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Lamb recipe


FaustianBargain

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Is this a Swedish recipe? I think I read that the coffee is used in the sauce to conceal the smell and taste of lamb fat.

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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I remember a recipe for butterflied roast lamb that was wonderful. Although I do not have the specifics it used a butterflied leg of lamb that was marinated overnight in black coffee with a non-committal sort of oil like canola (nothing with too much taste of its own), molasses, a touch of cider vinegar and some herbs and spices that may have been chopped scallions, cumin, cinnamon, bayleaf and black pepper.

The meat was to be grilled, preferably, to create some nice charred parts with a medium-rare center. We used to do it, lacking a good grill, by draining the marinade, browning the surfaces over a high heat on the stove then finishing in the oven.

Yummy.

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Typically, a marinade comprises an acid (for tenderizing, yes, though I think the effect is usually overrated), a fat for lubrication, and flavoring agents. Coffee, with a nominal pH of 6.9, doesn't really qualify as acidic, so for a traditonal application, you'd need to add that in the form of vinegar, wine, fruit juice, etc. Good luck finding something that will work that won't mask the flavor of the coffee. I think you're better off trying to get coffee into the flavor profile in some way other than a marinade: as part of a sauce, or ground beans as a component in a rub, or as part of a brine (though I don't know if that would really work).

Why would you want to conceal the smell and taste of lamb fat?

Dave Scantland
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dscantland@eGstaff.org
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Eat more chicken skin.

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Paula's right that coffee-roasted leg of lamb is a Swedish specialty. If the coffee was originally used to hide the taste of the meat, that's no longer the case. Also, in the versions I've seen coffee is used for basting, not marinating. Here's how I remember it being made: The leg was rubbed with mustard, roasted for a while, then basted with a cup of coffee (with cream and sugar) spiked with a small amount of sweet wine (Sherry? Port?). The Gravy was made from the drippings, probably with the addition of some flour, beef or lamb stock and cream. Craig Clairborne has a simpler version in The New York Times Cookbook: rub a 5 lb. leg with salt and pepper and roast in a 425ºF oven with sliced carrots and onions for 30 minutes; lower the temperature to 350ºF and pour a mixture of 1½ cups coffee, 1 cup cream, 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 cup beef broth into the roasting pan; roast 40-60 minutes more, basting frequently; transfer the leg to a warm platter; degrease the contents of the pan, push through a strainer and serve as a sauce.

Here's a non-Swedish version that uses coffee in the marinade: Kona Coffee Roasted Rack of Lamb. And a mole-like Coffee-Cocoa-Spiced Rack of Lamb.

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on another note...what would be the Ph of decaff? (isnt decaf coffee = culinary oxymoron?)

Caffeine doesn't really affect acidity. Here's what does: bean type and soil composition; degree and method of roasting; whether the beans are wet-processed or dry processed; and finally, the water and method used to brew it.

My 6.9 pH, above, is misleading, by the way. PH of 4.9 to 5.2 is the target range for good brewed coffee. This still isn't very acidic -- it's approximately the same as bananas.

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.

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