a member, it's a not-for-profit Foundation:

http://jamesbeard.org/membership/index.shtml

Here's the breakdown on awards judging and who votes:

http://jamesbeard.org/awards/policies.shtml

[mantee]

I'm not to far away from Holly about wines, I ask, I try, I enjoy. The wines I brought to D'Jango are from a vineyard that was bought out by Gallo. I was told that these wines were going for over $30 and with Gallo on the label now, they were not selling. They are Gallo-Sonoma 2001Reserve Chardonnay and Gallo-Sonoma 2000 Reserve Caberet Sauvignon.

Thanks for the pictures Holly, company was top shelf also.

[herbacidal]

I was told that these wines were going for over $30 and with Gallo on the label now, they were not selling. They are Gallo-Sonoma 2001Reserve Chardonnay and Gallo-Sonoma 2000 Reserve Caberet Sauvignon.

Yea, I've always thought Gallo Sonoma got a bum rap just because of the Gallo.

[sara]

Unfortunately, Carman was ill on April 7 when we were supposed to have dinner at Django, so my friend Sarah accompanied me. We opened a bottle of EIEIO Cuvee O--an Oregon Pinot Noir, which I'd saved for celebrating my dissertation defense. A lovely, big complex wine.

Here's what we had for dinner.

Me:

1. Emerald Cove Oysters in the Shell, Pernod Gelee, Green Herb Sauce, Peppery Creme, and Oyster Toast ($9)

I love oysters, and these were from PEI, but the dish didn't work. The gelee was too potent, and combined with the herbs and creme it completely overpowered the delicate oyster taste.

2. Spiced Venison Carpaccio, Truffle Dressed Radicchio, Smooth White Bean Puree, Parmesan Socca Cracker ($10).

The venison was thinly sliced and simply lovely, and the puree was a nice accompaniment. Didn't think much of the cracker.

3. Wild Mushroom and Noodle Carbonara, Crispy Pancetta, Sunny Side Quail Egg, and Natural Chicken Sauce ($12).

I ordered this thinking of the fantastic carbonara I had at Prune in NYC months back, which was a mistake. The comparison alone may have killed this dish for me. It just didn't gel--the quail egg is small, as expected, and the egginess didn't make it into the dish sufficiently.

4. Artisan Cheese Tasting Quartet, Acacia Honey, Spiced Hazelnuts, and Toasted Croutons: Coach Farm Triple Creme, Pecorino Toscano Sheep with Truffle, Fromage de Meaux, Great Hill Massachusetts Blue ($9).

I always get the cheese plate, and hoped that Aimee would serve it as usual--but alas this time she was at work in the kitchen. The server described these cheeses as 'less special than usual' when serving them, and she was right...the blue was good, the others missable. Luckily, I'd brought a bottle of port (from CA, name escapes me at the moment) and enjoyed that immensely.

Ah well, so I didn't fare so well. My companion, however, loved her meal:

1. New Potato and Spring Herb Soup, Flaked Smoked Trout, and Crunchy Celery Salad ($8).

2. Seared Sliced Duck, Creamy White Corn Polenta, Crisp Confit and Shallots, Mushrooms, Rich Duck Jus ($23)

I grabbed a taste of this--lovely. Maybe I should've gotten an entree; but apps at Dmitris earlier killed that for me.

3. Chocolate Almond Terrine, Crunchy Almond Praline, and Almond Ice Cream ($7).

All in all, I've eaten at Django 5 times. This was the least memorable meal of those 5. However, it was still many times better than meals I've had this year at other highly thought of places like Melograno's and Pasion. I'll go back for more.

[Mottmott]

My first trip to Django, and I'm impressed. It was a family dinner, and we tasted each other's choices. The meal overall was excellent. It was a real treat to have so many wonderful flavors pulled together on a single plate.

I started with the smoked sea scallops with a tamarind glaze that made even the lentil salad taste good. I tasted the others' apps and was most impressed with the crab galette and saffron remoulade which was very delicate and subtle. I was less impressed by the mozzarella, artichoke, tomato jam app, but confess to not being a mozzarella enthusiast. My son (who is) really liked it, though.

The others chose fish, and I can'd decide which was best: the bbq'd halibut and corn pudding or the pan roasted bass, beets, chanterelles, & walnut pistou. Both were wonderful. I made the sole misstep of the evening by choosing the wild mushroom cannelloni, morels notwithstanding. The summer squash and tomato sauce was blandish enough to not overwhelm the mushrooms, but the saltiness of the camembert in the filling was a mistake. And unfortunately the homemade pasta seemed tough rather than toothsome. It was not bad enough to spoil my meal but surprisingly below the standard of everything else. I'm inspired, though, to experiment at home to try to do it better because it's something I should have liked more.

At dessert I resisted both their chocolate almond terrine and the cheese plate, deferring those for a later visit, so that I could have the blackberry tart with the honey-fennel pastry cream and blackberry sauce. It was a lovely fresh summer dessert, only faintly sweet. This kind of restraint in the use of individual flavors to achieve an overall effect seems to characterize their food. I quite liked my taste of the phyllo and vanilla creme brulee with a piece of apricot and a smear of sauterne sauce, and others were even more enthusiastic. The cheese plate was wonderful. I had a taste of many of them. And if anyone knows who carries that sheep's milk blue cheese for home use, I'd be grateful to know.

I liked the simplicity of the room, the careful but unobtrusive service, and above all the food. We were all very pleased with our meal. My only complaint is that I haven't been there sooner.

I'd like to add that I thought it was a wonderful value for the money. I've had less impressive meals for more. Those who like large servings may not be as enthusiastic as I am, but I liked having a complete meal without feeling stuffed or leaving food on the plate. And as it's a BYOB, one can bring different wines for each course without breaking the bank on a restaurant's markup.

[davidbdesilva]

Having had my first meal at Django recently as well, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I was also very impressed and enjoyed the space as well (though some think it crowded and noisy I found it very enjoyable). I personally think that Django is the "best-food-for-value" restaurant in Philadelphia, hands down. The fact that it's BYOB only adds to the value of the meal. I wish it weren't so hard to get into and I look forward to returning as soon as I'm able.

[Mottmott]

David, I called my reservation for a Saturday night in only a week ahead, got wait-listed and was called the day before. I have the impression that for a party of 1-2 people on a weeknight you probably don't need a month long reservation.

Re: value. I had the weeknight prix fixe dinner at Rx last night and enjoyed it (except that the ribs were TOOO salty). A la carte, it was only modestly less expensive than Django, and the food didn't have the complexity or imaginativeness of Django. On the other hand, I'm always happy to find a good restaurant where I feel comfortable dining with a book when I decide at the last minute I'm too lazy to cook.

[davidbdesilva]

Thanks for the tip about Rx. With the new chef (see post) it sounds like things are cooking along quite well. I have yet to find a restaurant at that price that matches the food at Django in terms of creativity and multiple layers of flavor. Matyson is very good and in the same style as Django, but a notch below it in my opinion. As far as getting into Django you are again correct. We had reservations at a different restaurant for my birthday and just for the heck of it I called Django the day of and they had a 5:00 reservation so I took it! One should always call just to see if they have had cancellations or openings.

[Papaya]

Incidently, I had called Django this afternoon to ask about making reservations there, and the person who answered the phone suggested calling 2-3 weeks ahead for a weeknight resrevation and 3-4 weeks ahead for a weekend.

[Derek Lee]

I think the likelihood of getting a reservation on shorter notice at Django is entirely dependent on whether you can be flexible as to when you eat.

We ate at Django for the first time a couple of weeks ago, and we were so impressed that we decided to make a reservation for our anniversary dinner less than two weeks later. The first reservation was for a Friday evening at 10pm, which worked for us since we were picking someone up from the airport on a late flight. The second reservation was for a Thursday evening, at 6pm. Both of these reservations were made within three days of the date.

Generally, if you are willing to eat late or early, you should be fine. You will be even better off if you can go on something other than Fri/Sat/Sun. It is also very helpful to have auto-redial service on your phone, so you don't have to tend to it for an hour or more.

Derek

Threateningletters.com - When a Kind Word Just Isn't Enough

[cinghiale]

I had a very delicious dinner at Django Wednesday night. The October menu features some terrific additions to their later summer menus.

• Amuse: Polenta/Parmesan Puff

• Butternut Squash-Scented Lobster Soup w/Polenta-Lobster Royale

A downright hit. The lobster stock was super-condensed, resulting in a (for me) hitcha-in-the -back-of-the-throat intensity. The base was nevertheless very light, not at all overtly creamy, yet still rich. The royale – two dumplings – were less satisfying. Though flavorful (fennel was in there, I think), the texture left something to be desired. For my money, quenelles would have worked better.

• Goat Cheese Gnocchi w/Carmelized Mission Figs and Applewood-Smoked Bacon

The gnocchi have been a mainstay, but I don’t recall having seen this rendition before. This was good enough to wallow in. The fig-bacon playoff was superb. I can’t recall (better, decipher my notes) the type of figs, but they were tiny with an intense flavor. The saucing was butter and herbs, simple yet rich and perfectly balanced.

• Pheasant Breast and Pulled Pheasant Leg aus jus w/Spätzle and Wild Mendocino Mushrooms

Boy, was this good. The birds come from Griggstown Farms up near Princeton. I visited the farm last spring after spotting an item in the Jersey section of the NYT. Their product is great. I had success with the quail, but I couldn’t keep the pheasant from drying out. Bryan’s version is an absolute winner. The breast is moist, tender, and wonderfully flavorful. His spätzle are the real deal (cf. the wannabe pass-offs at Ludwig’s Garten). The mushrooms were meaty and played perfectly with the pheasant. 5* entree, this.

• 3-Way Apple Dessert

I didn’t take any notes, as this was pretty forgettable. The sorbet was nice, but the other two elements were bland and mushy.

There’s also a boar loin entree that’s new to the menu, which I intend to order on my next visit. Also, I remember a Scottish salmon dish that sounded pretty intriguing. And, a lobster risotto, which I think is new.

[wkl]

I had a similiar meal about two weeks ago.That pheasant entree is amazing.As is everything else on the fall menu.I started with the tea smoked scallops.Heavenly!

I am lucky enough to be going again next sunday.Has anyone had any of the other entrees on the new menu?

[percyn]

Last night was my first visit (hopefully the fist of many) to Django. Since this was not a dinner with the famous Carmen, I hope the post is not off-topic .

(My wife had a girls night out, so I had to think of something fun to do )

My menu selection was as follows:

Amuse: Cauliflower and Parmesan bread pudding.

Butternut Squash-Scented Lobster Soup w/Polenta-Lobster Royale : This was a unique, delicious "soup" in that you could dissolve the polenta to achieve the thickness you desired (though I would have preferred a bit more polenta).

Roasted Bison loin with caramelized onion gratin, brussel sprouts, cranberry chutney and potato cream.: The bison was cooked almost perfectly, to medium-rare. The brussel sprouts were firm and almost crunchy (much better than the way I usually obliterate them). I must admit that the onion gratin on my plate seemed to be replaced by what seemed like a bread pudding with a wedge of potato in the middle (I am not complaining, was just curious as to what happened to the onion gratin).

Artisan Cheese Plate : Decent, but not the most memorable cheese plate I have had.

Wine (with all courses): Bottle of Charles Krug 2000 Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir.

The bread deserves a notable mention, as I have seen very few places serve bread of this caliber which has been baked on premises. It reminds me of bread that my family used to bake on a farm, when I was a child. Many items on the menu looked so delicious that I hadn't started dinner at 10pm, I would have come back for dinner twice in one night

I did take some pictures, but alas, was too embarrassed to turn on the flash (didn't seem necessary at the time), which did not do the food any justice, so I decided not to post them here